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Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton
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Laird John Hamilton (né Zerfas; born March 2, 1964[1]) is an American big-wave surfer, co-inventor of tow-in surfing, and an occasional fashion and action-sports model and actor.[2] He is married to Gabrielle Reece, a former professional volleyball player, television personality, and model.

Key Information

Early life

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Laird was born Laird John Zerfas in San Francisco on March 2, 1964, in an experimental salt-water sphere at UCSF Medical Center designed to ease the mother's labor.[3] His biological father, L. G. Zerfas, immigrated from Greece to California and left the family before his son’s first birthday.[4] While he was an infant, Laird and his mother, Joann (née Zyirek), moved to Hawaii. In 1967, while still a young boy living on Oahu, Laird met 1960s surfer William Stuart "Bill" Hamilton, a bachelor at the time, on Pūpūkea beach on the North Shore. Bill Hamilton was a surfboard shaper and glasser on Oahu in the 1960s and 1970s and owned a small business handmaking custom, high-performance surfboards for the Oahu North Shore big wave riders of the era. The two became immediate companions. The young Laird invited Bill Hamilton home to meet his mother. Bill Hamilton married Laird's then-single mother, becoming Laird's adoptive father.[5]

The family later moved to a remote valley on Kauaʻi island. Joann and Bill had a second son, Lyon, Laird's half-brother, who also became a surfer. Laird's mother died of a brain aneurysm in 1997.[6]

Hamilton had a reputation for an aggressive demeanor around others of his age. The role of the outsider profoundly affected Laird through to his teen years and early adult life. He became used to this role and was uncomfortable being in the center of anything. He was also known for his physical and mental toughness.[7]

Modeling

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When he was 16, Hamilton left the eleventh grade at Kapaa High School to pursue a modeling career and work in construction.[8] At 17, Hamilton was discovered on a beach in Kauaʻi by a photographer from the Italian Men's Vogue magazine L'Uomo Vogue which landed him a modeling contract and later a 1983 photo shoot with the actress Brooke Shields.[5][9] Hamilton continued to do occasional men's action sportswear print modeling.

In 2008 Hamilton announced his own "Wonderwall" line of affordable clothing, sold through Steve & Barry's[10] until that retailer shut down at the end of January 2009. He has had long-time sponsorship from the French beachwear company Oxbow surfwear.[11]

Surfing career

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1980s

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Pipeline on the north shore of Oahu where Hamilton grew up

By the age of 17, Hamilton was an accomplished surfer and could have left modeling to pursue a career on surfing's World Championship Tour. However, competitive surfing and contests never appealed to Hamilton, who had watched his father Bill endure the competitive surfing contest politics and the random luck of the waves in organized championship surfing events. Bill Hamilton regarded surfing more as a work of art, rather than based chiefly on wave-by-wave ride performance scored by judges.

In the 1987 movie North Shore, Hamilton played the violent, antagonistic role of Lance Burkhart. Despite further success in modeling during the 1980s, Hamilton, with his professional surfing upbringing, always intended a life of surfing, but continued to reject the professional contest circuit.

In 1989 Laird featured in windsurfing movie Moving Target alongside Fred Haywood.[12]

1990s

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An early attempt at media recognition was his quest to be the first surfer to complete a 360 degree loop while strapped to his board. The attempt was chronicled in Greg Stump's 1990 ski film, Groove - Requiem in the key of Ski. In the early 1990s, Hamilton, along with a small group of friends collectively dubbed the "Strapped Crew" because their feet were strapped to their boards, pushed the boundaries of surfing at Jaws surf break off the north central coast of Maui. The Strapped Crew tackled bigger waves featuring stunts. Stunts included: launching 30-foot (9.1 m) jumps on sailboards, then mating the boards to paragliders to experiment with some of the earliest kiteboards.[13]

In late 1992, Hamilton with two of his close friends, big wave riders Darrick Doerner and Buzzy Kerbox (also an occasional men's fashion model; Hamilton and Kerbox later lost their friendship over a property disagreement),[6] started using inflatable boats to tow one another into waves which were too big to catch under paddle power alone. This innovation is chronicled in the documentary film, Riding Giants.[7] The technique would later be modified to use personal water craft and become a popular innovation. Tow-in surfing, as it became known, pushed the confinements and possibilities of big wave surfing to a new level. Although met with mixed reactions from the surfing community, some of whom felt that it was cheating and polluting, Hamilton explained that tow-in surfing was the only way to catch the monstrous sized waves. Using tow-in surfing methods, Hamilton learned how to survive 70-foot (21 m) waves and carving arcs across walls of water.[citation needed]

Hamilton appeared as Kevin Costner's stunt double during the 1995 filming of Waterworld. Reportedly, Hamilton was nearly lost at sea when his Kawasaki Jet Ski ran out of fuel during a squall. He then drifted for hours before being rescued by Coast Guard off the Island of Maui. Hamilton commuted daily to the enclosed set between Maui and the Big Island by jet ski.

