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Erhard Loretan
Erhard Loretan (28 April 1959 – 28 April 2011) was a Swiss mountain climber. He was the third man to climb all fourteen peaks over 8,000 meters, and the second to do so without supplementary oxygen.
Loretan was born in Bulle in the canton of Fribourg.
He climbed Dent de Broc, his first mountain at age 11 and made his first north face ascent at age 14. At 15, he climbed the east face of the Doldenhorn (3,643m) in the Bernese Alps. He trained as a cabinet maker (1979) and became a mountain guide in 1981.
Loretan was the third person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders (second without oxygen). He made his first expedition to the Andes in 1980 and began climbing the eight-thousanders in 1982 with an ascent of Nanga Parbat.
Thirteen years later, in 1995, he climbed the last of them, Kangchenjunga. Loretan took the principles of climbing fast and light in the Alps and applied them to the biggest mountains on Earth.
In 1983, he climbed Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak in alpine style, making the ascents in sequence across 17 days.
In 1984, he did a first ascent of Annapurna (8091m) by the 7km long east ridge with Norbert Joos and descended via the north side, a traverse that has never been repeated. That winter, he made the first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri.
In 1986, together with Jean Troillet, Loretan made a revolutionary ascent of Mount Everest in only 40 hours, climbing by night and without the use of supplementary oxygen. That winter he completed the "imperial crown" in the Valais Alps, summitting 38 peaks in 19 days.
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Erhard Loretan
Erhard Loretan (28 April 1959 – 28 April 2011) was a Swiss mountain climber. He was the third man to climb all fourteen peaks over 8,000 meters, and the second to do so without supplementary oxygen.
Loretan was born in Bulle in the canton of Fribourg.
He climbed Dent de Broc, his first mountain at age 11 and made his first north face ascent at age 14. At 15, he climbed the east face of the Doldenhorn (3,643m) in the Bernese Alps. He trained as a cabinet maker (1979) and became a mountain guide in 1981.
Loretan was the third person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders (second without oxygen). He made his first expedition to the Andes in 1980 and began climbing the eight-thousanders in 1982 with an ascent of Nanga Parbat.
Thirteen years later, in 1995, he climbed the last of them, Kangchenjunga. Loretan took the principles of climbing fast and light in the Alps and applied them to the biggest mountains on Earth.
In 1983, he climbed Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak in alpine style, making the ascents in sequence across 17 days.
In 1984, he did a first ascent of Annapurna (8091m) by the 7km long east ridge with Norbert Joos and descended via the north side, a traverse that has never been repeated. That winter, he made the first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri.
In 1986, together with Jean Troillet, Loretan made a revolutionary ascent of Mount Everest in only 40 hours, climbing by night and without the use of supplementary oxygen. That winter he completed the "imperial crown" in the Valais Alps, summitting 38 peaks in 19 days.