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Simone Moro
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Simone Moro
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Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967 in Bergamo) is an Italian mountaineer and alpinist who is known for making first winter ascents of four of the fourteen eight-thousanders (peaks above 8,000 metres), which were: Shishapangma in 2005,[3][4] Makalu in 2009,[5][6] Gasherbrum II in 2011,[7][8] and Nanga Parbat in 2016.[9][10] No other climber has made more first winter ascents of an eight-thousander in history. He has summited Everest four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.

Key Information

Moro is also an experienced helicopter pilot.[11] In 2013, he and two other rescue experts carried out the world's highest long-line rescue operation on a helicopter, on Lhotse, at 7800m.[12][13] On 12 November 2015 he set a new flight altitude world record in an ES 101 Raven turboshaft-powered helicopter (6705m).[14] In 2023, Simone Moro conducted a daring rescue operation on the south side of Mount Everest, flying and landing at Camp III (7,350m) to save an Indian climber. Additionally, Moro made several flights to Camp II for rescue purposes. That season saw multiple casualties and rescue missions on Everest's south side, largely due to severe weather conditions.[15][16]

Early life

[edit]

Born in Bergamo, in northern Italy, to middle-class parents, Moro grew up in the borough of Valtesse and was actively encouraged by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a cyclist and also fostered a lively and international environment around him. He started climbing on the Presolana and other massifs of the Bergamasque Alps at the age of 13. In 2003, at 35, he completed his university studies and graduated cum laude.

Climbing career

[edit]

Moro began his climbing activity on the Grigne near his home city. His father was his first mentor, and later Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi. At that time he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity he has never given up. In 1992 he participated in his first Himalayan expedition, to Mount Everest. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua in winter.[17] He made expeditions to other mountains in the 1990s, including Cerro Mirador in winter[18] and Makalu in 1993; Shishapangma and Lhotse in 1994, Kangchenjunga in 1995. In 1996 Moro climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3,341 m (10,961 ft) in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. In the same year, he climbed Shishapangma South (8,008 m [26,273 ft]) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7,100 m (23,300 ft). In 1997 he summited Lhotse. In Winter of 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna. During this attempt, his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev died in an avalanche. He tried Everest again in 1998; summited four peaks Pik Lenin (7,134 m (23,406 ft)), Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m [23,310 ft]), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7,495 m (24,590 ft), formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri (7,010 m [23,000 ft]) with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko; then summited Everest with him in 2000[19] and Marble Wall in winter 2001.

In 2002 he summited three peaks: Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu[20] and Everest;[21] summited three peaks: Broad Peak,[22] Elbrus and Kilimanjaro in 2003, summited Baruntse along a new route and tried Shishapangma and Annapurna in 2004; Batura and Batokshi peaks in 2005, Broad Peak in winter 2006 and 2007. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shishapangma, with Piotr Morawski.[3] In 2006 he completed a solo south–north traverse of Everest descending from the top in five hours.[23]

In 2008 he made (with Hervè Barmasse) the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6,950 m (22,800 ft) Karakorum). The climbing was in pure alpine style and in 43 hours.[24]

In January 2009 Moro made the first winter ascent of Makalu with Denis Urubko,[6] and in February 2011 the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II with Denis Urubko and Cory Richards.[8] In April 2013, Moro, while climbing with Ueli Steck who was preparing for a traverse next spring of Everest and Lhotse, got into an altercation with disgruntled sherpas that according to The Guardian: "... went viral and Steck, wholly blameless in the affair, became severely depressed and disheartened".[25] In February 2016, Moro completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara.[26] In February 2018, he completed the first winter ascent of Peak Pobeda, Sakha along with fellow Italian mountaineer Tamara Lunger.[27]

Rescue missions

[edit]

In May 2001 he tried to traverse Everest–Lhotse: during an attempt on the wall of Lhotse at 8000 metres he abandoned the climb to search, rescue, and save English alpinist Tom Moores.[28] Moro was a recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO,[29] the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi[30] and the David A. Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club.[31] Tom Moores recalls his meeting with Moro this way:

On the way down we met Simone who had unfortunately failed to get to the summit because of the energy he had used rescuing me. I felt and still feel very guilty, but Simone who is a very humble man shrugged his shoulders and said, "It is no problem. In the future, I can still climb and you can still climb and that's more important than any summit." His sentiment is a lesson to us all, I believe it’s a perfect example of the true climbing spirit. I will never be able to thank him enough for what he did for me, he is an amazing man and a real hero.

