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Locations of the world's 14 eight-thousanders, which are split between the Himalayan (right, including Nanga Parbat, left), and the Karakoram mountain ranges (left)

The eight-thousanders are 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) with summits that exceed 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in elevation above sea level and are sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks as measured by topographic prominence. There is no formally agreed-upon definition of prominence, however, and at times the UIAA has considered whether the list of 8,000-metre peaks should be expanded to 20 peaks by including the major satellite peaks of the canonical 14 eight-thousanders. All of the Earth's eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone, where atmospheric oxygen pressure is insufficient to sustain human life for extended periods of time.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were first summited by expedition climbers in the summer season (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964); from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter season (the first to be summited in winter was Mount Everest in 1980, and the last was K2 in 2021). As measured by a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I, with one death (climber or climber support) for every three summiters, followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (each with one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (each with one death for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer, became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho set a speed record by climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.

Issues with false summits (e.g. Cho Oyu, Annapurna I, and Dhaulagiri), or separated dual summits (e.g. Shishapangma and Manaslu), have led to disputed claims of ascents.[1] In 2022, after several years of research, a team of experts reported that they could only confirm evidence that three climbers (Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja) had stood on the true geographic summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.[2]

Climbing history

[edit]

First ascents

[edit]
Flight over the Khumbu region; six eight-thousanders are visible

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, died in an avalanche.[3]

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.[4] Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended for the first time, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).[5]

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;[6] all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.[7] The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.[8]

Only two climbers have completed the first ascent of more than one eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak, in 1953 and 1957) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri, in 1957 and 1960). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first-ascent of an eight-thousander.[9] The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.[7] Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),[10] while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).[7]

All 14

[edit]
Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits
The 30–highest peaks in the world with over 500 m (1,640 ft) in prominence[11]

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.[7] Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest but on no other eight-thousander[7]).[12]

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.[13] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[14][15]

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet [it] on 11 May 2017.[16][17] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.[17][18]

On 22 May 2024, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 30th time (a record for Everest), also becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 41 times.[19] In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.[20] He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.[21]

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen.[22][23][24] On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.[25][26]

Deadliest

[edit]
See also: List of deaths on eight-thousanders
Estimated sample death rates for the 14 eight-thousanders[27][28][29]
Eight
thousander 		From 1950 to March 2012[29] Climber
death rate
[30][31][a]
Total
ascents[b] 		Total
deaths[c] 		Deaths as
% of ascents[d]
Everest 5656 223 3.9% 1.52%
K2 800 96 12%
Lhotse 461 13 2.8% 1.03%
Makalu 361 31 8.6% 1.63%
Cho Oyu 3138 44 1.4% 0.64%
Dhaulagiri I 448 69 15.4% 2.94%
Manaslu 661 65 9.8% 2.77%
Nanga Parbat 335 68 20.3% –[e]
Annapurna I 191 61 31.9% 4.05%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak) 		334 29 8.7% –[e]
Broad Peak 404 21 5.2% –[e]
Gasherbrum II 930 21 2.3% –[e]
Kangchenjunga 243 40 16% 3.00%
Shishapangma 302 25 8.3%

The eight-thousanders are the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate) is high.[33] Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.[32][34]

  • Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of total deaths[c] on the mountain to successful climbers summiting over a given period.[32] The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%.[35] Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%).[32] Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain (27.2%), followed by K2 (22.8%), Nanga Parbat (20.75%), Kangchenjunga (15%), and Dhaulagiri (13.5%).[34][33] Cho Oyu was the safest at 1.4%.[32][34]
  • Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit.[30] In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below).[30] The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat.[30] HDB estimates the probability of death for a climber attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.[30]

The tables from the HDB for eight-thousanders also show that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.[30]

List of first ascents

[edit]

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

First ascent and first winter ascent for each of the 14 eight-thousanders[27][29]
Mountain[27] First ascent[27] First winter ascent[27]
Name Height[36] Prom.[36] Country Date Summiter(s) Date Summiter(s)
Everest 8,849 m
(29,032 ft)[37] 		8,849 m
(29,032 ft) 		Nepal Nepal
China China 		29 May 1953[f]
 New Zealand Edmund Hillary

India Nepal Tenzing Norgay
on British expedition[f]

17 February 1980
 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Leszek Cichy
K2 8,611 m
(28,251 ft) 		4,020 m
(13,190 ft) 		Pakistan Pakistan
China China[38] 		31 July 1954 Italy Achille Compagnoni
Italy Lino Lacedelli

on Italian expedition

16 January 2021[8] NepalUnited Kingdom Nirmal Purja[42]

Nepal Gelje Sherpa
Nepal Mingma David Sherpa
Nepal Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
Nepal Sona Sherpa
Nepal Mingma Tenzi Sherpa
Nepal Pem Chhiri Sherpa
Nepal Dawa Temba Sherpa
Nepal Kili Pemba Sherpa
Nepal Dawa Tenjing Sherpa

Kangchenjunga 8,586 m
(28,169 ft) 		3,922 m
(12,867 ft) 		Nepal Nepal
India India[43] 		25 May 1955 United Kingdom George Band
United Kingdom Joe Brown
on British expedition 		11 January 1986 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
Lhotse 8,516 m
(27,940 ft) 		610 m
(2,000 ft) 		Nepal Nepal
China China 		18 May 1956 Switzerland Fritz Luchsinger
Switzerland Ernst Reiss 		31 December 1988 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Makalu 8,485 m
(27,838 ft) 		2,378 m
(7,802 ft) 		Nepal Nepal
China China 		15 May 1955 France Jean Couzy
France Lionel Terray
on French expedition 		9 February 2009 Italy Simone Moro
Kazakhstan Denis Urubko
Cho Oyu 8,188 m
(26,864 ft) 		2,344 m
(7,690 ft) 		Nepal Nepal
China China 		19 October 1954 Austria Joseph Joechler [de]
Nepal Pasang Dawa Lama
Austria Herbert Tichy 		12 February 1985 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Maciej Pawlikowski
Dhaulagiri I 8,167 m
(26,795 ft) 		3,357 m
(11,014 ft) 		Nepal Nepal 13 May 1960 Austria Kurt Diemberger
West Germany Peter Diener [de]
Nepal Nawang Dorje
Nepal Nima Dorje
Switzerland Ernst Forrer
Switzerland Albin Schelbert 		21 January 1985 Poland Andrzej Czok
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
Manaslu 8,163 m
(26,781 ft) 		3,092 m
(10,144 ft) 		Nepal Nepal 9 May 1956 Japan Toshio Imanishi [ja]
Nepal Gyalzen Norbu 		12 January 1984 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Ryszard Gajewski
Nanga Parbat 8,125 m
(26,657 ft) 		4,608 m
(15,118 ft) 		Pakistan Pakistan 3 July 1953 Austria Hermann Buhl
on German–Austrian expedition 		26 February 2016 Pakistan Muhammad Ali Sadpara
Italy Simone Moro
Spain Alex Txikon [es]
Annapurna I 8,091 m
(26,545 ft) 		2,984 m
(9,790 ft) 		Nepal Nepal 3 June 1950 France Maurice Herzog
France Louis Lachenal