Hamilton met women's professional volleyball player and New York fashion model Gabrielle Reece in Maui in 1995 after a television interview by Reece, who was hosting the show 'The Extremists'.[14] People magazine named him one of the 50 Most Beautiful People in the World the following year, and he pushed for and took from his future wife the correspondent position for the syndicated cable series 'The Extremists'.[9] They later married on November 30, 1997. In 1989 Reece had been named by Elle magazine as one of the Five Most Beautiful Women in the World.[citation needed]

By the late 1990s, Hamilton continued windsurfing, waterskiing and kitesurfing. In 1996 Hamilton and Manu Bertin were instrumental in demonstrating and popularizing kitesurfing off the Hawaiian coast of Maui. In 1999 Hamilton sailed his windsurfer between the Hawaiian islands of Oahu and Kauaʻi, some fifty miles away, in just under six hours.[citation needed]

Hamilton has also experimented with the foilboard, an innovative surfboard which incorporates hydrofoil technology allowing a higher degree of precision and effectiveness of aerial techniques in the water.[15][16] He has become a proponent of Stand up paddle surfing, an ancient Hawaiian technique that requires a longboard and a long-handled paddle, as well as considerable skill, strength and agility. Purist surfers have blasted him for this, but Hamilton calls it a return to the traditional Hawaiian way of surfing, as practiced by King Kamehameha I and his queen Kaʻahumanu almost three hundred years ago.

Ride at Teahupoʻo Reef[neutrality is disputed]

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Hamilton has a family home in Maui, Hawaii and another in Malibu, California

Hamilton's drop into Tahiti's Teahupoʻo break on the morning of August 17, 2000 firmly established him in the recorded history of surfing. Teahupoʻo is a particularly hazardous shallow-water reef break on the southeast coast of the Pacific Island of Tahiti.[17]

On that day, with a larger than normal ocean swell, Darrick Doerner piloted the watercraft, towing Hamilton. Pulling in and releasing the tow rope, Hamilton drove down into the well of the wave's enormous tunnel vortex, in full view of boat-based photographers' and videographers' cameras. With his signature artistic flair, Hamilton continued deeply carving water, emerging back over the wave's shoulder. A still photograph of him riding the wave made the cover of Surfer magazine, with the caption: "oh my god..."[18] The wave became known as "the heaviest ever ridden".[17]

Laird on a personal watercraft at Teahupoʻo

In the filmed coverage of this event in the motion picture Riding Giants, Doerner said "I towed him onto this wave. And it was to the point where I almost said 'Don't let go of the rope,' and when I looked back he was gone."[19]

Laird said: “That was all about faith. Believing I could. That wave in Teahupo’o was a wave we didn’t know existed. We hadn’t seen waves like that. In my world, when I was a kid, I went to every surf movie, I knew all of the best surfers in the world, I was in the middle of all it… but a wave like that did not exist, and the ability to ride that wave in any form didn’t exist either.[20]"

Hamilton is regarded by surfing historians as the "all time best of the best" at big wave surfing, regularly surfing swells of 35 feet (11 m) tall, and moving at speeds in excess of 30 miles (48 km) an hour and successfully riding other waves of up to 70 feet (21 m) high, at up to 50 mph (80 km/h).[citation needed] Hamilton prefers tow-in surfing the giant waves of Peʻahi reef (known as the Jaws surf break) on the north central shore of the Island of Maui.

2000s

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On December 3, 2007, when Brett Lickle was towing Hamilton into a wave on the Maui north shore, called "Egypt", a wave knocked Lickle from the watercraft. The fin sliced Lickle, causing him to bleed into the sea, which he feared would attract sharks. Hamilton swam to recover the watercraft, found Lickle in the surf, fashioned his swimsuit into a cloth tourniquet, and applied it to Lickle to save his life. Hamilton then piloted the watercraft back to a landing, where Lickle was immediately taken to a hospital for treatment. Brett recalled that day for Chris Dixon that Brett towed Laird into a wave that was in his opinion "better than 10 stories tall" and the biggest wave ever ridden. That means over 100 feet tall. It was not photographed and therefore not officially recognized by the XXL judges.[21]

Hamilton in 2010

In February 2008 Hamilton joined the board of directors of H2O Audio, a watersports music company in San Diego. He had used H2O Audio products on many of his long distance paddling endeavors before joining the company.[22] Later in 2008 he published a book which he describes as not an autobiography, but discussing his philosophy of life.[23]

On August 27, 2014, Hamilton was in the news again for riding waves and boards which few others dared. Hurricane Marie caused Southern California to be hit with a swell of extreme size—triple over head (and larger) waves could be found from San Diego to Los Angeles, including Laird's home break at Malibu. Late in the day, on a stand-up paddle board, Hamilton dropped into one of the largest waves of the day and proceeded to "shoot" the Malibu beach pier at an extremely high speed. [24]

Despite being one of the best known surfers since the time of Duke Kahanamoku, the matured Hamilton avoids self-promotion. He serves as an ambassador of surfing and watersports and occasional lifeguard to other tow-in surfers.

Hamilton is also an environmental activist. He joined a protest in Malibu against a proposed plant, which would affect the quality of the local waters. Other celebrities attended the event, including Pierce Brosnan, Halle Berry and Ted Danson.

In April 2018, Laird made worldwide news for voluntarily rescuing people around Kauaʻi, Hawaii from devastating, record-breaking storms that were causing flooding. Laird, who lives on the island and used his own boat, has assisted many families in evacuating the island from the flooding, and is being hailed a hero.[25]

Laird Hamilton is a co-founder and co-creator of XPT Life or Extreme Performance Training, along with his wife, Gabrielle Reece.[26]

Laird Hamilton, along with Paul Hodge and Gabrielle Reece, co-founded Laird Superfood in 2015. In September 2020 the company went public on the NYSE under the id LSF.

