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Alexander Megos
Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including three 9b+ (5.15c) routes (Perfecto Mundo, Bibliographie, and Change), eight 9b (5.15b) routes (including Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, Move and The Full Journey), and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.
Alexander Megos was born on 12 August 1993 in Erlangen, Germany. His family is partly of Greek descent. Megos speaks rudimentary Greek and often visits Greece.
Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg. There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first 8a (5.13b). Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first 8c (5.14b) by completing Drive-by Shooting, and, in 2011, his first 9a (5.14d) by ascending San Ku Kai.
Megos started competition climbing in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and was the runner-up in the youth World Championships in 2011. In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series. In 2017, he was the runner-up in bouldering at the European Championship and won his first World Cup in the lead climbing discipline in Briançon, France, on 21 July 2018.
In 2017, he won the silver medal for bouldering at both the European Championships in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in the lead climbing discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France, and, one week later, won the gold medal at the Briancon World Cup. Later in that year, he took the bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition. He followed this up with a silver in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he secured a qualifying spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.
Megos has also climbed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has placed second and third on numerous occasions, celebrating in a win in 2018. He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.
On 24 March 2013, Megos ascended Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, completing the world's first 9a onsight. In August 2013, Megos climbed The Red Project 9a (35), Australia's first 9a, and Wheelchair (9a+). Due to the boulder's uncommonly long length, Megos assigned the Wheelchair a sport grading.
Alexander Megos is known for speedily ascending difficult climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes, ranging from 9a+ (5.15a) to 8c+ (5.14c), in Franconian Switzerland, including Modified 9a+ (5.15a), one of the most challenging routes in the region. He also managed a redpoint attempt of the famous Action Directe within two hours, setting a record time. In addition, he is the only person to complete an asccent of Biography also known as Realization 9a+ (5.15a) in Ceüse, France in a single day of effort.
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Alexander Megos
Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including three 9b+ (5.15c) routes (Perfecto Mundo, Bibliographie, and Change), eight 9b (5.15b) routes (including Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, Move and The Full Journey), and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.
Alexander Megos was born on 12 August 1993 in Erlangen, Germany. His family is partly of Greek descent. Megos speaks rudimentary Greek and often visits Greece.
Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg. There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first 8a (5.13b). Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first 8c (5.14b) by completing Drive-by Shooting, and, in 2011, his first 9a (5.14d) by ascending San Ku Kai.
Megos started competition climbing in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and was the runner-up in the youth World Championships in 2011. In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series. In 2017, he was the runner-up in bouldering at the European Championship and won his first World Cup in the lead climbing discipline in Briançon, France, on 21 July 2018.
In 2017, he won the silver medal for bouldering at both the European Championships in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in the lead climbing discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France, and, one week later, won the gold medal at the Briancon World Cup. Later in that year, he took the bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition. He followed this up with a silver in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he secured a qualifying spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.
Megos has also climbed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has placed second and third on numerous occasions, celebrating in a win in 2018. He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.
On 24 March 2013, Megos ascended Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, completing the world's first 9a onsight. In August 2013, Megos climbed The Red Project 9a (35), Australia's first 9a, and Wheelchair (9a+). Due to the boulder's uncommonly long length, Megos assigned the Wheelchair a sport grading.
Alexander Megos is known for speedily ascending difficult climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes, ranging from 9a+ (5.15a) to 8c+ (5.14c), in Franconian Switzerland, including Modified 9a+ (5.15a), one of the most challenging routes in the region. He also managed a redpoint attempt of the famous Action Directe within two hours, setting a record time. In addition, he is the only person to complete an asccent of Biography also known as Realization 9a+ (5.15a) in Ceüse, France in a single day of effort.