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Rolex GMT Master II
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Rolex GMT Master II
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date GMT Master is part of the Rolex Professional Watch Collection. Designed in collaboration with the now defunct U.S.-based Pan Am airline for use by their pilots and navigators, it was launched in 1954.
By 1954, Rolex had gained a reputation and following amongst military pilots, many of whom chose to privately purchase the brand's watches. Pan American Airways's senior navigator, decorated World War II Captain Frederick Libby, was tasked with nominating a company to work on a watch which would always show 'GMT' time (Greenwich Mean Time), alongside the local time, to aid navigation on transoceanic flights. Libby had worn a Rolex during World War II and since, and so chose the brand.
The partnership resulted in the GMT-Master Ref. 6542 which featured an independent 24-hour hand complication, and a rotating bezel split into red and blue, the brand colors associated with the airline, color-coded for day (red) and night (blue).
The watch was issued to every pilot and navigator in Pan Am, and remained their official watch until the airline declared bankruptcy and ceased operations in 1991.
In 1982, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II, which utilised the caliber 3085 to decouple of the 12-hour and the 24-hour hand. This mean that the 24-hour hand could be 'jumped' one hour in either direction, without stopping the movement.
An updated Rolex GMT Master II was released in 2005. This new model features a number of technical changes, such as Rolex's patented Parachrom hairspring as well as a larger Triplock crown (from the diver's watches). The new model also has several cosmetic changes, such as larger case, hands and hour markers and also a new bezel made using an extremely hard ceramic material that is designed to be more scratch and fade resistant. Also included in the update is a new and more luxurious style of bracelet that has heavier solid links and a machined clasp. The stainless steel version now joins the precious metal versions by having highly polished centre links on its bracelet.
In 2007, Rolex introduced the ceramic bezel insert to the GMT-Master II range, replacing the aluminum insert (colors created using an anodizing process) that had been used since 1959. While ceramic is much more scratch resistant than aluminum, Rolex initially could not continue to produce the two-color bezel used to distinguish between the day and night times of the second time zone, particularly the color red which could not be created satisfactorily in ceramic.
It would now seem based on a recent patent issued to Rolex (2024), that the red ceramic bezel bleed has been overcome, indicating a red and black ceramic bezel "coke" may return in the future. In early 2026, ahead of the Watches and Wonders 2026 Conference, the "Pepsi" (red and blue bezel) was a discontinueed mode at Authorised Dealers, and removed from the Rolex and associated dealer websites.
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Rolex GMT Master II
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date GMT Master is part of the Rolex Professional Watch Collection. Designed in collaboration with the now defunct U.S.-based Pan Am airline for use by their pilots and navigators, it was launched in 1954.
By 1954, Rolex had gained a reputation and following amongst military pilots, many of whom chose to privately purchase the brand's watches. Pan American Airways's senior navigator, decorated World War II Captain Frederick Libby, was tasked with nominating a company to work on a watch which would always show 'GMT' time (Greenwich Mean Time), alongside the local time, to aid navigation on transoceanic flights. Libby had worn a Rolex during World War II and since, and so chose the brand.
The partnership resulted in the GMT-Master Ref. 6542 which featured an independent 24-hour hand complication, and a rotating bezel split into red and blue, the brand colors associated with the airline, color-coded for day (red) and night (blue).
The watch was issued to every pilot and navigator in Pan Am, and remained their official watch until the airline declared bankruptcy and ceased operations in 1991.
In 1982, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II, which utilised the caliber 3085 to decouple of the 12-hour and the 24-hour hand. This mean that the 24-hour hand could be 'jumped' one hour in either direction, without stopping the movement.
An updated Rolex GMT Master II was released in 2005. This new model features a number of technical changes, such as Rolex's patented Parachrom hairspring as well as a larger Triplock crown (from the diver's watches). The new model also has several cosmetic changes, such as larger case, hands and hour markers and also a new bezel made using an extremely hard ceramic material that is designed to be more scratch and fade resistant. Also included in the update is a new and more luxurious style of bracelet that has heavier solid links and a machined clasp. The stainless steel version now joins the precious metal versions by having highly polished centre links on its bracelet.
In 2007, Rolex introduced the ceramic bezel insert to the GMT-Master II range, replacing the aluminum insert (colors created using an anodizing process) that had been used since 1959. While ceramic is much more scratch resistant than aluminum, Rolex initially could not continue to produce the two-color bezel used to distinguish between the day and night times of the second time zone, particularly the color red which could not be created satisfactorily in ceramic.
It would now seem based on a recent patent issued to Rolex (2024), that the red ceramic bezel bleed has been overcome, indicating a red and black ceramic bezel "coke" may return in the future. In early 2026, ahead of the Watches and Wonders 2026 Conference, the "Pepsi" (red and blue bezel) was a discontinueed mode at Authorised Dealers, and removed from the Rolex and associated dealer websites.
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