Hubbry Logo
Willy ClarksonWilly ClarksonMain
Open search
Willy Clarkson
Community hub
Willy Clarkson
logo
8 pages, 0 posts
0 subscribers
Be the first to start a discussion here.
Be the first to start a discussion here.
Willy Clarkson
Willy Clarkson
from Wikipedia

William Berry Clarkson (31 March 1861 – 12/13 October 1934)[1][2] was a prominent British theatrical costume designer and wigmaker.

Key Information

Career

[edit]

Clarkson's father had been making wigs since 1833. Willie Clarkson was educated in Paris but left school at the age of twelve to assist in his father's business.[1] He took over the business on the death of his father in 1878[3][4] and expanded into providing theatrical costumes and make-up. His company became very successful, supplying most of the London West End theatres for five decades.[5] He also sold wigs to the public for non-theatrical wear.[4]

A 1900 article in the theatrical newspaper The Era stated:

Not to know Willy Clarkson and his doings is to be out of the theatrical world, for Willy Clarkson, with the bright and easy (though sometimes anxious) manner is ever hovering 'before and behind.' Scarcely any big production in London is undertaken without the aid of the owner of the Wellington-street wiggeries.[4][3]

Starting in 1889,[1] Clarkson's company supplied costumes and wigs used in the amateur dramatic productions of Queen Victoria's family and circle.[6] He provided the wigs for the princesses who were attending the fancy-dress Devonshire House Ball of 1897, and visited Buckingham Palace beforehand to arrange their hair.[6]Edward VII appointed him "Royal Perruquier and Costumier."[5]

Willy Clarkson's premises on Wardour Street, which he built in 1905. Now the Wong Kei restaurant. Photographed in 2015

In 1905, he had new premises built at 41-43 Wardour Street, Soho. Plaques still present on the building record that the foundation stone was laid by Sarah Bernhardt[5] and the coping stone by Sir Henry Irving.[7][5][Note 1] In 1910, Clarkson helped disguise the members of Horace de Vere Cole's Dreadnought hoax (including a young Virginia Woolf) as an Abyssinian royal delegation – this is recorded in Adrian Stephen's 1936 account of the incident.[9]

During World War 1, he supplied realistic papier-mâché heads to Hesketh Hesketh-Prichard – a pioneer of sniping in the British Army. The heads were used in the trenches on the Western Front. A dummy head mounted on a stick would be raised over the lip of a British trench. If a German sniper shot it, the bullet holes would reveal the direction the bullet came from and the location of the German.[10]

In the 1920s, Clarkson was the owner of the Duchess Theatre in Catherin Street.[11] At its peak, his company had over 100 employees and had 50,000 costumes in stock.[5] Clarkson was a well-known figure in theatrical circles. He attended every West End production's first night and knew many of the leading figures, such as Marie Lloyd, Herbert Beerbohm Tree, Dame Nellie Melba and Lillie Langtry. Signed photographs of famous clients covered the walls of his shops.

During his life there were widespread rumours of Clarkson's homosexuality, at that time a crime under the Criminal Law Amendment Act 1885. The public lavatory in Dansey Place, an alley opposite his Wardour Street shop, was known locally as Clarkson's Cottage.[11]

Criminal associations

[edit]

Clarkson claimed to have had among his clients the murderer Hawley Harvey Crippen and his wife and victim Corrine "Cora" Turner, as well as the murderer Ronald True.[5][12] Clarkson also made disguises for detectives from Scotland Yard[3][4] and helped police catch the murderer Herbert John Bennett,[5] who had ordered wigs from him.[13]

A long-standing acquaintance of Clarkson was William Cooper Hobbs; they first met in 1886. Hobbs was initially a solicitor's clerk, but became a notorious, convicted blackmailer.[5] In 1924 Clarkson helped Hobbs attempt to flee Britain when he was facing serious criminal charges. But the attempt failed and Hobbs was arrested at Gravesend while attempting to board a ferry to Rotterdam[14][15] The police found Hobbs was carrying £1500 in cash (equivalent to £110,000 in 2023). This money was suspected to be criminal proceeds, but Clarkson produced a document that claimed it was his money that he had lent to Hobbs, and it was handed over to him. Hobbs was convicted and sentenced to two years in prison for attempting to blackmail Hari Singh for £150,000 (equivalent to £10,810,000 in 2023).[16]