on French expedition

3 February 1987 Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
Poland Artur Hajzer
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak) 		8,080 m
(26,510 ft) 		2,155 m
(7,070 ft) 		Pakistan Pakistan
China China 		5 July 1958 United States Andrew Kauffman
United States Pete Schoening 		9 March 2012 Poland Adam Bielecki
Poland Janusz Gołąb [pl]
Broad Peak 8,051 m
(26,414 ft) 		1,701 m
(5,581 ft) 		Pakistan Pakistan
China China 		9 June 1957 Austria Fritz Wintersteller
Austria Marcus Schmuck
Austria Kurt Diemberger
Austria Hermann Buhl
 5 March 2013 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Adam Bielecki
Poland Tomasz Kowalski [pl]
Poland Artur Małek [pl]
Gasherbrum II 8,034 m
(26,358 ft) 		1,524 m
(5,000 ft) 		Pakistan Pakistan
China China 		7 July 1956 Austria Fritz Moravec
Austria Josef Larch [de]
Austria Hans Willenpart [de] 		2 February 2011 Italy Simone Moro
Kazakhstan Denis Urubko
United States Cory Richards
Shishapangma 8,027 m
(26,335 ft) 		2,897 m
(9,505 ft) 		China China 2 May 1964 China Xu Jing
China Chang Chun-yen
China Wang Fuzhou
China Chen San
China Cheng Tien-liang
China Wu Tsung-yue
China Sodnam Doji
China Migmar Trashi
China Doji
China Yonten 		14 January 2005 Poland Piotr Morawski
Italy Simone Moro

List of climbers of all 14

[edit]
First to climb all 14 eight-thousanders
Reinhold Messner, first to climb all 14, and without oxygen
Edurne Pasaban, the first woman to climb all 14 after Oh Eun-sun's claim was disputed
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the first woman to climb all 14 without oxygen

There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.[1][44]

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,[45] is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas.[46][47] Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,[48] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.[1][44][49]

Verified ascents

[edit]
  First person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, and first to do so without supplementary oxygen
  First female to summit all 14 eight-thousanders; with supplementary oxygen
  First female to summit all 14 eight-thousanders; no supplementary oxygen
  Fastest ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders; with supplementary oxygen
  Fastest ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders; no supplementary oxygen
  Youngest person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders
  First disabled person to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders

The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

List of climbers who have summited all 14 eight-thousanders[50]
Order Order
(No O2) 		Name Period climbing
eight-thousanders 		Born Age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970–1986 1944 42 Italy Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979–1987 1948 39 Poland Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982–1995 1959 36 Switzerland Swiss
4 [51] Carlos Carsolio 1985–1996 1962 33 Mexico Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980–1996 1950 46 Poland Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985–1999 1956 43 Spain Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983–2000 1949 51 Italy Italian
8 Park Young-seok 1993–2001 1963 38 South Korea Korean
9 Um Hong-gil 1988–2001 1960[52] 40 South Korea Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991–2002[53] 1968 33 Spain Spanish
11 Han Wang-yong 1994–2003 1966 37 South Korea Korean
12 5[54] Ed Viesturs 1989–2005 1959 46 United States American
13 6[55][56][57] Silvio Mondinelli 1993–2007 1958 49 Italy Italian
14 7[58] Iván Vallejo 1997–2008 1959 49 Ecuador Ecuadorian
15 8[59] Denis Urubko 2000–2009 1973 35 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990–2009 1961[60] 47 Germany German
17[61] 9[62] Veikka Gustafsson 1993–2009 1968 41 Finland Finnish
18[63] Andrew Lock 1993–2009 1961[64] 48 Australia Australian
19 10 João Garcia 1993–2010 1967 43 Portugal Portuguese
20[65] Piotr Pustelnik 1990–2010 1951 58 Poland Polish
21[66] Edurne Pasaban 2001–2010 1973 36 Spain Spanish
22[67] Abele Blanc 1992–2011[68][69] 1954 56 Italy Italian
23 Mingma Sherpa 2000–2011[68] 1978 33 Nepal Nepali
24 11 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner 1998–2011[68] 1970 40 Austria Austrian
25 Vassily Pivtsov [de] 2001–2011[68] 1975 36 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
26 12 Maxut Zhumayev 2001–2011[68] 1977 34 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
27 Kim Jae-soo [de] 2000–2011[68] 1961 50 South Korea Korean
28[70] 13 Mario Panzeri 1988–2012 1964 48 Italy Italian
29[71] Hirotaka Takeuchi [ja] 1995–2012[71] 1971 41 Japan Japanese
30 Chhang Dawa Sherpa 2001–2013[68] 1982 30 Nepal Nepali
31 14 Kim Chang-ho 2005–2013[68] 1970 43 South Korea Korean
32 Jorge Egocheaga [eu] 2002–2014[72] 1968 45 Spain Spanish
33 15 Radek Jaroš 1998–2014[68] 1964 50 Czech Republic Czech
34/35[73] 16/17[73] Nives Meroi 1998–2017[74][75] 1961 55 Italy Italian
34/35[73] 16/17[73] Romano Benet [it] 1998–2017[74][75][76] 1962 55 Italy Italian / Slovenia Slovenian
36 Peter Hámor [sk] 1998–2017[77][78][79] 1964 52 Slovakia Slovak
37 18 Azim Gheychisaz 2008–2017[80] 1981 37 Iran Iranian
38 Ferran Latorre 1999–2017[81] 1970 46 Spain Spanish
39 19 Òscar Cadiach 1984–2017[82] 1952 64 Spain Spanish
40 Kim Mi-gon 2000–2018[83][84] 1973 45 South Korea Korean
41 Sanu Sherpa 2006–2019[85] 1975 44 Nepal Nepali
42 Nirmal Purja 2014–2019[24][86][g] 1983 36 United KingdomBritish[39][40][41]
43 Mingma Gyabu Sherpa 2010–2019[87][88] 1989 30 Nepal Nepali
44 Kim Hong-bin 2006–2021[89][90][91] 1964 57 South Korea Korean
45 Nima Gyalzen Sherpa 2004–2022[92][93] 1985 37 Nepal Nepali
46 Dong Hong Juan 2015–2023[94][95] 1981 42 China Chinese
47 Kristin Harila 2021–2023[96][97] 1986 37 Norway Norwegian
48 Sophie Lavaud [fr] 2012–2023[98][99][100][101] 1968 55 Switzerland Swiss / France French / Canada Canadian
49 Tunç Fındık 2001–2023[100][101] 1972 51 Turkey Turkish
50 Tenjen Lama Sherpa 2016–2023[25][26][102] 35[103] Nepal Nepali
51 Gelje Sherpa 2017–2023[104][105][106] 1992[104] 30 Nepal Nepali
52 Chris Warner 1999–2023[107] 1965 58 United States American
53 20 Marco Camandona 2000–2024[108][109] 1970 54 Italy Italian
54 Naoki Ishikawa 2001–4 October 2024[110][111] 1977 47 Japan Japanese
54 Tracee Metcalfe 2016–4 October 2024[112][110] 50[112] United States American
54 21 Sirbaz Khan 2017–4 October 2024[113][114][115][110] 1987 37 Pakistan Pakistani
54 Dawa Gyalje Sherpa ?–4 October 2024[110] Nepal Nepali
54 22 Mingma Gyalje Sherpa ?–4 October 2024[110] Nepal Nepali
59 23 Mario Vielmo [it] 1998–9 October 2024[116][117] 1964 60 Italy Italian
59 Naoko Watanabe [ja] 2006–9 October 2024[116][118][119] 1981 42 Japan Japanese
59 Adrian Laza 2016–9 October 2024[116][120] 1963 60 Romania Romanian
59 Pasang Nurbu Sherpa 2016-9 October 2024[116][121][122][123] Nepal Nepali
59 Shehroze Kashif 2019–9 October 2024[116][124][125][126] 2002 22 Pakistan Pakistani
59 Dorota Rasińska-Samoćko [pl] 2021–9 October 2024[116][127][128] Poland Polish
59 Adriana Brownlee 2021–9 October 2024[116] 2001 23 United Kingdom British
59 Nima Rinji Sherpa 2022–9 October 2024[116][129][130] 2006[131] 18 Nepal Nepali
59 Alasdair McKenzie 2022–9 October 2024[116] 2004 20 France French / United Kingdom British
59 Alina Pekova 2023–9 October 2024[116][132] Russia Russian
59 Ko-Erh Tseng ?–9 October 2024[116] Taiwan Taiwanese
70 Mingtemba Sherpa 2013-2024[133][134] Nepal Nepali
71 Tejan Gurung 2022-2024[135][136] Nepal Nepali / United Kingdom British
72 Pasang Tendi 2011-2024[137] Nepal Nepali
73 Uta Ibrahimi 2017-2025 [138][139] 1983 42 Kosovo Kosovo
74 Saško Kedev 2009-2025[140] 1962 63 North Macedonia Macedonian
75 Afsane Hesamifard 2021-2025[141] 1976 49 Iran Iranian
76 Chhiring Sherpa ?-2025[142] Nepal Nepali

