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Manaslu
Manaslu
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Manaslu (/məˈnɑːsl/; Nepali: मनास्लु, also known as Kutang) is the eighth-highest mountain in the world at 8,163 metres (26,781 ft) above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the spirit" and the word is derived from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul". Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi [ja] and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. It is said that, given the many unsuccessful attempts by the British to climb Everest before Nepali Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary, "just as the British consider Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain".[5][6]

Key Information

Manaslu Peak

Manaslu is the highest peak in the Gorkha District and is about 64 km (40 mi) east of Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain in the world at 8,091 metres (26,545 ft) above sea level. Manaslu's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions and culminate in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape and is a dominant feature when viewed from afar.[7][6][8][9]

The Manaslu region offers a variety of trekking options. The popular Manaslu trekking route of 177 kilometres (110 mi) skirts the Manaslu massif over the pass down to Annapurna. The Nepalese Government only permitted trekking on this circuit in 1991.[10] The trekking trail follows an ancient salt-trading route along the Budhi Gandaki River. En route, 10 peaks over 6,500 metres (21,325 ft) are visible, including a few over 7,000 metres (22,966 ft). The highest point reached along the trek route is Larkya La at an elevation of 5,106 metres (16,752 ft). As of May 2008, the mountain has been climbed 297 times with 53 fatalities.[11][7][12][needs update]

The Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) was established in 1997 with the primary objective of achieving conservation and sustainable management of the delimited area, which also includes Manaslu.[13]

General

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Set in the northern Himalayan range in the Gorkha District of Nepal, Manaslu is a serrated "wall of snow and ice hanging in the sky".[14] The three sides of the mountain fall in steps to terraces down below, which are sparsely inhabited with agricultural operations practiced on the land. Apart from climbing Manaslu, trekking is popular in this mountain region, as part of the Manaslu Circuit, a notable path for trekkers in Nepal.[7]

The Manaslu Conservation Area, declared as such in December 1998 under the National Parks and Wildlife Conservation Act, subsumes Manaslu within it. The area covered under the conservation zone is 1,663 square kilometres (642 mi2)[15] and is managed by the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC) of Nepal. The status of "conservation area" applied to the Manaslu area or region was with the basic objective of "To conserve and sustainably manage the natural resources and rich cultural heritage and to promote ecotourism to improve livelihood of the local people in the MCA region."[13]

Manaslu Himal, as it is popularly known among trekkers, offers views of the snow-capped Himalayan mountains and provides an opportunity for interaction with the diverse ethnic groups that inhabit the hill villages scattered along the trek route.[16]

The trekking route is through mountainous terrain prone to the consequences of monsoon rainfall, landslides, and landfalls. Hypothermia and altitude sickness, as well as encounters with passing yaks, are common. Trekking to Manaslu is thus a test of endurance.[17]

Geography

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Manaslu from base camp
Manaslu range

The region, which is also termed the Manaslu Conservation Area, comprises sub-tropical Himalayan foothills to arid Trans-Himalayan high pastures bordering Tibet. Starting from Arughat and extending into the Larkhe La pass, the area covers six climatic zones: the tropical and sub-tropical zone, elevation varies from 1,000–2,000 metres (3,300–6,600 ft); the temperate zone (within elevation range of 2,000–3,000 metres (6,600–9,800 ft); the sub-alpine zone elevation range of 3,000–4,000 metres (9,800–13,100 ft); the alpine zone, a range of 4,000–5,000 metres (13,000–16,000 ft)) meadows; and the arctic zone (lying above 4,500 metres (14,800 ft)). The zones coalesce with the variation of the altitude from about 600 metres (2,000 ft) in the tropical zone to the 8,156 metres (26,759 ft) summit of Manaslu in the arctic zone.[6][18][19]