Personal life

[edit]

Hamilton has a daughter with his first wife, big-wave surfer and clothing designer Maria Souza.[27]

Hamilton married volleyball player and fashion model Gabrielle Reece in 1997. They have two daughters together. Hamilton and his family split their time between residences in Kauaʻi, Hawaii, and Malibu, California.[28] Hamilton and Reece have been described as part of the "Malibu Mob", a celebrity group in the same vein as the Brat Pack. Other Malibu Mob members include Chris Chelios, John Cusack, Kelsey Grammer, John C. McGinley, Tony Danza, Justin Long, Ed O'Neill, John McEnroe, and formerly Max Wright.[29][30]

Other media appearances

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Hamilton was featured in American Express credit card television commercials; an early 2000s commercial in the series "Hi, you probably wouldn't recognize my name . . . " and more recently in the American Express "My life, my card" commercial series.[31][32]

Hamilton was a central figure in the 2004 documentary Riding Giants about giant wave surfing; and the opening sequence of the 2002 James Bond movie Die Another Day, as Pierce Brosnan's big-wave surfing double (shared with Dave Kalama). He appeared in Waterworld, as Kevin Costner's stunt double in numerous water scenes.[33]

In October 2006, Hamilton and Dave Kalama biked and paddled the entire Hawaiian Island chain—more than 450 miles—in a week. The feat was featured on Don King's film, A Beautiful Son, in support of autistic people.[34] He appeared on the cover of the Men's Journal April 2006 issue.[35]

In 2007, Hamilton, along with his wife Gabrielle Reece, appeared in the ABC reality television series Fast Cars and Superstars: The Gillette Young Guns Celebrity Race, featuring a dozen celebrities in a stock car racing competition.[36] In the first round of competition, Hamilton matched up against tennis star Serena Williams and former NFL quarterback John Elway. Hamilton was eliminated in episode 5.

He appeared in the Sundance Channel television show Iconoclasts with Eddie Vedder from the popular American rock band Pearl Jam.[37]

Footage of Hamilton is used on the video for Dayvan Cowboy from Boards of Canada. In 2003, he was featured in Dana Brown's surf documentary Step Into Liquid. On January 13, 2010, Hamilton and wife Reece appeared as themselves on the episode "Gary Feels Tom Slipping Away" of the CBS television series Gary Unmarried.

He was a special guest star as himself in the animated television show Phineas and Ferb. He was also interviewed as part of the Australian documentary Bra Boys: Blood is Thicker than Water.

Hamilton had a minor role as Troy in The Descendants.

Hamilton also was the Celebrity on the Volvo Ocean Race Boat Puma Powered by Berg. He did a spectacular exit off the boat by diving off it as it was at full speed.

In February 2012, Hamilton was featured in Oprah Winfrey Network (OWN)'s production of Oprah Presents Master Class, in which he shared his life and life philosophies with the audience.

Hamilton appeared in the Season 11 episode of Hell's Kitchen, where he taught the red team how to wakeboard as part of their team challenge win.

In the 2015 film Point Break, Hamilton played a surf vagabond tossing a tow rope to Utah, played by Luke Bracey.[38]

A chapter about Hamilton appears in Scott Carney's New York Times bestselling book What Doesn't Kill Us.

Works

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  • Laird Hamilton (2010) [2008]. Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, And, of Course, Surfing. Rodale Books. ISBN 978-1-60961-102-6.
  • Hamilton, Laird (2019). Liferider: Heart, Body, Soul, and Life Beyond the Ocean. Rodale Press. ISBN 9781635652901.

Appeared on the television show FitTVs "Insider Training" with his wife

Notes

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References

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Further reading

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[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
Laird John Hamilton (born Laird John Zerfas; March 2, 1964) is an American big-wave surfer and innovator in extreme water sports, widely recognized as a co-inventor of , a technique that uses to propel surfers into massive waves too steep and fast to paddle into unaided. Born in , , he relocated to as an infant with his mother and was adopted by Bill Hamilton, immersing him in the North Shore surfing culture of Oahu and from an early age. Hamilton's career-defining achievements include pioneering tow-in sessions at Peʻahi (Jaws) on in the alongside collaborators like Darrick Doerner and Dave Kalama, which unlocked unprecedented wave sizes and speeds, fundamentally advancing big-wave surfing. His 2000 ride on the "Millennium Wave" at , —a barreling swell estimated at 50-60 feet—stands as one of the most documented and influential big-wave performances, captured in footage that reshaped perceptions of wave-riding limits. As a versatile waterman, Hamilton has extended his influence through innovations in stand-up paddleboarding, foilboarding, and equipment design, while maintaining an active profile into his sixties via fitness advocacy, nutritional products, and media appearances. His approach emphasizes relentless boundary-pushing and cross-training resilience, eschewing formal competitions in favor of personal mastery and exploratory feats.

