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Russia leather

Russia leather (Russian: юфть or yuft) is a particular form of bark-tanned cow leather. It is distinguished from other types of leather by a processing step that takes place after tanning, where birch oil is worked into the rear face of the leather. This produces a leather that is hard-wearing, flexible and resistant to water. The oil impregnation also deters insect damage. This leather was a major export good from Russia in the 17th and 18th centuries because of its high quality, its usefulness for a range of purposes, and the difficulty of replicating its manufacture elsewhere. It was an important item of trade for the Muscovy Company. In German-speaking countries, this leather was also known by the name Juchten or Juften.

Producing the leather involved three processes:

The tanning process was unexceptional amongst other vegetable tanning processes using tree bark. It followed the usual steps of long soaking and cleaning in water, liming to remove hair, and then the tanning itself.

Tanning steeps the leather in a solution of tanbark for around five weeks, with twice daily agitation and weekly replacement of the 'tan', or tanning solution. A great quantity of tanbark is required, around 2,880 litres for 150 hides.

The tanbark used in Russia was sourced from Salix repens. However, in Siberia the more readily available bast (dark inner bark, beneath the papery bark) of the birch tree was used; it was also reported that spruce bark would be equally effective.

The oiling process is what really distinguishes Russia leather from others. Birch oil is applied to the flesh side of the leather, soaking through completely and saturating the leather entirely. Care is taken that it is only applied to one side of the leather, keeping it away from the grain side to avoid discolouration and poor dyeing later. Seal oil is also reported to have been used.

The production of Russia leather is thus a currying or curing process, more than merely tanning.

Production of 'degot' , the birch oil or birch tar for leathermaking was a specialist craft and practised by only a few villages that then supplied other leathermaking sites. It was a partial pyrolysis and distillation process, similar to the making of turpentine.

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