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Lidewij Edelkoort
Lidewij Edelkoort
Lidewij Edelkoort
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Lidewij Edelkoort, Paris 1996.

Lidewij de Gerarda Hillegonda Edelkoort, often called Li, (born 29 August 1950) is a Dutch trend forecaster, someone who anticipates future fashion and design trends.[1] She has been the Founder and Chief Executive Officer of Trend Union since 1986.[2]

Early life

[edit]

Edelkoort was born on 29 August 1950 in Wageningen, The Netherlands. Her parents are Jan Edelkoort and Hillegonda van der Spek. She attended the Academy of Fine Arts, Arnhem, receiving a bachelors degree in Fashion in 1972.[2]

Career

[edit]

Edelkoort began her career as a fashion coordinator at the Amsterdam department store De Bijenkorf.[3] After finishing her degree at ArtEZ, in 1975 she relocated to France, where she set up as an independent trend consultancy. She soon created the consultancy 'Trend Union', a trend forecasting service based in Paris.[4][5] Trend Union provides bi-annual trend forecasting books for the fashion and design community with colour and lifestyle information.[6] She then founded Studio Edelkoort, a consultancy bureau, and opened two offices in New York City (Edelkoort Inc) and Tokyo (Edelkoort East). In September 2015 she was hired to oversee a new textile design program at Parsons School of Design, where she currently serves as Dean of Hybrid Studies.[7]

She has helped to shape products for international brands, advising on product identity and development strategy, and her clients have included Coca-Cola, Nissan, Camper, Siemens, Moooi, and Douwe Egberts.[3] In the beauty industry, Studio Edelkoort's has developed concepts and beauty products for Estée Lauder, Lancôme, L'Oréal, Shiseido, Dim, and Gucci.[3]

She is the art director and co-publisher of the magazine View on Colour.[8] This looks at trends in colour taste with a view to their influence on fashion, graphics, industrial design, packaging, cosmetics and many other areas. She is also publisher of Interior View magazine.[6] She launched the photo-magazine Bloom in 1998, which she describes as "horti-cultural", because it charts the changing trends in flowers and the way their images are used.[9] She is involved in the non-profit humanitarian organization Heartwear which helps third world producers market their goods in the west through a mail order catalogue. The profits return to the producers' communities.[10]

In 1999 she was elected Chairwoman of the Design Academy, Eindhoven, Netherlands, where she served until 2008.[10] In 2011, Edelkoort launched the website and social media platform called TrendTablet. She described the COVID-19 pandemic as an opportunity in that the global disruption of travel and of the supply chain from China might trigger new forms of local sourcing and production.[11]

Awards and honors

[edit]

The British design magazine i-D listed her among the world's 40 most important designers and Time magazine named her one of the 25 most influential fashion experts of our day.[12] On 22 February 2008, on behalf of the French Minister of Culture Didier Grumbach, President of the French Fédération de la Couture, Edelkoort was invested with the Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres in recognition of her artistic and literary creative contribution to France and international culture.[4] Edelkoort also received an Honorary Degree of Doctor of Art from the United Kingdom's Nottingham Trent University, at the university's awards ceremony on 15 July 2008.[13] On 26 November 2012, she received an award for her oeuvre of work from the Dutch foundation Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds.

She lives in Paris.[1]

Publications (selected)

[edit]
  • The pop-up generation. Design between dimension. by Lidewij Edelkoort, Amsterdam, BIS Publishers, 2012. ISBN 978-90-6369-282-7
  • Fetishism in fashion, compiled by Lidewij Edelkoort & edited by Philip Fimmano. Amsterdam, Frame Publishers, 2013. ISBN 978-94-9172713-9
  • A Labour of Love by Lidewij Edelkoort & Philip Fimmano. Eindhoven, Lecturis, 2020. ISBN 9789462263918
  • Proud South curated by Lidewij Edelkoort with Lili Tedde & Mariola Lopez Mariño. Eindhoven, Lecturis, 2022. ISBN 9789462264441
  • See All This Art Magazine#34 The Wardrobe as Art Collection, 2024[14]