Disputed ascents

[edit]

Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).[46][47] The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.[1][44]

Name and details Period climbing
eight-thousanders 		Born Age Nationality
Fausto De Stefani [it] (Lhotse 1997)[143]
His partner Sergio Martini reclimbed Lhotse in 2000 to verify his 14, see above. 		1983–1998 1952 46 Italy Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[144][145]
Hinkes rejected Hawley's decision to "unrecognise" his ascent, see "Cho Oyu dispute". 		1987–2005 1954 53 United Kingdom British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) 2000, Broad Peak 1995[146][147])[148][149]
As he did not claim the main summit of Shishapangma, this status is unlikely to change. 		1993–2004
(deceased) 		1953 49 Ukraine Ukrainian
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)[150][151][152]
As the potential first female climber of all 14, this dispute was followed internationally.[151] 		1997–2010 1966 44 South Korea Korean
Carlos Pauner [es] (Shishapangma 2012)[153]
Pauner acknowledged his uncertainty as it was dark; said he might reclimb.[154] 		2001–2013 1963 50 Spain Spanish
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)[155][156][157]
Suspected the 2018 Chinese Shishapangma expedition stopped at central summit. 		2000–2018 1964 54 China Chinese

Verification issues

[edit]

A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.[1][44]

Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak).[158][159] Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge.[1][160] When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.[161][1]

In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".[1] In June 2021, Australian climber Damien Gildea wrote an article in the American Alpine Journal on the work that Jurgalski and a team of international experts were doing in this area, including publishing detailed surveys of the problem summits using data from the German Aerospace Center.[44]

In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, and Thaneswar Guragai).[2][162] According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so.[2] Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen.[2] Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect.[2] The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".[2]

Proposed expansion

[edit]

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest.[163] To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander.[164] See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousanders.

In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new 8,000 m (26,247 ft)-plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition.[164] The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above 60 m (197 ft), but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of 600 m (1,969 ft) (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at 610 metres (2,001 ft)).[165][166] Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of 181 metres (594 ft), would even meet the 150 metres (492 ft) prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.[165] The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of 30 m (98 ft),[h] amongst other criteria; the logic being that if 30 m (98 ft) worked for 4,000 m (13,123 ft) summits, then 60 m (197 ft) is proportional for 8,000 m (26,247 ft) summits.[167]

As of April 2024, there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

  Proposed to the UIAA in 2012 for reclassification as standalone eight-thousanders.[164]
List of the subsidiary peaks of the 14 eight-thousanders[168]
Proposed new eight-thousander Height
(m) 		Prominence
(m) 		Dominance
(Prom / Height)
as a %[169] 		Dominance
classification[169]
Broad Peak Central 8011 181 2.26 B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang) 8505 135 1.59 C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak 8476 116 1.37 C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak 8473 63 0.74 C2
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle) 8410 65 0.77 C2
Lhotse Shar 8382 72 0.86 C2
K 2 SW-Peak 8580 30 0.35 D1
Lhotse C-Peak II 8372 37 0.44 D1
Everest W-Peak 8296 30 0.36 D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder 8200 40 0.49 D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak 8150 30 0.37 D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge) 8134 35 0.43 D1
Annapurna C-Peak 8051 49 0.61 D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak 8042 30 0.37 D1
Annapurna E-Peak 8026 65 0.81 C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak 8008 30 0.37 D1
Everest NE-Shoulder 8423 19 0.23 D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III 8383 13 0.16 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III 8327 10 0.12 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II 8307 12 0.14 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I 8290 10 0.12 D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II 8282 25 0.30 D2
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Notes

