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Claremont Square
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Claremont Square is a square in the Angel (Pentonville) part of Islington, London. Its central green mound, covering a reservoir, is dotted with mature trees on all four embanked sides. It is lined on the south, east and west sides by early-19th-century houses, and on the north side, across Pentonville Road, by heavily recessed apartment/office buildings. It was developed in the 1820s by the New River Company around their then-open reservoir, the Upper Pond, which was covered over in 1856.
Key Information
History
[edit]The New River is a man-made water channel which carried drinking water for 20 mi (32 km) to London from the Chadwell and Amwell Springs near Ware in Hertfordshire. It opened in 1613 and fed reservoirs in Islington.
The New River Company, which managed the New River until 1904, owned a large estate at the top of the Islington Hill, and in 1709 constructed a forerunner to today's covered reservoir in the square, known variously as the Upper Pond,[1] High Pond,[2] or New Reservoir.[3] Water was pumped to the Upper Pond from the Round Pond at New River Head, providing a higher head of water which could be supplied to the hilltop houses of the neighbouring Pentonville and New River estates.[2] The open reservoir was initially used by anglers, but was subsequently surrounded by railings, and a privileged few were allowed to take garden walks. In 1757, following the formation of the New Road north of the reservoir (renamed Pentonville Road in 1857),[3] it was enclosed by a high brick wall.[1][3]
During the period after the Napoleonic Wars, a rapid rise in population put a premium on building land contiguous to London. The area north of the New Road was fully developed as the suburb of Pentonville, and ground by the reservoir was the obvious place for the New River Company to begin development. The square (briefly known as River Square) was named after either an independent chapel opened in the New Road in 1819[1] or the adjacent terrace,[3] which took its then-fashionable name Claremont from the country mansion where, in 1816, Princess Charlotte of Wales and Prince Leopold went to live after their marriage, and where the Princess died in childbirth in 1817.[3]
Construction of the west side of the square commenced in 1821 and was initially called Myddelton Terrace (named after Sir Hugh Myddelton, the designer and constructor of the New River), leading into the later Amwell Street. The west and south sides were completed by 1828.[4] When it was largely complete in 1827, it was described as "the greatest improvement the parish has received for many years",[5] and occupancy began with the respectable middle-classes, such as merchants and clergymen.[1] However, the houses were constructed by a myriad of speculators and builders, to varying standards of quality.[1] It was while living in the square that the caricaturist George Cruikshank created his famous print London going out of Town – or –– the March of Bricks & Mortar!, showing the construction of jerry-built suburbs on the open fields, seen from his window.[3] After Thomas Carlyle had visited his friend Edward Irving who lived in the east terrace in 1824, he wrote in his Reminiscences that "it was a new place, houses bright and smart, but inwardly bad as usual".[6]
The brick wall surrounding the open reservoir was replaced in 1826 by cast iron railings, charged to the lessees of the houses.[1] However, "the residents of the north side not contributing their quota to the expense, a brick wall was rebuilt opposite to their houses",[7] which still stands today on the Pentonville Road side.
Well off the south-east corner of the square lay stabling and homes for stablemen's families in Claremont Mews.[1]
The Metropolis Water Act of 1852 provided that all London reservoirs should be "roofed in or covered over" within five years,[2] and so in 1856 the Upper Pond was drained, deepened, and lined with tall walls. The new brick-lined reservoir was enclosed by massive walls up to eight feet thick, built within the sides of the old pond to allow a 21 ft (6.4 m) depth of water over an area about 180 ft (55 m) square, holding about 3.5 million gallons (16 million litres).[1] It was then covered and buffered by tree-lined and turfed embankments[8] at a cost of £21,000.[4] "A few melancholy sheep" were grazed there, before going to the slaughterhouse.[3]
In the 1890s the square was "a noted residence of medical students".[1] Charles Booth’s poverty map of c. 1890 shows most Claremont Square households as "Middle class. Well-to-do."[9]
Claremont Square in the 20th and 21st centuries
[edit]
In the first half of the 20th century the square, as with much of Islington and its population, became impoverished. The New River Company undertook many flat-conversions, starting in 1935–1936. In the 1970s, the estate was acquired by Islington Council as part of a conservation area, and a systematic conversion and rehabilitation programme was carried out in the late 1970s and into the early 1980s, with some houses converted laterally into self-contained flats.[1] Unfortunately, during the building process many pretty features of the house were lost, such as fanlights and Gothick cupboards.[3] Following Right to Buy legislation some homes were sold, and a few divided houses have been taken back into single or double occupation.[1]
Claremont Mews was demolished to become a close, on land taken from gardens, and has been redeveloped as a green circus or garden square with 48 purpose-built flats.
