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Figure-eight loop
Figure-eight loop
Figure-eight loop
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Figure-eight loop
NamesFigure-eight loop, Flemish loop
CategoryLoop
Relatedfigure-eight knot, flemish bend, Figure-of-nine loop, spider hitch
ReleasingJamming
Typical useclimbing, caving
Caveatjams
ABoK#1047, #531
Instructions[1]

Figure-eight loop (also figure-eight on a bight, figure-eight follow-through, figure-eight retrace, Flemish loop, or Flemish eight) is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.

The Flemish loop or figure-eight loop is perhaps stronger than the loop knot. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie. In hooking a tackle to any of the loops, if the loop is long enough it is better to arrange the rope as a cat's paw.

— The Ashley Book of Knots[1]

The double figure eight is used to put a loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type.

Tying methods

[edit]

On a bight

[edit]
A figure-of-eight loop tied using the follow-through method.

A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard figure-eight knot.

In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking carabiners, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.[2]

Follow-through

[edit]
A well-dressed figure-eight follow-through after tightening

Alternatively, to tie the knot directly around an object, the follow-through method must be used.

  • Tie a regular figure eight knot with a significant amount of extra tail.
  • Loop the tail around the object.
  • Thread the tail back through the figure eight to create a normal looking figure eight on a bight.

Climbing

[edit]

This is the standard method for attaching a rope to a climbing harness.[3][4]

Often an additional strangle knot (which is half of a double fisherman's knot) "backup knot" is tied in the tail of the figure 8.[5][6][7][8] This is not required for the knot's integrity during climbing,[3][2][9][10][11][12] but could prevent ring-loading failure if belaying from the rope loop (instead of a dedicated belay loop).[13][14] It also ensures that adequate tail length has been included, and gets excess tail out of the way.[15] If the finish knot is not included, the tail should be 4 to 8 inches long.[3][16][17][18][10] The tail can also be tucked back into the knot, called a "Yosemite finish" or "Yosemite tuck".[19] This holds the bottom loop open, making the knot easier to untie after falling, but also making it weaker in a ring-loading configuration.[20][21]

The diameter of the loop should be kept small to avoid being caught on protrusions while falling, or clipped into accidentally while lead climbing.[3] A well-dressed knot has a symmetrical appearance, with the strands parallel through each curve.[3][22]

See also

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References

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[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Figure-eight loop

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
The figure-eight loop, also known as the figure 8 on a bight or Flemish loop, is a secure loop knot formed by doubling a into a bight and tying it into the shape of the numeral 8, creating a fixed, non-slipping loop that can be attached to a , harness, or other object. This knot is widely used in and to tie into a harness or systems, where it provides reliable strength under moderate to heavy loads, with ratings typically ranging from 65% to 86% of the rope's breaking strength based on extensive testing. In operations and , it serves as a versatile attachment point for lifelines or equipment hoisting, such as chainsaws, due to its ease of tying mid-rope and resistance to jamming under strain. Its advantages include simplicity, inspectability, and tolerance for tying errors compared to alternatives like the , though it may require more effort to untie after heavy loading. Variations such as the figure-eight follow-through (for end-of- attachments) and directional figure-eight (for inline loading) extend its applications, making it a foundational in outdoor and professional work.

Description and Properties

Structure and Formation

The figure-eight loop, also known as the Flemish loop or figure 8 on a bight, derives its name from the distinctive figure-eight shape it assumes when laid flat. This loop knot is fundamentally composed of a figure-eight knot tied using a bight of the , where the bight is passed around the standing part and through the initial loop to create a secure, fixed loop without requiring access to either rope end. The resulting structure integrates the loop seamlessly into the rope, providing a reliable attachment point. Visually, the tightened figure-eight loop features two parallel strands that trace a symmetrical "8" , with the fixed loop protruding from the upper and the tail secured adjacent to the standing part along the lower . This configuration distributes load across multiple crossings, enhancing stability. The is commonly tied in versatile rope materials such as , kernmantle (prevalent in applications), or laid ropes, adhering to standard knotting guidelines without unique diameter limitations.

