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Edgars (department store)
Edgars (department store)
Edgars (department store)
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Edgars is a South African chain of department stores, with locations throughout Southern Africa. Founded in 1929, it is headquartered in Johannesburg.

Key Information

The chain has around 200 stores across South Africa, Namibia, Zambia and Botswana as well as in the capital cities of eSwatini, Lesotho, and Ghana. Formerly owned by Edcon, the company was sold to Durban-based private fashion company Retailability in 2020, when the former went into liquidation.[1]

History

[edit]

Edgars was founded in Johannesburg, South Africa in 1929, by brothers Morris and Eli Ross.[2] The company was named after London-based department store Swan & Edgar.[2] Eli Ross opened his first Edgars store in Joubert Street.[2]

The company relocated to Cape Town in 1929, before returning to Johannesburg in 1937.[2] 1979 saw the company open its new head office called Edgardale and a distribution centre at Crown Mines.[2] South African Breweries would purchase Edcon in 1982.[2]

As part of Edcon, Edgars was included in an ill-fated buyout by U.S. private equity firm Bain Capital Private Equity LP in 2007, which burdened the owner with debt just as the economy suffered from the Great Recession after the 2008 financial crisis.

In 2014 Edgars opened at a new 50,000 square meter shopping centre in Nairobi, Kenya.[3] In 2018 Edgars introduced a new, larger 8,000 square meter store in Fourways Mall in Johannesburg, featuring trees, play areas, a coffee shop, “beauty rooms” where customers can get makeovers, and a section that allows customers to print their own text or images on clothing. Edgars promoted the new prototype store design as "a bit like a town square, a multi-sensory, tree-lined central social space".[4]

In January 2020 it announced it would close its 6,000 square meter store in the upscale Rosebank Mall in Johannesburg suburb Rosebank.[5]

In June 2020 Edcon put the chain up for sale due to economic difficulties stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic.[6] On 7 July 2020 it was announced that Edcon has signed an agreement to sell the chain to Durban-based Retailability, which operated 460 stores across Southern Africa and was the owner of brands Legit, which Edcon had sold to Retailability four years prior,[7][8] Beaver Canoe (Swagga), and Style. Retailability acquired 130 of 194 Edgars stores.[9]

In September of the same year, the company under the new leadership announced that it was repositioning Edgars as a mass market brand focused on fashion and beauty products, shifting from its previous higher end fashion and homeware portfolio.[10]

In 2025, Edgars downsized a number of its South African stores, as part of its plans to reduce rentals and increase profitability.[11]

References

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Edgars (department store)

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from Grokipedia
Edgars is a leading South African chain specializing in , , , , accessories, and homeware, with a history spanning nearly a century and operations across . Founded on 6 September 1929 by brothers Morris and Eli Ross on Joubert Street in , the retailer was named after the renowned store Swan and Edgar, reflecting its aspiration to bring accessible style to South African consumers. From its inception, Edgars pioneered innovative retail practices, including the introduction of a "six-months-to-pay" system in 1929, which helped it thrive during the and establish a loyal customer base. Under the leadership of Sydney Press starting in 1935, Edgars expanded rapidly, listing on the Johannesburg Stock Exchange in 1946 and diversifying into men's, children's, and women's apparel, as well as footwear, fabrics, and jewelry by the mid-20th century. By 1960, the chain operated 140 stores, doubling to over 280 by 1965, and extended its reach internationally, entering in 1949 and other neighboring markets. The company achieved significant milestones, such as reaching ZAR 2 billion in sales by 1990, while becoming a in South Africa's retail landscape. In more recent decades, Edgars faced economic challenges, including the 2007 acquisition by and the impacts of the , leading to business rescue proceedings for its parent company in 2020. Acquired by Retailability in July 2020, the brand underwent repositioning as a mass-market retailer, operating approximately 100 stores focused on value-driven products in malls across and neighboring countries, as of 2025. As of 2025, Edgars continues under Retailability's ownership following Pepkor's acquisition of other Retailability brands, with ongoing efforts to optimize store footprints and enhance online offerings amid a dynamic retail environment.

