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Christian Millau
Christian Millau
Christian Millau
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Christian Dubois-Millot, pen name Christian Millau (French pronunciation: [kʁistjɑ̃ mijo], 30 December 1928 – 5 August 2017), was a French food critic and author.

Born in Paris, he began his career as a journalist in the "interior policy" department of Le Monde newspaper.[1] In 1965 he founded the Gault Millau restaurant guide Le Nouveau Guide with Henri Gault and André Gayot.[2] He launched the famed Gault & Millau guide in 1969 with Henri Gault, which helped galvanise the movement of young French chefs developing lighter, more inventive and beautiful looking dishes. Some 100,000 copies of the guide were sold that year.[3] He was originally slated to be one of the judges at the historic Judgment of Paris wine tasting event of 1976 but was replaced by his brother Claude Dubois-Millot.[4]

His friends announced his death on 7 August 2017 at the age of 88.[5][6]

Published works

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  • (with Marianne Rufenacht) La Belle Époque à table, Gault-Millau, 1981
  • Dining in France Stewart, Tabori & Chang 1986 ISBN 0-283-99395-2
  • La France à la carte Gault-Millau 1986 ISBN 2-85108-441-0
  • The Best of San Francisco & Northern California Hungry Minds Inc. 1988 ISBN 0-13-076084-6
  • The Best of Los Angeles Gault-Millau 1988 ISBN 0-13-076068-4
  • The Best of London Gault-Millau 1990 ISBN 0-13-073180-3
  • Les fous du palais: Drôle de voyage au pays des gourmands R. Laffont 1994 ISBN 2-221-07985-X
  • The Best of Paris Gault-Millau 1994 ISBN 1-881066-03-7
  • Au galop des hussards: Dans le tourbillon littéraire des années 50 Fallois 1999 ISBN 2-87706-346-1
    Grand Prix de l' Académie française de la biographie, Prize Joseph Kessel.
  • Paris m'a dit: Années 50, fin d'une époque Fallois 2000 ISBN 2-87706-388-7
  • Bon baisers du goulag. Secrets de famille. PLON 2004 ISBN 2-259-19976-3
  • Commissaire Corcoran Editions Feryane 2004 ISBN 2-84011-701-0
  • Dieu est-il Gascon ? Le Rocher 2006 ISBN 2-268-05775-5
  • Guide des restaurants fantômes. Ou les ridicules de la société française. Plon 2007 ISBN 978-2-259-20699-0
  • Le passant de Vienne. Un certain Adolf Éditions du Rocher, 2010
  • Journal impoli, 2011-1928 Editions du Rocher 2011 ISBN 2-268-07052-2
  • Dictionnaire d'un peu tout et n'importe quoi, Editions du Rocher, 2013, ISBN 9782268075075

See also

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References

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Christian Millau

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Christian Millau is a French food critic, journalist, and author known for co-founding the influential Gault-Millau restaurant guide with Henri Gault and for coining and promoting the term "nouvelle cuisine" to describe a lighter, more inventive approach to French cooking that revolutionized gastronomy in the 1970s. Born Christian Dubois-Millot in Paris on December 30, 1928, Millau studied at Sciences Po and began his journalism career in 1949 as a political reporter for Le Monde before contributing to literary reviews and working as deputy editor at Paris-Presse, where he encountered Henri Gault. In the early 1960s, the pair collaborated on Paris restaurant guides, and in 1969 they launched Le Nouveau Guide Gault-Millau as a monthly magazine featuring detailed reviews; by 1972 it evolved into the annual Gault & Millau guide that challenged the Michelin Guide's dominance through its opinionated prose, 0–20 scoring system, and focus on discovering emerging talent. Millau and Gault identified and championed young chefs who broke from classical techniques—favoring reduced sauces, fresh ingredients, and lighter dishes—and their promotion of nouvelle cuisine influenced international dining trends, with their lively, witty, and passionate criticism establishing a new standard for gastronomic journalism. After selling the guide in 1983 and parting with Gault in 1985, Millau continued overseeing it for several years and later authored memoirs and other books reflecting on his life and career. He died in Paris on August 5, 2017, at the age of 88.