— Tom Moores, 2001[32]

In 2013,[33] he bought a helicopter with his own money to carry out search and rescue operations in the Nepalese Himalayas for Nepalese people.[13][34] He has piloted the helicopter several times to rescue alpinists, sherpas, trekkers, and people in remote areas.[13][35]

Charitable work

[edit]

In 2003, Moro projected and financed a school for 396 Sherpa children in the Nepalese village of Syadul. The objective of the project, carried with an Italian foundation, was to prevent early school-leaving in the area.[36][37] The school was opened in 2005. It is located in a village a thousand meters above sea level and three hours from the nearest road.[38]

Near the Nanga Parbat base camp, he financed, built, and donated to the Pakistani district of Gilgit Baltistan a small masonry building for local shepherds and a small hospital in the village of Ser.[39]

Eight-thousanders climbed

[edit]
S.No Mountain Years Season
1 Shishapangma 1996, 2005[40] Winter (first winter ascent in 2004 Lafaille)
2 Lhotse 1994, 1997[41] Spring
3 Cho Oyu 2002[42] Spring
4 Broad Peak 2003[43] Summer
5 Makalu 2009[44] Winter (first winter ascent)
6 Mount Everest 2000,[45] 2002,[46] 2006,[47] 2010[48] All Spring
7 Gasherbrum II 2011[49] Winter (first winter ascent)
8 Nanga Parbat 2016[50][51] Winter (first winter ascent)

Bibliography

[edit]

Books

[edit]
  • Moro, Simone(2014) The Call of The Ice [52][53]
  • Moro, Simone(2003) Cometa sull'Annapurna [Italian][54]
  • Ho visto l'abisso - Rizzoli, 2020
  • I sogni non sono in discesa - Rizzoli, 2019
  • Siberia -71°. Là dove gli uomini amano il freddo - Rizzoli, 2018
  • Devo perché posso. La mia via per la felicità oltre le montagne (with Marianna Zanatta) - Rizzoli, 2017
  • In cordata. Storia di un'amicizia tra due generazioni da zero a ottomila metri (with Mario Curnis) - Rizzoli, 2015
  • Nanga. Fra rispetto e pazienza, come ho corteggiato la montagna che chiamavano assassina - Rizzoli, 2019
  • 8000 metri di vita. Ediz. italiana e inglese - Corbaccio, 2023
  • Everest. In vetta a un sogno. Nuova ediz. - Mondadori Electa, 2023
  • A ogni passo. Le storie di montagna e di vita che racconto a mio figlio - Rizzoli, 2021
  • Il team invisibile. Come diventare una squadra vincente e affrontare le sfide del lavoro e del mondo che cambiano (with Marianna Zanatta) - Rizzoli, 2021
  • In ginocchio sulle ali. La passione per il volo, la missione di soccorso in quota: non voglio smettere di sognare - Rizzoli, 2020[55]

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Simone Moro

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Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967) is an Italian mountaineer, pilot, , and motivational speaker renowned for pioneering winter ascents of four 8,000-metre peaks, including in 2005, in 2009, in 2011, and in 2016, making him the first climber to achieve this feat. Born in , , Moro began at age 13 in 1980 and quickly progressed to competitive , completing over 30 routes graded 8a and 8b+ (5.13a to 5.14a) between 1987 and 1989 as a professional in the Italian Rock Climbing Federation. Over his career, he has undertaken more than 70 expeditions to high-altitude peaks, summiting eight of the world's fourteen 8,000-metre mountains and reaching the summit of four times, including a solo south-to-north traverse in 2006. His notable includes climbing four peaks over 7,000 metres in 38 days. Beyond , Moro is a certified helicopter pilot with private (PPL) and commercial (CPL) licenses obtained in 69 days, specializing in high-altitude rescues, and has conducted numerous emergency operations in the . He has authored several books detailing his expeditions, such as Everest: In Vetta a un Sogno and 8000 Metri di Vita, and serves as a . Moro has received prestigious awards, including the David A. Sowles Award from the American Alpine Club in 2002 for his rescue efforts, the Pierre de Coubertin Fair Play Award and for Civil Valor in 2003, and the of the Italian Alpine Club in 2016. Additionally, he founded a school in serving 396 children and established a climbing school and medical dispensary in to support local communities.