Strength and Security Characteristics

The figure-eight loop knot typically retains approximately 75-80% of the rope's tensile strength under standard loading conditions, as demonstrated in tests on and ropes used in and applications. This efficiency is derived from standardized tensile tests aligning with protocols from organizations like the Cordage Institute, where the knot's breaking point occurs at the entry or exit points rather than through slippage. The knot's security stems from its self-locking mechanism and inherent resistance to jamming under dynamic loads, making it highly reliable in high-risk scenarios compared to simpler loops. When properly dressed—with strands aligned neatly and without crossovers—the figure-eight loop minimizes stress concentrations, but poorly tied versions can result in approximately 10% additional strength loss due to uneven loading and potential slippage. In cross-loading tests, efficiency drops to approximately 44% depending on type and test conditions, yet the knot maintains stability without . Relative to the bowline, the figure-eight loop exhibits superior loop stability and security, with strength retention ranging from 64.8% to 86.3% across 288 tests, versus 41.8% to 70.7% for the in 106 tests; however, it is bulkier, which can affect handling in tight spaces. These characteristics are validated through UIAA-aligned protocols emphasizing minimum static strength of 8 kN for certified ropes with the knot tied.

Historical and Practical Uses

In Climbing and Mountaineering

The figure-eight loop is the standard end-loop tie-in knot for securing a to a harness in and , forming a secure attachment point that withstands dynamic loads during falls. It is also employed to create personal anchor systems (PAS), where a figure-eight on a bight provides a fixed loop for clipping into anchors or , enhancing in multi-pitch and big-wall scenarios. This knot's adoption as the primary tie-in method aligns with guidelines from the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) and the American Alpine Club (AAC), which emphasize its reliability for harness connections in both recreational and competitive . The figure-eight loop gained prominence in the late alongside the widespread use of synthetic kernmantle ropes, which offered greater elasticity and strength compared to earlier natural-fiber ropes, allowing for safer leader falls and necessitating more robust knots. Prior to this, knots like the bowline-on-a-bight were common but proved less secure under the higher loads and repeated stressing of ropes in big-wall . By the 1970s, as climbing techniques evolved with these materials, the figure-eight loop replaced such alternatives in standard practice, becoming the preferred choice for its ability to maintain integrity in vertical, load-bearing applications. Key advantages include its visual inspectability, where the distinct "8" shape allows quick verification of correct tying, reducing the risk of errors compared to the , which can appear similar when mis-tied. This makes it particularly suitable for , who face a higher error rate with the bowline under stress or fatigue, as the figure-eight's structure is more forgiving of minor mistakes while providing superior security and stability (retaining 64.8%-86.3% of strength). The follow-through technique is commonly used for harness tie-ins to ensure precise tracing. Safety protocols mandate tying a , such as a double overhand, on the tail end to prevent slippage, with the tail length typically at least 4 inches (10 cm) for redundancy. This backup is especially critical in setups, where the knot anchors the belayer, and in rappelling, where it secures the rope to the harness or points, ensuring the system remains stable under sustained loads. The UIAA and AAC recommend buddy checks to confirm knot integrity before any ascent.

In Sailing and Other Applications

In , the figure-eight loop is used as a reliable or for general secure attachments, providing stability in wet conditions. Its structure allows for easy inspection and resists jamming after prolonged exposure to , facilitating quick release even when wet and loaded, which is essential for efficient deck operations. Beyond maritime contexts, the figure-eight loop finds application in rescue operations, such as fire services for hoisting equipment or personnel via fixed loops in lifelines, where its simplicity and security under tension are critical. In rigging, it secures carabiners or slings to harnesses during tree work, offering a strong, inspectable connection that supports heavy branch loads without slippage. For general , it forms adjustable guy lines for tents or tarps, creating stable points that endure wind and weather exposure. Documented as a versatile loop in Clifford W. Ashley's seminal work, it is praised for its balance of strength and ease of tying across utility scenarios. In these outdoor applications, the figure-eight loop benefits from compatibility with UV-resistant synthetic ropes, ensuring longevity in prolonged sun exposure without significant degradation of the knot's performance. The knot's evolution traces to 19th-century nautical traditions, where the base figure-eight form served as a stopper in , later adapted into the loop variant for broader utility; today, it is routinely tied in modern synthetic cords for harness attachments, leveraging its proven security in aerial rescue systems. Its general strength, retaining approximately 75-80% of the rope's tensile capacity, underpins these diverse roles without compromising on reliability.

