Siula Grande

Siula Grande is a mountain in the Huayhuash mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6,344 metres (20,814 ft) high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6,260 m (20,540 ft) high.

In 1985, Siula Grande was climbed by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose to descend the North Ridge, the route of the first ascent and descent in 1936. This was made almost impossible by severe weather which caused Simpson to fall and severely break his leg. All subsequent west face climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled down the face.

Simpson and Yates's ascent was described in Simpson's book Touching the Void. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003 and a play in 2018.

This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.

Siula Chico is a subpeak about 6,260 m (20,540 ft) high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6,000-metre (20,000 ft) col. Mountaineers considered that the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so climbed by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition. Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in May 2007.

According to some researchers the glaciers between Siula Grande and Yerupaja show a broad increase in the number, size and frequency of crevasses, and bergschrunds. As a result, climbing routes used in the 1970s are today considered impracticable.