Early life and background

Childhood and family

Simone Moro was born on October 27, 1967, in , a city in nestled at the foothills of the . Growing up in this mountainous region, Moro spent his early years exploring the local landscape, which naturally fostered a connection to the outdoors through family outings in the nearby and . Moro came from a middle-class family with no direct heritage in mountaineering, but one that emphasized resilience and self-reliance through active pursuits. His father, a competitive road cyclist and banker by profession, played a key role in encouraging physical activities and international-mindedness in the household. This environment instilled in Moro an early appreciation for endurance sports like cycling, shaping his formative years before he discovered climbing. The proximity of to alpine terrain sparked Moro's initial interests in adventure sports, including influenced by his father, and laid the groundwork for his later passion for the mountains. By age 13, these experiences led him to begin formal training in the region.

Introduction to mountaineering

Simone Moro began his journey at the age of 13 in the near his hometown of , , where he initially explored routes with his father, fostering a deep passion for the outdoors. His early experiences focused on and in the local Prealps, building foundational skills through challenging local crags that emphasized technique and endurance. Moro's training progressed rapidly as he joined the Italian Rock Climbing Federation and immersed himself in the competitive scene of the 1980s. By age 17, he participated in the inaugural Italian sport climbing competition in in 1985, followed by national events that honed his abilities on routes up to 8b+ (5.14a) by the late 1980s. At 20, he earned a spot on the Italian national sport climbing team, competing internationally and eventually serving as the team's coach from 1992 to 1996, which marked his shift toward broader alpinism. Inspired by Italian mountaineering legends such as , whose books and lectures emphasized exploration and oxygen-free ascents, Moro developed an early ambition to conquer high-altitude peaks, undeterred by the absence of initial formal sponsorships or institutional support. This motivation drove his transition to in the early , as he sought to apply his competitive discipline to more demanding, multi-day alpine routes beyond the Prealps.

Mountaineering career

Early expeditions and breakthroughs

Simone Moro's entry into elite began with his first Himalayan expedition in 1992, when he attempted via the North Ridge, reaching 7,400 meters before turning back due to harsh conditions. This marked his transition from competitive —where he had served as coach of the Italian national team from 1992 to 1996—to high-altitude alpinism, driven by a desire to tackle the world's most formidable peaks without supplemental oxygen. By the mid-1990s, Moro was establishing himself through bold, lightweight ascents in the and , prioritizing speed and technical difficulty over traditional siege-style tactics. A pivotal breakthrough came in 1993, when Moro achieved the first winter ascent of (6,962 meters), completing the climb in just 13 hours via the Polish Route, demonstrating his affinity for extreme conditions. Later that year, he undertook a solo attempt on (8,485 meters) via the challenging Kukuczka Route, reaching 8,300 meters without oxygen before weather forced a retreat—a feat that highlighted his endurance and self-reliance at extreme altitude. These efforts garnered initial attention in Italian climbing circles, where Moro's dual expertise in sport routes (including 8b grades) and big walls began attracting modest sponsorships from outdoor brands eager to support emerging talent. In 1995, Moro led an Italian-Polish team to (8,586 meters), advancing to 7,600 meters on the southwest face despite relentless storms; during the descent, the group discovered the remains of pioneering climber , missing since 1992, bringing international media focus to the expedition and solidifying Moro's reputation for resilience in tragedy-prone environments. The following year, he made a rapid solo ascent of via the normal route to the central summit (8,008 meters), without oxygen in approximately 20 hours, followed by a ski descent from 7,100 meters—an innovative blend of alpinism and ski-mountaineering that underscored his evolving style. Moro's partnerships with renowned alpinists further propelled his career; in 1997, he summited (8,516 meters) alongside Kazakh climber via the standard route, without oxygen, in a 17-hour push from Camp 2, fostering collaborations that emphasized alpine-style efficiency. By 2000, after summiting (8,848 meters) with via the route, Moro had secured broader recognition within the Italian Alpine Club and international community, transitioning fully to professional expeditions supported by sponsors like . These early ventures laid the foundation for his later innovations, establishing him as a bridge between European precision and Himalayan high-altitude daring.