History

Founding and early expansion

Edgars was founded on 6 September 1929 by brothers Morris and Eli Ross in , , at a time when the global economy was reeling from the onset of the . The inaugural store opened as a modest retail outlet on Joubert Street, offering clothing at affordable prices targeted toward working-class customers. The name "Edgars" drew inspiration from the renowned British department store Swan & Edgar on London's , reflecting the founders' vision to emulate a similar upscale yet accessible retail model in the South African context. In the early years, the company navigated economic challenges through strategic relocations and initial expansions. In 1935, Edgars shifted its primary operations to , where Sydney Press joined as a temporary employee and later played a pivotal role in its development. The first branch store opened in 1937 on Eloff Street in , followed by additional outlets in Springs, Benoni, , and by the late 1930s and into the 1940s, emphasizing quality apparel for everyday consumers amid post-Depression recovery. The 1940s marked a period of innovation and accelerated growth for Edgars. In 1944, the company launched South Africa's first mail-order catalogue, expanding access to its products beyond urban centers under the leadership of Basil Press. Eli Ross introduced a pioneering "six-months-to-pay" system during a spring sale shortly after founding, enabling broader customer participation in retail purchasing. By 1950, Edgars had grown to nearly 20 stores, including its first international branch in (now ) in 1949, which extended its footprint across regional borders. During the , the chain earned international acclaim for its innovative store designs, becoming the first South African to receive such recognition and solidifying its reputation for modern retail excellence.

Growth under major ownership

In 1982, (SAB) acquired control of , marking a pivotal shift that integrated the retailer into what would become the Group and initiated a period of accelerated expansion under new management led by CEO Vic Hammond. This acquisition ended the long tenure of long-time leader Sydney Press and positioned Edgars within SAB's broader retail portfolio, enabling access to greater capital and strategic resources for modernization and growth. The company, operating as Edgars Stores Limited, emphasized its format, offering a wide range of clothing, accessories, footwear, and household goods to middle-class consumers across urban and suburban areas. Under SAB's ownership, Edgars experienced rapid store proliferation, building on its pre-existing network to exceed locations by the mid-1980s and surpassing 520 stores by 1995, with a total retail space of over 643,000 square meters. This expansion included the launch of third-generation flagship stores starting in 1983, featuring enhanced layouts and customer amenities to solidify its presence in South Africa's competitive retail landscape. By 1990, annual sales had approached ZAR 2 billion, reflecting robust and operational efficiencies that established Edgars as a dominant player in casualwear and apparel retailing in . Key developments during this era included the introduction of private-label brands in the late and , which allowed Edgars to offer affordable, exclusive merchandise tailored to local tastes, enhancing customer loyalty through initiatives like the Edgars Club credit account. In the 1990s, the company extended its footprint beyond into neighboring markets, opening stores in , , , and Swaziland to capture regional demand for quality and home essentials. These international ventures contributed to sales exceeding ZAR 4.2 billion by 1995, underscoring Edgars' evolution into a pan-regional powerhouse. Edgars solidified its market position as Southern Africa's leading casualwear retailer during this period, innovating with in-store beauty counters through the 1996 launch of the cosmetics boutique format, which integrated luxury beauty products into the traditional experience. This move, alongside complementary small-format outlets like Accessoreyes for , diversified offerings and appealed to a broader demographic, reinforcing Edgars' reputation for accessible yet aspirational shopping.

Financial crisis and restructuring

In 2007, , the parent company of Edgars, underwent a highly by U.S. private equity firm for 25 billion rand (approximately $3.5 billion at the time), marking South Africa's largest such deal and saddling the group with substantial debt from the outset. The timing proved challenging, as the acquisition involved issuing 1.83 billion euros in high-yield bonds just before the 2008 global financial crisis, exacerbating debt servicing amid a sharp economic downturn that hit consumer spending in . Throughout the 2010s, Edcon grappled with escalating financial pressures, including a total debt load that reached 22.7 billion rand by mid-2014, driven by weak retail performance and woes. This led to operational cutbacks, with the group closing more than 200 stores across its portfolio by 2018 as part of cost-saving measures, alongside layoffs to streamline operations amid declining sales. By 2019, despite prior efforts, Edcon's debt had ballooned to over 20 billion rand, prompting a major recapitalization involving a 2.7 billion rand infusion from lenders, landlords, and the , which included a debt-for-equity swap to eliminate interest-bearing obligations. As part of this , Edcon partially divested international assets, including the sale of trademarks for brands like Edgars and Jet in the territory to Edgars Stores Limited for $1.5 million in March 2019, and its 41% stake in the Zimbabwean entity to a Mauritius-based in September 2019. The intensified these vulnerabilities, with South Africa's strict 2020 causing an estimated 2 billion rand loss in sales for and depleting cash reserves, as non-essential stores like Edgars remained shuttered for nearly five weeks. On April 29, 2020, entered business rescue proceedings—a form of protection—to avert imminent threats from creditors and halt supplier payments, focusing efforts on preserving core South African operations while exploring asset sales. This process reduced the Edgars store network from approximately 200 outlets in 2018 to around 131 by the time of its eventual divestiture in 2020, reflecting broader portfolio rationalization.