The morning view of Manaslu from Samagoan Village

Manaslu is known in the Tibetan language as "Kutan l", in which "tang" means the Tibetan word for a flat place. It is a very large peak with an elevation of 8,163 metres (26,781 ft) (the world's eighth-highest mountain). In view of its favourable topography of long ridges and glacial valleys, Manaslu offers several routes to mountaineers. Important peaks surrounding Manaslu include Ngadi Chuli, Himalchuli and Baudha. A glacial saddle known as Larkya La, with an elevation of 5,106 metres (16,752 ft), lies north of Manaslu. The peak is bounded on the east by the Ganesh Himal and the Buri Gandaki River gorge, on the west by the deep fissures of the Marysyangdi Khola with its Annapurna range of hills, and to the south is the Gorkha town at the foot of the hill (from where trekking operates during the season), which is an aerial distance of 48 kilometres (30 mi) to the peak. There are six established trek routes to the peak, and the south face is reportedly the most difficult for climbing.[6][18]

Climate

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The permanent snow line is reckoned above 5,000 metres (16,000 ft) elevation. Precipitation in the area is both from snowfall and rainfall; the average annual rainfall is about 1,900 millimetres (75 in), mostly during the monsoon period, which extends from June to September. The temperatures in the area also vary widely with the climatic zone: in the subtropical zone, the average summer and winter temperatures vary in the range of 31–34 °C (88–93 °F) and 8–13 °C (46–55 °F) respectively; in the temperate climatic zone, the summer temperatures are 22–25 °C (72–77 °F) and winter temperatures are −2–6 °C (28–43 °F) when snow and frost are also experienced; in the subalpine zone, during December to May snowfall generally occurs and the mean annual temperature is 6–10 °C (43–50 °F). The Arctic zone is distinct and falls within the permanent snow line; there, the temperatures lie much below freezing.[19]

Major peaks

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Major peaks of Mansiri Himal range (left to right): Manaslu, Ngadi Chuli, Himalchuli

There are other major peaks in the region, namely Himalchuli (7,893 m or 25,896 ft), Ngadi Chuli (7,871 m or 25,823 ft), Shringi (7,187 m or 23,579 ft), Langpo (6,668 m or 21,877 ft) and Saula (6,235 m or 20,456 ft).[20]

Ecosystem

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Fauna

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Unlike many other regions, this valley is a sanctuary to many highly endangered animals, including snow leopards and red pandas. Other mammals include lynx, Asian black bear, grey wolf, dhole, Assam macaque, Himalayan musk deer, blue sheep, Himalayan tahr, mainland serow, Himalayan goral, woolly hare, horseshoe bat, Himalayan mouse-hare, and black-lipped pika.[20] Over 110 species of birds, 33 mammals, 11 butterflies, and 3 reptiles have been recorded.[19][21] Conservation of wildlife in the area has been achieved by monks of the monasteries in the area by putting a hunting ban in place. This action has helped wildlife to prosper. The area is now an important habitat for the snow leopard, grey wolf, musk deer, blue sheep, and the Himalayan tahr.[13]

Some 110 species of birds have been identified in the area, including golden eagle, Eurasian griffon, Himalayan griffon, blood, impeyan, kalij and koklass pheasants, Himalayan and Tibetan snow cocks, and the crimson horned pheasant.[20]

Vegetation

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Three main categories of vegetation have been identified in the area. These are categorized on the basis of altitude as low hill, middle mountain, and high mountain types with exclusive types of dominant forests and other associated species. The types of vegetation, however, tend to overlap the adjoining ones at places. Depending on the microclimate and other aspects, an overlap of vegetation is noticed in adjacent areas. However, the forest types are fairly well-defined. The flora in different forest types also does not show much variation. The valley basin has a rich ecotone diversity and includes nineteen different types of forests, most prominently rhododendron, and also Himalayan blue pine, which is flanked by Ganesh Himal and the Sringi ranges. Medicinal herbs and aromatic plants have also been recorded in different forest types and adjoining vegetation. Overall, the presence of 19 types of forests and other forms of dominant vegetation have been recorded from the area.[19][21] An estimated 1,500–2,000 plant species grow here.[20]

Ethnic groups

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There are two ethnicities mainly inhabiting this region; Nubri and Tsum. The branching off of the river at Chhikur divides these two ethnic domains. While Nubri has been frequently visited since Nepal opened itself for tourism in 1950, Tsum still retains much of its traditional culture, art, and tradition. In the central hills of the region, Gurungs are the main ethnic group who have joined the Brigade of Gurkhas in large numbers. Closer to Tibet, the Bhutias (also spelled Bhotias), akin to the Sherpa group, of Tibetan ethnicity dominate the scene as can be discerned from their flat-roofed houses, and they are distinctly Buddhists. The region is dotted with austere monasteries, mani walls, chortens and other Buddhist religious landmarks.