Early Life

Childhood and Family Background

Laird Hamilton was born Laird John Zerfas on March 2, 1964, in , . His biological father departed the family prior to Hamilton's first birthday, leaving his mother, Joann Zyirek, to raise him as a . Zyirek, who had been involved in , relocated with her infant son to Oahu, , when Hamilton was approximately one year old, settling initially on the North Shore. As a young child on Oahu, Hamilton encountered Bill Hamilton, a professional surfer more than a decade his senior, while watching him ride waves at Ehukai Beach; Hamilton, then around three years old, reportedly invited the older man home to meet his mother. Bill Hamilton, aged 17 at the time of their marriage to Zyirek, became Hamilton's adoptive father and introduced stability to the family, which later included a younger half-brother, Lyon. The couple divorced after roughly ten years, but Bill Hamilton remained a significant influence. The family eventually relocated to a remote valley on Kauai, where Hamilton grew up amid a predominantly Native Hawaiian community as one of the few white children, often facing physical confrontations and that shaped his resilient disposition. His mother's independent and adventurous ethos contributed to an upbringing emphasizing self-reliance, though it was marked by periods of instability following the .

Entry into Surfing

Hamilton, born Laird John Zerfas on March 2, 1964, in , , was relocated by his mother, JoAnn Zyrik Zerfas, to the North Shore of Oahu, , before he reached school age, immersing him in a surfing-centric environment. His biological father had abandoned the family when Laird was an infant, leaving JoAnn as a single mother. As a , estimated at age 2 to 4, Hamilton began on the North Shore beaches, an activity during which he encountered Bill Hamilton, a renowned 1960s longboard stylist and big-wave pioneer who was walking the beach. This chance meeting prompted the young to invite Bill to meet his mother, leading to their and Bill's of Laird, who took his stepfather's surname. Bill, an accomplished surfer and board shaper, became a pivotal mentor, guiding Laird's early development in ocean sports. Growing up amid the local Hawaiian surf community on Oahu's North Shore—a globally iconic wave zone—Hamilton transitioned from to stand-up under Bill's tutelage and the influence of surf legends in the area. This core environment fostered his foundational skills, with the North Shore's challenging conditions shaping his aggressive approach from the outset. By his early teens, he was charging significant waves, reflecting the rapid progression enabled by his adoptive family's expertise and proximity to premier surf breaks.

Early Modeling and Public Exposure

At the age of 16 in 1980, Hamilton dropped out of high school to pursue a modeling career alongside work. The following year, at 17, he was discovered on a beach in Kauai by a scouting for an Italian men's , marking his entry into professional modeling. An older surfer, , introduced Hamilton to the modeling industry, facilitating early opportunities. By 1983, Hamilton appeared in a prominent photoshoot directed by Bruce Weber, posing with for Life magazine in , , which provided significant mainstream visibility beyond circles. He also modeled for brands such as during this period. These modeling endeavors offered Hamilton initial public exposure in fashion and print media during his late teens, though he largely set them aside by age 17 to compete on the 1981 World Championship tour. This early visibility contrasted with his developing focus on competitive and big-wave , bridging his athletic pursuits with broader commercial recognition.

Innovations in Surfing

Pioneering Tow-In Surfing

In the early 1990s, Laird Hamilton, along with and Darrick Doerner, experimented with towing techniques to access waves beyond the limits of traditional paddle-in , which required surfers to generate sufficient speed manually. Their initial breakthrough occurred during the winter of 1992 at Backyards on Oahu's North Shore, where the trio used an inflatable Zodiac boat to tow into 15- to 20-foot faces, demonstrating the feasibility of mechanical propulsion for enhanced wave entry speed and positioning. This approach evolved rapidly with the adoption of personal watercraft, such as jet skis, enabling precise control and higher velocities—up to 30 miles per hour—necessary for dropping into steeper, faster-breaking giants that paddle power could not reach. By 1994, Hamilton and collaborators, including Dave Kalama, conducted the first successful tow-in sessions at Pe'ahi (Jaws) on , a break known for waves exceeding 50 feet, marking a pivotal shift in big-wave exploration. These sessions required custom adaptations, including shorter, thicker surfboards (typically 5 to 6 feet long) with foot straps for stability at high speeds and during re-entries, contrasting with the longer paddle boards of the era. The pioneering efforts addressed causal limitations in wave accessibility: paddle surfing's capped entry speeds at around 15-20 mph, insufficient for waves with takeoff angles over 45 degrees or periods under 15 seconds, whereas allowed surfers to harness engine power for optimal drop-ins and barrel rides. Hamilton's role extended to refining jet ski handling, where one rider while another served as a operator, mitigating risks like hold-downs in piles up to 20 feet deep. This , initially met with from traditionalists, fundamentally expanded the sport's boundaries, enabling routine of 60- to 80-foot faces previously deemed unridable.