Repositioning and recent developments

In July 2020, Durban-based Retailability Proprietary Limited acquired 130 Edgars stores and the brand from the insolvent Group for an undisclosed sum, marking a pivotal shift in the retailer's strategy. This transaction enabled Edgars to reposition itself as a mass-market and retailer, narrowing its focus to apparel, , and . The acquisition preserved approximately 4,000 jobs and allowed Retailability, previously known for brands like Legit, to integrate Edgars into its portfolio of value-oriented outlets. Post-acquisition innovations emphasized customer experience and retail. The 2018 launch of Edgars' flagship experiential store at in , spanning 8,000 square meters with features like rooms, play areas, and integrated digital displays, served as a model that was refined after 2020 to incorporate enhanced and -focused zones aligned with the new positioning. Concurrently, Edgars relaunched its platform on edgars.co.za in late October 2020, offering for and products with options for click-and-collect and delivery, which has since supported broader amid shifting behaviors. In March 2025, Retailability announced the sale of select adult clothing brands—Legit, Swagga, and Style—to Holdings for R1.7 billion (approximately $98 million), integrating 462 stores across and four other Southern African countries into Pepkor's portfolio while retaining Edgars, Edgars Beauty, , Kelso, and Keedo. The deal, completed on November 2, 2025, allowed Retailability to concentrate resources on Edgars as its , prompting subsequent downsizing of underperforming n stores, including reductions in floor space at major sites like from 12,000 to 5,500 square meters. As of November 2025, Edgars continues its transition under Retailability, prioritizing digital sales expansion through edgars.co.za and app integrations to drive growth in an improving economic environment, alongside targeted store optimizations for profitability.

Corporate affairs

Ownership and governance

Edgars is wholly owned by Retailability Proprietary Limited, a privately held Durban-based retail group that acquired the department store chain as a in 2020 following the business rescue and of its previous parent company, Limited. Retailability operates Edgars alongside other brands such as Edgars Beauty, , Kelso, and Keedo, maintaining its focus on affordable apparel and lifestyle products across . Governance of Edgars is managed through Retailability's executive leadership and board, with Norman Drieselmann serving as CEO of Retailability since the 2020 acquisition and overseeing strategic direction for Edgars. As a private entity, detailed board composition is not publicly disclosed, but leadership emphasizes operational efficiency and market adaptation in the post-acquisition phase. Edgars has no public listing, having been delisted alongside in 2007 prior to subsequent ownership changes. Retailability adheres to the South African Companies Act of 2008, ensuring compliance with standards for private companies, including annual financial reporting and director duties. Shareholder structure remains private, with no majority external investor disclosed as of late 2025, though the company has pursued strategic divestitures of non-core to streamline operations around Edgars.

Organizational structure

Edgars maintains its headquarters in , , with operational support through regional presence in key cities such as and following its integration into the Retailability group in 2020. The company's key divisions include , which handles sourcing for and products; operations, responsible for store management across its network; and dedicated digital and e-commerce teams that drive online sales and initiatives. functions are managed independently, leveraging group-level efficiencies for and distribution. Management is structured with a CEO overseeing the C-suite, including roles such as CFO and CMO, while regional managers supervise store clusters in different provinces to ensure localized execution. As of 2025, Edgars employs approximately 5,000 staff following post-acquisition downsizing. Since its 2020 acquisition by Retailability, Edgars has evolved toward a more agile structure, emphasizing digital transformation and data-driven approaches to inventory management for enhanced responsiveness in the retail market.

Financial performance

Following its acquisition by Retailability in July 2020 amid Edcon's , Edgars demonstrated a recovery in revenue, achieving 12.5% growth in the financial year ending around mid-2023, supported by 5.5% comparable sales growth across its operations. This upturn was driven in part by a strategic emphasis on , with the online platform launched in July 2021 experiencing faster growth than traditional brick-and-mortar sales by 2024. Profitability returned to positive territory by 2022, with net profits doubling from 2021 levels in the subsequent year through 2023, reflecting profit growth across all store formats in the nine months prior to early 2024. These gains stemmed from operational efficiencies, including an 18,000 reduction in store space and the closure of three underperforming locations, alongside resilient unit sales from targeted price adjustments. Key challenges persisted, including high inflation and volatility, which constrained and exerted pressure on retail margins during 2023 and 2024. In November 2025, Retailability completed the sale of select brands (excluding Edgars) to for R1.7 billion, injecting capital that supports ongoing recovery efforts, such as potential debt reduction and store optimizations. As a private entity under Retailability, Edgars' detailed annual financials are not publicly filed but are integrated into parent company reporting, with emphasis in announcements on from efficiency measures like rent negotiations and merchandise enhancements. This approach follows the challenges of the under prior ownership.

