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Durumagi
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Durumagi
Durumagi (Korean: 두루마기; lit. closed all around) is a variety of po, or overcoat, in hanbok, the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear that is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing over a jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants). It also goes by the names jumagui (주막의; 周莫衣), juchaui (주차의; 周遮衣), or juui (주의; 周衣),
The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times. This form of paofu (Chinese robes) was mid-calf in length and had binding which were similar to those used in the jeogori. These robes look similar to the zhiju (Chinese: 直裾), which date as far back as the Shang dynasty.
Two examples of the zhiju can be found in Mawangdui (马王堆) BC 206–24 and Mashan chumu (马山楚墓) BC 770–476. Tomb murals from Goguryeo were primarily painted in two regions, Ji'an (集安) and Pyeongyang, which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively. The paintings dating from this period in the region of Jian show the typical characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs. In the regions of Pyeongyang, the cultural influence of the Han dynasty is reflected in figures dressed in Chinese-style attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.
According to Samuel Lee, the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:
"[Goguryeo] Murals also show that both men and women wore chima. The type worn by both for formal occasions was sang and that worn only by women was goon, which had long and wide dimensions. The origin of durumagi, the long outer coat worn over a jeogori, goes back to the Goguryeo period. The durumagi emanates form the long coat worn by northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times. The long coat [worn by northern Chinese] reached mid-calf and had bindings similar to those used for jeogori. Later, this [long coat] was adopted by the Goguryeo upper class in various forms for ceremonies and rituals, and the modified form worn by the general populace came to be known as durumagi.
However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:
Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from Gamsinchong (龕神塚), the ancient durumagi worn by the owner of Gamsinchong tomb was red (or purple) in colour:
[The tomb of the owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
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Durumagi
Durumagi (Korean: 두루마기; lit. closed all around) is a variety of po, or overcoat, in hanbok, the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear that is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing over a jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants). It also goes by the names jumagui (주막의; 周莫衣), juchaui (주차의; 周遮衣), or juui (주의; 周衣),
The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times. This form of paofu (Chinese robes) was mid-calf in length and had binding which were similar to those used in the jeogori. These robes look similar to the zhiju (Chinese: 直裾), which date as far back as the Shang dynasty.
Two examples of the zhiju can be found in Mawangdui (马王堆) BC 206–24 and Mashan chumu (马山楚墓) BC 770–476. Tomb murals from Goguryeo were primarily painted in two regions, Ji'an (集安) and Pyeongyang, which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively. The paintings dating from this period in the region of Jian show the typical characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs. In the regions of Pyeongyang, the cultural influence of the Han dynasty is reflected in figures dressed in Chinese-style attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.
According to Samuel Lee, the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:
"[Goguryeo] Murals also show that both men and women wore chima. The type worn by both for formal occasions was sang and that worn only by women was goon, which had long and wide dimensions. The origin of durumagi, the long outer coat worn over a jeogori, goes back to the Goguryeo period. The durumagi emanates form the long coat worn by northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times. The long coat [worn by northern Chinese] reached mid-calf and had bindings similar to those used for jeogori. Later, this [long coat] was adopted by the Goguryeo upper class in various forms for ceremonies and rituals, and the modified form worn by the general populace came to be known as durumagi.
However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:
Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from Gamsinchong (龕神塚), the ancient durumagi worn by the owner of Gamsinchong tomb was red (or purple) in colour:
[The tomb of the owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
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