Advancements in Stand-Up Paddleboarding and Hydrofoiling

Hamilton collaborated with Dave Kalama in the mid-1990s to revive stand-up paddleboarding by standing on 12-foot longboards and using outrigger-style paddles to catch waves, adapting an ancient Hawaiian practice for modern big-wave access and training on flat conditions. This method enabled surfers to position farther offshore and paddle into swells earlier than prone techniques allowed, enhancing wave-catching efficiency in low-wind scenarios. In September 2002, Hamilton demonstrated SUP during a six-foot swell in , followed by a widely circulated photograph of him paddling at , which accelerated the sport's global popularity beyond . He contributed to board design innovations, producing an early model measuring 12 feet long and 33 inches wide for improved stability and glide during paddling and wave entry. Later collaborations, such as with designer Kohlberg, refined SUP shapes for racing and touring, including 12'6" and 14'0" lengths optimized for speed and displacement hulls. Hamilton advanced SUP techniques by integrating aerial maneuvers and trick compilations, as seen in sessions at , Kauai, expanding its application from utility to performance . In the early , Hamilton experimented with attaching hydrofoils to surfboards, creating a lift mechanism that elevates the board above the water to minimize drag and enable smoother transitions on steep faces of massive waves. This foilboarding approach, initially tested at Pe'ahi (Jaws) with custom prototypes, allowed access to bigger, faster lines previously limited by surface and board speed. By reducing hydrodynamic resistance through foil lift, Hamilton's hydrofoiling innovations facilitated rides at extreme breaks, including a 2020 session at , where the setup supported high-speed carving on 50-foot-plus walls. He described foiling as an evolutionary progression in , emphasizing its role in connecting riders directly to wave energy with enhanced glide and minimal splash. These developments built on prior foil concepts but prioritized big-wave applicability, influencing subsequent adaptations in prone, SUP, and wind-powered variants.

Other Equipment and Technique Developments

Hamilton collaborated with shapers to refine constructions using denser foam cores and added tail weights, such as lead inserts, to enhance grip and stability on steep, high-speed faces during big wave descents, allowing for smaller boards that maintained control without excessive volume. These modifications prioritized hold over traditional paddle-in bulk, influencing designs for extreme conditions where conventional long guns proved unwieldy. He championed wood-core boards for big wave applications, arguing their natural damping properties absorb shocks and vibrations superior to or foam alternatives, reducing fatigue and injury risk on waves exceeding 50 feet. Hamilton tested these in real-world scenarios, noting wood's artisanal responsiveness enables surfers to "feel" the water better, a quality lost in mass-produced synthetics. In technique evolution, Hamilton emphasized iterative fin and material tweaks for incremental performance gains, focusing on setups that balance speed with directional control under load, as explored in early 2000s prototypes. This approach extended to body-armor integrations, where he adopted early flotation aids to maintain post-wipeout, predating widespread vests and enabling repeated drops in hazardous breaks.

Professional Surfing Career

1980s Breakthroughs

In the early 1980s, shortly after turning 20, Hamilton and fellow surfer Buzzy Kerbox began informal experiments with boat towing to access waves, representing an initial foray into power-assisted surfing that foreshadowed later innovations in big-wave riding. Forgoing the competitive circuit despite his prodigious talent—evident by age 17—Hamilton focused on performance surfing, particularly big waves, earning acclaim as the preeminent big-wave rider of the decade without contest victories. His casting as the antagonistic champion surfer Lance Burkhart in the 1987 film North Shore, filmed on location at Oʻahu's North Shore with authentic sequences, amplified his visibility and reinforced his image as a dominant, rule-bending figure in professional . These endeavors, blending raw skill with media exposure, distinguished Hamilton from traditional pros, prioritizing exploratory big-wave pursuits over judged events and setting the stage for his non-conformist career trajectory.

1990s Major Rides and Risks

In the early 1990s, Hamilton collaborated with fellow watermen and Darrick Doerner to pioneer , initially experimenting during the winter of 1992 at Backyards on Oahu's [North Shore](/page/North Shore). Using a Zodiac for , they towed into 15- to 20-foot faces at speeds exceeding traditional paddling capabilities, marking a departure from paddle-in methods that limited access to steeper, faster-breaking waves. This technique, adapted from and powered watercraft, enabled surfers to harness jet skis or boats for rapid acceleration, fundamentally expanding the scope of big-wave riding. By 1994, Hamilton and his crew shifted focus to Pe'ahi (commonly known as Jaws) on Maui's north shore, conducting the first successful tow-in sessions there amid swells reaching 40 to 50 feet. These rides involved strapping into foot bindings on specialized boards, allowing control at velocities up to 30-40 miles per hour while dropping into cavernous, unridden sections of the reef break. The innovation transformed Pe'ahi from an occasional paddle spot into a venue for unprecedented wave sizes, with Hamilton routinely navigating hollow barrels and vertical faces that demanded precise timing to avoid catastrophic burial under collapsing lips. The risks inherent in these 1990s endeavors were extreme, as the nascent tow-in method lacked established safety protocols, exposing participants to amplified dangers from high-speed ejections, jet ski collisions, and equipment malfunctions in remote, heavy seas. Wipeouts at such velocities could result in severe , spinal injuries, or , compounded by the absence of immediate infrastructure and the physical toll of repeated high-impact sessions. Hamilton's group mitigated some hazards through mutual jet ski rescues and reinforced boards, but the exploratory nature often led to near-misses, underscoring the causal trade-offs of pushing wave size limits without prior on human tolerance. No fatalities occurred in their core sessions, yet the psychological and physiological strain— including chronic bruising and stress—highlighted the uncharted perils of mechanized big-wave access.

