Caresse Crosby
Caresse Crosby
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Overview

Caresse Crosby, born Mary Phelps Jacob, lived a life of remarkable reinvention and influence. From her early years as a debutante to her later roles as a bohemian artist, publisher, and patron of the arts, she defied societal expectations and left an indelible mark on the literary and artistic landscape of the 20th century. This timeline highlights key moments in her fascinating journey.
Main Milestones
Birth of Mary Phelps Jacob
April 20, 1892
Mary Phelps Jacob was born into a wealthy and socially prominent New York family. This privileged background provided her with access to education and cultural opportunities that would later shape her independent spirit and artistic pursuits. Her upbringing, however, also instilled in her a sense of the restrictive nature of societal norms for women, something she would later actively rebel against.
The 'Backless Brassiere' Invention
1910
While preparing for a debutante ball, the young Mary Phelps Jacob found her whalebone corset cumbersome and unflattering under her sheer gown. Frustrated, she devised a solution using two handkerchiefs, ribbon, and cord – creating what became known as the 'backless brassiere'. Her innovation quickly gained popularity among her friends, offering a liberating alternative to the constricting corsets of the era. This ingenious invention would later be patented.
Patent for the Brassiere
1914
Recognizing the commercial potential of her invention, Mary Phelps Jacob obtained a patent for the 'backless brassiere.' Although she initially sold the patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company for a mere $1,500, the invention paved the way for the modern bra and represented a significant step toward female liberation from restrictive undergarments. Ironically, the bra would later become a multi-billion dollar industry.
Marriage to Harry Crosby
1920
Mary Phelps Jacob married Harry Crosby, a charismatic but troubled Harvard graduate and World War I veteran. This union marked a turning point in her life, leading her away from the conventional social circles of her upbringing and towards a more bohemian and avant-garde lifestyle. The marriage was passionate but turbulent, marked by Harry's erratic behavior and increasingly dark obsessions.
Founding of the Black Sun Press
1922
Caresse and Harry Crosby established the Black Sun Press in Paris, a publishing house dedicated to printing experimental and often controversial works by emerging and established writers. The press became a significant force in the literary world, publishing early works by authors such as James Joyce, Ernest Hemingway, D.H. Lawrence, and Ezra Pound. Caresse played a pivotal role in the press's success, acting as editor, translator, and business manager.
Life as a Patron of the Arts in Paris
1920s-1930s
Caresse and Harry Crosby became central figures in the Lost Generation of expatriate writers and artists living in Paris during the 1920s and 1930s. Their lavish parties and salons attracted a diverse group of intellectuals and creatives, fostering a vibrant atmosphere of artistic experimentation and intellectual exchange. Caresse's wealth and social connections enabled her to support these artists financially and promote their work.
Harry Crosby's Suicide
December 10, 1929
Harry Crosby's life ended tragically with a suicide pact in New York City. His death deeply impacted Caresse, forcing her to confront her husband's demons and the challenges of continuing the Black Sun Press without him. Despite the immense grief, Caresse persevered, demonstrating her resilience and commitment to the literary world.
Founding of Hampton Manor
1936
After her husband's death, Caresse returned to the United States and founded Hampton Manor, an artists' colony in Virginia. This utopian community provided a haven for writers, artists, and musicians, offering them a space to live, work, and collaborate. Hampton Manor reflected Caresse's ongoing commitment to supporting the arts and fostering creativity.
Return to Europe and Continued Artistic Pursuits
1940s-1950s
Caresse eventually returned to Europe, continuing to engage with the art world and pursue her own creative endeavors. She remained a patron of the arts, supporting emerging talents and organizing exhibitions. She moved to Italy and continued her own writing, focusing on poetry and memoirs.
Death in Rome
January 24, 1970
Caresse Crosby died in Rome, Italy, at the age of 77. Her life was a testament to her independent spirit, her unwavering support of the arts, and her willingness to challenge societal norms. She left behind a legacy as a literary patron, publisher, and an early pioneer of female liberation.