On 5 September 1931, a fire broke out in the basement of Clarkson's Wardour Street shop but was quickly extinguished by seven fire engines.[17] Clarkson received £26,000 from his insurers (equivalent to £2,230,000 in 2023)[18][5] In September 1933, there was a fire at another of Clarkson's properties, a warehouse in Ramillies Place, Soho.[19] Clarkson made an insurance claim of £36,748[18] but his insurers refused to make a payment.[20] Sir William Crocker, a solicitor acting for the insurance companies, began an investigation and gathered enough evidence to prosecute Clarkson for making fraudulent claims, but Clarkson died in 1934, before the prosecution could take place.[21][22][Note 2]

In March 1937, a consortium of insurance companies and Lloyds underwriters filed two suits against Clarkson's estate. Their purpose was to recover money paid to Clarkson when he was alive for fire insurance claims. One of those giving evidence was a man called Leopald Harris. In 1933 Harris had received a 14-year prison sentence as the ringleader of a large gang of arsonists, who set fires for the purpose of insurance fraud.[5] He testified that he had been paid £775 (equivalent to £70,000 in 2023) to organise the setting of the 1931 fire in Clarkson's shop,[11][5] and that one of the men involved subsequently started the 1933 warehouse fire.[5] Harris also bribed the attending member of the London Salvage Corps to ignore evidence that valuable goods supposedly destroyed had been removed before the fire started.[5]

The plaintiffs won their case and were awarded £26,174.[5] During the trial, it emerged that six other fires and one gas explosion had been reported by Clarkson at his premises in 1895, 1898, 1901, 1910, 1915, 1918 and 1924[24][5]

Death

[edit]
Grave of William Berry Clarkson in Brookwood Cemetery, 2016

On the night of 13 October 1934, Clarkson was found unconscious on his bedroom floor with a gash on his forehead. He was attended by Bertrand Dawson, the Royal Family's physician, but never regained consciousness.[5] The circumstances of his death were considered sufficiently suspicions that an autopsy on his body was performed by the prominent pathologist, Sir Bernard Spilsbury, although he found no conclusive evidence of foul play.[11] Clarkson's funeral was at St Paul's, Covent Garden[Note 3][25][5] and he was buried in a modest grave in the Actors' Acre in Brookwood Cemetery in Surrey, England.

Clarkson's will, dated 1929, left the bulk of his estate to his long-standing associate William Cooper Hobbs. However, the will was contested by Max Brezinski[Note 4] and his daughter who possessed a 1931 will in which Clarkson left his estate to them.[26] The Probate court decided in their favour in July 1935.[11][26] The matter was investigated by the police detective Leonard Burt[27] and in March 1938, Hobbs and a former solicitor, Edmond O'Connor[Note 5] went on trial, accused of together forging the earlier will. Both were convicted; Hobbs was sentenced to five years in prison and O'Connor to seven.[31][32]

Neither party in the will dispute ultimately profited as Clarkson's estate was made insolvent by the successful claim against it by the fire insurers in 1937.[5] However, his shop in Wardour street continued to trade until it closed in 1940.[33]

Legacy

[edit]
The blue plaque commemorating Clarkson, and the original Costumer and Perruquier advertising clock, 2016

A London County Council blue plaque unveiled in 1966 commemorates Clarkson at his former shop in Wardour street.[34][35] The building retains a clock above the entrance, advertising it as the business premises of a Costumer and Perruquier.[Note 6] In 1974, the building was Grade II Listed.[36] Since the 1980s,[37] it has been occupied by the well-known Wong Kei Chinese restaurant.

