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Trickle-up fashion
The trickle-up effect in the fashion field, also known as bubble-up pattern, is an innovative fashion theory first described by Paul Blumberg in the 1970s. This effect describes when new trends are found on the streets, showing how innovation flows from the lower class to upper class. It is in contrast with classical theories of fashion consumption, such as those of Georg Simmel and Thorstein Veblen, who theorize that the upper classes are the ones who dictate the fashion flow.
Trickle-down fashion can be seen as the antithesis of the trickle-up effect. Although the trickle-down effect itself has only first appeared in the 1950s, the concept can be traced back to sociologist Georg Simmel and economist Thorstein Veblen.[citation needed] Trickle-down theory describes the inability of the lower social classes to develop fashion style of their own, leaving only the upper social classes to influence the fashion trend. Lower social classes are therefore left to imitate the fashion trend of the rich. In contrast to this, the trickle-up effect describes an upward diffusion in which fashion styles from lower classes are adopted by the upper classes.
In opposition to the downward diffusion of fashion in earlier years, we now encounter a phenomenon in which trends are more likely to be defined by the lower social strata.[citation needed] It was first described by Paul Blumberg during the 1970s in the United States: "[...] there has been in the last decade more percolating up from the bottom than trickling down from the top". Blumberg elaborates on this by stating that a variety of standards in fashion have been set by the déclassé and anti-class youth by using new styles, like long hair or a shabby chic, to not only tease the status symbols of higher classes but also spreading their styles into the fashion elite.
The T-shirt, from the Middle Age to the early 19th century, had traditionally been considered as a piece of undergarment worn by sailors and blue-collar workers.
American actors Marlon Brando and James Dean helped shift the perception of the T-shirt, thanks to their appearance with the garment in popular movies. Brando and Dean helped redefine the T-shirt as legitimate outerwear and a deliberately rebellious fashion statement. The T-shirt appears in collections of both low and high-end brands, due to its versatility and the ease of imposing messages on it. A significant example of the t-shirt as messenger is the "anti-nuclear" T-shirt worn by designer Katharine Hamnett during a meeting with Margaret Thatcher or the piece "We all should be feminists" presented at Dior Fashion show in 2016.
Initially, Levi Strauss' jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by factory workers, miners, farmers, and cattlemen throughout the North American West. After James Dean popularized them in the movie Rebel Without a Cause, wearing jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s. During the 1960s the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear.
Examples of intentional denim distressing strictly to make them more fashionable can be seen as early as 1935 in Vogue's June issue. Michael Belluomo, editor of Sportswear International Magazine, Oct/Nov 1987, P. 45, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East Village, was "the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn effect, and the idea became a hit." He continued, "[Limbo] hired East Village artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals, and other touches, and sold them for $200." In the early 1980s the denim industry introduced the stone-washing technique developed by GWG also known as "Great Western Garment Co." Donald Freeland of Edmonton, Alberta pioneered the method, which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s. Originally an esoteric fashion choice, in the 2010s jeans may be seen being worn by men and women of all ages.
Punk subculture appeared for the first time in the UK in the 1970s. Punk style started as a youth movement, in which the concept of "anti-fashion" was a main feature, due to its origin in the lower classes. Vivienne Westwood was the first designer who used this concept in her collections, which gave her the title "The Mother of Punk". She opened a popular shop in London, which was loved by the celebrities and music stars of the time, including punk band Sex Pistols. Studded chokers, tattoos, chains and ripped jeans were the main features of the punk aesthetic. In 1977, this style started to be widely appreciated thanks to Zandra Rhodes' designs, that added punk elements on elegant gowns: punk chic was born.
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Trickle-up fashion
The trickle-up effect in the fashion field, also known as bubble-up pattern, is an innovative fashion theory first described by Paul Blumberg in the 1970s. This effect describes when new trends are found on the streets, showing how innovation flows from the lower class to upper class. It is in contrast with classical theories of fashion consumption, such as those of Georg Simmel and Thorstein Veblen, who theorize that the upper classes are the ones who dictate the fashion flow.
Trickle-down fashion can be seen as the antithesis of the trickle-up effect. Although the trickle-down effect itself has only first appeared in the 1950s, the concept can be traced back to sociologist Georg Simmel and economist Thorstein Veblen.[citation needed] Trickle-down theory describes the inability of the lower social classes to develop fashion style of their own, leaving only the upper social classes to influence the fashion trend. Lower social classes are therefore left to imitate the fashion trend of the rich. In contrast to this, the trickle-up effect describes an upward diffusion in which fashion styles from lower classes are adopted by the upper classes.
In opposition to the downward diffusion of fashion in earlier years, we now encounter a phenomenon in which trends are more likely to be defined by the lower social strata.[citation needed] It was first described by Paul Blumberg during the 1970s in the United States: "[...] there has been in the last decade more percolating up from the bottom than trickling down from the top". Blumberg elaborates on this by stating that a variety of standards in fashion have been set by the déclassé and anti-class youth by using new styles, like long hair or a shabby chic, to not only tease the status symbols of higher classes but also spreading their styles into the fashion elite.
The T-shirt, from the Middle Age to the early 19th century, had traditionally been considered as a piece of undergarment worn by sailors and blue-collar workers.
American actors Marlon Brando and James Dean helped shift the perception of the T-shirt, thanks to their appearance with the garment in popular movies. Brando and Dean helped redefine the T-shirt as legitimate outerwear and a deliberately rebellious fashion statement. The T-shirt appears in collections of both low and high-end brands, due to its versatility and the ease of imposing messages on it. A significant example of the t-shirt as messenger is the "anti-nuclear" T-shirt worn by designer Katharine Hamnett during a meeting with Margaret Thatcher or the piece "We all should be feminists" presented at Dior Fashion show in 2016.
Initially, Levi Strauss' jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by factory workers, miners, farmers, and cattlemen throughout the North American West. After James Dean popularized them in the movie Rebel Without a Cause, wearing jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s. During the 1960s the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear.
Examples of intentional denim distressing strictly to make them more fashionable can be seen as early as 1935 in Vogue's June issue. Michael Belluomo, editor of Sportswear International Magazine, Oct/Nov 1987, P. 45, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East Village, was "the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn effect, and the idea became a hit." He continued, "[Limbo] hired East Village artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals, and other touches, and sold them for $200." In the early 1980s the denim industry introduced the stone-washing technique developed by GWG also known as "Great Western Garment Co." Donald Freeland of Edmonton, Alberta pioneered the method, which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s. Originally an esoteric fashion choice, in the 2010s jeans may be seen being worn by men and women of all ages.
Punk subculture appeared for the first time in the UK in the 1970s. Punk style started as a youth movement, in which the concept of "anti-fashion" was a main feature, due to its origin in the lower classes. Vivienne Westwood was the first designer who used this concept in her collections, which gave her the title "The Mother of Punk". She opened a popular shop in London, which was loved by the celebrities and music stars of the time, including punk band Sex Pistols. Studded chokers, tattoos, chains and ripped jeans were the main features of the punk aesthetic. In 1977, this style started to be widely appreciated thanks to Zandra Rhodes' designs, that added punk elements on elegant gowns: punk chic was born.