Early Life

Birth and Family Background

Christian Millau was born Christian Dubois-Millot on December 30, 1928, in Paris, France. He was the son of Paul Dubois and Anne (née Masur), his mother a Russian émigré. Limited information exists regarding further details of his family background or parents' professions in available records.

Education and Early Interests

Christian Millau studied at Sciences Po, the Paris Institute of Political Studies. His journalism career began in 1949 when he started as a political reporter for Le Monde, where he first used his pen name Christian Millau.

Early Journalism Career

Work at Paris-Presse and Other Publications

Christian Millau, whose real name was Christian Dubois-Millot, began his professional journalism career in 1949 as a journalist. In 1949, he joined Le Monde as a political reporter in the interior policy department, where he first adopted the pen name Christian Millau for his bylines. During the early 1950s, Millau contributed to various literary reviews, including Opéra, a publication edited by Roger Nimier and associated with the right-wing "Hussards" literary movement of the period. He also worked at the magazine Jours de France from 1957 to 1958, alongside other assignments in mainstream press outlets during this time. From 1951 to 1970, Millau was employed at the evening newspaper Paris-Presse-l'Intransigeant, where he rose to the position of deputy editor-in-chief by 1960 and took responsibility for the features and magazine pages. In this role, he oversaw a range of cultural, lifestyle, and general reporting content, contributing to the paper's diverse editorial output over nearly two decades of mainstream journalism. His work in these areas gradually developed an interest in food-related subjects that would influence his later specialization.

Development as a Food Writer

Christian Millau's development as a food writer occurred after approximately two decades of mainstream journalism. By 1960, he had become deputy editor of the evening newspaper Paris-Presse, where he began to engage more deeply with gastronomic topics as part of his editorial responsibilities. This period marked his gradual shift toward specializing in food and restaurant criticism, distinct from his earlier work in general reporting for publications such as Le Monde. An early milestone in his food writing came in 1964, when he contributed to the Guide Julliard de Paris alongside colleague Henri Gault, producing text that helped establish their reputation in culinary commentary. At Paris-Presse, his gastronomic articles and reviews increasingly focused on honest assessments of dining experiences, reflecting a journalistic preference for clarity and directness over the more elaborate and deferential style typical of traditional French food criticism at the time. This evolving approach emphasized accessibility and candor, setting the stage for his later specialization in the field.

Partnership with Henri Gault

Meeting and Collaboration

Christian Millau and Henri Gault met in the early 1960s at the Paris-Presse newspaper, where Millau served as deputy editor-in-chief responsible for the magazine pages and Gault worked as a grand reporter. In 1961, editorial director Pierre Charpy entrusted Gault with the weekly column "Week-end et promenades," which focused on outings and restaurant discoveries in the Paris region. Millau edited these columns each week, marking the start of their close professional collaboration and leading him to become Gault's regular dining companion as they pursued exceptional meals together. The pair shared a passion for gastronomy and developed a bold, irreverent style of food writing that broke sharply with the conservative tone dominating French culinary criticism at the time. Their early joint work proved popular, with restaurant recommendations often resulting in immediate bookings, and prompted the 1962 publication of a book compiling column selections under the title A Voir et à manger, issued by Éditions Julliard, along with the first Paris-focused guide bearing their names. Despite disagreements on most subjects, including politics, religion, and music, Millau and Gault agreed completely on matters of taste, forming the core of their partnership. This foundation eventually led to their decision to create a broader publication dedicated to French gastronomy.