Clarkson's ability at creating disguises is referenced in a number of novels. These include Sax Rohmer's The Golden Scorpion (1919);[38] The Clockwork Man by Edwin Vincent Odle (1923) – an early science-fiction novel featuring a time-travelling cyborg;[39] Graham Seton Hutchison's Colonel Grant's To-morrow (1931);[40] Black August (1934) by Dennis Wheatley;[41] and Spy (1935) by Bernard Newman.[42]

Examples of Clarkson's wigs are in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum,[43][44] including one possibly worn by the dancer Adeline Genée.[45] The museum also has a complete Harlequin costume supplied by his company, that was worn on stage by Harold Chapin.[46][47] The Museum of London has a Clarkson horsehair wig that was made specially for the famous clown, Whimsical Walker[Note 7][49] and another that is claimed to have been worn on-stage by Sir Henry Irving.[50]

Jack the Ripper suspect

[edit]

Clarkson has been named as a potential suspect in the 1888 Whitechapel murders attributed to "Jack the Ripper".[51] This theory was first introduced and explored in the 2019 short film "The Wigmaker of Wellington Street".[52]

[edit]

Notes

[edit]

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
Willy Clarkson (31 March 1861 – 13 October 1934) was a British theatrical wigmaker and costumier known for his dominant influence on London's theater and entertainment industries during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Born William Berry Clarkson into a Jewish family in London as the son of a wigmaker, he inherited the family business in 1878 at age 17 following his father's death and transformed it into a leading supplier of wigs, costumes, and disguises for actors, royalty, and notable public events. He received a royal warrant from Queen Victoria in 1888, enabling him to supply wigs and costumes for performances at Osborne House and Balmoral Castle, and his work appeared on theater programmes as "Wigs by Clarkson" for more than 50 years. His business expanded significantly after relocating in 1905 to purpose-built premises at 41–43 Wardour Street in Soho, where the foundation stone was laid by Sarah Bernhardt in 1904 and a coping stone was placed in 1905 (though doubt has been cast on whether Sir Henry Irving actually laid it); at its height, the firm hired out up to 10,000 wigs each Christmas season. Clarkson also provided disguises for the celebrated 1910 Dreadnought hoax, in which Virginia Woolf and other participants posed as foreign dignitaries to expose security flaws aboard a Royal Navy warship. He lived on the top floor of his Wardour Street building until his death on 13 October 1934 under circumstances considered suspicious (leading to an autopsy with no foul play found), after which a blue plaque was erected there in 1966 by the London County Council to commemorate his contributions to British theater.

Early life

Birth and family background

William Berry Clarkson, professionally known as Willy Clarkson, was born on 31 March 1861 in St Paul, Covent Garden, London, England. He was the son of William Clarkson, a wig maker who operated the family business, and came from a Jewish family background. The 1861 census recorded the infant Clarkson residing at 45 Wellington Street, London, with his father and aunt Maria Berry.

Entry into the business

The family firm, specializing in wig-making and theatrical costuming, operated from premises on Wellington Street off the Strand, which Clarkson would inherit. His father died in 1878, at which point Clarkson, then 17 years old, took full control of the business. This marked his complete assumption of the enterprise that had been founded by his father in 1833. Under his early leadership, the business remained at its original Wellington Street location as he began to build upon its foundation.

Theatrical career

Expansion and royal appointments

Following his inheritance of the Wellington Street premises in 1873, Willy Clarkson expanded the family wig-making business by diversifying into theatrical costumes and make-up products to meet growing demand from the London stage. This growth transformed the firm into a comprehensive supplier for theatrical productions. In 1888, Queen Victoria granted Clarkson a royal warrant as Royal Perruquier and Costumier, recognizing his expertise and enabling his firm to supply wigs and costumes for royal amateur performances at Osborne House and Balmoral Castle. From 1889 onward, the business supplied costumes and wigs for amateur dramatics organized by Queen Victoria's family and circle, further solidifying its royal connections. Clarkson later received appointment as Royal Perruquier and Costumier from King Edward VII, extending the firm's prestigious royal patronage into the twentieth century. At its peak, the expanded enterprise employed over 100 people, maintained an inventory of 50,000 costumes, and hired out as many as 10,000 wigs during the busy Christmas season.