Operations

Products and services

Edgars primarily offers a range of for women, men, and children, encompassing , , and , alongside an extensive selection of products including makeup, skincare, fragrances, and accessories. These offerings cater to mass-market consumers following the company's repositioning as a and beauty-focused retailer. Beauty products are available through in-house initiatives like Edgars Beauty and partner brands such as , which specializes in cosmetics, perfumes, and grooming essentials from international labels including , Estée Lauder, and MAC. operates as a dedicated beauty destination within Edgars stores, emphasizing premium and accessible beauty solutions. The company features private labels such as Free2BU for everyday apparel, alongside exclusive lines that provide affordable, mid-tier options without including homeware categories post-repositioning. Edgars has retained select acquired brands like Kelso and Keedo for , integrating them into its family-oriented product mix. Key services include the Edgars Account Card, a facility offering interest-free payment plans of 3 or 6 months for in-store and online purchases, as well as revolving over 24 or 36 months, usable at partner retailers like Pick n Pay and . The Edgars Club rewards members with Thank U Points earned on purchases (10 base points per R1 spent, or 15 for account card holders), redeemable for vouchers, alongside exclusive perks in entertainment, dining, health, , and travel. Expansion in services features in-store consultations and complimentary makeup applications at select Edgars Beauty counters. Edgars emphasizes increasing local sourcing from South African suppliers, with initiatives like sustainable cotton programs supporting ethical and domestic job growth, targeting higher percentages of locally produced apparel by 2025.

Store network in South Africa

Edgars operates approximately 108 stores across as of November 2025, a reduction from 131 locations at the time of its acquisition by Retailability in 2020. This downsizing reflects a strategic focus on optimizing the network amid economic pressures, with total floor space trimmed to around 420,000 square meters by early 2025 and further reductions of 40,000 square meters planned to concentrate on high-traffic urban areas. The store formats include traditional department stores averaging about 4,000 square meters, smaller standalone Edgars Beauty outlets, and experiential stores featuring interactive zones such as beauty rooms and play areas to enhance . Prominent examples are located in major urban malls, including the at in and in . Geographically, the network is concentrated in province with 45 stores (about 42% of the total), followed by (13 stores), (9 stores), (7 stores), (8 stores), North West (6 stores), (11 stores), Free State (3 stores), and (5 stores). In 2025, Edgars closed around 20 underperforming sites, primarily in lower-traffic areas, to prioritize high-footfall malls and support long-term viability. Store operations typically run from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. on weekdays, with extended or adjusted hours on weekends depending on mall policies, emphasizing integration through services like click-and-collect available at all locations. This approach allows customers to order online and pick up in-store, bridging physical and digital retail channels.

International presence

Edgars maintains a presence in four Southern African countries outside South Africa: Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, and eSwatini. As of 2025, the company operates 14 stores across these markets, with seven in Namibia (including locations in Windhoek, Swakopmund, Walvis Bay, and Oshakati), four in Botswana (primarily in Gaborone and Maun), two in eSwatini (Mbabane and Manzini), and one in Lesotho (Maseru). The company's international footprint has contracted in recent years. A brief entry into Kenya occurred in 2014 with the opening of a store in Nairobi's Two Rivers Mall, but no active locations are currently listed, indicating limited or ceased operations there. Similarly, stores in Zambia were closed in 2020 amid financial challenges, eliminating the company's presence in that market. Edgars' historical ties to Zimbabwe date back to the opening of its first store in in 1946. Edcon, the former South African parent company, held a 56% stake in the local subsidiary until 2019, when it divested during its . Edgars Stores Limited in became fully independent in 2020, acquiring separate brand rights and operating 27 stores without ongoing affiliation to the South African entity. Under Retailability's ownership since 2020, Edgars' expansion strategy emphasizes consolidation within , with no entries into new countries since 2020 and a focus on optimizing existing operations through shared supply chains for efficiency. International stores contribute to overall , though they face challenges from currency fluctuations in regional markets.

References

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