Departure from Traditional Criticism

Christian Millau and Henri Gault departed from the conservative and traditional style of gastronomic criticism, particularly as embodied by the Michelin Guide, which they viewed as a bastion of outdated orthodoxy that favored established chefs and ignored emerging talent. Their collaboration emphasized bold, iconoclastic reporting that openly challenged the status quo, beginning with their work at Paris-Presse in the early 1960s and culminating in the launch of Le Nouveau Guide in 1969 as a direct counter to Michelin's approach. They prioritized strict independence in their reviews, paying for their own meals from the outset and grading restaurants without regard for the opinions of other critics or commentators. Unlike traditional guides that relied on symbolic ratings or anonymous inspections, Gault and Millau adopted a 20-point scale (with a maximum of 19.5/20, as "only God can achieve 20") and published detailed paragraphs of descriptive prose to convey their assessments, focusing on flavors, presentation, and the chef's imagination rather than decor or crockery. Millau rejected the practice of anonymous reviewing, arguing that recognition made no meaningful difference since ingredients and menus were already set, and that it was unnecessary for honest evaluation. This approach enabled them to discover and champion new generations of chefs far earlier than traditional criticism, fostering a more dynamic and innovative discourse in French gastronomy. Their critical style, marked by crisp prose and a willingness to highlight overlooked talent, stood in sharp contrast to the seniority-based and conservative evaluations they associated with Michelin, which they believed rewarded chefs only after many years of established practice.

Founding and Evolution of Gault et Millau

Launch of the Guide

In March 1969, Henri Gault and Christian Millau launched Le Nouveau Guide Gault-Millau, a monthly magazine featuring detailed restaurant reviews across France. It emerged from modest beginnings, initially operating out of a small apartment and later a storage space, and emphasized honest, fresh, and nonconformist commentary on restaurants across various budgets and styles rather than focusing solely on luxury establishments. The first edition appeared in March 1969 and sold 100,000 copies in its first year, reflecting immediate public interest and establishing early commercial success. Distributed in multiple countries, it quickly gained recognition as a serious rival to Michelin, appealing to readers through its impertinent tone and willingness to highlight emerging talent and unconventional addresses. By 1972 it evolved into the annual Gault & Millau guide.

Rating System and Methodology

The Gault & Millau guide employed a distinctive 20-point rating scale, modeled after the French school grading system, to evaluate restaurants. The numerical score focused primarily on the quality of the cuisine, emphasizing taste, presentation, creativity, and the imagination of the chef. Aspects such as service, price, and atmosphere were addressed through separate descriptive comments in the reviews rather than integrated into the points. Restaurants earning high scores also received one to five toques (chef's hats), with the number corresponding to performance levels on the 20-point scale. During Henri Gault and Christian Millau's active involvement, no restaurant achieved a perfect 20/20, as the founders maintained that "no one is perfect." This scoring methodology remained consistent throughout their tenure, rooted in independent assessments with anonymous visits and meals fully paid for by the guide. In contrast to the Michelin Guide's system of one to three stars, which highlighted consistent excellence in a more traditional and standardized framework, the Gault & Millau approach offered greater nuance through its granular scale and placed stronger emphasis on culinary innovation, lightness, and ingredient quality over formality or elaborate décor. This system contributed to a more progressive evaluation of dining establishments.

