Clog (British)
Clog (British)
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Clog (British)

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Clog (British)

A British clog is a wooden-soled clog from Great Britain. The uppers are typically leather, and many variations exist in style and fastening.

There are two explanations of the development of the English style clog. They may have evolved from pattens which were slats of wood held in place by thonging or similar strapping. They were usually worn under leather or fabric shoes to raise the wearer's foot above the mud of the unmade road, not to mention commonly dumped human effluent and animal dung. Those too poor to afford shoes wore wood directly against the skin or hosiery, and thus the clog was developed, made of part leather and part wood. Alternatively they have been described as far back as Roman times, possibly earlier.

The wearing of clogs in Britain became more visible with the Industrial Revolution, when industrial workers needed strong, cheap footwear. Men and women wore laced and clasped clogs respectively, the fastening clasps being of engraved brass or more commonly steel. Nailed under the sole at toe and heel were clog irons, called calkers or cokers, generally 3/8" wide x 1/4" thick with a groove down the middle to protected the nail heads from wear. The heyday of the clog in Britain was between the 1840s and 1920s and, although traditionally associated with Lancashire, they were worn all over the country, not just in the industrial North of England. Indeed, Mark Clyndes of Walkleys says "More clogs were worn down south than in the northern industrial towns". The London fish docks, fruit markets and the mines of Kent being particularly noted. Clogs could be manufactured within hospitals to keep down the cost of clothing. Through manufacture, repair and wear clogs could become individually recognised. In the aftermath of disasters they could be a means of identifying the victims, as happened after the Clifton Hall Colliery disaster where at least two men could only be identified this way.

Clogs were sometimes handed out as part of poor relief; the Blackburn Weekly Telegraph recorded five people receiving "gifts of clogs or parcels of clothing" in 1912.

Although associated in the popular mind with dancing, clogs are still used in industry and are available tested to EN345. Such clogs are particularly advantageous in metal working industries where hot swarf or splashes of molten metal may be found on the floor. In 1989 three shiploads of clogs were sent to The Netherlands due to the perceived inferiority of the Dutch clog in wet fields.

In the past the English tended to employ Welsh and West Country alder, Scottish birch and Lincolnshire willow for the soles. The Welsh favoured alder, birch & sycamore. for their clog soles.

The traditional method of construction starts with gangs of itinerant woodsmen who would buy a stand of timber for the felling. The regular gangs would operate in a similar fashion to coppice workers and circulate around 12 stands in 12 years to allow regrowth. The timber was felled and sawn to length. Logs from larger trees were split; that from smaller coppice wood did not require splitting. The billets were roughly shaped with a stock knife and a deep notch put in where the sole and heel meet. All the work was done in green wood which is easier to work than seasoned wood. The clog blocks were then generally stacked up in open pyramids to allow the air to circulate and seasoned for a few months. The offcuts and waste was sold on, either as pea-sticks and firewood to provide money for food or else as fuel to the wool dyeing trade.

The seasoned wood was sold on to the master clogger who would finish the work on the now dry, seasoned wood. The same stock knives were used for shaping with two more pivot knives, the hollower and the gripper bit. The latter is used to cut the rebate to hold the upper. The final operation is to finish the sole perfectly smooth by rasps and short bladed knives.

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