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Lidewij Edelkoort

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
''Lidewij Edelkoort'' is a Dutch trend forecaster known for her pioneering predictions in fashion, color, and design trends, as well as her influential advocacy for sustainability, animism, and systemic reform within the fashion industry. Born in 1950 in the Netherlands, Edelkoort studied fashion at the ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem before relocating to Paris in 1975, where she founded Trend Union, a Paris-based consultancy renowned for producing bi-annual trend forecasting books and providing strategic guidance to global brands. She has since established additional ventures including Studio Edelkoort, Edelkoort Inc. in New York, and Edelkoort East in Tokyo, while also creating online platforms such as Trend Tablet. Edelkoort has held significant academic leadership roles, serving as Chairman and Director of the Design Academy Eindhoven from 1998 to 2008, where she shifted the curriculum toward human-centered and sustainable design, and as Dean of Hybrid Design Studies at Parsons School of Design in New York from 2015 to 2020, during which she founded a Textile Masters program and launched New York Textile Month. In 2020 she founded the World Hope Forum to inspire creative solutions for societal rebuilding, and she has collaborated on initiatives such as a new textile masters program with Polimoda in Florence. She is also recognized for her provocative "Anti-Fashion" manifesto presented in 2015, which critiqued the industry's outdated structures and overconsumption, as well as her work in exhibition curation, publishing, and consulting for clients including Gucci, L'Oréal, and Estée Lauder. Edelkoort has been honored as one of Time magazine's "25 Most Influential People in Fashion" in 2003, one of Icon magazine's "40 Most Influential People in Design" in 2004, Knight in the Order of Orange-Nassau by the Dutch Royal Family in 2008, and Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture in 2014. Her ongoing efforts focus on textiles as a key material of the future, animism in design, and promoting reduced consumption to foster more meaningful creative and societal practices.

Early life and education

Birth and family

Lidewij de Gerarda Hillegonda Edelkoort, commonly known as Li Edelkoort, was born on 29 August 1950 in Wageningen, the Netherlands. She is Dutch by nationality and was raised in the Netherlands.

Education and training

Lidewij Edelkoort studied fashion design at the Academie voor Beeldende Kunst Arnhem (now ArtEZ University of the Arts), where she also pursued fashion design and illustration. During her time at the academy, she graduated in 1972. The art and design academy environment revealed her strengths in anticipating future directions rather than in traditional drawing or design skills. Edelkoort has reflected that she "was not such a good drawer or designer but I just knew what was going to happen," a talent recognized by her faculty, who began guiding her education toward this aptitude. A guest lecture during her studies on styling offices in Paris further highlighted forecasting as a potential path, sparking her interest in the emerging profession.

Career beginnings

Early roles in fashion retail

Lidewij Edelkoort began her professional career in fashion retail shortly after graduating from the Academie voor Beeldende Kunst Arnhem in 1972, taking a position as a stylist at the De Bijenkorf department store in Amsterdam. She held this role for three years, during which she described the department store environment as her "real school" and a vital "knowledge bank" that provided essential, lifelong insights into the fashion industry. In interviews, Edelkoort has also referred to herself as a buyer for the womenswear department at De Bijenkorf, highlighting her early ability to anticipate customer preferences and predict what they would buy. Her responsibilities in this early position encompassed trend monitoring to identify emerging styles and coordinating fashion selections for retail presentation, giving her foundational experience in translating cultural signals into commercial offerings within a major Dutch department store. After several years in this role, she chose to pursue further opportunities abroad.

Move to Paris and independent consulting

In 1975, Lidewij Edelkoort relocated to Paris after completing her fashion education in the Netherlands. There, she initially worked as an independent trend researcher, focusing on anticipating consumer preferences and emerging directions in fashion and design. Edelkoort established herself as an independent trend consultant within the Paris fashion scene, where she built a reputation through her perceptive analysis of trends and her ability to guide industry professionals. This period of independent work in Paris laid the foundation for her later initiatives in trend forecasting.