Expansion and Influence

The guide was sold to Le Point in 1983, and Gault and Millau parted ways in 1985, after which Millau continued to run it until 1992. Following its establishment as a leading French culinary authority, the Gault & Millau guide pursued international expansion through licence agreements, beginning in 1979 with the first such deal. This initiative extended the brand's distinctive model of anonymous, flavor-focused, and independent reviews to other markets, starting with Austria in 1979, followed by Switzerland in 1982 and Germany in 1983. Under Christian Millau's ongoing direction until 1992, these early steps laid the foundation for broader European reach, allowing local adaptations while preserving the guide's emphasis on creativity, personality in cuisine, and candid critique over prestige or décor. The guide's influence proved profound, particularly in propelling nouvelle cuisine to international prominence during the early 1970s. By endorsing lighter techniques, fresh ingredients, reduced sauces, and innovative presentations, it shaped culinary discourse beyond France and inspired chefs abroad, including prominent figures in the United States and United Kingdom such as Charlie Trotter, Jeremiah Tower, Thomas Keller, Anton Mosimann, and Raymond Blanc. Gault & Millau consistently identified emerging talent ahead of rivals, often recognizing chefs like Bernard Loiseau, Guy Savoy, Michel Guérard, Michel Trama, and Alain Senderens a decade or more before Michelin awarded them stars. Its lively, witty, and opinionated reviews contrasted sharply with the restraint of predecessors, redefining gastronomic journalism as passionate and independent rather than advertising-driven. This approach not only challenged Michelin's dominance but also elevated chefs to celebrity status and encouraged a broader cultural shift toward valuing creativity and accessibility in high-end dining. After Millau handed over direction in 1992, the Gault & Millau brand continued its growth, establishing editions in additional countries and evolving into an international network that now spans Europe, Asia, the Middle East, and beyond, while maintaining its core philosophy of discovering and promoting authentic gastronomic excellence.

Contributions to Nouvelle Cuisine

Coining and Defining the Movement

In collaboration with Henri Gault, Christian Millau coined the term "nouvelle cuisine" in 1973 through a founding article-manifesto that defined the emerging culinary movement as a break from classical French grande cuisine. This manifesto introduced the "10 commandments of the Nouvelle Cuisine," which codified the principles guiding the shift toward lighter, more natural, and innovative cooking. The commandments stressed avoiding overcooking to preserve the integrity of ingredients, using only high-quality fresh products, eliminating rich sauces in favor of lighter preparations, and encouraging inventiveness while simplifying menus and drawing on new techniques. These ideas collectively emphasized reduced cooking times, fresh ingredients, and lighter sauces to highlight natural flavors rather than masking them with heavy reductions or enrichments, fundamentally redefining modern French gastronomy. Millau's contributions, alongside Gault's, lay in articulating these principles as a coherent philosophy that challenged traditional dogmas and promoted creativity, influencing a generation of chefs who embraced the movement's focus on freshness and lightness.

Promotion of Key Chefs and Restaurants

Through the Gault et Millau guide and their earlier publications, Christian Millau and Henri Gault actively championed a select group of innovative chefs whose work anticipated and defined nouvelle cuisine, elevating them from relative obscurity to international recognition. In their 1969 article in Le Nouveau Guide titled “Michelin: Don’t forget these 48 stars!”, they highlighted dozens of emerging talents overlooked by Michelin, positioning Paul Bocuse as a leading figure while also featuring Michel Guérard and others as pioneers of lighter, more inventive approaches. This early advocacy introduced chefs to one another, publicized their concepts, and helped lay the groundwork for nouvelle cuisine. Paul Bocuse received particular emphasis as the figure who first drew chefs out of their kitchens into public view, with Gault et Millau amplifying his status as a charismatic leader embodying the movement's ideals. Michel Guérard was promoted as the chef who most typified the emphasis on lightness, freshness, and reconciliation of dietetics with gastronomy; his small bistro Pot-au-Feu in Asnières-sur-Seine was described as a place where nouvelle cuisine emerged in its early form, and after his 1974 relocation to Les Prés d’Eugénie, the restaurant earned 18/20 in the Gault et Millau guide within a few years, along with multiple toques and eventual membership in the Gault&Millau Academy. The Troisgros brothers, Pierre and Jean, were recognized as visionary figures who assimilated and advanced the new style at Maison Troisgros, contributing to the movement's development alongside Bocuse and Guérard. The guide's practice of discovering and highlighting such talents—encapsulated in the phrase “Gault&Millau discovers and Michelin consecrates”—ensured sustained promotion of these chefs and their restaurants through high ratings, features, and public legitimization, significantly shaping the visibility of nouvelle cuisine establishments.