Climbing history

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Climber approaching the summit of Manaslu

In 1950, H. W. Tilman was the first European to lead an expedition to the Annapurna Range with a small party of five compatriots. They walked on foot from the Kathmandu Valley (six days of trekking from the valley), and using Manang as their base camp they started exploring the mountain ranges, peaks, and valleys of the Annapurna massif. During this exploration, while making a reconnaissance of the higher reaches of the Dudh Khola, they clearly saw Manaslu from Bumtang. Three months later, after their aborted trip to Annapurna IV, Tilman, accompanied by Major J. O. M. Roberts, trekked to Larkya La pass and from there saw Manaslu and its plateau and concluded that there was a direct route to the summit, although they did not make an attempt on it.[22]

After the reconnaissance visit by Tilman, there were four Japanese expeditions between 1950 and 1955 that explored the possibility of climbing Manaslu by the north and east faces.[23]

In 1952, a Japanese reconnaissance party visited the area after the monsoon season. In the following year (1953), a team of 15 climbers led by Y. Mita, after setting up base camp at Samagaon, attempted to climb via the east side but failed to reach the summit. In this first attempt by a Japanese team to summit via the northeast face, three climbers reached a height of 7,750 metres (25,430 ft), before turning back.[24]

In 1954, a Japanese team approaching the Buri Gandaki route to the peak faced a hostile group of villagers at Samagaon camp. The villagers thought that the previous expeditions had displeased the gods, causing the avalanches that destroyed the Pung-gyen Monastery and the death of 18 people. As a result of this hostility, the team made a hasty retreat to Ganesh Himal.[25] To appease local sentiments, a large donation was made to rebuild the monastery. However, this philanthropic act did not ease the atmosphere of distrust and hostility towards Japanese expeditions. Even the expedition in 1956 which successfully climbed the mountain faced this situation and as a result the next Japanese expedition only took place in 1971.[5]

In 1956, Toshio Imanishi (Japan) and Gyaltsen Norbu (Sherpa) made the first ascent of Manaslu on May 9, 1956.[26] The Japanese expedition was led by Maki Yūkō, also known as Aritsune Maki.[4]

In 1956, David Snellgrove, a noted scholar in Tibetan culture and religion, undertook a seven-month sojourn of mid-west and central Nepal. The route that he followed, accompanied by three Nepalese people, was via Bumtang and Buri Gandaki river and crossing over to the Larkya La.[25]

1970s

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The next successful climb to the summit of Manaslu was in 1971. On May 17, 1971, Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, part of an 11-man Japanese team, reached the summit via the north-west spur.[11] Also in 1971, Kim Ho-sup led a Korean expedition attempt via the north-east face. Kim Ki-sup fell to his death on May 4.[11] In 1972, the south-west face was climbed for the first time by Reinhold Messner as part of an Austrian expedition.[27][11] In 1972, the Koreans attempted the north-east face. On April 10, an avalanche buried their camp at 6,500 metres (21,300 ft), killing fifteen climbers including ten Sherpas and the Korean expedition leader Kim Ho-sup,[28] and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan.[11] On April 22, 1973, Gerhard Schmatz, Sigi Hupfauer and a Sherpa climber reached the summit via the north-east face. In the same year, a Spanish expedition led by Jaume Garcia Orts could reach only to 6,100 metres (20,000 ft).[11] The first Japanese women expedition led by Kyoko Sato was successful on May 4, 1974,[29] when all members reached the summit after a failed attempt from the east ridge. They thus became the first women to climb a peak higher than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft).[30] However, one climber died on May 5 when she fell between camps 4 and 5.[11]

Manaslu (L), Thulagi (M), Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, R)