The reservoir fell into disuse in the 1990s, but was brought back into service in 2003 to provide a header tank or balancing reservoir for the Thames Water Ring Main, filling at night and emptying during the day.[10] Thames Water has exclusive access and takes charge of repairs, cutting and planting, assisted by volunteer projects and residents' information. The semi-improved grassland on the top and sides of the reservoir supports a wide diversity of wild flowers and is a preserved habitat.
South of Pentonville Road, the opening between the sides of the square in total measures 2.52 acres (1.02 ha), of which 1.72 acres (0.70 ha) is the green area with its directly adjoining thin pavements.
Architecture
[edit]Mary Cosh observes:
The intrusive central mound over the former reservoir, and the cutting off of the north side by Pentonville Road's traffic artery, prevented Claremont's being a 'true' square, but its harmonious style makes it one of Islington's most elegant.[3]
The houses have square-headed first floor windows in a sunken semi-circular brick surround. Many have ironwork balconies or window-guards, some have stuccoed ground floors simulating rustication, with the front usually framed by pilasters and crowned with fanlights.[2] The original street-side railings have a mixed set of pointed finials. Most of the houses are listed buildings.
Notable residents
[edit]- Edward Irving, preacher, lived at 4 Claremont Square for a few years from 1824. A blue plaque records his residency.[11] His close friend Thomas Carlyle, essayist and historian, stayed with him for a few weeks in 1824.[4][1]
- George Cruikshank, caricaturist, lived at three different addresses around the square in 1824–1849.[2][1]
- Emily Soldene, singer, actress, theatre director, was born in Claremont Square on 30 September 1838.[4]
- Agnes Nicholls, soprano, was born at 3 Claremont Square in 1876.[12]
- Walter Sickert, artist, lodged in the square in 1877–1881.[4]
- Robert Kemp Philp, Chartist and editor, died at 21 Claremont Square on 30 November 1882.[13]
- Margery Moore, musician, composer and teacher, lived at 34 Claremont Square between the 1930s and 1960s.[14][15]
- B. S. Johnson, writer, lived at 34 Claremont Square, probably in the 1960s.[16][17]
TV and film
[edit]The Harry Potter film series uses 23–29 Claremont Square as 12 Grimmauld Place.[18][19]
No. 33 is the filming location for the fictitious 35 Portland Row in the Netflix adaption of Lockwood & Co.[19]
References
[edit]- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m Temple, Philip, ed. (2008). Survey of London: Volume 47, Northern Clerkenwell and Pentonville: Amwell Street and Myddelton Square area. London County Council. ISBN 978-0300139372. Retrieved 16 September 2025.
- ^ a b c d e Cosh, Mary (2005). A History of Islington. London: Historical Publications Ltd. pp. 141, 170, 183, 193, 258. ISBN 0-948667-97-4.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i Cosh, Mary (1990). The Squares of Islington: Part I - Finsbury and Clerkenwell. London: Islington Archaeology & History Society. pp. 21–26. ISBN 0-9507532-5-4.
- ^ a b c d e Willats, Eric A. (1986). Islington: Streets with a Story. London: Islington Local History Education Trust. ISBN 0-9511871-04.
- ^ Cromwell, Thomas (1828). History and Description of the Parish of Clerkenwell.
- ^ Carlyle, Thomas (1881). Reminiscences. Vol. i. p. 212.
- ^ Pinks, William J. (1865). Wood, Edward J. (ed.). The History of Clerkenwell. p. 397.
- ^ Zwart, Pieter (1973). Islington: A History and Guide. London: Sidgwick and Jackson Limited. p. 85. ISBN 0-283-97937-2.