Tying Methods

Forming on a Bight

The figure-eight loop formed on a bight is a method that utilizes a doubled section of rope, allowing the creation of a secure, fixed loop at any point along the rope's length without requiring access to either free end. This technique is particularly suited for situations where the rope ends are inaccessible or tied off, such as in rescue operations or when establishing mid-rope attachments. To tie the figure-eight loop on a bight, begin by doubling the rope to form a bight of sufficient to create the desired loop size. With the bight acting as the working end, form an initial loop (similar to the starting overhand configuration of a ) in the doubled standing part of the rope. Pass the bight behind the standing part and wrap it around 360 degrees, then feed the bight through the initial loop from the back side. Dress the by aligning all strands parallel and without twists, then pull firmly on the standing part and the loop to tighten and set the structure, resulting in the characteristic "8" shape. This method offers key advantages, including the ability to form an inline loop ideal for slings, mid-rope anchors, or attaching to a without manipulating the rope ends, making it highly practical for vector pulls or anchoring around objects like trees. It is quick to tie and easy to inspect for proper formation, with no tools required. The knot's security stems from its balanced loading and resistance to slippage under moderate to heavy strain. Common errors in tying include incorrect crossing of strands during the wrap or feed-through, which can result in a twisted or "false" figure-eight that appears similar but fails to distribute load evenly and may capsize under tension. Such issues often arise from half-twists in the bight or improper alignment of the loops; to correct, untie and re-pass the bight through the initial loop while ensuring all parts remain parallel. Always verify after dressing that the loops do not cross and that the is tightly set.

Follow-Through Technique

The follow-through technique for tying a involves first forming a loose in the rope approximately 24 to 36 inches from the working end, depending on the desired length. The working end is then passed around the attachment point, such as a harness loop, ring, or , before retracing the original figure-eight path in reverse to complete the loop. This method creates a secure, adjustable attachment without requiring a separate loop formation. Once threaded, the knot is dressed by aligning the strands parallel and tightened by pulling simultaneously on the standing part, working end, and both loop strands to distribute even tension. This technique is particularly adaptable for integrating with existing elements, such as girth-hitching an by passing the working end around a sling or before retracing, or incorporating a for adjustable positioning in belay setups. In , it is commonly known as the figure-eight follow-through and serves as the standard method for tying the rope directly into the harness via the tie-in loops, ensuring a reliable connection that retains 75-80% of the rope's tensile strength. The approach saves time in dynamic environments by allowing direct attachment to pre-existing points without retying the entire . Key considerations include maintaining equal tension across all strands during tightening to prevent uneven loading, which could compromise the knot's security under dynamic forces. The finished tail should measure at least 6 inches to provide a safety margin against slippage, with some guidelines recommending up to 12 inches for added security in high-load scenarios. Unlike basic figure-eight formations, this method facilitates versatile connections to fixed objects, enhancing efficiency in applications like rescue operations or multi-pitch where quick adjustments are essential.

Inline and Reversed Forms

The inline figure-eight loop, also known as the directional figure-eight loop, is a midline variation of the figure-eight loop designed to orient the loop parallel to the rope's axis, enabling secure loading in a single, straight-line direction rather than perpendicular to the standing parts. This adjustment is achieved by forming an initial overhand loop and passing a doubled bight through it in the opposite direction from the standard method, ensuring the resulting loop aligns with the pull vector. It is particularly useful in rescue and hauling scenarios, such as attaching components in a z-drag mechanical advantage system or creating handholds on a hauling line.