1980s

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In the pre-monsoon period of 1980, a South Korean team led by Li In-jung reached the summit via the normal route, which was the eighth ascent to the peak.[23] The year 1981 marked several expeditions: the largest contingent of 13 climbers of a team organized by the Sport-Eiselin of Zurich led by H. V. Kaenel, made it to the summit along the normal route; in autumn, French mountaineers opened a new route, a variation of the west face route; and a Japanese team, led by Y. Kato, made an ascent via the normal route.[23] In 1983, two climbers from Yugoslavia, trying to climb the peak from the south face, were buried under an avalanche. One of them was Nejc Zaplotnik, a notable climber of Slovenian origin. A Korean team reached the summit in the autumn of the same year. A German team led by G. Harter was successful in climbing the peak via the south face, which followed the "1972 Tyrolean Route".[23]

On May 10, 1983, four men from the Joint Services East Nepal Expedition made the first British ascent of Manaslu North using a totally new route, special permission from the Nepalese Government having been granted to access an area normally denied to Europeans; the team was led by Major Douglas Keelan of the Royal Marines and included members from the Royal Navy, Royal Air Force and Royal Marines.[31]

During the winter of 1983–84, a Polish team led by L. Korniszewski successfully followed the Tyrolean Route. On January 12, 1984, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski of that expedition made the first winter ascent via the normal route.[32][33]

In the spring season of 1984, a Yugoslav team led by A. Kunaver climbed the peak via the south face. During the same year, in autumn, Polish teams climbed the south ridge and south-east face.[23]

On November 9, 1986, Jerzy Kukuczka, Artur Hajzer, and Carlos Carsolio made the first climb of the east summit (7894 m) of Manaslu.[6] The next day, Kukuczka and Hajzer reached the summit via a new route, ascending the east ridge and descending the north-east face.[23]

1990s

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On May 2, 1993, Sepp Brunner, Gerhard Floßmann, Sepp Hinding and Dr. Michael Leuprecht reached the summit via the normal route and descended on skis from 7,000 metres (23,000 ft) to the basecamp. The Austrian expedition was led by Arthur Haid.[34] On December 8, 1995, Anatoli Boukreev summited Manaslu with the Second Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition. On May 12, 1996, Carlos Carsolio and his younger brother Alfredo, reached the summit of Manaslu. For Carsolio it was his fourteenth and final eight-thousander, becoming the fourth person in history and the youngest to achieve the feat.[35] In 1997, Charlie Mace made the first American ascent.[11]

2000s

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During the spring of 2000, there were four expeditions to Manaslu. One climb was on the east face by the 'Japan 2000 Expedition' led by Yoshio Maruyama. The other three were on the north-east ridge: the ETB 2000 Expedition of Spain led by Felix Maria I. Iriate; the 2000 Korean Manaslu Expedition of Korea led by Han Wang Yong; and the Manaslu 2000 Expedition from Italy led by Franco Brunello.[36] On May 22, 2001, a three-member team of Ukraine Himalaya 2001 Expedition comprising Serguiy Kovalov, Vadim Leontiev and Vladislav Terzyul successfully summited Manaslu via the challenging south-east face; all climbed without oxygen support. During the autumn of 2001, three members and a sherpa of the Japan Workers Alpine Federation climbed the peak via the north-east face on October 9, 2001.[37]

On May 13, 2002, five Americans, Tom Fitzsimmons, Jerome Delvin, Michael McGuffin, Dan Percival and Brian Sato and two Sherpas reached the summit.[6][38]

Piotr Pustelnik and Krzysztof Tarasewicz climbed Manaslu on May 17, 2003. However, Dariusz Zaluski, Anna Czerwinska and Barbara Drousek, who started the climb after Piotr and Krzysztof, had to turn back due to strong winds and bad weather. With this ascent Pustelnik had summited 12 on his way to summiting the world's 14 highest peaks.[39]

On May 29, 2006, Australian mountaineer Sue Fear died after falling into a crevasse on her descent after summiting.[40]

On December 1, 2006, former Formula 1 driver Ukyo Katayama achieved his lifetime ambition of climbing Manaslu, after a prior unsuccessful attempt in 2004.[41]