- ^ Booth, Charles. "Inquiry into Life and Labour in London: Maps Descriptive of London Poverty". Charles Booth's London. London School of Economics. Retrieved 19 September 2025.
- ^ Ward, Robert (2003). London's New River. Historical Publications Ltd. p. 212. ISBN 978-0948667848.
- ^ "Blue Plaques: Irving, Edward (1792-1834)". English Heritage. Retrieved 19 September 2025.
- ^ Announcement in Cheltenham Mercury Saturday 26 August 1876 'July 14, at 3 Claremont Square, Mrs A.C. Nicholls of a daughter - Agnes Helen.'
- ^ Lee, Sidney, ed. (1896). . Dictionary of National Biography. Vol. 45. London: Smith, Elder & Co.
- ^ London, England, Electoral Registers, 1832-1965. Islington, Finsbury and Shoreditch Reference: Rg 101/130c
- ^ The National Archives; Kew, London, England; 1939 Register: Rg 101/130c
- ^ "34 Claremont Square: former home of B. S. Johnson". geograph. Retrieved 16 September 2025.
- ^ Baker, P. Johnson, Bryan Stanley William (1933–1973), writer. Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Retrieved 19 June 2023.
- ^ "Claremont Square: Harry Potter caught outside Number 12 Grimmauld Place". Lights, Camera…Islington!. Retrieved 16 November 2021.
- ^ a b "Where was Lockwood & Co filmed? Guide to all the Filming Locations".
External links
[edit]- British Listed Buildings Entry for Claremont Square
- Historic England list of nationally protected historic buildings:
- Official list entry 1279622, Numbers 2 - 17 (consecutive) and attached railings, 2 - 17, Claremont Square
- Official list entry 1195542, Numbers 18 - 31 (consecutive) and attached railings, 18 - 31, Claremont Square
- Official list entry 1195543, Numbers 43 and 44 and attached railings, 43 and 44, Claremont Square
- Official list entry 1380626, Claremont Square Reservoir
- Official list entry 1207756, Railings around square
- All About London
- London Parks & Gardens: A Walk through Islington – Claremont Square
- Charles Booth's London website
- A London Inheritance: New River Head and London’s Water Industry
Claremont Square
View on GrokipediaLocation and layout
Geographical position
Claremont Square is situated in the Pentonville area of the London Borough of Islington, North London, within the Clerkenwell ward.[1][4] It occupies a position at coordinates 51.5313°N, 0.1104°W, with the postal code N1.[5][4] The square is bounded by Pentonville Road to the north and extends southward, enclosed on the east and west by residential terraces, while adjacent to Liverpool Road on the west and Myddelton Square via connecting streets on the east.[1] This creates a compact urban layout approximately 200 m east-west by 150 m north-south.[1][6] Claremont Square lies in close proximity to key landmarks and transport links, including Angel tube station just 250 yards away on the Northern line, facilitating easy access across London.[4] Upper Street, a vibrant commercial thoroughfare, is a short walk to the east, and the New River Walk path borders the area to the southeast, integrating the square into Islington's network of green spaces and urban routes.[7] As a quiet residential enclave surrounded by these buildings, it provides a green, treed central mound amid the densely populated borough of Islington, which records approximately 15,000 residents per square kilometre (as of 2024)—one of the highest densities in the UK.[8][9]Central features
Claremont Square presents an enclosed garden layout centered on a prominent grass mound, measuring about 277 meters in length. It is surrounded by residential terraces on its south, east, and west sides, forming a three-sided enclosure, while the northern boundary opens directly onto Pentonville Road, which interrupts the traditional four-sided configuration of a classic London square.[6][10] The elevated central mound, rising roughly 4 meters above street level with steep, embanked sides, functions as a landscaped green space featuring mature trees—such as London planes and horse chestnuts—along its perimeter, interspersed with winding paths for pedestrian use. This area serves as a private communal garden exclusively for the square's residents, providing a serene oasis amid urban surroundings. The mound conceals an underlying reservoir structure.[2][6] Access to the garden is restricted through gated entrances along the railings, with no public right of way permitted, ensuring privacy for key-holding residents. Amenities within include wooden benches for seating and designated zones for seasonal flower plantings, enhancing the space's appeal as a shared retreat.[6][11] Unlike formal Georgian squares such as the nearby Myddelton Square, which feature level communal lawns, Claremont Square's design is distinguished by its irregular, mound-dominated form and the bisecting road, creating a more asymmetrical and utilitarian aesthetic rooted in its infrastructural origins.[6]History
Early development
