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Big wave surfing
Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which surfers paddle into, or are towed into, waves that are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or towboards. The size of the board needed to successfully surf these waves varies by the size of the wave, as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach it. A larger, longer board enables a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed.
In 1992, big wave surfers such as Buzzy Kerbox, Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross-over variation called tow-in surfing. While many riders still participate in both activities, they remain very distinct. Tow-in surfing involves being towed in to big waves by jet ski, creating the speed needed to successfully ride them. Tow-in surfing also revolutionized board size, allowing surfers to trade in their unwieldy 12 ft. boards in favor of light, 7 ft boards that enabled more speed and easier maneuverability in waves over 30 ft (10 m). By the end of the 1990s, tow-in surfing meant that surfers could ride waves exceeding 50 ft (15 m).
In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet (6.2 m to 15.5 m) below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. Surfers may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20 to 50 feet can be strong enough to rupture human eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or the ocean floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.
One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult, and surfers must be prepared to cope with these situations.
A major theme of disagreement among big-wave surfers is whether to attach a leash to the surfboard. In many instances, a leash can do more harm than good to a surfer,[citation needed] catching and holding them underwater and diminishing their opportunities to fight towards the surface. Other surfers, however, depend on the leash. Today, tow-in surfboards are equipped with foot holds (like those found on windsurfs) instead of leashes, in order to provide some security to the surfer without generating safety hazards whilst the surfer is underwater.
These hazards have killed several big-wave surfers. Some of the most notable are Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks on 23 December 1994; Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay; Todd Chesser, who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on 14 February 1997; Peter Davi, who died at Ghost Trees on 4 December 2007; Sion Milosky, who died surfing Mavericks on 16 March 2011; and Kirk Passmore, who died at Alligator Rock on 12 November 2013.
On 18 January 2010 Danilo Couto and Marcio Freire became the first to surf Jaws Peahi paddling, surfing the wave to the left side. They did not have jetski support and used only their shorts and their surfboards. They were the only ones to surf Jaws paddling until 4 January 2012, when it was surfed to the right side for the first time.
On 4 January 2012, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Kohl Christensen, Jeff Rowley, Dave Wassel, Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, Carlos Burle, Nate Fletcher, Garrett McNamara, Kai Barger, North Shore locals and other of the best big-wave surfers in the world invaded the Hawaiian Islands for a historic day of surfing. Surfers had to catch and survive the wave at Jaws Peahi, on the north shore of Maui, without the use of a jet ski.
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Big wave surfing
Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which surfers paddle into, or are towed into, waves that are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or towboards. The size of the board needed to successfully surf these waves varies by the size of the wave, as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach it. A larger, longer board enables a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed.
In 1992, big wave surfers such as Buzzy Kerbox, Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross-over variation called tow-in surfing. While many riders still participate in both activities, they remain very distinct. Tow-in surfing involves being towed in to big waves by jet ski, creating the speed needed to successfully ride them. Tow-in surfing also revolutionized board size, allowing surfers to trade in their unwieldy 12 ft. boards in favor of light, 7 ft boards that enabled more speed and easier maneuverability in waves over 30 ft (10 m). By the end of the 1990s, tow-in surfing meant that surfers could ride waves exceeding 50 ft (15 m).
In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet (6.2 m to 15.5 m) below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. Surfers may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20 to 50 feet can be strong enough to rupture human eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or the ocean floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.
One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult, and surfers must be prepared to cope with these situations.
A major theme of disagreement among big-wave surfers is whether to attach a leash to the surfboard. In many instances, a leash can do more harm than good to a surfer,[citation needed] catching and holding them underwater and diminishing their opportunities to fight towards the surface. Other surfers, however, depend on the leash. Today, tow-in surfboards are equipped with foot holds (like those found on windsurfs) instead of leashes, in order to provide some security to the surfer without generating safety hazards whilst the surfer is underwater.
These hazards have killed several big-wave surfers. Some of the most notable are Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks on 23 December 1994; Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay; Todd Chesser, who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on 14 February 1997; Peter Davi, who died at Ghost Trees on 4 December 2007; Sion Milosky, who died surfing Mavericks on 16 March 2011; and Kirk Passmore, who died at Alligator Rock on 12 November 2013.
On 18 January 2010 Danilo Couto and Marcio Freire became the first to surf Jaws Peahi paddling, surfing the wave to the left side. They did not have jetski support and used only their shorts and their surfboards. They were the only ones to surf Jaws paddling until 4 January 2012, when it was surfed to the right side for the first time.
On 4 January 2012, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Kohl Christensen, Jeff Rowley, Dave Wassel, Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, Carlos Burle, Nate Fletcher, Garrett McNamara, Kai Barger, North Shore locals and other of the best big-wave surfers in the world invaded the Hawaiian Islands for a historic day of surfing. Surfers had to catch and survive the wave at Jaws Peahi, on the north shore of Maui, without the use of a jet ski.