2000s and Ongoing Achievements

On August 17, 2000, Hamilton rode what became known as the "Millennium Wave" at , , a slab of water estimated at 40-50 feet on the face with unprecedented thickness and velocity, utilizing tow-in techniques he helped pioneer to drop into a wave that redefined big-wave limits. This ride, captured on film, is widely regarded as one of the heaviest and most significant single waves ever successfully navigated, demonstrating precise positioning and control amid extreme reef exposure. In January 2002, Hamilton joined an expedition to , a remote 100 miles off , where he and collaborators like and Darrick Doerner tackled swells producing faces up to 60-70 feet, further validating tow-in surfing's efficacy for accessing previously unrideable offshore breaks. These sessions, documented in films such as , highlighted the logistical challenges and risks of pursuing such isolated, high-consequence waves. Throughout the and into the , Hamilton maintained his preeminence in big-wave arenas like Pe'ahi (Jaws) on , consistently riding 50-plus-foot faces during major swells, often employing evolving equipment adaptations for speed and stability. Into the 2020s, at age 60, he continues selective high-stakes outings, prioritizing calculated risks over volume, as evidenced by ongoing media portrayals of his involvement in extreme ocean conditions that affirm his enduring physical and technical prowess.

Training Regimen and Philosophy

Physical Preparation Methods

Laird Hamilton's physical preparation methods emphasize that replicates the demands of big-wave , focusing on strength, , balance, and breath control through his co-developed XPT (Extreme Performance Training) system. This approach integrates land-based , high-intensity circuits, aquatic exercises, and ocean-specific activities to build explosive power and resilience, often conducted daily during the big swell season from November to March. Sessions typically alternate 90-minute functional strength workouts with innovative pool training, treating the latter as a foundational warm-up for more intense efforts. Land-based training includes primal circuits and targeted strength exercises to enhance surfing-specific power. Hamilton advocates short, efficient five-minute workouts for busy schedules, such as the Hindu Squat Countdown—squatting low with fingertips brushing the ground, exploding upward, and performing sets of 20, 15, 10, and 5 reps with 10-second rests—or Power Holds combining 30-second wall sits and planks repeated for duration. Other circuits feature 10 reps each of jumping lunges, triangle pushups (thumbs and forefingers forming a under the chest), and crunches, repeated as many times as possible, or speed intervals of one-minute burpees, jumping jacks, mountain climbers, and sprints in place with brief rests. For surfing strength, he prioritizes leg building via biking, sand running on dunes, or ; practicing crossover board sports like or for balance; training the weak side to achieve ; and core-focused movements. Aquatic preparation leverages pool environments to simulate underwater hold-downs and paddling fatigue, incorporating XPT's underwater , breath-hold drills, and with fins to develop paddling muscles and water comfort. These sessions build alongside physical capacity, with Hamilton running on the pool bottom while holding weights or performing resistance exercises submerged. At age 58, he maintains heavy emphasis on as a core element to sustain readiness for demanding waves without seasonal constraints. Ocean training forms the capstone, with multi-hour sessions of foilboarding (up to five hours yielding 20+ two-to-three-minute rides), , or high-intensity on rivers for 40+ minutes to hone rhythm, endurance, and explosive paddling. Hamilton integrates breath mastery, such as XPT Performance Breathing techniques, to extend endurance under stress, ensuring preparation aligns with real-world surfing variables like uneven swells and prolonged exertion.

Diet, Recovery, and Longevity Principles

Hamilton adheres to a high-fat, low-carbohydrate diet emphasizing whole, unprocessed foods to sustain energy for extreme physical demands and maintain low body fat into his sixties. He prioritizes animal proteins such as sustainable fish or chicken, paired with leafy greens like lettuce, cabbage, or kale, while minimizing refined sugars, grains, and starches including wheat, potatoes, rice, and pasta, which he reports induce lethargy. This approach aligns with paleo principles, incorporating plants and animals but limiting raw dairy and excluding most fruits and alcohol to avoid sugar intake. Hydration begins mornings with two liters of water infused with lemon, sea minerals, or Himalayan salt, followed by small amounts of high-quality meats and diverse vegetables to promote mindful consumption of real foods. For recovery, Hamilton employs contrast therapy protocols, alternating hot saunas to induce sweating and cold plunges to enhance circulation and reduce inflammation, often integrated into his XPT (Extreme Performance Training) system alongside performance techniques. Active recovery includes low-intensity activities like walking or to promote blood flow without overexertion, complemented by evening sessions and chaga to support overnight processes. These methods, rooted in his water-based philosophy, aim to accelerate muscle repair and mitigate soreness from high-impact . Hamilton's longevity principles center on consistent habits over age-specific accommodations, advocating fat-burning metabolism through dietary discipline, ample sleep (rejecting less than seven hours), and addressing physical weaknesses proactively. He promotes self-maintenance routines like rolling feet with golf balls for mobility, avoiding dietary zealotry by allowing occasional indulgences, and prioritizing hydration and foundational movements in the Breathe-Move-Recover framework of XPT. This holistic regimen, emphasizing resilience and versatility, has enabled him to sustain elite performance past age 60 with body fat under 10 percent.

Personal Life

Marriage and Family

Laird Hamilton married professional beach volleyball player and model Gabrielle Reece on November 30, 1997. The couple, both prominent athletes, have maintained a high-profile partnership centered on fitness and wellness for over 25 years as of 2025. Hamilton and Reece have two biological daughters together: Reece Violet, born in 2003, and Brody Jo, born in 2008. They also raise Hamilton's daughter from his previous marriage to Maria Souza, Izabella "Bela" Hamilton, born in 1995. The family emphasizes physical health and outdoor activities, with Reece publicly crediting their shared commitment to resilience and mutual support in parenting. Prior to his marriage to Reece, Hamilton was wed to Brazilian bikini model Maria Souza in the early , with whom he had Izabella; the couple divorced before Hamilton met Reece. The blended family resides primarily between and , integrating and athletic pursuits into daily life.