Claremont Square originated as a residential development initiated by the New River Company, which constructed housing around its existing Upper Pond reservoir between 1818 and 1825. The Upper Pond, established in 1709 as part of the company's water infrastructure to supply London from Hertfordshire springs via the New River channel completed in 1613, occupied the center of the site and influenced the square's layout.[12][1] The New River Company, facing competition from rival water providers in the early 19th century, turned to property development for additional revenue, acquiring and developing land south of Pentonville Road east of Penton Street as part of its estate. This area, previously part of the Angel inn lands divided among claimants in 1817, was laid out for upscale terraced housing to attract middle-class professionals and company affiliates. Plans called for approximately 48 stucco-fronted houses forming three sides of the square, with construction overseen by William Chadwell Mylne, the company's surveyor.[1][13][10] The square's name derives from Claremont House, the Surrey residence of Princess Charlotte Augusta, reflecting the era's fashionable associations; nearby Claremont Chapel, opened in 1819 and also named for the house, further linked the nomenclature. Leaseholds for the properties began selling around 1824, positioning the development as a desirable residential enclave integrated with the vital water supply network.[1][10]19th to 21st centuries
In the mid-19th century, the Metropolis Water Act of 1852 prompted significant improvements to London's water supply infrastructure, including the reconstruction of the reservoir at Claremont Square.[2] Designed by engineer John Murray, the covered reservoir was completed in 1855–1856 as an underground tank with a capacity of approximately 3.5 million gallons (16 million litres), facilitating a shift from local pumping to a more reliable mains water distribution network integrated with the New River system.[2][14] This development addressed public health concerns arising from cholera outbreaks and ensured elevated storage above the Thames, supporting broader urban water needs.[15] By the late 19th century, Claremont Square experienced a decline from its initial middle-class residential character, with surrounding areas seeing increased commercial and industrial uses that eroded the elegance of the terraces.[1] This trend accelerated in the early 20th century, as parts of the square deteriorated into lodging houses and dilapidated properties amid Islington's broader economic challenges.[1] World War II exacerbated the impoverishment, with bomb damage affecting nearby structures like Claremont Close and contributing to multi-occupation of homes by mid-century, as families subdivided larger houses amid post-war housing shortages.[16] Revitalization efforts began in the 1970s when Islington Council acquired properties in the square as part of the New River Conservation Area, launching a comprehensive rehabilitation program that restored the terraces and converted many into single-family homes.[17] This initiative, spanning the 1970s and 1980s, addressed decay while preserving the historic fabric. In 2003, the reservoir was reactivated as a balancing tank for the Thames Water Ring Main, filling at night and supplying during peak demand to modernize the site's utility role.[12] Today, Claremont Square stands as a gentrified residential enclave within the protected New River Conservation Area, where the Grade II-listed reservoir and surrounding terraces maintain their historical integrity.[2][17] Property values reflect this upscale transformation, with average sales reaching around £1 million as of 2024, underscoring the area's appeal in contemporary Islington.[18]Architecture
Residential terraces
The residential terraces surrounding Claremont Square were constructed between 1821 and 1828 under the direction of William Chadwell Mylne, surveyor to the New River Company, as part of a speculative development initiative by the water utility to capitalize on its land holdings in Pentonville.[13][19] These Georgian-style houses feature uniform stuccoed facades on the ground floors, laid in Flemish bond with beige or gold stock bricks above, elliptical-arched entrances with Doric or fluted column jambs, and six-over-six-pane sash windows framed by gauged brick arches and stucco sill bands.[13][20] Many include iron-bracketed balconies on the first floor with decorative Gothic or anthemion-patterned railings, complemented by attached area railings with urn or disc finials, contributing to the terraces' cohesive early-nineteenth-century aesthetic.[21] Variations in design occur across the square's sides: the eastern terrace (nos. 33–42) and northern terrace (nos. 2–17) consist of three-storey houses over basements with attic dormers under mansard roofs, while the southern terrace (nos. 18–31) rises to four storeys over basements, featuring a projecting central block for added emphasis.[13][20][21] All terraces follow a side-hall entrance plan with internal staircases, plain parapets, and brick string courses, though some elements like fanlights and panelled doors have been replaced or restored over time.