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References

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Eight-thousander

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An eight-thousander is a mountain peak with an elevation of at least 8,000 metres (26,247 feet) above , and there are exactly fourteen such independent peaks on , all situated in the Himalayan and ranges of . These peaks, formed by the tectonic collision between the Indian and Eurasian plates, represent the highest mountains in the world and pose extreme challenges to climbers due to thin air, , avalanches, and the "" above 8,000 metres where human survival without supplemental oxygen is limited to a few days. The fourteen eight-thousanders, ranked by height, are as follows:
RankMountainHeight (m)LocationFirst Ascent
18,849/1953 (, )
28,611/1954 (, )
38,586/1955 (Joe Brown, et al.)
48,516/1956 (Fritz Luchsinger, Ernst Reiss)
58,485/1955 (Jean Couzy et al.)
68,188/1954 (Herbert Tichy et al.)
78,1671960 (Kurt Diemberger et al.)
88,1631956 (Toshio Imanishi et al.)
98,1261953 ()
10Annapurna I8,0911950 (, )
118,080/1958 (Pete Kauffman, Andrew Schoening)
128,051/1957 (Marcus Schmuck et al.)
138,035/1956 (Fritz Moravec et al.)
148,0271964 (Hsu Ching et al.)
Climbing these peaks has a storied history, with the first eight-thousander summit—Annapurna I—achieved in 1950 by a French expedition, and the last, Shishapangma, in 1964 by a Chinese team; all were summited within a 14-year period during the mid-20th century "golden age" of Himalayan mountaineering. The pursuit of ascending all fourteen without supplemental oxygen became a legendary challenge, first accomplished by Italian climber Reinhold Messner between 1970 and 1986, and as of November 2025, approximately 70 individuals have completed the full set (with some ascents disputed), with speed records including Nirmal Purja's 189-day feat in 2019 and Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa's 92-day record in 2023. However, these mountains are notoriously deadly, with fatality rates exceeding 20% on peaks like Annapurna (~38%), K2 (~25%), and Nanga Parbat (~21%), where one death occurs for every four successful summits on average.

Definition and Overview

Classification Criteria

An eight-thousander is defined as a whose summit rises more than 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) above , a threshold that identifies the highest peaks on . Exactly 14 such peaks are universally recognized, all situated within the Himalayan and ranges of . In February 2025, recognized six additional subsidiary peaks over 8,000 m as eight-thousanders for permit and national purposes, though the international standard remains 14 independent peaks. This classification excludes subsidiary summits or sub-peaks unless they demonstrate sufficient topographic independence, typically requiring a prominence of at least 500 meters from their connecting to qualify as a distinct . The term "eight-thousander" originated in the mid-20th century among the international community, particularly in German-speaking Alpine circles where it is known as Acht-Tausender, to collectively describe these elite summits as expeditions targeted them following . It reflects a practical grouping for climbers and geographers focused on the world's most extreme altitudes, emphasizing their shared challenges in the "" above 8,000 meters. Heights are determined using orthometric elevation, which measures vertical distance above mean , accounting for gravitational variations and Earth's curvature. Early assessments relied on 19th-century trigonometric surveys, such as India's (initiated in 1802), which calculated peak elevations from distant observation stations using angular measurements and corrections for . Post-World War II advancements, including closer-range by the in the 1950s, refined these figures—for instance, revising Mount Everest's height from 29,002 feet to 29,028 feet. Contemporary verifications incorporate Global Navigation Satellite Systems (GNSS) and GPS technology for higher precision, as seen in the 2020 Sino-Nepalese joint survey that confirmed Everest at 8,848.86 meters.

Significance in Mountaineering

The eight-thousanders hold an iconic status in as the pinnacle of high-altitude challenges, attracting elite climbers worldwide since the mid-20th century due to their extreme elevations and harsh conditions within the "," where oxygen scarcity severely limits human endurance. These 14 peaks, all located in the and ranges, embody the ultimate test of physical, mental, and technical prowess, pushing boundaries of what is humanly possible in extreme environments. Following , the "" of Himalayan emerged, with expeditions to eight-thousanders symbolizing the exploration of human limits and serving as arenas for national prestige; the 1953 British ascent of by and , for instance, marked a triumphant achievement that captivated global attention and boosted national morale. This era transformed these mountains from remote mysteries into symbols of international ambition and technological ingenuity in climbing. In contemporary mountaineering, eight-thousanders continue to draw adventurers for record-breaking feats, including the fastest traversals of all 14 peaks and ascents without supplemental oxygen, as demonstrated by climbers like , who completed the project in under seven months in 2019. They also host commercial expeditions, enabling broader access while raising ethical debates on safety and sustainability. Economically, these activities significantly bolster and , with permit royalties generating around $5-6 million annually as of 2024, contributing to broader mountain tourism revenue exceeding $800 million in 2023. Philosophically, the eight-thousanders evoke profound themes of adventure, inherent risk, and , profoundly influencing literature and discourse on human-nature interactions; Jon Krakauer's 1997 account , detailing the 1996 disaster, exemplifies this by critiquing commercialization and the perils of in high-altitude pursuits. Statistically, as of 2025, over 15,000 successful summits have been recorded across the 14 peaks, underscoring their enduring allure, yet only around 60 climbers have verified completions of the full set, highlighting the extraordinary rarity of the endeavor.

Geography and Peaks

Locations and Mountain Ranges

The fourteen eight-thousanders are exclusively located in the Himalayan and mountain ranges of . Ten of these peaks are situated in the , spanning the territories of , , and (including the ), while the remaining four lie in the range along the border between and . is home to eight eight-thousanders, more than any other country, including peaks such as (shared with ), (shared with ), (shared with ), (shared with ), (shared with ), , , and . hosts five, comprising (shared with ), , (shared with ), (shared with ), and (shared with ). possesses eight through shared borders with and , in addition to , which is entirely within its . shares one, , along its border with . Notable clusters include the Everest-Lhotse massif in Nepal's , a encompassing these adjacent peaks. In , the Gasherbrum group—consisting of , , and —forms a prominent cluster in the remote region of the . Many eight-thousanders straddle international borders, creating complexities for climbers, such as the need for permits from multiple governments; for instance, requires approval solely from Chinese authorities due to its location deep within . Accessibility to these peaks typically begins with remote base camps reached via multi-day treks. The South Everest Base Camp, located at 5,364 meters in , serves as the primary staging area for and expeditions. Similarly, K2's base camp is accessed via the in , a rugged icefield in the Baltoro region that demands technical glacier travel.