Comparisons to Similar Loops

The figure-eight loop is frequently compared to the , another widely used end-of-rope loop knot valued for its simplicity and historical prominence in maritime and contexts. The typically requires about 1.5 times the rope length to tie, making it less bulky than the figure-eight, which demands roughly twice the length and results in a thicker profile due to its greater and number of crossings. However, the figure-eight provides enhanced security under cyclic loading, as its structure with 20 crossings in three dimensions prevents capsizing, unlike the 's seven crossings that can allow slippage into a less stable form without backups. Post-load untying favors the , which loosens more readily than the figure-eight, often requiring tools or techniques to undo after heavy stress. In strength tests aggregating hundreds of samples, the figure-eight achieves 64.8%–86.3% , surpassing the 's 41.8%–70.7%. Compared to reinforced bowline variants like the or , the figure-eight loop is prioritized in climbing standards for its straightforward visual inspection, enabling quick partner checks essential for safety. These bowline derivatives add turns for improved security over the standard but remain lighter overall and consume less rope than the figure-eight. The , in particular, offers better jam resistance in some low-load scenarios but underperforms in preventing capsizing during dynamic falls, with experimental data indicating it retains only 10–20% less strength than the figure-eight on average. The alpine butterfly loop serves as a strong alternative for mid-rope applications, excelling in bidirectional loading and bends where equal tension on both strands is needed, but it yields to the figure-eight for terminal end-loops in high-security demands. Strength retention tests position the figure-eight at approximately 75–85% of breaking strength for end uses, compared to the alpine butterfly's 75% under similar conditions, though the butterfly's stability shines in 90-degree pulls. Selection among these loops hinges on context-specific trade-offs, with the figure-eight favored for scenarios requiring maximal security and inspectability, such as harness tie-ins under variable loads, as emphasized in foundational knot literature and contemporary analyses.

References

  1. https://www.101knots.com/figure-8-on-a-bight.html
  2. https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/2018-12/fy15_sh-27664-sh5_Lifeline_Figure_8_on_a_bight_knot_example.pdf
  3. http://www.paci.com.au/downloads_public/knots/Robert-Chisnall_Tie-in-knots_2021.pdf
  4. https://ia601901.us.archive.org/12/items/the-ashley-book-of-knots-abok-clifford-ashley/The_Ashley_Book_of_Knots-ABOK-Clifford_Ashley.pdf
  5. https://thebearessentials.com/blogs/knot-tying/figure-eight-loop
  6. https://sgtknots.com/blogs/knot-tutorials/figure-8-knot
  7. https://www.frostburg.edu/faculty/rkauffman/_files/images_swr/Ch05_Knots_v3.pdf
  8. https://verticalsection.caves.org/nh/59/Rescue%20Knot%20Efficiency%20Revisited.pdf
  9. https://ukcaving.com/board/index.php?threads/knot-dressing-does-it-make-any-difference.20521/
  10. http://przyrbwn.icm.edu.pl/APP/PDF/138/app138z3p11.pdf
  11. https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety-standards/UIAA_110_StaticRopes_v1.pdf
  12. https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safecom-answers-your-questions-figure-eight-knots/
  13. https://americanalpineclub.org/climbing-resources/climbing-education/how-to-climb/knots
  14. https://rockclimbingrealms.com/essential-climbing-knots/
  15. https://www.climbing.com/gear/cllimbing-gear-history-erickson/
  16. https://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/history-of-climbing-ropes
  17. https://blackdiamondequipment.com/blogs/stories/gear-myths-essential-climbing-knots-figure-8-vs-double-bowline
  18. https://www.climbing.com/skills/tying-in-the-bowline-vs-the-figure-8-knot/
  19. https://northeastalpinestart.com/2018/08/09/do-you-need-to-back-up-your-tie-in-knot/
  20. https://www.yachting.com/en-gb/news/9-basic-knots-to-use-at-sea
  21. https://www.boatingwithdawsons.com/blog/how-to-tie-figure-eight-cleat-hitch-knot/
  22. http://ufsw.org/pdfs/standard_rope_practices.pdf
  23. https://vtio.org.au/PDFs/Knots-for-Arboriculture.pdf
  24. https://andrewskurka.com/guyline-tension-system-backpacking-tents-tarps-hammocks/
  25. https://www.worldscientific.com/doi/pdf/10.1142/9789812796134_bmatter
  26. https://www.teamriverrunner.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Knots.pdf
  27. https://www.animatedknots.com/figure-8-follow-through-loop-knot
  28. https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/climbing-knots.html
  29. https://www.climbing.com/skills/figure-eight-follow-through-knot-climbing-tie-in/
  30. https://www.climbing.com/skills/essential-climbing-knots-complete-guide/
  31. https://www.animatedknots.com/figure-8-directional-loop-knot
  32. https://www.101knots.com/directional-figure-8.html
  33. https://knots3d.com/en/in-line-figure-eight-loop-knot
  34. https://www.saferclimbing.org/en/blog/risk-of-yosemite-bowline-knot
  35. http://www.dcrescue.com/43-knots-training-material/366-describe-the-strengths-and-limitations-of-common-rescue-knots
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