[20] The houses were designated Grade II listed in 1972 (amended 1994) for their special architectural and historic interest, recognizing their contribution to Islington's planned urban squares and their intact Regency detailing.[13][20][21] Internally, the original layouts preserved through 1970s restorations by architects Andrews Sherlock and Associates included principal drawing rooms on the first floor, service areas such as kitchens in the basements, and rear gardens accessed via the side-hall plans; these efforts reversed post-war subdivisions to reinstate the houses' single-family configurations.[13][20] This development exemplifies early-nineteenth-century speculative building by water companies like the New River Company, which prioritized utilitarian land use around infrastructure while achieving an elegant residential form comparable to nearby squares such as Myddelton Square, though distinguished by its origins tied to water supply engineering.[19]Landscaping and infrastructure
The central mound of Claremont Square is a prominent grass-covered earth embankment rising approximately 4 meters above the surrounding streets, forming a dome-like structure that conceals the underlying reservoir and serves as the square's primary landscaped feature.[2] Planted with mature trees and shrubs since its completion in 1856, the mound provides a recreational green space for residents, enhancing the Regency-era aesthetic while supporting local biodiversity as a designated Site of Importance for Nature Conservation (SINC 14).[19][2] Beneath the mound lies the underground reservoir, a Victorian-era stock brick structure measuring approximately 80 meters square and 8 meters deep internally, divided into multiple bays with a barrel-vaulted roof and Yorkstone flooring.[2] Constructed in 1855–1856 by the New River Company to comply with the Metropolis Water Act of 1852, it features intricate brickwork, iron ventilation pipes, gate valves, and drainage channels, functioning historically as a gravity-fed service reservoir connected to London's water distribution network.[2][19] The reservoir's covering, integrated into the mound, was designed to blend infrastructure with the urban landscape, a feature originally developed in the early 19th century as part of the square's layout. Surrounding the mound are Grade II listed perimeter railings dating to the mid-19th century, featuring a bracketed cast-iron design with tasselled spear-head standards and providing secure, resident-only access via gated entrances.[22][19] Maintenance of the landscaping and infrastructure is overseen by Thames Water, with the entire site preserved within the New River Conservation Area to restrict alterations and maintain its historical and visual integrity.[19][17] The reservoir itself received Grade II listing in 2000, underscoring its significance as a rare example of concealed Victorian water infrastructure in a residential setting.[2]Notable residents
19th-century figures
Edward Irving (1792–1834), a Scottish preacher and theologian, resided at 4 Claremont Square from approximately 1824 to 1827.[23][24] During this period, Irving served as minister at the Caledonian Chapel in nearby Cross Street, Hatton Garden, where his charismatic sermons on premillennialism and the imminent Second Coming of Christ drew large congregations and influenced the local religious landscape.[25] His teachings, which emphasized spiritual gifts and apostolic restoration, laid the groundwork for the Catholic Apostolic Church, founded by his followers in the early 1830s; the movement's early assemblies and prophetic activities were centered in London's Islington area, fostering a distinct religious community among residents.[26] George Cruikshank (1792–1878), the renowned illustrator and caricaturist, lived at several addresses in and around Claremont Square during the first half of the 19th century, including No. 28 in the 1820s and until around 1849.[27][28] In his later years there, Cruikshank focused on social reform, particularly his fervent temperance advocacy; his 1847 series The Bottle, a sequence of eight etchings depicting the progressive ruin of a family through alcoholism, became a seminal work in the movement, widely disseminated and credited with influencing public opinion and policy against alcohol consumption.[29] Earlier in his career, while residing in the vicinity from the 1820s, he collaborated closely with Charles Dickens, providing illustrations for Sketches by Boz (1836) and Oliver Twist (1838), which highlighted urban poverty and social ills, enhancing his reputation as a satirical artist attuned to Victorian society's challenges.[27] Beyond these prominent figures, Claremont Square in the 19th century attracted a range of middle-class professionals, such as clerks, merchants, and tradesmen, reflecting its development as a respectable residential area for London's emerging bourgeoisie in the early decades of the century.[30]20th-century figures