Lifestyle and Residences

Hamilton and his wife, , maintain primary residences in , and on the North Shore of Kauai, , selected for their proximity to ocean access essential to his and water sports activities. The couple acquired their Malibu property approximately two decades prior to 2019, drawn to its ocean views and suitability for an active coastal . In , they opted for a hillside location in Princeville, Kauai, featuring a rare boat ramp among only nine on the island's north shore, facilitating direct water entry for daily routines. Hamilton was interviewed at this Kauai home in May 2024, confirming its ongoing use. Previously, they owned a 5,000-square-foot estate on nearly 10 acres in , near Maui's North Shore and the Pe'ahi (Jaws) surf break, which served as a base but was listed for sale in 2011 at $2.79 million. His lifestyle revolves around high-intensity physical preparation and recovery protocols tailored to big-wave and , beginning as early as 5 a.m. with hydration and exposure—such as hot showers or plunges—to activate circulation and , a practice he credits for boosting daily energy. Mornings typically include light for flexibility, followed by variable sessions of , , or pool-based resistance training to build strength and simulate conditions, always preceded by gradual warm-ups to prevent injury. emphasizes frequent, nutrient-dense meals, including multiple breakfasts to sustain energy through extended activity, alongside for focus and family bonding rituals like shared smoothies. This regimen, honed over decades, prioritizes outdoor exposure early in the day and adaptive recovery to maintain performance into his 60s.

Media Appearances and Ventures

Films, Documentaries, and Television

Hamilton portrayed a surfer in the 1987 film North Shore, marking one of his early roles alongside contributions to the sequences. He appeared uncredited in (1995), performing water stunts and riding sequences that highlighted his expertise in aquatic environments. In the James Bond film (2002), Hamilton served as a and advisor for and water action scenes, leveraging his big-wave experience. Later roles included a brief appearance in (2011) and stunt work in the 2015 remake of . As a producer and central figure, Hamilton co-produced and starred in the 2004 documentary , which chronicles the evolution of big-wave from pioneers like Greg Noll to modern riders, emphasizing tow-in techniques he helped pioneer at locations such as Jaws and . He featured prominently in Step Into Liquid (2003), a surf documentary directed by Dana Brown that showcases innovative wave-riding across global spots. The 2017 documentary Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton, directed by , provides an in-depth biography, tracing his childhood in , development of , and record-breaking rides, with archival footage and interviews underscoring his innovations in equipment and safety. Hamilton also contributed interviews to the Australian documentary (2007), discussing surf culture and influences. On television, Hamilton voiced himself in episodes of the animated series Phineas and Ferb (2007–2015) and American Dad! (2005), appearing as a surfing mentor figure. He guest-starred as John McEnroe's trainer in the series The Trainer and made talk-show appearances, including on The Colbert Report (2005) and The Late Show with David Letterman, where he discussed big-wave techniques and training. These media ventures often highlighted his role in advancing extreme water sports beyond traditional surfing.

Publications and Books

Laird Hamilton has authored two books that articulate his philosophies on physical training, mental resilience, and integrating extreme sports into broader life principles. These works draw directly from his experiences pioneering big-wave surfing techniques and cross-training methods. His debut book, Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul (And, of Course, Surfing), was published on October 28, 2008, by Rodale Books. The 256-page volume details Hamilton's holistic approach to human potential, emphasizing adaptive fitness regimens, recovery strategies, and the psychological demands of confronting massive ocean waves, with surfing positioned as a metaphor for life's challenges. In Liferider: Heart, Body, Soul, and Life Beyond the Ocean, co-authored with Julian Borra and published on March 12, 2019, by Rodale Books, Hamilton extends these ideas to and everyday application. The 256-page advocates for "riding" life's uncertainties through disciplined habits in diet, movement, and , transcending ocean-specific exploits to address universal pursuits of vitality.

Business and Endorsements

Hamilton co-founded Laird Superfood in 2015 with Paul Hodge, developing plant-based creamers, hydration products, and performance nutrition items derived from his personal regimen to sustain high-level athletic output during big-wave surfing sessions. The company emphasizes superfood ingredients like coconut water, aquamin, and chaga mushrooms, initially targeting vegan and performance-oriented consumers before expanding to include dairy and animal-based options by 2025 to reach broader markets. In April 2020, it secured a $10 million growth investment from Danone Manifesto Ventures to scale manufacturing and product development. The firm went public via IPO in September 2020 and, as of 2025, distributes through major retailers like Costco, partners with chains such as Bluestone Lane and Lifetime Fitness, and launched an online marketplace curating allied wellness brands. His wife, , has been integrally involved in Laird Superfood's branding and promotion, leveraging their shared wellness philosophy to position the products as tools for daily performance enhancement. Beyond Superfood, Hamilton has pursued endorsements with surf industry brands, including multi-year deals with Surftech for custom board designs and for apparel as early as , funding his exploratory surfing pursuits. In 2021, he inked a three-year exclusive sponsorship with U.S. & , supplying functional creamers to support athletes' routines. Additional partnerships include former Navy SEAL as a 2023 brand ambassador, promoting the line's recovery-focused formulations. These ventures reflect Hamilton's shift from pure athleticism to entrepreneurial applications of his training protocols, generating revenue streams independent of competition winnings while maintaining ties to action sports sponsors for visibility. Early career financing through modeling, gigs, and non-traditional endorsements—such as photo shoots in remote locations—underscored his pragmatic approach to sustaining innovation in wave-riding equipment and techniques.