Publications and Later Career

Books and Articles

Christian Millau authored a number of books on gastronomy and memoirs, independent of his work on the Gault-Millau guide, reflecting his continued engagement with culinary writing and personal reflections later in his career. In 1986, he published Dining in France, which provides a detailed gastronomic tour of France's regions, highlighting notable restaurants, local specialties, and recipes for signature dishes. His Dictionnaire amoureux de la gastronomie, released in 2008, offers a personal, alphabetical exploration of culinary history, ingredients, personalities, and concepts in an affectionate and opinionated style. The work appeared in English translation as A Lover's Gastronomic Dictionary the same year. Millau also wrote Au Galop des Hussards: Dans le Tourbillon Littéraire des Années 50 (1999), a biographical account of the 1950s French literary movement Les Hussards, which earned him the grand prix for biography from the French Academy and the Joseph Kessel prize. His memoir Journal Impoli 2011-1928 (published in 2011 and known in English as Rude Journal: 2011-1928) chronicles his life and career with candid, irreverent observations and received the politically incorrect book prize. A condensed version of his gastronomic dictionary, Petit dictionnaire amoureux de la gastronomie, followed in 2013.

Post-GaultMillau Activities

In 1992, Christian Millau took his gastronomic retirement after having continued to oversee the Gault-Millau guide following his professional split with Henri Gault in 1985 and the earlier sale of the publication's title to Le Point in 1983. This marked the end of his active involvement in restaurant criticism and the guide he had co-founded. He thereafter devoted himself to literature, publishing a series of novels, memoirs, and other writings. In 1999, he released the memoir Au galop des hussards : dans le tourbillon littéraire des années 50, which received the Prix Joseph-Kessel and the Grand Prix de la biographie de l'Académie française. Among his later works was Journal impoli. Un siècle au galop, 2011-1928, awarded the Prix du livre incorrect in 2011. In 2013, Millau established the Prix des Hussards, an annual literary prize honoring elegant and incisive novels that resist conformist thought. He remained associated with the prize in its early years.

Personal Life

Family and Private Interests

Christian Millau married Arlette Conrad in 1959. She predeceased him in 2016. He was survived by three children: his daughter Marianne Dubois-Millau and his sons Jérôme and Alexis. No detailed information is available on his private hobbies or interests beyond his family life and literary pursuits.

Death and Legacy

Final Years

In his final years, Christian Millau resided in Saint-Mandé near Paris, living privately after having retired from gastronomic criticism in 1992 to focus on writing. He published the book Journal impoli in 2011, which received the Prix du livre incorrect. He died at his home in Saint-Mandé on 5 August 2017 at the age of 88. The news of his death was announced on 7 August 2017 by the general director of the Gault & Millau guide. Numerous obituaries and tributes appeared in the French press.

Recognition and Impact

Christian Millau, together with Henri Gault, received notable international recognition for their transformative work in gastronomy. The Gault-Millau guide they co-founded emerged as a major challenger to the Michelin Guide's long-standing dominance in French restaurant evaluation, with Millau dismissing the Michelin as “a telephone book” and advocating for a more independent, flavor-focused approach that paid for meals anonymously and prioritized chef creativity over tradition. This disruptive stance helped shift the gastronomic landscape by promoting lesser-known bistros and cafés while questioning the established prestige of revered institutions. Millau's most enduring impact stems from his role in defining and popularizing nouvelle cuisine, the term he and Gault coined in the early 1970s along with its influential “10 commandments” manifesto, which emphasized lighter, more inventive cooking and spread to international chefs such as Thomas Keller, Jeremiah Tower, and Raymond Blanc. The guide's distinctive style—personal, witty, and narrative-driven reviews paired with a scoring system out of 20 (reserving 20 only for perfection)—contrasted sharply with Michelin's terse symbolism and fostered a more accessible, opinionated form of criticism that appealed to younger diners and accelerated recognition of emerging talent. Through these innovations, Millau contributed to the democratization of gastronomy by elevating young chefs like the Troisgros brothers, Michel Guérard, and Alain Chapel into household names and helping transform the profession from a working-class trade into a celebrated creative pursuit. His legacy persists in the ongoing influence of the GaultMillau guide as an alternative voice in food evaluation and in the broader evolution of modern culinary criticism toward immediacy, independence, and reader engagement.

