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Ternate

Ternate (Indonesian pronunciation: [t̪ərˈnat̪e]), also known as the City of Ternate (Indonesian: Kota Ternate; Indonesian pronunciation: [ˌkot̪a t̪ərˈnat̪e]), is the city with the largest population in the province of North Maluku and an island in the Maluku Islands, Indonesia. It was the de facto provincial capital of North Maluku before Sofifi on the nearby coast of Halmahera became the capital in 2010. It is off the west coast of Halmahera, and is composed of five islands: Ternate, the biggest and main island of the city, and Moti, Hiri, Tifure and Mayau (the latter two constitute the Batang Dua Islands, together with the small ofshore islets of Makka, Mano and Gurida). In total, the city has a land area of 162.20 square kilometres and had a total population of 185,705 according to the 2010 census, and 205,001 according to the 2020 census, with a density of 1,264 people per square kilometre; the official estimate as at mid 2024 was 210,836 (comprising 104,128 males and 100,792 females in 2023). It is the biggest and most densely populated city in the province, as well as the economic, cultural, and education center of North Maluku, and acts as a hub to neighbouring regions. It was the capital of the Sultanate of Ternate in the 15th and 16th centuries, and fought against the Sultanate of Tidore over control of the spice trade in the Moluccas before becoming a main interest to competing European powers.

Maluku is mentioned in Nagarakretagama. The term originally denoted the spice-producing islands of North Maluku, of which Ternate became the dominant one. The Ternate Kingdom was previously known as the Kingdom of Gapi. Moluccan tradition says that there was an exodus of people moving out of Halmahera around 1250 due to political conflicts.:4 The settlement founded by people from Halmahera was first situated close on the hillside of the Gamalama mountain and named Tobona. During this time, Tobona was ruled by a tribal chief with the title of Momole.:4 This period was characterized by several smaller tribal settlements around Gamalama which were founded afterwards, such as Foramadiahi being established further downhill, while Sampalu, and Gamlamo were founded along the coast. These settlements also had their own Momole and were nominally independent from each other.:4

In 1257, Tobona gathered all the Momole from other villages for a meeting, who all agreed to choose Cico, the chief of Sampalu village, as the collective ruler of Ternate. Cico may correspond to Kaicil Mashur Malamo, who was the first ruler according to other traditions and was a son of the Arab Jafar Sadik, who is claimed to be the father of the founding kings of Ternate, Tidore, Bacan and Jailolo. This political four-division had a great symbolic role. Cico replaced his title with Kolano, which means "king".:4 The capital of the kingdom was first in Sampalu village, but moved to Formadiahi during the reign of Kaicil Siale (1284–1298).:4 Under Kaicil Ngara Malamo (1304–1317), Ternate expanded its influence and conquered neighbouring islands.:5 Ngara Malamo was succeeded by Patsyarangan Malamo (1317–1322) and later Sidang Arif Malamo (1322–1331). During this time, Ternate started to interact with Chinese and Arab traders, especially from Malacca and Java. Ternate became a major port city and center of the spice trade in the Moluccas region, competing with its rival, Tidore. Some of the foreign traders eventually created the foundations of the Chinese and Arab communities in the city today.:5

Around 1322, Arif Malamo initiated the Moti Agreement, which was a result of discussions between the rulers in Moluccas about trade and standardization of government structures. As a result of this agreement, the Moluccas had relatively peaceful times of over the next twenty years and trade flourished.:6 However, Arif was succeeded by Kaicil Tulu Malamo, who revoked the agreement as he thought it limited his expansionist ambitions. Ternate conquered neighbouring islands like the Sula Islands and Seram Island over the course of the 1400s.:6

In the midst of this expansionist era, Ternate officially became an Islamic sultanate during the reign of Zainal Abidin (1468–1500) and supplemented the Kolano title with that of sultan. It was during this time that a period of Islamization began. Abidin also changed the traditional Moluccan government structure into a more Islamic one, including the foundation of the Jolabe, a council made up of Islamic clerics that would advise the sultan on religious matters. This structural and titular change was also adopted by Tidore and Bacan.:7

Ternate and Tidore were the world's major producer of cloves, from which their rulers became among the wealthiest and most powerful sultans in the Indonesian region. Much of their wealth was used to fight each other. Until the Dutch completed the colonization of Maluku in the 19th century, the sultans of Ternate ruled an empire that periodically claimed at least nominal influence in magnitude as Ambon, Sulawesi, and Papua.

The peak of the Ternate sultanate's power came near the end of the 16th century under Sultan Baabullah, when it exerted influence over most of the eastern part of Sulawesi, the Ambon and Ceram area, the Banda Islands, Solor Islands, Mindanao, and parts of Papua. It engaged in a fierce competition for control of its periphery with Tidore. According to historian Leonard Andaya, Ternate's "dualistic" rivalry with Tidore was a dominant theme in the early history of the Maluku Islands.

As a result of its trade-dependent culture, Ternate was one of the earliest places in the region to which Islam spread, originating from Java in the late 15th century, though Islamic influence in the area can be traced further back to the late 14th century. The faith was restricted to Ternate's small ruling family before spreading to the rest of the population.

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