Trend forecasting and Trend Union

Founding and development of Trend Union

In 1986, Lidewij Edelkoort founded Trend Union in Paris as a trend forecasting consultancy and collective. She established the company to create trend books and conduct international trend presentations, drawing together designers and stylists to analyze and predict evolutions in aesthetics and consumer behavior. Edelkoort has remained the founder and chief executive officer of Trend Union since its inception, overseeing its ongoing operations and development into a key resource for the fashion and design sectors. The agency produces specialized trend books and forecasts that provide detailed insights into color, materials, forms, concepts, and emerging lifestyles, issued regularly to guide creative and strategic decision-making across industries. Trend Union serves a broad clientele spanning fashion, luxury goods, consumer products, and automotive sectors, with notable clients including Coca-Cola, Nissan, Gucci, and L'Oréal. These partnerships reflect the agency's influence in applying trend intelligence to brand strategy, product development, and market positioning beyond traditional fashion boundaries. Lidewij Edelkoort expanded her professional network by founding Studio Edelkoort in Paris in 1991 as a creative, artistic, and operational think-tank with an international scope. The consultancy emphasizes a holistic, audacious, exclusive, and prospective approach, offering services including product identity development strategies, concept brainstorming, trend studies, colour and fabric research, visual communication innovations, and graphics or packaging solutions across diverse sectors such as textiles, beauty, automotive, high-tech, and consumer goods. To broaden her global presence, Edelkoort established offices in New York City under Edelkoort Inc and in Tokyo as Edelkoort East. Edelkoort East was created in February 2008 through a collaboration between Edelkoort and Kaori Ieyasu, formerly operating as Trend Union Japan, and focuses on delivering client presentations, colour seminars, university lectures, and contributions to Japanese media such as monthly columns in SO-EN magazine. Edelkoort continues to engage with major brands in her advisory capacity, serving on the Creative Council for all of Gap Inc.'s fashion brands, where she provides guidance on creative innovation and sustainable practices.

Design education and leadership

Chairwoman of Design Academy Eindhoven

Lidewij Edelkoort served as Chairwoman of the Design Academy Eindhoven from 1999 to 2008. During her leadership, she played a pivotal role in elevating the institution's profile, building it into a strong, recognizable brand within Dutch design and enhancing its international standing. Her appointment as director marked a deliberate shift toward global ambitions for the academy, which began attracting wider international attention under her guidance. Edelkoort actively mentored emerging designers, nurturing innovative talents and contributing to the shaping of an experimental curriculum that emphasized conceptual and forward-thinking approaches to design education.

Dean at Parsons School of Design

Lidewij Edelkoort served as Dean of Hybrid Design Studies at Parsons School of Design from September 2015 to 2020. In this role, she developed hybrid design curricula integrating creative and scientific disciplines while strengthening textile education and exploring innovative approaches to teaching across Parsons New York and Parsons Paris. During her deanship, Edelkoort envisioned the MFA Textiles program in 2015, which launched under Program Director Preeti Gopinath in 2018. The program emphasizes the intersection of craft, technology, and sustainability, preparing graduates to create original textiles that bridge high-tech innovation and slow craft traditions. It was established in tandem with her broader efforts to advance textile studies at Parsons. Edelkoort also founded New York Textile Month, a citywide festival that held its inaugural edition in September 2016. The initiative celebrates textile culture through workshops, lectures, exhibitions, and collaborations across institutions including Parsons, museums, and industry partners, aiming to highlight advancements in materials, local production, and the relevance of textiles in contemporary design.