Heights and Rankings

The 14 eight-thousanders are ranked by their summit elevations, all exceeding 8,000 meters above sea level, as recognized by the (UIAA). These heights are derived from historical surveys, with updates incorporating modern GPS and techniques; for instance, Mount Everest's elevation was precisely measured at 8,848.86 meters in a 2020 joint expedition by and using GNSS technology. Heights for the remaining peaks stem from mid-20th-century expeditions and subsequent validations, showing minor discrepancies of a few meters attributable to variable snow accumulation, glacial retreat, or measurement methodologies, though the overall ranking has remained stable since the . All peaks exhibit substantial , defined as the vertical distance from the lowest encircling the summit without higher intervening terrain; , for example, boasts a prominence of 4,020 meters, underscoring its isolation in the range. The following table presents the ranked list, including elevations, primary locations (straddling international borders where applicable), and the year of first documented ascent.
RankPeakHeight (m)LocationFirst Ascent Year
18,848.86/ (Himalayas)1953
28,611/ ()1954
38,586/ ()1955
48,516/ ()1956
58,485/ ()1955
68,188/ ()1954
78,167 ()1960
88,163 ()1956
98,126 ()1953
10Annapurna I8,091 ()1950
118,080/ ()1958
128,051/ ()1957
138,035/ ()1956
148,027 ()1964

Climbing History

Early Expeditions and Attempts

The exploration of eight-thousanders began with systematic surveys in the , primarily driven by British colonial efforts to map the and the Himalayan ranges. The of , initiated in under William Lambton and continued by , employed methods to measure vast territories, identifying numerous high peaks in the process. By the 1850s, surveyors had cataloged several prominent summits, with the highest initially labeled as Peak XV during observations from distant stations in the region. In 1856, Indian mathematician Radhanath Sikdar's calculations confirmed Peak XV's height at approximately 29,002 feet (8,840 meters), marking it as the world's tallest mountain, though it was not yet named . These surveys also pinpointed other eight-thousanders, such as Kanchenjunga (Peak IX) and (Peak XIV), providing the foundational geographical data that would guide future endeavors. In the early , reconnaissance expeditions shifted focus toward actual climbing attempts, with European teams targeting the formidable Himalayan giants despite limited technology and harsh conditions. German mountaineers, seeking national prestige, launched multiple assaults on starting in the 1920s, viewing it as a symbol of untamed challenge. The 1932 German-American expedition, led by Willy Merkl, reached altitudes of about 7,000 meters via the Rakhiot Face but retreated due to avalanches and exhaustion, marking the first major organized push on the peak without fatalities. This was followed by the ill-fated 1934 return under Merkl, which advanced to 7,500 meters before a catastrophic blizzard trapped the team, resulting in 16 deaths—including Merkl himself and several Sherpas—highlighting the peak's lethal weather patterns. Meanwhile, British efforts centered on , with the 1921 reconnaissance expedition under Charles Howard-Bury mapping routes from and confirming the as a viable approach, though no summits were attempted. The 1922 expedition, led by Charles Bruce, pushed to 8,170 meters but ended in tragedy when an avalanche killed seven Sherpa porters, underscoring the logistical perils of high-altitude portering. The 1924 attempt saw and Andrew Irvine vanish near the summit during their bid from 8,170 meters, fueling enduring speculation about whether they reached the top, while the team overall turned back amid oxygen shortages and storms. Further British probes in 1933, 1935, and 1938 reached similar heights but failed due to weather and physiological limits, establishing as the ultimate test of endurance. Interwar period highlights included pioneering efforts by unconventional figures that broadened participation in Himalayan exploration. In 1902, British climber and occultist joined Oscar Eckenstein's expedition to , the first serious attempt on the peak, approaching via the southeast ridge and establishing camps up to 6,500 meters before abandoning the climb due to , , and internal conflicts among the seven-member team. This venture, though unsuccessful, demonstrated K2's extreme technical demands and isolated nature. Women explorers also emerged, with American conducting extensive traverses in the and Punjab Himalaya; in 1906, she and her husband William ascended Pinnacle Peak (6,930 meters) in the Nun Kun massif, setting a women's altitude record at the time and mapping glaciers near potential eight-thousander routes. Technological innovations emerged as critical precursors during these attempts, particularly the experimental use of supplemental oxygen on in the 1920s. The 1922 expedition introduced closed-circuit oxygen apparatus designed by J.S. Haldane, allowing climbers like George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce to reach 8,326 meters—higher than previous efforts without aid—though equipment failures and heavy weights limited its reliability. Refined versions were tested in 1924, with Mallory and others using open-circuit sets, but malfunctions contributed to the expedition's overall failure, prompting debates on oxygen's ethical and practical role in "fair" ascents. Among the era's key failures was the 1939 German-American expedition led by , which approached via the Northeast Ridge and established advanced camps despite logistical strains. On , Wiessner and Pasang Kikuli reached 8,380 meters but turned back at approximately 8,400 meters due to sudden deteriorating weather, high winds, and fatigue, narrowly averting ; subsequent chaos claimed four lives from exhaustion and falls. This close call illustrated the razor-thin margins on , where environmental unpredictability often overwhelmed even seasoned teams.

