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Jan Hojer
Jan Hojer
Jan Hojer
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Hojer competing at the World Cup, Munich, 2015

Key Information

Hojer, 2015
Hojer second at the World Cup 2015

Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015.[1]

In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering.[1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wrocław, Poland.

Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.

In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse.[2] Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.

Rock climbing

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He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of 8C (V15). In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at 9a+ (5.15a).

Results

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Climbing World Cup

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Discipline[3] 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Lead 22 22 43 - - - - 33 - 17
Bouldering - - - 33 20 8 1 2 9 7
Speed - - - - - - - - - 29
Combined - - - - - - - 5 - 7

Climbing World Championships

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Discipline[1] 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018
Lead 30 - - 30 - 29
Bouldering 39 46 5 3 27 9
Speed - - - 30 - 33
Combined - - - 2 - 3

Climbing European Championships

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Discipline[1] 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 41 - - 21
Bouldering - 20 1 1
Speed - - - 23
Combined - - - 1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

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Bouldering

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Season[1] Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 1 1
2013 1 1 2
2014 3 2 5
2015 1 1
2016 1 1
2017 1 1
2018 0
2019 1 1
Total 6 4 2 12

Rock climbing

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Redpointed routes

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9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Pati noso - Siurana (ESP) - April 27, 2011
  • Bah Bah Black Sheep - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2010

Boulder problems

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8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

  • Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.[8]
  • Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."[9]

References

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Jan Hojer

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber known for his dominance in bouldering competitions during the 2010s and his participation in the inaugural Olympic climbing event at Tokyo 2020. Born in Cologne in 1992, he began climbing at age 10 and entered international youth competitions in lead climbing before shifting his focus to bouldering around 2011–2012. This transition proved highly successful, as he quickly rose to prominence in the IFSC circuit, winning the Boulder World Cup overall title in 2014, securing multiple stage victories, and claiming European Championship gold medals in bouldering in 2015 and 2017, as well as in the combined format in 2017. Hojer's versatility extended to the combined discipline (bouldering, lead, and speed), where he earned bronze at the 2018 World Championships and finished fourth at the 2021 World Championships, contributing to his qualification for the Tokyo Olympics, in which he placed 12th in the men's combined event. Beyond indoor competition, he has achieved notable outdoor successes, including redpointing the historic route Action Directe (9a) in 2010 and ascending several 8C boulder problems. Over his career, Hojer has been recognized as one of the world's top boulderers and a consistent performer in major championships.

Early life

Birth and background

Jan Hojer was born on February 9, 1992, in Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. He holds German nationality and is associated with the Cologne region.

Introduction to climbing

Jan Hojer began climbing at the age of 10, around 2002. Born in Cologne, Germany, on February 9, 1992, he grew up in the nearby town of Frechen and was introduced to the sport in the local German climbing scene. His early experiences centered on learning the fundamentals of climbing in Germany's climbing facilities during his youth. He soon transitioned to competitive climbing.

Climbing career

Early competitions and rise to prominence

Jan Hojer began his competitive climbing career at a young age in his hometown of Cologne, Germany, where he was born in 1992. He started competing in German youth competitions in lead climbing in 2004, where his potential first became evident. By this time, he had already been climbing since the age of 10, building a foundation that would support his development through junior categories. In his youth career, Hojer achieved significant success at the international level, securing four victories in the European Youth Cup. These results, combined with strong performances in national youth events, marked him as a talented prospect within the German climbing community under the Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV). Hojer transitioned to senior-level competitions around 2008, initially focusing on lead climbing and participating in the Lead Climbing World Cup for three seasons through 2010. These years did not yield the results he sought, prompting a strategic shift to bouldering. The change quickly paid dividends, as he achieved a fifth-place finish at the Bouldering World Championships in the year following his switch. This breakthrough positioned him among the top competitors internationally and laid the groundwork for his emergence as one of Germany's leading climbers.

Professional outdoor climbing

Jan Hojer has engaged in professional outdoor climbing throughout his career, complementing his dominant focus on competition climbing. As a member of the Mammut Pro Team, he has participated in outdoor projects, including repeats of classic routes in areas such as the Franconian Jura. This affiliation has supported his outdoor activities with sponsorship for gear and expeditions. His approach to outdoor climbing has often reflected his competition background, emphasizing powerful, dynamic movements and dynos that align with his bouldering style on the World Cup circuit. While his competition achievements span from youth to senior levels until his retirement from competitions in 2022, outdoor climbing has remained a parallel pursuit, allowing him to apply his strength and technique to natural rock environments. Hojer's outdoor efforts have included high-level bouldering and sport climbing, as well as deep-water soloing, though these have been less numerous compared to his extensive competition record. He has balanced the structured training and pressure of competitions with the freedom and adventure of outdoor climbing, contributing to his reputation as a versatile professional climber.

