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Textile stabilization

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Textile stabilization

Textile stabilization is a conservation method for fiber and yarn-based cloth intended to mitigate damage, prevent degradation and preserve structural integrity. Stabilization is part of a broad set of techniques in the field of conservation and restoration of textiles typically undertaken by a specialist or textile conservator. Appropriate treatment is determined through risk assessment and close examination of a textile's characteristics and the nature of the damage. Organic and synthetic fibers become weak due to age, handling, and environmental exposure and display physical deterioration such as fraying, planar distortion, loss, and change in surface character. Treatment involves reinforcing tensile strength and reintegration of parts for aesthetic, functional, and historic preservation. Methods can include stitching, darning, reweaving, and the attachment of supports through overlays and underlays. Hand-sewing follows the mantra of “gently does it” using fine needles, supple yarns, and a light touch. Heavily damaged and fragile fabrics often require stabilization through adhesive consolidation, though this is less common. It is essential that conservators consider physical and chemical compatibility along with future treatability in choosing a stabilization technique.

The fibers that make up textiles impact the types and rate of deterioration. There are four fiber types.

Decisions about appropriate textile stabilization are most effective when the fibers are identified. The primary method of determining a fiber type is through polarized light microscopy. Simple compound microscopes, solubility, and chemical tests can also be employed. The Museum of Fine Arts Boston created a Conservation & Art Materials Encyclopedia Online that includes a fiber reference image library that can aid in fiber identification.

Textiles deteriorate naturally as the fibers age. Managing the rate of deterioration is the goal when caring for textiles. External forces can increase the amount of deterioration in fabrics. In addition to aging, the following agents contribute to decay.

Fabric may be used to provide support for the garment by stabilizing weak sections or by creating a backing or lining for the piece. Darning may be utilized on coarsely-woven fabrics with localized areas of damage.

Translucent or sheer fabrics are used to stabilize the textile without altering its appearance. This is typically done using nylon netting, silk crepeline, or polyester Tetex. Overlay is generally applied to textiles too fragile to withstand localized stitching methods. Overlay materials may be stitched to a more stable backing fabric.

Many variables impact decisions about thread weight, stitching method, and stitch length. Some of these variables include "the size of the loss, desired aesthetic and type of stitching thread." The conservator must weigh the impact of the stitching on the textile. Another consideration is the spacing of the stitches. Higher density stitching is more robust but less elastic and creates more holes in the fabric. Low-density stitching is weaker, is more flexible, and produces fewer holes. Conservation stitching must balance the needs of the textile in question with the impact the process of stitching will have on the object. A best practice is to plan out the intended stitches and utilize any existing stitching holes in the textile. It is essential that all methods of stabilizing the textile be appropriately documented.

Conservation science plays a large role in damage analysis of textiles offering the opportunity to investigate the properties of textile materials less invasively.

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