In 2008, Valerie Parkinson was the first British woman to climb Manaslu.[42]

2010s

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In 2011 Arjun Vajpai, an Indian mountaineer, summitted Manaslu on October 5 and became the youngest climber in the world to have summitted Manaslu at the age of 18.[43]

Eleven climbers were killed in an avalanche on September 23, 2012.[44] American free skier Glen Plake, who had planned to ski down Manaslu without supplemental oxygen, was a survivor.[45]

On September 25, 2014, Polish ski-mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel set a record time from base camp to summit at 14 hours 5 minutes and also record time for base-peak-base of 21 hours 14 minutes.[46]

2020s

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Sheikha Asma Al Thani

In 2021 Qatari mountaineer, Asma Al Thani, summited and became the first Arab to do so without oxygen.[47][48]

On the morning of September 26, 2022, an avalanche struck the route 24,000 ft., just below Camp IV at Mount Manaslu, enveloping 13 climbers which also killed Nepali guide Anup Rai. The climbers were ferrying logistics to the high camps before their summit push.[49] On the same day, American ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson fell down more than 1,800 metres (6,000 ft) from the summit of Mount Manaslu while skiing with her partner, Jim Morrison.[50] On September 28 her body was located above the Thulagi glacier on the south-west face of Mount Manaslu and was flown to Kathmandu by rescuers.[51][52]

On January 6, 2023, Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon, along with six sherpa climbers, made a successful winter ascent of Mount Manaslu, which had not been summited in winter in over 20 years.[53]

On September 23, 2023, Nawal Sfendla became the first Moroccan to summit Manaslu.[54]

Risk

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Traditionally, the "spring" or " pre-monsoon" season is the least hazardous for bad weather, snowfall, and avalanches. Manaslu is one of the more risky 8000ers to climb: as of May 2008, there have been 297 ascents of Manaslu and 53 deaths on the mountain,[12] making it "the 4th most dangerous 8000m peak, behind Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, and K2."[6]

Avalanches

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  • 2012 September: Nine people were killed and several went missing. The dead included Nepali, a Spanish and four French nationals. Five climbers were rescued after the avalanche.[55]
  • 2022 September 26: Anup Rai, a Nepali mountain guide, died in the avalanche while ferrying loads to Camp IV.
  • 2022 October 1: An avalanche on the lower flanks of the mountain killed Nepali guide Dawa Chhiring Sherpa, who had been descending from Camp 2 to Camp 1.[56]

Verification issues

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Manaslu has been identified as being one of the most problematic eight-thousanders for summit verification. Like Shishapangma, Manaslu has a false summit that is separated from the true summit by a long and dangerous sharp corniced ridge.[57] In 2021, an investigation by a team of international experts reported in the American Alpine Journal that the vast majority of climbers who claimed to have summited Manaslu had not in fact stood on the true peak.[58]

Trekking in the region

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The Manaslu region offers a variety of trekking options. The Manaslu Circuit Trek now usually starts in Arughat Bazaar and ends two to three weeks later in Besisahar, the starting point of the Annapurna Circuit Trek. Until recently the trek required camping, but building of tea-houses means the trek can be completed using local accommodation. The trek requires a Manaslu Restricted Area Permit and Manaslu Conservation Area Permit. The restricted area permit costs $100 US per week in autumn and $70 US per week in other seasons, whereas the conservation area permit costs a straight $30 US.[citation needed] Trekkers are required to travel in a group of at least two persons with a registered guide. The trek lies on the newly developed Great Himalaya Trail.[citation needed]

The best season to hike the circuit is spring (March, April, or May), just before the monsoon season begins. During this period, you can expect dry trails, stable weather, excellent visibility, and long trekking days. Similarly, autumn (September, October, and November) is another good season for the circuit, following the monsoon season.