References

  1. https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/aug/24/christian-millau-obituary
  2. https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/obituaries/christian-millau-french-food-critic-who-championed-nouvelle-cuisine-dies-at-88/2017/08/08/ff150104-7bb8-11e7-83c7-5bd5460f0d7e_story.html
  3. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/08/08/world/europe/christian-millau-dead-of-gault-millau-restaurant-guide.html
  4. https://www.lemonde.fr/disparitions/article/2017/08/07/le-critique-gastronomique-christian-millau-cofondateur-du-gault-et-millau-est-mort_5169648_3382.html
  5. https://biographie.whoswho.fr/decede/biographie-christian-millau_10291
  6. https://fr.gaultmillau.com/en/news/notre-histoire---gault-millau
  7. https://www.gastromondiale.com/2019-3-21-one-part-genius-to-one-part-hype-nouvelle-cuisine-franaise-clarified-2/
  8. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/obituaries/2017/08/16/christian-millau-restaurant-guide-co-founder-obituary/
  9. https://www.gault-millau.hu/en/nouveau-guide-the-origins-of-the-gaultmillau-legendary-success
  10. https://www.gayot.com/restaurant/nouvelle-cuisine-the-true-story/
  11. https://www.gaultmillau.org/history/?lang=en
  12. https://www.gamberorossointernational.com/news/rip-christian-millau-founder-of-gastronomic-guides-and-nouvelle-cuisine-guru/
  13. https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2000-jul-11-me-51130-story.html
  14. https://www.gaultmillauae.com/news/gaultmillau-a-history/
  15. https://fr.gaultmillau.com/en/faq/quelle-est-la-difference-entre-le-guide-michelin-et-gault-millau-
  16. https://www.gaultmillau.org/?lang=en
  17. https://www.gaultmillau.org/international/?lang=en
  18. https://www.britannica.com/topic/nouvelle-cuisine
  19. https://fr.gaultmillau.com/en/people/michel-guerard
  20. https://fr.gaultmillau.com/en/news/la-nouvelle-cuisine-que-devient-elle-depuis-1973
  21. https://books.google.com/books/about/Dining_in_France.html?id=BpWnGmTsjmMC
  22. https://www.amazon.com/Dining-France-Christian-Millau/dp/0941434877
  23. https://www.amazon.fr/Dictionnaire-amoureux-Gastronomie-Christian-MILLAU/dp/2259206980
  24. https://www.babelio.com/livres/Millau-Dictionnaire-amoureux-de-la-Gastronomie/153672
  25. https://archive.org/details/petitdictionnair0000mill
  26. https://www.lefigaro.fr/livres/2017/08/07/03005-20170807ARTFIG00091-mort-de-christian-millau-cofondateur-du-guide-gault-amp-millau.php
  27. https://www.rfi.fr/fr/france/20170807-deces-christian-millau-cofondateur-guide-gastronomique-gault-millau
  28. https://www.leparisien.fr/societe/le-cofondateur-de-gault-et-millau-christian-millau-est-decede-07-08-2017-7180044.php
  29. https://www.lexpress.fr/styles/plaisirs/saveurs/deces-de-christian-milllau-cofondateur-du-guide-gastronomique-gault-et-millau_1933621.html
  30. https://www.prixdeshussards.com/
  31. https://actualitte.com/article/122963/prix-litteraires/trois-titres-en-selection-finale-du-prix-des-hussards-2025
  32. https://www.purepeople.com/article/obseques-de-christian-millau-les-etoiles-et-ses-proches-lui-disent-adieu_a247735/1
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