Eight-thousander ascents

Simone Moro has summited eight of the fourteen s, achieving these climbs in alpine style with minimal logistical support, often without supplemental oxygen, which distinguishes his efforts from many commercial expeditions that rely on fixed ropes, Sherpa assistance, and bottled oxygen. His approach emphasizes speed, self-sufficiency, and technical proficiency, reflecting a purist that prioritizes the mountain's challenges over supported ascents. By 2025, Moro had undertaken over 70 expeditions worldwide, with his climbs spanning from 1996 to 2016, showcasing progressive innovation in high-altitude . As of 2025, Moro continues winter expeditions, including attempts on remaining eight-thousanders like , without additional summits reported. Moro's first eight-thousander summit was on Shishapangma's Central Summit in 1996, followed by rapid progress in the late 1990s and early 2000s on peaks like and . His partnership with Kazakh climber became pivotal, enabling several record-breaking ascents, including fast pushes on and . These climbs contrasted sharply with the siege-style tactics common on popular routes, as Moro frequently opted for lightweight teams and direct ascents to reduce environmental impact and enhance the raw experience of the terrain. The pinnacle of Moro's eight-thousander career lies in his pioneering winter ascents, where he achieved four firsts—more than any other climber—on Shishapangma (2005), Makalu (2009), Gasherbrum II (2011), and Nanga Parbat (2016). These were accomplished without oxygen, in extreme cold averaging -40°C, and using alpine tactics that avoided pre-established camps or fixed lines, underscoring his expertise in managing frostbite risks, high winds, and short weather windows. Such feats not only expanded the boundaries of winter mountaineering but also highlighted the feasibility of oxygen-free climbs on the world's highest peaks, inspiring a shift toward lighter, more ethical practices amid growing overcrowding on routes like Everest's Southeast Ridge. The following table summarizes Moro's eight-thousander summits, including dates, partners, routes, and notable details:
PeakDate(s)PartnersRouteNotes
ShishapangmaOctober 1996Solo (Central Summit)First ; skied descent from 7,100 m. First winter ascent on January 14, 2005, with Piotr Morawski, without oxygen.
LhotseMay 1997 (South Face)Early collaboration with Boukreev; second summit in 2010 without oxygen.
EverestMay 2000, May 2002, May 2006, May 2010 (2000); othersSoutheast Ridge (2000, 2002, 2010); South-North Traverse (2006)Four summits; 2006 traverse solo without oxygen; 2010 without oxygen. Total time on 2000 ascent: 16 hours from Camp 4.
Cho OyuMay 9, 2002Franco Nicolini, Mirco Mezzanotte (Northwest Face)Alpine style in 10 hours 30 minutes from Advanced Base Camp, without oxygen.
Broad PeakJuly 2003Iñaki OchoaApproximately 29-hour push from Base Camp, without oxygen, alpine style.
MakaluFebruary 9, 2009 (Southeast Ridge)First winter ascent, without oxygen; 11-hour summit day from Camp 3 amid high winds.
Gasherbrum IIFebruary 2, 2011, Cory Richards (Southwest Ridge)First winter ascent, without oxygen; team endured avalanche and -40°C conditions.
Nanga ParbatFebruary 26, 2016Alex Txikon, (Kinshofer)First complete winter ascent, without oxygen; 1,200m push in 14 hours from Camp 3.
Moro's record demonstrates a commitment to , with six of his eight summits oxygen-free and four in winter conditions previously deemed impossible. This selective focus on over has cemented his legacy as a trailblazer, influencing modern alpinists to prioritize sustainability and personal challenge over accumulation of peaks. Despite attempts on the remaining six eight-thousanders, including multiple winter bids on and , Moro's verified achievements stand as benchmarks for ethical high-altitude .

