Justacorps

A justacorps or justaucorps (/ˈʒuːstəkɔːr/) is a knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century and throughout the 18th century. It is of French origin, where it had developed from a cape-like garment called a casaque. It was introduced into England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, which also included breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype for the modern-day three-piece suit. The justacorps itself evolved into the frock coat.

The fabric selection and styling of the justacorps varied over time, as fashions altered through history. Elaborated forms featuring rich embroidery and embellishments were influenced by Indo-Persian and Turkish garments, which cultures influential Europeans were increasingly in contact with, through travel, trade, and diplomatic missions. East European garments of similar cut became fashionable around the same time as the justacorp arrived in Western Europe, and its construction and decoration were also influenced by "oriental" modes.

The casaque, a voluminous travellers' cloak, became popular during Louis XIII's time for protection from the elements. It had evolved from the simple smock and now had separate front, back and shoulder pieces so that could be worn as a semicircular cape or, with simple adjustments, as a jacket. While adaptable in general use, and a mainstay of the military wardrobe, from the mid-17th century developments in weaponry meant the casaque was now proving too cumbersome as soldiers' clothing, its bulk impeding easy access to their weapons. A redesigned version was given a more fitted cut, from which it acquired a new descriptive name just-au-corps, lit. 'just to the body', and a full-length central front opening with button fastenings. This practical military garment with enhanced freedom of movement, went on to be elaborated into a style of coat that became popular with civilians. Its success outside the military was greatly aided by Louis XIV's promotion of it.

The justaucorps, according to historian Susan Mokhberi, was influenced by a similar Persian coat, which also featured floral embroidery and tight-fitting body and sleeves. Similar coats such as the angarkha had been worn in India for centuries, and could be either sleeved or sleeveless. Variations of these were often worn by wealthy travellers who visited India or "the East" during the early 1600s; some returned with them to Europe. On occasion, portraits of the returned travellers in their "exotic" garb were painted (for example, of the 1st Earl Of Denbigh (c. 1632), by van Dyck).

A garment that came into fashion in Poland and Hungary at the same time was the żupan or dolman with its distinctive turn-back cuffs and decorative gold braid. The żupan started out as a long and heavy winter gown before becoming shorter and more fitted during the 16th century. These Polish garments (kontusz and żupan) were also based on oriental influences, due to the Polish cultural ideology of Sarmatism. These Central European and Indian long coats probably influenced the design of the justacorps later favored by Louis XIV of France and King Charles due to their exotic appearance, comfort and practicality.

The spread of the justacorps throughout the French army was accelerated by Louis XIV's military reforms which included standardised uniforms for the first time. Worn in regimental colours, the justacorp was an essential element of the new uniforms. By 1660, the garment, made in luxurious fabrics and ornamented lavishly was standard wear in the French court. Louis instituted an intricate and regulated system of ceremonial and court dress, under which his courtiers vied with one another in the splendour of their attire, and the approval of king. From 1662 Louis created the justaucorps à brevet ('warrant justacorps'), to an exclusive design, changed annually. As the Persian rulers had done with their native garment, King Louis XIV bestowed this special garment upon key subjects as an emblem of his favour. Strictly limited in number, the nobles awarded it had privileged access to the king. In this way the justacorps came to be associated with absolutism in France, highlighting links and commonalities between the Safavid and Bourbon absolutist regimes. Such perceptions contributed the rapid evolution of the justacorp to the plainer, more streamlined coats that appeared in the wake of the French Revolution.

Despite sumptuary laws aimed at restricting the bourgeois wear of prestige fabrics and garments, growing wealth in the mercantile sector gave non-aristocrats the means to clothe themselves luxuriously. The king and his court set the fashions, while attempts to keep them exclusive to the nobility met with limited success. Wealthy merchants adopted justacorps in ornate styles and fine fabrics; over the 18th century the justacorps became the standard outer garment for men in France, persisting until the French Revolution. A shorter form of the justacorps, together with culottes, veste and cravat became so much the norm it was called habit à la française.

Under King Charles II of England a plainer, more sober take on the earlier but similarly-cut justaucorps, veste and culottes outfit which had been imposed by King Louis XIV in the French court was also introduced to England. In 1666, Charles had made a deliberate effort to differentiate men's fashions in England from those of France, which up to then had been the major influence in the English court and fashionable society. He declared a new garment, referred to as a vest or waistcoat, to be the appropriate garment for gentlemen. The vest was knee-length, worn in conjunction with breeches and an overcoat of equal length. This outfit is considered to be the prototype of the modern-day men's three-piece suit.