During the mid-20th century, Claremont Square, like much of Islington, transitioned from affluent Victorian origins to a period of decline characterized by working-class occupancy and physical deterioration, before experiencing early waves of gentrification in the 1960s and 1970s that attracted bohemian artists, writers, and professionals seeking affordable housing in rundown Georgian and Victorian properties.[30] This shift reflected broader post-war cultural revival in north London, where creative figures contributed to the area's literary and artistic scene amid socioeconomic changes.[31] One prominent 20th-century resident exemplifying this bohemian influx was the experimental novelist and poet B. S. Johnson (1933–1973), who lived at 34 Claremont Square during the 1960s and early 1970s.[32] Writer Len Deighton (1929–) also resided at 34 Claremont Square from the 1930s to the 1960s. Johnson, a key figure in Britain's avant-garde literary movement, rejected conventional narrative fiction in favor of innovative forms, as seen in his 1969 novel The Unfortunates, a boxed set of unbound chapters allowing readers to arrange the sequence themselves. His work tied into Islington's emerging countercultural milieu, where he engaged with local literary circles while grappling with personal and professional struggles; tragically, Johnson died by suicide at his Claremont Square home on 13 March 1973.[33] While documentation of other notable 20th-century residents remains limited, the square's evolving demographic during this era—marked by a mix of longstanding working-class families and incoming creatives—underscored its role in Islington's gradual gentrification, setting the stage for further revitalization.[34]In popular culture
Film appearances
Claremont Square's most prominent film appearance is as the exterior location for 12 Grimmauld Place, the ancestral home of the Black family, in Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix (2007). Filming took place in 2005, with the terrace of houses numbered 23 to 29 serving as the backdrop for the Order of the Phoenix headquarters, where Harry Potter and his allies convene amid threats from Lord Voldemort.[35] The square also featured in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows – Part 1 (2010), reusing the location for brief exterior shots of the magically concealed wizarding residence.[36] In these scenes, the square's Regency-era terrace facades and iron-gated communal garden were digitally altered to insert the fictional No. 12 between Nos. 11 and 13, emphasizing the theme of hidden wizarding secrecy through visual effects that make the house materialize and vanish. The gated entrance, in particular, was used to depict characters emerging from the private square, enhancing the portrayal of an unassuming yet protected magical enclave.[37] These architectural elements, with their uniform stucco fronts and enclosed greenery, provided an authentic London backdrop that contrasted the mundane Muggle world with the hidden supernatural one.[38] The Harry Potter films' use of Claremont Square has significantly boosted its profile, drawing global fan tourism despite the site's status as private residential property. Visitors often seek photos of the terrace, but residents have posted signs requesting no photography or trespassing to maintain privacy, reflecting the tension between cinematic fame and everyday life. This recognition has made the square a key stop on Harry Potter-themed tours, underscoring its enduring cultural impact.[36]Television appearances
Claremont Square served as a key filming location for the 2023 Netflix series Lockwood & Co., with No. 33 and the surrounding terraces standing in for 35 Portland Row, the exterior of the titular psychic detective agency's headquarters.[39] The production captured the square's elegant Georgian architecture to enhance the supernatural atmosphere, drawing on its historic layout for establishing shots that grounded the story in a moody, alternate London.[40] Principal photography for these scenes occurred in 2022 over multiple visits to the site, where crews employed large camera cranes and green screen elements to integrate digital effects, amplifying the period-like feel amid the series' ghostly themes.[41] This utilization highlighted the square's versatility for period and fantasy productions, with the terraces providing a cohesive, enclosed visual frame for character arrivals and departures.[42] The series' exposure of Claremont Square has spurred greater interest in UK television filming sites, fostering visits from fans and contributing to London's screen tourism economy, even as Lockwood & Co. was canceled after its single season in May 2023—yet the location's cinematic allure endures.[43][44]References
- https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Dictionary_of_National_Biography%2C_1885-1900/Irving%2C_Edward
- https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Dictionary_of_National_Biography%2C_1885-1900/Cruikshank%2C_George