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Carlos Carsolio
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Carlos Carsolio
Carlos Carsolio Larrea (born 4 October 1962 in Mexico City) is a Mexican mountaineer. Carsolio is known for being the fourth man (first non-European) and the second youngest to climb the world's 14 eight-thousanders, all of them without supplemental oxygen (although, he required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988).
Carsolio, the eldest of seven children, was introduced to mountaineering by his mother. When she was pregnant, she climbed Iztaccíhuatl (5,220 meters) despite her doctor's recommendations. Carsolio admired climber Hermann Buhl in his youth, and later Lynn Hill, Peter Croft and Jerzy Kukuczka.
His first ascents were in Mexico: Pico de Orizaba and Popocatépetl. In the early 1980s Carsolio climbed the nose of El Capitan in Yosemite, California.
At age 22, Carsolio got his first big achievement when he climbed Reinhold Messner's tough south face route of Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America at 6,962 meters (22,841 feet). He traveled to Patagonia in 1990 with his friend Andrés Delgado to make the first Mexican ascent of Cerro Torre, considered by experts as the world's most difficult mountain for its great granite wall of at least 800 meters (2,600 feet), no matter what path climbers seek to attack. In 1991 Carsolio and Delgado climbed on Baffin Island, Canada where they accomplished the first Mexican summit.
Carsolio climbed his first eight-thousander with Jerzy Kukuczka; considered by some the best high-altitude climber in the world. They climbed Nanga Parbat on 13 July 1985, with a Polish expedition, led by Pawel Mularz.
Carsolio summited Shisha Pangma with Elsa Ávila, Ramíro Navarrete, Ryszard Warecki and Wanda Rutkiewicz, and being the first to traverse the sharp snow arête from the Central Summit to the Main Summit. Carsolio and Ávila were the first Mexicans to reach that peak, for Navarrete would be the first Ecuadorian eight-thousander on 18 July 1987.
His solo ascension of Makalu on 12 October 1988 was the third eight-thousander in Carsolio's career. He required rescue and emergency oxygen on the descent.
On 13 October 1989 Carsolio headed a Mexican expedition to make summit on Mount Everest by the southeast route without the aid of bottled oxygen. This was a pending account with the mountain, months before with Elsa Ávila; they had to abort the mission because his partner got severe pulmonary edema only 92 meters (302 feet), from the summit. They were forced to retreat. Elsa would summit Everest 10 years later. However, on 16 May, his countryman, Ricardo Torres-Nava, reached the mountaintop to become the first Mexican and Latin American to do so, with supplementary oxygen on an American expedition. 1989 was a particularly hard year on Everest. Sherpas saw it as a "dark year" because of 24 people who reached the summit, 8 died during the descent.
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Carlos Carsolio
Carlos Carsolio Larrea (born 4 October 1962 in Mexico City) is a Mexican mountaineer. Carsolio is known for being the fourth man (first non-European) and the second youngest to climb the world's 14 eight-thousanders, all of them without supplemental oxygen (although, he required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988).
Carsolio, the eldest of seven children, was introduced to mountaineering by his mother. When she was pregnant, she climbed Iztaccíhuatl (5,220 meters) despite her doctor's recommendations. Carsolio admired climber Hermann Buhl in his youth, and later Lynn Hill, Peter Croft and Jerzy Kukuczka.
His first ascents were in Mexico: Pico de Orizaba and Popocatépetl. In the early 1980s Carsolio climbed the nose of El Capitan in Yosemite, California.
At age 22, Carsolio got his first big achievement when he climbed Reinhold Messner's tough south face route of Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America at 6,962 meters (22,841 feet). He traveled to Patagonia in 1990 with his friend Andrés Delgado to make the first Mexican ascent of Cerro Torre, considered by experts as the world's most difficult mountain for its great granite wall of at least 800 meters (2,600 feet), no matter what path climbers seek to attack. In 1991 Carsolio and Delgado climbed on Baffin Island, Canada where they accomplished the first Mexican summit.
Carsolio climbed his first eight-thousander with Jerzy Kukuczka; considered by some the best high-altitude climber in the world. They climbed Nanga Parbat on 13 July 1985, with a Polish expedition, led by Pawel Mularz.
Carsolio summited Shisha Pangma with Elsa Ávila, Ramíro Navarrete, Ryszard Warecki and Wanda Rutkiewicz, and being the first to traverse the sharp snow arête from the Central Summit to the Main Summit. Carsolio and Ávila were the first Mexicans to reach that peak, for Navarrete would be the first Ecuadorian eight-thousander on 18 July 1987.
His solo ascension of Makalu on 12 October 1988 was the third eight-thousander in Carsolio's career. He required rescue and emergency oxygen on the descent.
On 13 October 1989 Carsolio headed a Mexican expedition to make summit on Mount Everest by the southeast route without the aid of bottled oxygen. This was a pending account with the mountain, months before with Elsa Ávila; they had to abort the mission because his partner got severe pulmonary edema only 92 meters (302 feet), from the summit. They were forced to retreat. Elsa would summit Everest 10 years later. However, on 16 May, his countryman, Ricardo Torres-Nava, reached the mountaintop to become the first Mexican and Latin American to do so, with supplementary oxygen on an American expedition. 1989 was a particularly hard year on Everest. Sherpas saw it as a "dark year" because of 24 people who reached the summit, 8 died during the descent.