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Oes
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Oes
Oes or owes were metallic O-shaped rings or eyelets sewn on to clothes and furnishing textiles for decorative effect. Made of gold, silver, or copper, they were used on clothing and furnishing fabrics and were smaller than modern sequins. They were made either from rings of wire or punched out of a sheet of metal.
Robert Sharp obtained a patent to make gold oes and spangles (another early variety of sequin) in 1575. They were also made from silver and copper. Oes were made either from rings of wire wound around a dowel, or by punching flat rings out of a sheet of metal.
Goldsmiths including Cornelis Hayes made spangles for the court. Spangles or "spangs" were mentioned in connection with head dresses worn by the maids of honour, set on wires and known as "hanging spangles". Garments, especially the foreparts of skirts, were listed in Elizabeth's inventories decorated with both spangles and oes, and there may not always have been a clear distinction.
Policy makers worried about the supply of precious metal bullion and restricted the making of gold and silver oes and similar products by patent to the Company of Wire Drawers. In July 1624, their manufacture was forbidden for a time.
Some London hat band makers were prosecuted and fined in 1631 for the fraud of using gilt copper oes and claiming their wares employed only gold oes and thread. Imitation silver or gold oes sold openly were called "counterfeit oes" or "Alchemy oes", and appear as "Olcamee oes" in the 1643 inventory of a Worcestershire mercer Thomas Cowcher. Thomas Knyvett sent his wife and Aunt Bell 12 ounces of counterfeit oes and oes of "right silver" in paper wraps in 1623. He offered to buy oes of a different size if required. There were three kinds of oes available. A paper of oes contained 40 oes weighing 2 ounces.
Oes were used to decorate hairnets called "crespines" or "crippins", an item of clothing worn by women of the Tudor court and Elizabeth I. Some of her doublets were decorated with "squares of silver owes". An inventory of 1626 mentions a white satin crippin embroidered with gold oes and a green satin crippin with silver oes. As a New Year Day's gift in January 1600, Dorothy Speckard and her husband gave Queen Elizabeth a head veil of striped network, flourished with carnation silk and embroidered with oes.
Norwich tailor Edmund Peckover, in his very long and detailed 1592 bill to Nathaniel Bacon of Stiffkey, Norfolk, charged xjs iijd (11 shillings and 3 pence) for an ounce and a half of oes to decorate three ladies gowns and/or stomachers; 5 shillings and 6 pence for three-quarters of an ounce of silver oes for a ladies gown; and eight shillings for an ounce of silver oes for another gown. Gold or gold-coloured oes were 7 shilling and sixpence the ounce.
Edmund Palmer embroidered a purple satin suit for Prince Henry with silk thread, silver thread, and silver oes. Oes were stitched by embroiderers to form patterns. The Earl of Northampton owned a sweet bag embroidered with knots of silver oes and burning hearts.
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Oes
Oes or owes were metallic O-shaped rings or eyelets sewn on to clothes and furnishing textiles for decorative effect. Made of gold, silver, or copper, they were used on clothing and furnishing fabrics and were smaller than modern sequins. They were made either from rings of wire or punched out of a sheet of metal.
Robert Sharp obtained a patent to make gold oes and spangles (another early variety of sequin) in 1575. They were also made from silver and copper. Oes were made either from rings of wire wound around a dowel, or by punching flat rings out of a sheet of metal.
Goldsmiths including Cornelis Hayes made spangles for the court. Spangles or "spangs" were mentioned in connection with head dresses worn by the maids of honour, set on wires and known as "hanging spangles". Garments, especially the foreparts of skirts, were listed in Elizabeth's inventories decorated with both spangles and oes, and there may not always have been a clear distinction.
Policy makers worried about the supply of precious metal bullion and restricted the making of gold and silver oes and similar products by patent to the Company of Wire Drawers. In July 1624, their manufacture was forbidden for a time.
Some London hat band makers were prosecuted and fined in 1631 for the fraud of using gilt copper oes and claiming their wares employed only gold oes and thread. Imitation silver or gold oes sold openly were called "counterfeit oes" or "Alchemy oes", and appear as "Olcamee oes" in the 1643 inventory of a Worcestershire mercer Thomas Cowcher. Thomas Knyvett sent his wife and Aunt Bell 12 ounces of counterfeit oes and oes of "right silver" in paper wraps in 1623. He offered to buy oes of a different size if required. There were three kinds of oes available. A paper of oes contained 40 oes weighing 2 ounces.
Oes were used to decorate hairnets called "crespines" or "crippins", an item of clothing worn by women of the Tudor court and Elizabeth I. Some of her doublets were decorated with "squares of silver owes". An inventory of 1626 mentions a white satin crippin embroidered with gold oes and a green satin crippin with silver oes. As a New Year Day's gift in January 1600, Dorothy Speckard and her husband gave Queen Elizabeth a head veil of striped network, flourished with carnation silk and embroidered with oes.
Norwich tailor Edmund Peckover, in his very long and detailed 1592 bill to Nathaniel Bacon of Stiffkey, Norfolk, charged xjs iijd (11 shillings and 3 pence) for an ounce and a half of oes to decorate three ladies gowns and/or stomachers; 5 shillings and 6 pence for three-quarters of an ounce of silver oes for a ladies gown; and eight shillings for an ounce of silver oes for another gown. Gold or gold-coloured oes were 7 shilling and sixpence the ounce.
Edmund Palmer embroidered a purple satin suit for Prince Henry with silk thread, silver thread, and silver oes. Oes were stitched by embroiderers to form patterns. The Earl of Northampton owned a sweet bag embroidered with knots of silver oes and burning hearts.
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