First Ascents Timeline

The era of first ascents for the fourteen eight-thousanders, from to , represented a surge in organized high-altitude expeditions driven by national ambitions and advancing logistics, with teams averaging 10-15 climbers plus local support. Most routes followed reconnaissance from earlier attempts, often the southwest or northeast faces, and supplemental oxygen was employed in six of the fourteen initial summits to combat hypoxia, though eight were completed without it, showcasing human endurance limits. International rivalries intensified the efforts, notably the British conquest of prompting an Italian push for , while China's control over restricted foreign access to until its own team succeeded. In June 1950, a French team of eleven, led by Maurice Herzog, achieved the first eight-thousander summit on Annapurna I (8,091 m), with Herzog and Louis Lachenal reaching the top on the 3rd via the North Face route after establishing six camps; they forwent supplemental oxygen on the final push due to frozen masks, resulting in severe frostbite for both. The expedition's success, amid monsoon conditions and logistical challenges, set a benchmark for rapid acclimatization but underscored the physical toll, with Herzog losing all fingers and toes to amputation. The year 1953 marked two breakthroughs amid post-World War II resurgence in Alpine nations. On July 3, an Austro-German expedition of twelve, organized by Karl Herrligkoffer, saw summit (8,126 m) solo without oxygen after a 40-hour marathon from Camp V on the Rupal Face's southeast ridge, carrying minimal gear and bivouacking en route; this daring solo effort, following multiple fatalities on prior attempts, highlighted individual prowess over team logistics. Just two months earlier, on May 29, a British team of thirty-five climbers and support staff, led by John Hunt, conquered (8,848 m) via the route, with and as the first summiteers using open-circuit oxygen from Camp IX at 8,550 m; the expedition fixed 6,000 feet of rope and relied on Sherpa porters for loads up to 50 pounds each. Responding to British prestige, an Italian expedition of twelve, led by Ardito Desio, claimed (8,611 m) on July 31, 1954, when and summited via the Abruzzi Spur after placing eight camps and using bottled oxygen that depleted near the top, forcing a 36-hour descent; the effort involved 5 miles of fixed ropes but was marred by internal disputes, including a high bivouac for support climbers and without shelter. Later that October, on the 19th, an Austrian team of seven, led by Herbert Tichy, made the without oxygen of (8,188 m) via the northwest ridge from , with Tichy, Josef Jöchler, and Pasang Dawa Lama reaching the summit after a traverse from Nangpa La pass; this lightweight approach, using yaks for , emphasized over . 1955 brought French and British successes on remaining Himalayan giants. On , a French expedition of ten, led by Jean Franco, summited (8,485 m) without oxygen via the north ridge from , with Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy as the first pair after seven camps amid high winds; the team acclimatized via nearby peaks, avoiding the oxygen-dependent approach of earlier giants. Ten days later, on , a British team of ten, led by Charles Evans, reached (8,586 m) via the southwest face from , with Joe Brown and summiting using oxygen from Camp VII at 8,200 m, followed hours later by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather; the expedition, originally a , fixed extensive ropes on Yalung icefalls and honored local Sikkimese traditions by not stepping on the true summit. The year 1956 saw four first ascents, reflecting maturing expedition tactics. On May 9, a Japanese team of eighteen, led by Yuko Maki, climbed (8,163 m) via the northeast face from the north, with Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu as summiteers using oxygen after multiple falls claimed lives; the route required 4,000 feet of fixed lines. Days later, on May 18, a Swiss expedition of ten, led by Albert Eggler, summited (8,516 m) adjacent to via its southwest face, with Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger using oxygen in a single-push from Camp IV; this ascent leveraged base camp logistics. In July, on the 7th, an Austrian team of four, led by Fritz Moravec, achieved (8,035 m) without oxygen via the southwest ridge in alpine style, with all members—Moravec, Josef , Hans Willenpart, and Sepp —summiting in light gear after a fast approach from Concordia. In 1957, another Austrian team of four, led by Marcus Schmuck, made the of (8,051 m) on June 9 without oxygen or fixed ropes, via the northwest ridge in pure alpine style, with Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger, and all summiting over three days from base camp at 5,100 m; this expedition, starting from with minimal porters, epitomized efficiency in the . The Americans followed in 1958, with a U.S. expedition of ten, led by Nicholas Clinch, summiting (8,080 m) on July 5 without oxygen via the southwest ridge, where and Andy Kauffman reached the top after a famous "" rescue lower down; the team used fixed ropes sparingly and benefited from Army support. Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) fell in 1960 to an international Swiss-Austrian team of ten, led by Max Eiselin, on May 13 via the northeast ridge, with Diemberger, Peter Diener, Forrer, Albin Schelbert, and two Sherpas summiting without oxygen after navigating massive ice cliffs and avalanches that had thwarted thirteen prior attempts; the route involved reconnaissance for safety. Finally, on May 2, 1964, a Chinese expedition of over fifty, led by Sung-chi, achieved the only first ascent by a single nation's team on (8,027 m) via the north ridge from , with ten members including reaching the summit without foreign involvement due to political isolation; this success, using oxygen and extensive fixed lines, closed the era of eight-thousander conquests.

Key Milestones

One of the most significant post-first-ascent milestones in eight-thousander climbing was the completion of all 14 peaks by individual mountaineers. became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen, achieving this feat on October 16, 1986, with his ascent of . followed as the second, completing the set on September 18, 1987, after summiting , though he used oxygen on some peaks. Pioneering oxygen-free ascents represented another breakthrough, challenging the physiological limits of high-altitude climbing. and made the first verified no-oxygen summit of on May 8, 1978, via the Southeast Ridge route, proving that such climbs were possible without bottled support. As of 2025, approximately 250 oxygen-free ascents of had been recorded, reflecting growing acceptance of this demanding style among elite climbers. Speed records highlighted evolving athleticism and route efficiency on these peaks. In 2017, Kilian Jornet set a fastest-known time for an oxygen-free round trip on , ascending from North Base Camp (5,150 m) to the summit and descending in 26 hours on May 22, without using fixed ropes or supplemental oxygen. achieved a notable milestone by becoming the first American to complete all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen, finishing on Annapurna I in 2005 after an 18-year project. Winter ascents of all 14 peaks marked a collective triumph over extreme cold and shortened weather windows. By 2021, every eight-thousander had seen at least one verified winter , with the final missing piece—the first winter summit of —accomplished on January 16, 2021, by a 10-member Nepalese team led by . Technological and logistical innovations further transformed eight-thousander expeditions after the initial ascents. The widespread use of fixed ropes along key routes improved safety and accessibility from the onward, while advances in satellite-based —dramatically enhanced post-1996—allowed climbers to time summit bids more precisely and avoid deadly storms. The rise of commercial guiding, pioneered by companies like founded in 1991, democratized access to these peaks, enabling non-elite climbers to attempt them under professional supervision.