Publishing, curation, and platforms

Magazines and publications

Lidewij Edelkoort has made significant contributions to design and fashion publishing through her work on magazines and books that blend visual storytelling with trend insights. She has art-directed, launched, and published several influential magazines, including View on Colour, Interior View, and Bloom. View on Colour, which she co-published and art-directed, focuses on color trends and their broader cultural impact on fashion, design, and creativity. She also served as publisher of Interior View magazine, dedicated to interior design perspectives. In 1998, Edelkoort launched Bloom, a photo-magazine described as "horti-cultural" that explores the intersection of plants, gardening, fashion, and contemporary artistic expression, collaborating with photographers, stylists, and designers to highlight emerging talents in these fields. In 2011, she introduced TrendTablet, a free-access website and social media platform that she designed and curated to illustrate trend evolution, showcase real-world examples, highlight her projects, and feature promising designers. Edelkoort has authored and curated several notable books that extend her publishing influence. These include The Pop-Up Generation (2012), which examines innovative design oscillating between physical and digital dimensions; Fetishism in Fashion (2013), delving into the psychological and aesthetic role of fetish elements in contemporary clothing and accessories; A Labour of Love (2020), profiling over 70 studios advancing responsible, circular, and ethical design practices across materials and processes; and Proud South (2022), a visual celebration of creative energies emerging from the Global South. These publications complement her trend forecasting by offering in-depth visual and conceptual explorations of cultural shifts.

Curatorial projects and recent works

In 2022, Lidewij Edelkoort curated the publication PROUD SOUTH, a comprehensive visual exploration celebrating contemporary creative talents from the southern hemisphere, including Latin America, Africa, South Asia, and Southeast Asia. This project brings together emerging and established figures in fashion, photography, styling, and art to document a major shift in the global creative axis toward the South, presenting an emancipated international movement independent of northern fashion systems. Working with co-curator Lili Tedde and designer Mariola Lopez Mariño, Edelkoort investigated connecting themes such as decolonization, ecology, local craftsmanship, ancestral practices, and spiritual harmony, featuring profiles of talents like Mous Lamrabat, Omar Victor Diop, Pero, and Maxhosa alongside essays and photographic contributions. That same year, Edelkoort collaborated with Polimoda fashion school in Florence to launch the two-year Master's program in Textiles from Farm to Fabric to Fashion, which began in autumn 2022. She initiated and shaped the curriculum as a radical response to the fashion industry's overproduction and environmental impact, emphasizing the full journey from regenerative farming, responsible fiber production, and yarn design through to weaving, knitting, hybrid craft-technology techniques, and expressive fabric innovation. The program aims to train leaders in a slower, more inclusive, and low-impact system that reconnects fashion with its origins in nature and promotes longevity, restraint, and empathic design. Edelkoort continues to produce thought-provoking writings and contribute to podcasts and online discussions, offering ongoing insights into evolving trends, cultural dynamics, and design's social role. Her recent projects frequently intersect with humanitarian activism, particularly through platforms that promote hope and positive change in the creative industries.

Media appearances

Television interviews

Lidewij Edelkoort has appeared as a guest on several Dutch television programs, where she shared her expertise as a trend forecaster, trendwatcher, and commentator on developments in fashion, design, and culture. Her television interviews include an appearance on Barend en Van Dorp in 2003, credited as trendwatcher, a guest spot on De wereld draait door in 2008, and a feature on Zomergasten in 2012, where she was the main guest in the episode aired on August 12, 2012. She also participated in Dutch profiles between 2009 and 2014, appeared on VPRO Backlight in 2020 as trend forecaster, and was interviewed on Buitenhof in 2022 as trendvoorspeller. These appearances have positioned her as a recurring voice on Dutch television for discussions on future-oriented trends.

Documentary and film contributions

Lidewij Edelkoort has appeared as herself in documentary films, providing expert commentary on fashion and design as a prominent trend forecaster. She is featured among the interviewees in Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019), a documentary directed by Reiner Holzemer that profiles the influential and reclusive fashion designer Martin Margiela. The film explores Margiela's career—from his early work as Jean Paul Gaultier's assistant to founding Maison Martin Margiela and his tenure at Hermès—through his own voiceover narration, personal drawings, notes, and archival footage, without ever showing his face. Edelkoort joins other notable fashion figures, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Carine Roitfeld, Cathy Horyn, and Olivier Saillard, in offering insights into Margiela's radical approach and lasting impact on the industry. Her participation underscores her standing as a respected commentator within fashion documentaries.

