Oshiroi

Oshiroi (白粉) is a powder foundation traditionally used by kabuki actors, geisha, and their apprentices. The word is written with kanji meaning "white powder", and is pronounced as the word for white (shiroi) with the honorific prefix o-.

When worn by geisha and maiko, oshiroi is notable for only partially covering the nape of the neck, as an uncovered nape was traditionally considered erotic in Japanese culture.

Oshiroi is traditionally applied over a base of two types of wax used as a primer: ishineri (石練) is applied to the eyebrows, whereas bintsuke (facial wax) is applied to cover the rest of the face and the neck. The upper portion of back is also covered if the wearer will be dressed in a susohiki ("trailing skirt") kimono, where the upper half of the neck will be visible.

The oshiroi is mixed with water before being applied with a wide, flat brush over the neck, face and back. The oshiroi must be mixed carefully with water to achieve the right consistency, and can be difficult to achieve, as oshiroi that has too much moisture will not apply smoothly to the face, and oshiroi that has too little will crack and potentially fall off when worn.

Oshiroi is painted straight over the eyebrows, with the ishineri providing a smooth surface over the eyebrows to be painted over. The face is then powdered with rice powder, before the details around the eyes, eyebrows and mouth are drawn in.

For both geisha and maiko, application of oshiroi varies by occasion, use, and sometimes region.

Both geisha and maiko wear oshiroi on the face and neck, but application on the back of the neck differs per occasion. For most situations, a pattern known as eri-ashi (襟足, lit. 'nape legs') is worn, forming two triangular stripes of unpainted skin from the nape of the neck downward. For formal occasions, a three-stripe pattern known as sanbon-ashi (三本足, lit. 'triple legs') is used.

Eri-ashi can be painted freehand with a smaller brush, but sanbon-ashi are generally painted using a stencil. Both geisha and maiko, whilst aiming for a white-faced appearance, do not use a heavy application of oshiroi unless worn for special performances, instead blending the foundation into the skin with the use of a blusher, known as tonoko.