Competition career

Bouldering World Cup results

Jan Hojer won the overall IFSC Bouldering World Cup series in 2014, securing the season title through consistent high placements and event performances. In 2015, he finished second in the overall Bouldering World Cup standings, narrowly missing the top spot in a competitive season. Among his notable event results, he claimed victory at the Vail Bouldering World Cup in 2015, demonstrating his strength on diverse boulder problems. Across his Bouldering World Cup career, Hojer accumulated multiple podium finishes, including 6 gold, 4 silver, and 2 bronze medals in bouldering-specific events. These results established him as one of the leading competitors on the international bouldering circuit during his peak years.

World and European Championships

Jan Hojer achieved notable success in the IFSC Climbing European Championships and World Championships, particularly in the bouldering and combined disciplines. He won gold in the men's bouldering event at the 2015 European Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, topping the final with 2 tops in 3 attempts and 4 bonuses in 5 attempts. At the 2017 European Championships in Munich, Germany, he secured gold in both bouldering and combined. In the IFSC Climbing World Championships, Hojer earned a bronze medal in men's bouldering at the 2014 event in Munich, Germany. He placed 4th in combined at the 2021 World Championships in Moscow. He added another bronze in the men's combined event at the 2018 World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, placing third overall behind Jakob Schubert and Adam Ondra. Hojer also competed in other editions without reaching the podium, including 11th in bouldering, 33rd in lead, 35th in speed, and 17th in combined at the 2019 World Championships in Hachioji, Japan. These championship performances underscored his strength in bouldering-focused formats at major international events.

Olympic and major international events

Jan Hojer represented Germany in sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, where the discipline made its Olympic debut as a combined event incorporating speed, bouldering, and lead. The competition format required athletes to perform in all three disciplines, with the final ranking determined by multiplying their positions in each discipline—a lower product indicating a better overall result. Hojer placed 12th overall in the men's combined event. Hojer did not participate in the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.

Notable ascents

Sport climbing routes

Jan Hojer has made several significant ascents on high-grade sport climbing routes, particularly 9a routes on steep limestone, complementing his primary reputation in bouldering and competition climbing. His first 9a came with Action Directe in the Frankenjura region of Germany on May 22, 2010, when he was 18 years old. This iconic route, established by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 as the world's first recognized 9a, features extremely powerful and dynamic climbing, including a notorious crux involving a dynamic jump from a one-finger pocket. Hojer later reprised sequences on the route for a Mammut film project focused on reclimbing classics. In late 2018 or early 2019, Hojer achieved his second 9a with A Muerte in Siurana, Spain. He continued to progress on hard sport routes in 2020, sending House of Shock (9a) in the Frankenjura after inspecting it toward the end of a climbing session. Later that year, he completed Der Heilige Gral (9a), also in the Frankenjura, over four days of effort amid unusually dry conditions that added pressure to the send. These ascents demonstrate Hojer's strength on powerful, overhanging sport routes, many concentrated in the Frankenjura where he has frequently trained and climbed.

Bouldering problems

Jan Hojer has established a reputation for hard bouldering ascents, particularly through first ascents in the Fontainebleau region of France, where his powerful style has yielded several problems at the 8C grade. In December 2013, he made the first ascent of Jour de Chasse (~8C) in the Recloses sector, a problem that shares its start with the existing 8C Mécanique élémentaire and was climbed after working Narcotic directe (~8B). A few months later, in March 2014, Hojer achieved another significant first ascent with Le Marathon de Boissy (8C) in the Boissy aux Cailles sector of Fontainebleau, adding to his contributions at the upper limit of the bouldering grade scale. His maximum confirmed boulder grade remains 8C, demonstrated through these first ascents as well as repeats of other elite problems such as Quoi de Neuf (V15/8C) in Fontainebleau during 2017. These outdoor achievements reflect the dynamic power he developed through competition bouldering.

Media appearances

Documentaries and films

Jan Hojer has appeared in climbing-focused documentaries and short films, primarily showcasing his bouldering in Fontainebleau. In the 2014 bouldering documentary Out of Sight II, directed by Neil Hart, Hojer appears as himself among elite climbers including Nalle Hukkataival, Jimmy Webb, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Ashima Shiraishi, and Lisa Chulich, tackling some of the hardest and lesser-known boulder problems hidden deep in Fontainebleau's forest. The 52-minute film emphasizes the area's underappreciated world-class boulders that see little traffic despite their quality. He is also the central figure in the 2014 short portrait film KINETIC, directed by Haroun Souirji, which includes background on his climbing origins alongside footage of him climbing indoors and in Fontainebleau. The video highlights his first ascent of the boulder problem Jour de chasse in Fontainebleau.