Risks and Challenges

Deadliest Peaks

Among the fourteen eight-thousanders, fatality rates vary significantly, with Annapurna I consistently ranking as the deadliest based on the ratio of deaths to successful summits. As of late 2025, data from sources citing indicate approximately 75 fatalities on Annapurna I from about 395 summits, yielding a fatality rate of around 19%, the highest among all peaks due to its treacherous north face routes prone to and collapses. K2 holds a high rate at about 10%, with around 100 recorded deaths from roughly 964 summits, often attributed to its steep, technical pyramid structure and unpredictable weather in the . follows at approximately 20%, with about 90 deaths out of roughly 450 summits, earning its nickname "Killer Mountain" from early expeditions marred by massive avalanches and rockfalls on the Rupal Face. While has a comparatively lower rate of 2.5%, it accounts for the highest absolute number of fatalities—around 340—owing to its popularity and volume of climbers, exceeding 13,700 summits (total ascents).
PeakApproximate Fatality Rate (%)Total Deaths (as of late 2025)Key Contributing Factors
Annapurna I1975Avalanches, exposure on north face
10~100Serac falls, steep ice on Bottleneck
20~90Rockfalls, avalanches on Rupal Face
2.5~340High volume, icefalls,
These figures encompass all causes of death, including avalanches, falls, exposure, and exhaustion, as compiled by , which tracks expeditions since the 1950s. Prominent incidents underscore the peaks' dangers. On , the 2014 Khumbu Icefall avalanche killed 16 Sherpas in a single event, exposing vulnerabilities in fixed-rope logistics despite supplemental oxygen use. K2's 2008 tragedy claimed 11 lives over 48 hours, triggered by a collapse above the Bottleneck that severed fixed ropes, leading to falls and further avalanches during attempts. Fatality rates have generally declined over decades thanks to advancements in , , and acclimatization protocols, reducing overall risks by up to 50% since the 1990s on many peaks. However, episodic spikes persist from , as evidenced by the 2019 season, where congestion in the "death zone" contributed to exhaustion-related deaths amid record permit numbers. In 2025, saw only 5 deaths despite ~800 summits, reflecting improved safety measures.

Environmental and Health Hazards

Climbing eight-thousanders exposes mountaineers to severe physiological stresses due to extreme altitudes above 8,000 meters, where oxygen levels are critically low, leading to hypoxia—a condition characterized by insufficient oxygen delivery to tissues that impairs cognitive and physical function. At approximately 8,400 meters on peaks like , arterial oxygen partial pressure drops to around 25 mmHg, reducing saturation to 50% and necessitating extreme to maintain minimal oxygen supply. This environment, known as the "death zone," refers to altitudes exceeding 8,000 meters where the cannot fully acclimatize, resulting in continuous deterioration of muscle tissue, organ function, and overall vitality if exposure exceeds a few days. Hypoxia can progress to life-threatening high-altitude illnesses, including (HAPE) and (HACE). HAPE involves fluid accumulation in the lungs due to hypoxic pulmonary vasoconstriction and elevated pressure, manifesting as , with pink frothy , and potentially fatal , with incidence rates up to 15% among rapid ascenders above 3,000 meters. HACE, often a complication of untreated HAPE or acute mountain sickness, causes brain swelling from vasogenic edema, leading to , confusion, and ; it is rare below 4,300 meters but becomes a critical risk in the . Extreme weather conditions amplify these hazards on eight-thousanders, with winds frequently exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph) at summit levels, creating hurricane-force gusts that can halt ascents and cause through . Avalanches pose a constant threat, particularly from unstable seracs—towering ice towers that can collapse without warning, as seen on the Lhotse Face of and , where steep 40-50 degree ice slopes are prone to sudden icefalls burying climbers. Additional terrain-related dangers include falls, where hidden fissures in glacial ice can swallow climbers, especially in areas like the on , contributing to 13% of icefall deaths. is prevalent due to temperatures dropping to -60°C (-76°F) combined with high winds, damaging extremities and requiring vigilant gear management. Logistical challenges, such as route maintenance in dynamic , are addressed by specialized Sherpa teams known as "Icefall Doctors," who install ladders and ropes across shifting crevasses and seracs, facing heightened risks of collapse during their 40 annual traverses. Human activity exacerbates on these peaks, with waste accumulation from expeditions— including discarded oxygen canisters, tents, and —reaching significant levels; for instance, Nepalese authorities removed 11 tonnes of garbage from and nearby peaks in 2024 alone. intensifies these issues by accelerating glacier melt, which exposes buried waste and increases frequency as destabilizes slopes, heightening and risks on routes like 's . To mitigate these hazards, climbers follow strict acclimatization protocols, ascending no more than 500 meters per day above 3,000 meters and incorporating rest days every 1,000 meters to allow physiological adaptations like increased production. Supplemental oxygen is employed in the vast majority of ascents—over 95% on , where only about 3% of the documented summits were achieved without it—delivering 2-4 liters per minute to simulate lower altitudes and reduce hypoxia-related risks. Medications such as (125 mg twice daily) further aid prevention by accelerating and lowering acute mountain sickness incidence by up to 50%.

Notable Climbers and Achievements

Climbers of All Fourteen

As of 2025, just over 50 climbers have been verified to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders, a feat that began with becoming the first in 1986 by completing the challenge without supplemental oxygen. The second was Polish climber in 1987, known for pioneering numerous new routes on these peaks. American followed as the first from the in 2005, also achieving all ascents without bottled oxygen. Nepalese climber "Nims" Purja set the record for the fastest completion in 2019, summiting all 14 in 189 days. Demographically, the group consists predominantly of men from and , though Nepali Sherpas have increasingly dominated recent completions, with more than 10 individuals achieving the full set by 2025. The first woman to complete all 14 was Spanish climber in 2010. The youngest verified completer is Nepalese Sherpa Nima Rinji, who finished at age 18 in 2024. Notable records include Messner's unparalleled achievement of all 14 ascents without supplemental oxygen and Purja's , which leveraged commercial expeditions and helicopter logistics. Completions have surged since 2000, driven by the rise of guided commercial climbs that make these extreme endeavors more accessible to skilled amateurs and professionals alike.
ClimberCompletion YearNotable Feats
(Italy)1986First overall; all 14 without supplemental oxygen; all true summits
(Poland)1987Second overall; pioneered 8 new routes on eight-thousanders
(USA)2005First American; all 14 without supplemental oxygen
(Spain)2010First woman
(Nepal)2019Fastest time (189 days); used commercial support
Nima Rinji Sherpa (Nepal)2024Youngest at 18; multiple Sherpa records