Reception and Impact

Achievements and Recognition

Laird Hamilton co-invented in the early 1990s alongside and Darrick Doerner, initially using a Zodiac to access previously unridden big waves at Pe'ahi (Jaws) on , before transitioning to towing for greater speed and positioning. This innovation enabled surfers to tackle faster, larger waves that were impossible to paddle into manually, fundamentally expanding the limits of big-wave and influencing subsequent generations of watermen. Hamilton's to participate in competitive events like the XXL Big Wave Awards underscores his preference for personal challenge over accolades, viewing contests as contrary to the exploratory spirit of the sport. On August 17, 2000, Hamilton rode what became known as the Millennium Wave at , —a thick, 40-foot face considered among the heaviest waves successfully surfed at the time due to its compact power and lip thickness, captured in footage that highlighted the dangers and precision of tow-in techniques. He also pioneered advancements in stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and hydrofoiling, adapting these methods to big-wave contexts and promoting them as fitness and performance tools. In recognition of his contributions to SUP, Hamilton received the Lifetime Achievement Award from SUP Magazine in 2013, presented at an event in San Clemente, California, for his role in elevating the discipline from niche Hawaiian practice to global pursuit. His overall impact has earned him acclaim as a transformative figure in ocean sports, with peers and media outlets crediting him as the preeminent big-wave pioneer, though formal competitive honors remain limited by his non-participatory stance.

Criticisms from Traditionalists

Traditional surfers, emphasizing the sport's origins in unassisted paddle-ins on finless or finned boards, have criticized Laird Hamilton's tow-in technique as a departure from surfing's core ethos of and physical endurance. Introduced by Hamilton and collaborators like Darrick Doerner and Dave Kalama at Pe'ahi (Jaws) in around 1995–1996, tow-in surfing employs to propel surfers into waves exceeding 40 feet, bypassing the exhaustive paddling required for traditional access to such breaks. Purists argue this reliance on machinery diminishes the human challenge, transforming into a mechanized pursuit akin to motorized sports rather than a test of wave-reading and stamina. These innovations faced widespread skepticism and derision within the community, with early attempts at Jaws eliciting isolation and doubt even among peers, as Hamilton later reflected on questioning whether the feats were "as awesome as we think it is." Critics contended that tow-in prioritized wave size and spectacle over the purity of organic wave-catching, effectively "cheating" the paddle-out's ritualistic grind that defines big-wave paddle 's prestige. This view persisted into the early 2000s, as tow-in gained traction but clashed with traditionalists' preference for proving prowess without external aids, a stance echoed in broader debates where paddle-in is framed as validation of raw athleticism versus tow-in's performance-oriented efficiency. Hamilton's promotion of stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and hydrofoiling has compounded these critiques, with traditionalists dismissing SUP as an accessible shortcut that erodes the prone paddler's skill set and hydrofoiling as an unnatural lift that severs direct board-to-water contact. Detractors label such methods "not core" or impure, accusing them of diluting surfing's elemental bond with the ocean in favor of technological edges, a resistance Hamilton attributes to aversion to evolution: "When you're doing something different, I don't think people like change." While these views have softened as innovations like tow-in became mainstream—evident in events like the World Surf League's Big Wave Tour incorporating tow-ins by 2016—the initial backlash underscores a philosophical rift, where purists safeguard surfing's ascetic traditions against Hamilton's boundary-pushing .

Legacy and Influence on Surfing Evolution

Laird Hamilton's innovations in the 1990s fundamentally reshaped big-wave by introducing tow-in techniques at Pe'ahi (Jaws) on , where he collaborated with surfers including Darrick Doerner and Dave Kalama to use jet skis for . This method employed foot straps and powered to achieve the speed necessary for dropping into massive, fast-moving waves previously inaccessible by paddle alone, marking a pivotal shift from traditional paddling limitations. The approach, initially experimented with Zodiac boats in the early 1980s alongside , evolved into a jet ski-based system by the mid-1990s, enabling rides of unprecedented scale and velocity. These advancements extended to safety protocols, as tow vehicles facilitated rapid rescues in hazardous conditions, reducing risks in extreme environments and influencing global big-wave practices. Hamilton's 2000 tow-in at , known as the "Millennium Wave," exemplified the technique's potential, capturing media attention and accelerating its adoption worldwide. By validating powered assistance, his work challenged purist norms, fostering a hybrid that integrated with skill, though it initially faced resistance from traditionalists favoring unassisted entries. Hamilton further propelled surfing's diversification through hydrofoiling and stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). In the late and early , he advanced foil boards, which lift riders above the water surface via hydrofoils, minimizing drag and opening new wave-riding dimensions across varied conditions. Concurrently, he refined SUP from ancient traditions into a modern discipline, enhancing accessibility and versatility for flat-water and small-wave scenarios with collaborators like Dave Kalama. These crossover innovations positioned Hamilton as a primary of board progression, inspiring subsequent generations to prioritize adaptability and boundary-pushing over conventional constraints.

References

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