Recognition and activism

Awards and honors

Lidewij Edelkoort has received several prestigious awards and honors in recognition of her contributions to design and trend forecasting. In 2003, Time magazine included her among the 25 most influential figures in fashion. In 2004, she was named one of the 40 most influential people in design by Icon magazine. In 2008, she was appointed Knight in the Order of Orange-Nassau by the Dutch Royal Family. In 2014, she was awarded Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture. She received an Honorary Doctor of Art degree from Nottingham Trent University on 15 July 2008. On 26 November 2012, the Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds awarded her the Oeuvre award for her body of work in the Netherlands.

Humanitarian efforts and World Hope Forum

Lidewij Edelkoort has pursued humanitarian efforts through her co-founding of Heartwear in 1993 alongside a group of fashion designer friends. This non-profit organization collaborates with artisans in developing communities to help them produce their products on a larger scale without compromising traditional know-how, skills, culture, or the environment. Heartwear has supported projects including indigo-colored textiles with artisans in Benin, ceramics in Morocco, and khadi cotton in India, with all profits reinvested locally to build self-sustainable industries and encourage fair trade practices. Edelkoort is recognized as a humanitarian and activist championing sustainability, social justice, and systemic change in fashion and design. In 2020, amid the COVID-19 pandemic, she co-founded the World Hope Forum with Philip Fimmano to create a global platform that federates innovators developing people-centered, virtuous industrial and economic processes. Initially proposed in a manifesto as a counterpoint to the World Economic Forum, the initiative focuses on climate change, caring for neglected workers in production chains, and fostering an "economy of hope" that prioritizes collaboration, morals, and equal opportunities over shareholder profits. The forum hosts themed editions across countries and regions, emphasizing cultural sustainability, interdependence, regional pride, and anti-fashion approaches to inspire the creative community in rebuilding a more ethical society. Edelkoort also advises Gap Inc. on creative innovation and sustainable practices.

Influence on fashion and design

Lidewij Edelkoort is widely regarded as one of the most influential trend forecasters in fashion and design, renowned for her prescient ability to anticipate sociocultural shifts and translate them into aesthetic directions years ahead of mainstream adoption. Through her Paris-based consultancy Trend Union, founded in 1975, she produces bi-annual trend books that forecast colors, fabrics, shapes, styles, and broader cultural currents, serving as essential references for designers, brands, and strategists worldwide. Her work extends beyond fashion to encompass design, lifestyle, and consumer products, consistently projecting major shifts in form, materials, and societal attitudes. Edelkoort's forecasts have directly influenced global brands and designers through her advisory role via Studio Edelkoort, where she has helped shape products and strategies for companies including Nissan, Estée Lauder, Coca-Cola, Gucci, L'Oréal, Google, and Siemens. Notable examples include her early 1990s proposal for a soft, "teddy bear" aesthetic in the redesign of the Nissan Micra, which contributed to its acclaim as European Car of the Year. She has played a pivotal role in shaping design education through key leadership positions, including Chairwoman of Design Academy Eindhoven from 1998 to 2008, co-founder of the School of Form in Poland in 2011, and Dean of Hybrid Studies at Parsons School of Design from 2015 to 2020, where she developed cross-disciplinary programs and launched initiatives such as a graduate textile studies program. Edelkoort is recognized as an intuitive thinker who tunes into collective mentalities and dares to articulate emerging changes early, often positioning herself as an agent for industry transformation through bold critiques and calls for sustainability, ethical practices, and systemic recalibration.