Television programs

Jan Hojer has appeared as himself on several German television programs, primarily in sports and competition formats that showcased his climbing prowess and athletic versatility. He is credited with three appearances on the obstacle course competition series Ninja Warrior Germany between 2016 and 2019. Two of these occurred during the inaugural 2016 season, where he competed as a prominent participant and was regarded as one of the top favorites due to his background in professional climbing. His third appearance in 2019 featured archive footage in an episode highlighting the show's phenomenon. Hojer also featured as a guest on the long-running regional sports magazine Sport im Dritten in 2018 and on the entertainment talk show TV total in 2015, both times appearing as himself.

Personal life and retirement

Personal details

Jan Hojer was born on February 9, 1992, in Cologne, Germany. He holds German nationality and has been associated with Cologne throughout his life. Public information about his family, relationships, or interests outside of climbing remains limited, as he has not shared extensive details in available interviews or profiles. Climbing has served as a central focus in his life since childhood.

End of competitive career

In May 2023, Jan Hojer definitively ended his competitive climbing career after initially planning a comeback for the season. He had been nominated for the IFSC World Cup in Hachioji but withdrew his participation shortly before the event on his own initiative, marking the final conclusion of his time in international competitions. Hojer had not competed in any World Cup events since 2022. Over the course of his career, Hojer secured 16 German championship titles, including four in youth categories. He accumulated 14 podium finishes across World Cups and World Championships, with six gold, four silver, and four bronze medals, alongside two European Championship titles in bouldering. His achievements also included four overall victories in the Youth European Cup, a 12th-place finish at the Olympic debut of sport climbing in Tokyo 2020, and a total of 69 top-10 placements in international events. The Deutscher Alpenverein recognized him as the most successful German climber upon his farewell from the competitive scene.

References

  1. https://www.olympics.com/en/athletes/jan-hojer
  2. https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/athlete/3422/jan-hojer
  3. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/athletes/jan-hojer-6623
  4. https://www.imdb.com/name/nm6958901/
  5. https://www.ksta.de/sport/koelner-profi-kletterer-jan-hojer-die-haut-an-den-fingern-ist-irgendwann-durch-146020
  6. https://www.outdoor-magazin.com/klettern/ich-trainiere-nur-selten-mehr-als-15-stunden-pro-woche-jan-hojer-im-interview/
  7. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/olympics/2020/athletes/jan-hojer-6623
  8. https://www.famousbirthdays.com/people/jan-hojer.html
  9. https://sasukepedia.fandom.com/wiki/Jan_Hojer
  10. https://www.lacrux.com/en/competition/kim-marschner-and-jan-hojer-end-their-careers-in-competitions/
  11. https://climbing-history.org/climber/650/jan-hojer
  12. https://vimeo.com/96055364
  13. https://www.outdoorsportswire.com/tag/pro/
  14. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07dmwivNcBk
  15. https://www.worldclimbing.com/athlete/3422/jan-hojer
  16. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/competitions/european-boulder-championships-complete-report.html
  17. https://www.climbing.com/news/results-2018-ifsc-climbing-world-championships/
  18. https://olympics.com/en/olympic-games/tokyo-2020/results/sport-climbing/men-s-combined
  19. https://olympics.com/en/athletes/jan-hojer
  20. https://www.8a.nu/news/action-directe-the-first-9a-and-the-most-famous-route-in-the-world
  21. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/05/action_directe_reclimbed-68938
  22. https://www.8a.nu/news/a-muerte-9a-by-jan-hojer
  23. https://www.8a.nu/news/house-of-shock-9a-by-jan-hojer
  24. https://www.8a.nu/news/9a-by-jan-and-8c-by-molly
  25. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/12/jour_de_chasse_new_8c_by_hojer-68573
  26. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/le_marathon_de_boissy_8c_first_ascent_by_hojer-68766
  27. https://gripped.com/profiles/jan-hojer-climbs-quoi-de-neuf-v15/
  28. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4256748/
  29. https://letterboxd.com/film/out-of-sight-ii/
  30. https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/out-of-sight-ii-2014
  31. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/kinetic_-_jan_hojer-69146
  32. https://imdb.com/title/tt11300482/characters/nm6958901/?ref_=tt_cst_c_6
  33. https://kletterszene.com/news/kim-marschner-und-jan-hojer-beenden-wettkampfkarriere/
  34. https://www.kicker.de/hojer-und-marschner-beenden-ihre-wettkampf-karrieren-951126/artikel
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