Wardour Street premises and peak operations

In 1905, Willy Clarkson relocated his thriving theatrical wigmaking and costumier business to newly constructed premises at 41–43 Wardour Street in Soho, where he lived and operated until his death. The building was designed by architect H. M. Wakley specifically for Clarkson's expanding enterprise and was erected between 1904 and 1905. Plaques on the structure record that the foundation stone was laid by French actress Sarah Bernhardt in 1904, while the coping stone was laid by actor Sir Henry Irving in 1905, though Irving's involvement has been doubted given his serious illness, limited presence in London, and death in October 1905. Constructed of red brick with green stone detailing, the building features three levels of wide windows that illuminate the interior workspaces. A prominent clock on the facade bears the inscription "Costumier and Perruquier," reflecting the dual focus of the business and surviving as a visible remnant of its original purpose. These opulent new premises, opened in 1905, marked the height of Clarkson's operations in the early twentieth century, enabling his firm to function as a leading supplier of theatrical wigs, costumes, and related services to West End theatres and performers during a period of significant growth and prestige.

Notable clients and contributions

Willy Clarkson established himself as London's preeminent theatrical wigmaker and costumier, supplying wigs, costumes, and stage makeup to the majority of West End productions for over half a century. A 1900 article in The Era declared that scarcely any major London production proceeded without his involvement, underscoring his essential role in the capital's theatre scene. For more than 50 years, the credit "Wigs by Clarkson" appeared on theatre programmes across Britain, becoming a hallmark of quality in theatrical presentation. His clientele included many of the era's most celebrated performers, such as Sarah Bernhardt, who laid the foundation stone of his Wardour Street premises in 1904; Sir Henry Irving; Lillie Langtry; Herbert Beerbohm Tree; Dame Nellie Melba; and Marie Lloyd. These luminaries relied on Clarkson for bespoke wigs and costumes tailored to their roles, reflecting his mastery in creating convincing character transformations for the stage. Clarkson contributed significantly to theatrical practices by promoting the use of greasepaint as a standard stage makeup in England, supplying it alongside his wigs and costumes to meet the demands of dramatic lighting and character portrayal. He excelled in crafting custom character wigs, often in horsehair or other specialized materials, and provided complete wardrobes for productions. Examples of his work survive in the Victoria and Albert Museum, including several period wigs dating from the late 19th to early 20th century and a skull cap from a Harlequin costume hired for a 1911 production of J.M. Barrie's Pantaloon. These artifacts attest to the durability and craftsmanship that defined his contributions to the theatre.

Disguises and extra-theatrical services

Work for Scotland Yard and criminal investigations

Clarkson's expertise in theatrical disguises extended to occasional collaborations with law enforcement. He supplied disguises and make-up to detectives from Scotland Yard, enabling them to undertake covert operations effectively. In a 1900 interview published in The ERA, Clarkson described how Scotland Yard called upon his services at times, with detectives made up so marvellously that the paint was impossible to detect even after an hour in their company, exemplifying the art that conceals art. His skills indirectly assisted police in at least one notable criminal case. Clarkson helped authorities apprehend Herbert John Bennett, who was later convicted of murder, after Bennett ordered wigs from him; this transaction provided a key lead for investigators tracking the suspect.

The Dreadnought hoax and other notable disguises

Willy Clarkson's expertise in creating realistic disguises extended beyond the theater to notable public pranks and wartime innovations. In 1910, he supplied costumes and assisted with make-up for the participants in the Dreadnought hoax, a celebrated practical joke organized by Horace de Vere Cole. The pranksters, including Adrian Stephen and his sister Virginia Woolf, posed as a delegation of Abyssinian royals to secure an official tour of HMS Dreadnought, the Royal Navy's premier battleship, successfully duping naval authorities and exposing vulnerabilities in security protocols. Adrian Stephen later recalled Clarkson's role in creating the costumes for the fake delegation, which involved eastern robes, turbans, and skin-darkening effects to convincingly portray the foreign dignitaries. During World War I, Clarkson provided realistic papier-mâché heads to Major Hesketh Hesketh-Prichard, a key figure in developing British Army sniping techniques. These dummy heads served as observation tools in the trenches, raised above the parapet on a stick to draw German sniper fire and thereby reveal enemy positions. To enhance authenticity, a lit cigarette could be placed in the dummy's mouth, with a soldier smoking it via a rubber tube from safety below; once shot, the head was released to simulate a fallen casualty, allowing observers to sight through the bullet holes for precise triangulation of the sniper's location. This method represented an early innovation in sniper countermeasures on the Western Front.