Winter ascents and innovations

Simone Moro holds the unique distinction of being the only mountaineer to achieve the first winter ascents of four s, pioneering extreme cold-weather climbing in the Himalaya and . His breakthrough came on January 14, 2005, with the first winter summit of (8,027 m) alongside Polish climber Piotr Morawski, completed without supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters via the standard North Face route. This feat marked the second-ever winter ascent of an , following Krzysztof Wielicki's 1980 climb, and established Moro as a leading figure in winter alpinism. Four years later, on February 9, 2009, Moro and Kazakh partner accomplished the first winter ascent of (8,485 m), tackling the Southeast Ridge (normal route) in a fast, lightweight push that avoided fixed ropes and oxygen, enduring relentless winds and sub-zero conditions. Their success opened a new era for winter Himalayan climbing, highlighting the feasibility of alpine-style tactics in the harshest seasons. Moro continued his record with the first winter ascent of (8,035 m) on February 2, 2011, partnering with Urubko and American Cory Richards; the team followed the Southwest Ridge (normal route) in the , facing avalanche risks and extreme isolation, but summited without supplemental oxygen after a dramatic storm that separated Richards temporarily. Culminating his quartet, Moro reached Nanga Parbat's (8,126 m) summit on February 26, 2016, with Spanish climber Alex Txikon and Pakistani , via the Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face—the first winter ascent of this notoriously difficult peak, achieved in pure alpine style without fixed ropes or porters. These accomplishments, spanning over a decade, underscore Moro's unparalleled expertise, as no other climber has matched his tally of winter firsts on peaks above 8,000 meters. Throughout his career, Moro has undertaken 15 winter expeditions, emphasizing speed, minimal bivouacs, and lightweight equipment to mitigate the brutal conditions of high-altitude winter climbing. He collaborated with La Sportiva on innovative footwear, including the G2 SM double boot—a technical, lightweight design optimized for sub-zero Himalayan traverses and icefalls—and the prototype, tailored for extreme cold while reducing weight for faster ascents. Moro's approach prioritizes "fast and light" tactics, often limiting exposure with short pushes and few overnights, as demonstrated in his and climbs where teams minimized gear and relied on precise weather windows. Winter ascents present profound challenges, including temperatures routinely below -40°C, ferocious winds exceeding 100 km/h, and deep snow that complicates route-finding and increases danger. On expeditions like , Moro documented nights where thermometers plummeted to -45°C at high camps, testing even specialized gear limits. Moro views winter as the epitome of pure alpinism, a raw exploration unmarred by crowds or commercial infrastructure, where success demands not just physical but a deep respect for nature's unforgiving power and the spirit of adventure.

Rescue operations and aviation

Helicopter piloting expertise

Simone Moro obtained his private pilot license (PPL(H)) in spring 2009 through an intensive training program in the United States, completing it in just 33 days, followed by his commercial pilot license (CPL(H)) in 36 days. This rapid acquisition marked the beginning of his specialization in high-altitude operations, building on his extensive background to address risks encountered in extreme environments. He holds multiple certifications, including EASA, FAA, and qualifications, enabling flights with various models such as the AS350/H125 and AW119 . Moro's expertise centers on precision maneuvers in thin air, including mastery of hovering and landings at altitudes exceeding 7,000 meters, where oxygen scarcity and turbulent conditions demand exceptional skill. These adaptations, informed by his experience, allow sustained operations in environments where standard helicopters falter. In the , Moro transitioned from primarily pursuits to a hybrid role as an alpinist-pilot, leveraging his piloting skills to integrate capabilities into his expeditions. This shift culminated in his first high-altitude flights in the around 2013, establishing him as a pioneer in aerial interventions at extreme elevations. He has accumulated extensive flight hours, primarily in high-altitude commercial and exploratory contexts.

