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Biba
Biba was a London fashion store of the 1960s and 1970s. Biba was started and run by the Polish-born Barbara Hulanicki and her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon.
After the original company closed in 1975, Biba was relaunched several times, independently of Hulanicki. As of 2024[update] it was a brand of the House of Fraser. The company has been called an early practicer of the fast fashion business model.
Hulanicki worked as a fashion illustrator after studying at Brighton Art College in the late 1950s. In 1961 she married advertising executive Stephen Fitz-Simon and in 1963 they set up a Mail order fashion business selling inexpensive outfits. She named the company Biba's Postal Boutique; Biba was the nickname of her younger sister Biruta.
The company had its first significant success in May 1964 when it offered a pink gingham dress with a hole cut out of the back of the neck with a matching triangular kerchief to readers of the Daily Mirror. The dress had celebrity appeal, as a similar dress had been worn by Brigitte Bardot. By the morning after the dress was advertised in the Daily Mirror, over 4,000 orders had been received. Ultimately, some 17,000 outfits were sold. Following this success, a shop was opened at 87 Abingdon Road in Kensington in September 1964. At around this time Anna Wintour, the future editor-in-chief of Vogue, became an employee of Biba as a 15-year-old. Another teenage employee was the future actress Madeline Smith. The artist, novelist and journalist Molly Parkin made hats for Biba, and the actress Katy Manning worked for the company as a model.
In 1966, Biba moved to larger premises at 19-21 Kensington Church Street while continuing to operate a successful mail-order arm. Also in that year, Biba was described by Time as "The most in-shop for gear". The shop had many celebrities among its customers but its clothing was at a low price point. Cutting-edge fashion had previously been confined to the wealthy but Biba made it affordable to a large number of consumers. Effort was put into the ambience of the shops. They used ornate, Victorian antique furniture, were dimly lit and played loud pop music. The staff resembled the customers in age and appearance, typically women under the age of 25.
The larger shop offered the space for the company to expand into cosmetics. These were supplied by an East Grinstead factory that manufactured products for Revlon. Hulanicki was interested in producing cosmetics in a large range of new, bright colours, that would enable her customers to create a complete "Biba look". This included items such as green lipstick that were extremely unusual for the time. The company was also the first to sell cosmetics for Black skin and for men. The cosmetics range was very successful and was being sold in 30 countries within two years.
By 1969, the shop's weekly takings were around £10,000 (£145,300 in 2025). The decision was made to move to larger site, 120 Kensington High Street. This was a former shop of the collapsed Cyril Lord carpet company and was nine times larger than the Kensington Church Street premises. This expansion was funded by selling a 75% stake in the business to the fashion retailer Dorothy Perkins and clothing manufacturer Dennis Day Ltd. Biba's Over-the-knee boots were a notably popular item at this time. They were made in suede or canvas in many different colours, and were so sought-after that queues would form outside the store when a delivery was due.
In 1971, The Angry Brigade, a far-left terrorist group, were planning to bomb Biba and other targets as part of their ongoing bombing campaign. However, members of the group were arrested and the plans discovered before this took place. In 1972, a Biba dress was chosen as a Dress of the Year, that best represented that year's fashion.
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Biba
Biba was a London fashion store of the 1960s and 1970s. Biba was started and run by the Polish-born Barbara Hulanicki and her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon.
After the original company closed in 1975, Biba was relaunched several times, independently of Hulanicki. As of 2024[update] it was a brand of the House of Fraser. The company has been called an early practicer of the fast fashion business model.
Hulanicki worked as a fashion illustrator after studying at Brighton Art College in the late 1950s. In 1961 she married advertising executive Stephen Fitz-Simon and in 1963 they set up a Mail order fashion business selling inexpensive outfits. She named the company Biba's Postal Boutique; Biba was the nickname of her younger sister Biruta.
The company had its first significant success in May 1964 when it offered a pink gingham dress with a hole cut out of the back of the neck with a matching triangular kerchief to readers of the Daily Mirror. The dress had celebrity appeal, as a similar dress had been worn by Brigitte Bardot. By the morning after the dress was advertised in the Daily Mirror, over 4,000 orders had been received. Ultimately, some 17,000 outfits were sold. Following this success, a shop was opened at 87 Abingdon Road in Kensington in September 1964. At around this time Anna Wintour, the future editor-in-chief of Vogue, became an employee of Biba as a 15-year-old. Another teenage employee was the future actress Madeline Smith. The artist, novelist and journalist Molly Parkin made hats for Biba, and the actress Katy Manning worked for the company as a model.
In 1966, Biba moved to larger premises at 19-21 Kensington Church Street while continuing to operate a successful mail-order arm. Also in that year, Biba was described by Time as "The most in-shop for gear". The shop had many celebrities among its customers but its clothing was at a low price point. Cutting-edge fashion had previously been confined to the wealthy but Biba made it affordable to a large number of consumers. Effort was put into the ambience of the shops. They used ornate, Victorian antique furniture, were dimly lit and played loud pop music. The staff resembled the customers in age and appearance, typically women under the age of 25.
The larger shop offered the space for the company to expand into cosmetics. These were supplied by an East Grinstead factory that manufactured products for Revlon. Hulanicki was interested in producing cosmetics in a large range of new, bright colours, that would enable her customers to create a complete "Biba look". This included items such as green lipstick that were extremely unusual for the time. The company was also the first to sell cosmetics for Black skin and for men. The cosmetics range was very successful and was being sold in 30 countries within two years.
By 1969, the shop's weekly takings were around £10,000 (£145,300 in 2025). The decision was made to move to larger site, 120 Kensington High Street. This was a former shop of the collapsed Cyril Lord carpet company and was nine times larger than the Kensington Church Street premises. This expansion was funded by selling a 75% stake in the business to the fashion retailer Dorothy Perkins and clothing manufacturer Dennis Day Ltd. Biba's Over-the-knee boots were a notably popular item at this time. They were made in suede or canvas in many different colours, and were so sought-after that queues would form outside the store when a delivery was due.
In 1971, The Angry Brigade, a far-left terrorist group, were planning to bomb Biba and other targets as part of their ongoing bombing campaign. However, members of the group were arrested and the plans discovered before this took place. In 1972, a Biba dress was chosen as a Dress of the Year, that best represented that year's fashion.