Controversies

Suspicious fires and insurance disputes

Clarkson has been accused of fraud over fire insurance claims. Two companies successfully sued his estate for the return of money paid out for claims. Insurance companies investigated suspicions of fraud and gathered evidence, but no criminal prosecution proceeded due to Clarkson's death in 1934. The matter was resolved through a civil suit against his estate.

Associations with criminals and blackmailers

Recent histories have suggested that Clarkson could have been a victim of blackmail, as well as possibly a perpetrator. It has been alleged that he supplied disguises to criminals, including an unverified claim that Dr. Hawley Harvey Crippen and his mistress wore wigs from Clarkson's shop during their attempted flight following the 1910 murder of Crippen's wife. Similar assertions have linked Clarkson to other criminal figures via his expertise in disguises, which he also provided to Scotland Yard for investigative purposes. These associations highlight the dual nature of Clarkson's work in serving both legitimate theatrical clients and those on the margins of society.

Death and estate

Circumstances of death

Clarkson was found unconscious on the floor of his bedroom at his Wardour Street premises on the night of 12–13 October 1934, having suffered a gash to his forehead. Lord Dawson of Penn, the king's personal physician, attended him but was unable to revive him, and Clarkson died in the early hours of 13 October, aged 73. The circumstances of his death were deemed sufficiently suspicious to warrant an autopsy by the renowned pathologist Sir Bernard Spilsbury, though no evidence of foul play was established. Reports varied on the cause, with some contemporary accounts citing a stroke, while the post-mortem proved inconclusive overall, fueling unsubstantiated speculation of murder. His funeral was held at St Paul's Church, Covent Garden, followed by burial in Brookwood Cemetery. Following Clarkson's death, disputes arose over competing wills governing his estate. A will dated 1929 left the majority of his property to his business manager, William Hobbs. A later will dated 1931 named other beneficiaries. The 1931 will became the subject of probate proceedings initiated by Hobbs, who alleged it was invalid. In 1935, the court upheld the 1931 will as Clarkson's valid last testament. Subsequent criminal investigations into the circumstances of the 1931 will led to forgery charges. In 1938, William Hobbs was convicted of forgery and sentenced to 5 years' imprisonment. The estate faced financial difficulties, exacerbated by prior insurance claims and investigations into possible fraud. It was ultimately declared insolvent, despite recoveries from insurance. The Wardour Street premises continued trading until 1940.

Legacy

Commemoration and surviving artifacts

The building at 41–43 Wardour Street in Soho, where Willy Clarkson resided and conducted his theatrical wigmaking and costumier business from 1905 until his death in 1934, is commemorated by a blue plaque erected in 1966 by the London County Council. The plaque bears the inscription "WILLY CLARKSON 1861-1934 THEATRICAL WIGMAKER lived and died here". The premises, purpose-built with features such as a prominent clock advertising "Costumier and Perruquier" and bronze plaques recording the laying of the foundation stone by Sarah Bernhardt in 1904 and the coping stone by Sir Henry Irving in 1905, retain original elements. The structure was designated Grade II listed on 1 February 1974, safeguarding its architectural and historical features. Examples of Clarkson's work survive in institutional collections, including wigs and components of a nineteenth-century Harlequin costume—such as a jacket, cap, breeches, belt, and mask—held by the Victoria and Albert Museum. These items, some inscribed with Clarkson's Wardour Street address, document the craftsmanship produced at his workshop.

Cultural references

Willy Clarkson's reputation as a supplier of disguises to the theater and high society has contributed to portrayals of him as an expert in transformation in popular culture.
Add your contribution
Related Hubs
User Avatar
No comments yet.