Notable high-altitude rescues

Simone Moro has pioneered high-altitude rescues in the , leveraging his dual expertise as an and pilot to perform operations previously considered impossible due to thin air and extreme conditions. His interventions have focused on long-line extractions, where a rescuer is lowered via cable from the hovering to secure the casualty, and pinpoint landings on precarious , often at altitudes exceeding 6,000 meters where rotor efficiency plummets. These techniques allow for rapid evacuation without requiring ground teams to descend with injured climbers, minimizing further risk in oxygen-deprived environments. Moro has conducted numerous such rescues in and , saving many lives. One of Moro's breakthrough operations occurred in May 2012 on Tengkangpoche (6,982 m) in , marking the first helicopter long-line recovery above 6,000 meters. Piloting an AS350 B3, Moro coordinated the extraction of a Ukrainian mountaineer's body frozen in ice at 6,500 m, using a drill to free it before winching it aboard—a novel adaptation for high-altitude recovery that set a precedent for future missions. This feat demonstrated the viability of aerial interventions on steep, technical faces, where traditional ground-based efforts would have been infeasible. In , Moro elevated the boundaries of rescue aviation with the world's highest long-line operation at 7,800 m on the Face near . On May 19, he oversaw the airlift of an injured Nepali-Canadian climber from the using a long-line system, achieving a record altitude for helicopter-assisted evacuation amid high winds and low oxygen levels that challenged engine performance. The mission, involving co-pilots Maurizio Folini and a Sherpa rescuer, rescued the casualty after a Sherpa team had stabilized him higher on the wall, highlighting the synergy between aerial and ground efforts. A landmark achievement came in 2023 on Mount Everest's south side, where Moro executed a rare landing at Camp III (7,350 m) to evacuate an Indian climber suffering from severe . Despite regulatory scrutiny that later grounded him temporarily, the pinpoint landing in thin air—requiring exceptional throttle control and balance—facilitated the climber's immediate descent, preventing a fatal outcome in a location typically beyond rotor reach. This mission exemplified Moro's innovative approach to direct extractions over long-line methods when conditions permitted. In April 2025, Moro performed another daring rescue on , landing his at Camp III (approximately 6,500 m) on Easter Sunday to evacuate a Ukrainian climber suffering from and exhaustion. Despite strong winds and thin air, he used to land on a small ledge and fly the climber to base camp, then to . Moro's rescues have significantly impacted Himalayan by accelerating evacuations and filling critical gaps in Nepal's response , where prior delays often proved deadly. Additionally, Moro has developed specialized techniques for high-altitude piloting, pushing performance limits and instructing other aviators on long-line procedures and thin-air maneuvers to expand the pool of capable rescuers.

Other contributions

Charitable and environmental efforts

Simone Moro has engaged in various philanthropic initiatives to support mountain communities, particularly in the . In 2003, he personally financed the construction of a in the remote Nepalese village of Syadul to educate 396 Sherpa children, aiming to provide long-term opportunities for local youth in a region heavily impacted by tourism. He has also sponsored the education of at least three Sherpa children, drawing from his extensive experience in the area spanning over two decades. In , Moro funded the building of a small and an alpinism to enhance medical access and training for high-altitude porters, motivated by the that affected many local climbers. Moro's environmental advocacy emphasizes preserving Himalayan ecosystems amid growing mountaineering pressures. He has publicly criticized on , describing the mountain in 2012 as "like an " due to overcrowding at high camps, with over 200 climbers queued for the summit push, leading to oxygen shortages, delays, and heightened risks for all involved. This stance reflects his broader push for sustainable climbing practices, including better coordination among expeditions to reduce environmental strain and climber congestion. As a collaborator in the NeverRest Project, an initiative partnering with the Nepalese government since 2022, Moro supports efforts to address 's challenges, focusing on non-polluting removal of debris from base camps and higher altitudes to mitigate and promote eco-friendly .