References

  1. https://www.businessoffashion.com/people/li-edelkoort/
  2. https://timesensitive.fm/episode/trend-forecaster-li-edelkoort-doing-less-is-more/
  3. https://www.edelkoort.com/lidewij-edelkoort/
  4. https://www.ukwhoswho.com/view/10.1093/ww/9780199540884.001.0001/ww-9780199540884-e-282264
  5. https://www.imdb.com/name/nm4813322/
  6. https://www.designboom.com/interviews/designboom-interview-li-edelkoort/
  7. https://www.dezeen.com/2020/06/03/lidewij-edelkoort-trend-forecaster-interview/
  8. https://www.core77.com/posts/57026/Li-Edelkoort-on-Forecasting-the-Future
  9. https://medium.com/house-of-h%C3%A9ro%C3%AFne/talking-points-in-conversation-with-idewij-edelkoort-1b6b0b6763a9
  10. https://casacor.abril.com.br/en-US/noticias/noticias/sensibilidade-para-captar-o-novo
  11. https://seeallthis.com/en/interview/back-to-the-future-lidewij-edelkoort/
  12. https://www.kmauk.com/trend-books/trend-union/
  13. https://www.linkedin.com/company/trend-union-li-edelkoort/
  14. https://interiordesign.net/designwire/lidewij-edelkoort-2017-hall-of-fame-inductee/
  15. https://www.whatdesigncando.com/speakers/lidewij-edelkoort/
  16. https://www.dw.com/en/trend-forecaster-lidewij-edelkoort-fashion-gets-political-when-clothes-become-uniforms/a-36430428
  17. https://londonspeakerbureau.com/speaker-profile/lidewij-edelkoort/
  18. https://www.edelkoort.com/consulting/
  19. https://www.edelkoort.com/edelkoort-east/
  20. https://www.dezeen.com/2008/06/30/lidewij-edelkoort-to-resign-from-design-academy-eindhoven/
  21. https://www.designacademy.nl/page/7597/our-history
  22. https://www.newschool.edu/pressroom/pressreleases/2015/LidewijEdelkoort.htm
  23. https://ww2.newschool.edu/pressroom/pressreleases/2020/mfatextiles2020.htm
  24. https://www.newschool.edu/parsons/mfa-textiles/
  25. https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/parsons-li-edelkoort-new-york-textile-month-10435876/
  26. https://www.edelkoort.com/editions/
  27. https://www.amazon.com/Pop-Up-Generation-Design-Between-Dimensions/dp/906369282X
  28. https://www.waterstones.com/book/fetishism-in-fashion/lidewij-edelkoort/philip-fimmano/9789491727139
  29. https://www.edelkoort.com/shopping/sample-product/a-labour-of-love/
  30. https://www.edelkoort.com/shopping/sample-product/proud-south/
  31. https://www.polimoda.com/from-farm-to-fabric-to-fashion/
  32. https://www.businessoffashion.com/opinions/sustainability/op-ed-li-edelkoorts-antidote-to-fashions-speed-and-greed/
  33. https://www.edelkoort.com/
  34. https://www.worldhopeforum.com/world-hope-forum-proud-south
  35. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt37763985/
  36. https://www.vpro.nl/zomergasten/artikelen/lidewij-edelkoort.html
  37. https://variety.com/2020/film/reviews/martin-margiela-in-his-own-words-review-1234735061/
  38. https://releasing.dogwoof.com/margiela
  39. https://filmforum.org/film/martin-margiela-in-this-own-words
  40. https://www.edelkoort.com/heartwear/
  41. https://www.worldhopeforum.com/
  42. https://www.edelkoort.us/our-story
  43. https://www.dezeen.com/2020/04/15/li-edelkoort-world-hope-forum-manifesto-coronavirus-vdf/
  44. https://interiordesign.net/designwire/lidewij-edelkoort-is-one-of-the-most-influential-trend-forecasters/
  45. https://www.stirworld.com/inspire-people-luminaries-of-our-times-lidewij-edelkoort
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