Verification and Disputes

The verification of ascents on eight-thousanders, particularly claims of completing all 14 peaks, relies on independent bodies that scrutinize evidence to ensure climbers reached the true summit—the highest reachable point—rather than false or sub-summits. Key organizations include 8000ers.com, which maintains detailed ascent lists and applies community-sourced evidence to validate claims, and , a comprehensive archive of Nepalese Himalayan expeditions based on permits, reports, and historical records. These bodies typically require supporting documentation such as summit photos showing identifiable features, GPS tracks confirming the precise location, and witness statements from fellow climbers or Sherpas to corroborate the ascent. For instance, historically conducted interviews with climbers to verify details, though it ceased this practice for commercial expeditions in 2023 to streamline processing amid rising permit volumes. Common verification challenges involve false summits, where climbers mistake prominent sub-peaks for the true top due to poor visibility or fatigue, and misreporting of supplemental oxygen use, which can inflate the perceived difficulty of an ascent. On , for example, the rocky sub-summit—about two hours and several hundred meters below the actual peak—has led to numerous disputed claims, including those from 2007 expeditions where and itineraries failed to confirm the final traverse. Oxygen discrepancies often arise from ambiguous expedition logs or statements, undermining "no-oxygen" that are prized in ethics. These issues have prompted bodies like 8000ers.com to retroactively correct , marking 19 false summits in 2024 alone. Major disputes highlight the stakes of verification, with several high-profile cases resulting in debunked all-14 claims. In the 2000s, South Korean climber Oh Eun-sun's bid to become the first woman to summit all 14 was invalidated after evidence showed she likely reached only a sub-summit on , due to contradictory photos and teammate accounts. Polish expeditions in the 1980s faced oxygen controversies, particularly on , where reports of bottled oxygen use during purported "fair means" ascents by figures like sparked debates over transparency, as some logs omitted details to align with the era's purist ideals. In the , allegations of GPS data manipulation have surfaced on and other peaks, with mandating tracking devices since 2017 to curb faked claims, including instances of altered coordinates or photoshopped images to simulate summits. These cases, such as a 2022 Indian climber's ban for doctoring photos, underscore how technology both aids and complicates proof. Ethical standards for verification are guided by the (UIAA), which emphasizes honesty, minimal environmental impact, and respect for style in its declarations, influencing how are maintained to preserve the sport's integrity. Violations can lead to exclusions from official lists, affecting legacy and sponsorships, as seen in the UIAA's rejection of attempts to retroactively disqualify historic no-oxygen ascents. Post-2010, verification has grown stricter, driven by social media's proliferation of real-time photos and videos, which provide irrefutable evidence but also amplify scrutiny; initiatives like 8000ers.com's updated tables now demand conclusive proof for recent claims, leading to corrections of false summits while the total number of verified all-14 completers continues to grow beyond 50 as of 2025. This evolution reflects a broader push for amid commercialization.

Future and Expansion

Proposed New Eight-thousanders

In recent years, discussions have emerged about expanding the list of eight-thousanders beyond the traditional 14 peaks recognized by the (UIAA). These proposals primarily stem from revised national classifications and debates over measurement accuracy, with Nepal's government announcing in February 2025 the addition of six new peaks exceeding 8,000 meters within its borders, bringing its official count to 14. However, these additions consist largely of subsidiary summits with low , and the UIAA has maintained its stance on the classic 14 as of November 2025, with no formal updates. The six peaks added by Nepal are: Yalung Khang (8,505 m, prominence ~135 m), Yalung Khang West (8,077 m, prominence low), Central (8,473 m, prominence low), South (8,476 m, prominence 76 m), Lhotse Shar (8,383 m, prominence ~86 m), and Lhotse Middle (8,410 m, prominence low). Key examples include Yalung Kang (also known as Yalung Khang), a sub-peak of measuring 8,505 meters with a prominence of approximately 135 meters, which Nepal has reclassified as an independent eight-thousander despite its close proximity (1.1 km) to the main summit. Similarly, South Peak at 8,476 meters boasts only 76 meters of prominence, rendering it a subsidiary feature connected by a low to the primary massif. Lhotse Shar, at 8,383 meters with 86 meters of prominence, represents another contested addition as the eastern highpoint of 's central ridge, lacking the isolation typical of the original list. The core debate revolves around the criteria for inclusion, traditionally requiring peaks to exceed 8,000 with sufficient prominence—often cited as at least 400 —to qualify as distinct mountains rather than mere sub-summits. Proponents of expansion, including Nepalese authorities, argue that modern techniques and national justify recognizing these features, especially as they present unique climbing challenges. Critics, however, emphasize that low-prominence peaks dilute the prestige of the "14 club," a milestone achieved by only around 50 climbers worldwide. While the have seen accelerated glacier retreat in the —potentially altering surface elevations—no evidence links this directly to new eight-thousander candidates, though it underscores the need for ongoing topographic reassessments. If prominence thresholds were relaxed, the list could theoretically grow to 15–20 peaks, incorporating additional sub-summits like Yalung Kang West (8,077 meters) or Kangchenjunga Central (8,473 meters). Yet, purists and the UIAA oppose such changes to preserve the historical and technical integrity of the category, with ongoing discussions unlikely to yield official additions by . This tension highlights evolving perspectives on what constitutes an eight-thousander in an era of precise geospatial data.

Conservation and Sustainability

The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC), founded in 1991 as a community-based nonprofit, leads efforts in Nepal's Everest region by installing infrastructure like garbage bins along trails, conducting annual cleanups, and removing non-biodegradable trash from base camps and higher altitudes. In one notable effort, the SPCC collected 77,191 kilograms of waste from Everest expeditions in spring 2024. Similarly, Pakistan implemented permit restrictions in the range starting in 2023, with a pricing structure of $12,000 for groups of up to seven members ($3,000 per additional member, up to 20 total) and requiring single-peak permits to curb overcrowding on mountains like K2. Nepal's regulations for eight-thousanders emphasize environmental accountability, with the climbing permit fee raised to $15,000 per foreign climber effective September 2025—a 36% increase from the prior $11,000—to fund conservation, including cleanup operations and infrastructure. Expeditions must post refundable cleanup bonds to ensure all waste is removed, with penalties for non-compliance. Complementing this, a ban on single-use plastics thinner than 30 microns, including bottles and bags, has been enforced in the Everest region since January 2020 to minimize litter on trails and peaks. Over-tourism poses significant challenges, as issues over 400 Everest permits annually—translating to more than 1,000 climbers and support staff during peak spring seasons—leading to congestion, heightened waste generation, and strain on local resources. compounds these issues, accelerating glacier melt and destabilizing features like the , where rising temperatures have increased the frequency of ice collapses and extended the hazardous traversal time for climbers. Successes in sustainability include widespread adoption of "" campaigns across the in the 2020s, which promote practices like packing out all waste and minimizing trail erosion to protect alpine ecosystems. Sherpa-led initiatives have advanced eco-guiding on eight-thousanders, training local guides to enforce low-impact techniques and integrate waste reduction into expeditions. Protected areas like , encompassing several eight-thousanders, harbor recovering biodiversity, including snow leopards whose populations have rebounded since the 1980s through habitat restoration and reduced poaching. Looking ahead, conservation advocates are pushing for global moratoriums on opening new climbing routes in the to prevent further of fragile high-altitude ecosystems and allow natural recovery amid ongoing pressures.

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