Publications and public engagement

Simone Moro has authored 13 books as of 2023, translated into seven languages, chronicling his mountaineering exploits, personal reflections, and philosophical insights into alpinism. His works often draw from his pioneering winter ascents and high-altitude experiences, blending narrative adventure with broader themes of human endurance and ethical decision-making in extreme environments. Key titles include La voce del ghiaccio (2013), an account of his winter climbs on 8,000-meter peaks that explores the psychological and physical demands of such endeavors, later published in English as The Call of the Ice: Climbing 8000-Meter Peaks in Winter (2014). Another seminal book, Cometa sull'Annapurna (originally 2003, reissued 2022), details his early breakthroughs on the mountain, emphasizing innovation in route-finding and teamwork. More recent autobiographies like Ho visto l’abisso (2022) and 8000 metri di vita (2023) reflect on his career's risks and rescues, offering motivational perspectives on resilience and life's fragility. Beyond writing, Moro has established himself as a prominent through keynote speaking and media engagements, reaching global audiences with talks on alpinism's challenges. He has delivered motivational speeches at major events, including appearances at the Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival, where films documenting his climbs—such as (2011), which chronicled his first winter ascent of —have won grand prizes and highlighted his innovative approaches to high-altitude exploration. His presentations often focus on themes of , ethical practices, and personal growth through adversity, inspiring corporate and adventure audiences worldwide. Moro's public engagement extends to collaborative documentaries and visual storytelling, partnering with photographers and filmmakers to produce expedition films that capture the raw essence of his adventures. Works like I-View (2015), a finalist at the Banff Mountain Film Festival, showcase his journey through intimate visuals and narratives on innovation in winter alpinism. These projects not only document his achievements but also promote discussions on the of , drawing from his real-world experiences in climbs and rescues to underscore the balance between ambition and responsibility.

References

  1. https://simonemoro.com/story/
  2. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/exclusive-simone-moro-tamara-lunger-on-the-first-winter-ascent-of-nanga-parbat
  3. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213676/Nanga-Parbat-First-Winter-Ascent
  4. https://simonemoro.wordpress.com/about/
  5. https://www.lasportiva.com/en/blog/ambassadors/simone-moro
  6. https://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/about-us/athletes/simone-moro
  7. https://www.thenorthface.com/en-gb/athletes/simone-moro
  8. https://www.climbing.com/culture-climbing/simon-moro-worlds-greatest-winter-mountaneer/
  9. https://gearlimits.com/inspiratie/geartalk-with-simone-moro-8000er-winter-ascent-specialist-2/
  10. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/simone-moro-from-sports-climbing-to-8000m-summits.html
  11. https://www.rnz.co.nz/national/programmes/ninetonoon/audio/2018944344/italian-alpinist-and-everest-helicopter-pilot-simone-moro
  12. https://www.mountain.ru/eng/climb/2003/Moro/index.shtml
  13. https://simonemoro.com/expeditions/
  14. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199626301/asia-nepal-kangchenjunga-body-of-female-discovered
  15. https://explorersweb.com/interview-simone-moro-on-winter-k2-2017-12-21-79552/
  16. https://www.summitpost.org/italian-simone-moro/370766
  17. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/broad-peak-success-for-moro-ochoa-lafaille-viesturs.html
  18. https://www.summitclimb.de/en/8000m-peaks
  19. https://www.summitpost.org/simone-moro-denis-urubko-and-cory-richards/697056
  20. https://explorersweb.com/winter-nanga-parbat-summitp-2016-02-26-13603/
  21. https://altitudehelicopters.it/about/team/simone-moro/
  22. https://verticalmag.com/features/qa-simone-moro/
  23. https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/simone-moro-alpinist-helicopter-rescue-pilot-everest-kingpin/
  24. https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/everest/annapurna-helicopter-rescue/
  25. https://simonemoro.com/helicopter-pilot/
  26. https://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2013/05/22/simone-moro-in-highest-ever-everest-helicopter-of-stricken-climber
  27. https://de.eoft.eu/en/win/adventurer-award/about-simone-moro
  28. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/130502-mount-everest-fight-simone-moro-interview-sherpas
  29. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/everest-like-an-amusement-park-simone-moro-abandons-everest-and-lhotse-attempt.html
  30. https://theneverrestproject.org/2022/12/11/the-neverrest-project-and-the-nepal-government-join-forces-to-tackle-the-highest-environmental-challenges-in-mount-everest-2/
  31. https://simonemoro.com/books/
  32. https://www.banffcentre.ca/articles/2011-banff-mountain-film-competition-grand-prize-winner-visceral-image-world-8000m
  33. https://www.getapeptalk.com/experts/simone-moro-speaker
  34. https://simonemoro.com/movies/i-view/
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