The trek follows an ancient salt-trading route along the steep sided Budhi Gandaki river. From Deng, the slopes of ravines ease and views of snow peaks start appearing from Ligaon (Lhi). Further from Lhogaon (Lho), an impressive view of Manaslu, with its double peak, appears described as "a soaring monarch with a double-edged summit towering above fields of barley."[24]

Manaslu circuit trek

The route follows the pine-forested Syala village, which has the backdrop of many horseshoe-shaped peaks, and reaches the village of Samagaon (Sama) at the foot of Manaslu. There is a Buddhist monastery at Samagaon, where monks and nuns reside. After half a day's trek from Samagaon, the village of Samdo is reached. Samdo is the highest village in the Budhi Gandaki valley and is inhabited by Bhotias. This village commands a view of the valley and Pang Phuchi village with a backdrop of the Tibetan border. Further trekking leads along a major secondary valley to the Larkha La (Larkja La). Along this route, Cheo Himal, Himlung Himal (Nemjung) and Kang Guru are seen, along with occasional views of the Annapurna Massif. From here, the meadowland of Bimtang (Bimdakhoti) at elevation 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) is reached, from where Manaslu is clearly visible. From Manaslu, the circuit passes through Dudh Khola (a tributary of Marshyangdi river), criss-crosses Marsyangdi River before reaching Bhulbule, Tarukha Ghat, crosses the Chepe Khola and Dorandi Khola before returning to Gorkha.[24]

Two alternative routes are also popular. One is on the Annapurna Circuit trail but leaves it at Dharapani to reach Manang, crossing Thorong La and Jomsom (Kali Gandaki valley). From Jomsom flights depart to Pokhara. The other alternative route is from Bhulbule, crossing Marsyangdi to Khudi, divert from Annapurna trail and trek cross country through valleys and ridges to Sisuwa town on the bank of Begnas Tal. From here a road approach is available to Pokhara.[59]

When trekking through the Manaslu region, ten peaks of over 6,500 metres (21,300 ft) in height are visible, including peaks of over 7,000 metres (23,000 ft) elevation. People add Tsum Valley and the Ganesh Himal Base Camp as acclimatization trips before going on expeditions through the high passes. The Tsum region, which was restricted for tourists for a long time, is now the centre of attraction for trekkers, with the government of Nepal recently opening it for group tourists. In order to retain its pristine culture and sustain its fragile ecosystem, the Tsum Welfare Committee is involved in the promotion of responsible tourism in Tsum. However, local participation for sustainable tourism is still a challenging task with a long road ahead.[60]

Area development project

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Under loan funds provided by the Asian Development Bank, the government of Nepal has an infrastructure project titled "Manaslu Eco-tourism Development Project" under implementation. The objective is to improve the capacity of the Manaslu area to support tourism in an environmentally benign manner.[13]

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See also

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References

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Further reading

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[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
Manaslu is an and the eighth-highest mountain in the world, rising to 8,163 meters (26,781 feet) above in the Mansiri Himal range of the . Located in west-central Nepal's , approximately 40 miles (64 kilometers) east of I and 73 miles (118 kilometers) northwest of , it is the highest peak in its district and is revered locally as the "Mountain of the Spirit" due to its dramatic, isolated presence. First summited on May 9, 1956, by Japanese climber Toshio Imanishi and Nepali Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu via the North Face, Manaslu marked the third conquered after and Everest. The mountain's northeast serves as the standard route, offering a moderately angled and ascent that has seen over 3,750 successful s as of 2025, though it carries risks from and a narrow, corniced . With a fatality-to- ratio of approximately 2.4% as of 2025, Manaslu is considered one of the more accessible yet hazardous eight-thousanders, often used as preparation for expeditions, and approximately 50% of climbers reach the top without supplemental oxygen. Notable tragedies include a 1972 that killed 15 climbers and a 2012 event claiming 11 lives, underscoring its unpredictable weather and terrain, though the 2025 season saw over 600 s with no fatalities. Encompassing Manaslu is the Manaslu Conservation Area, established in 1998 and spanning 1,663 square kilometers across Gorkha and districts, which protects diverse ecosystems from subtropical forests to alpine meadows and harbors 33 mammal species—including snow leopards, , and blue sheep—along with 110 bird species and 11 butterfly species. This protected zone promotes through the Manaslu Conservation Area Project, involving local communities in preservation and maintenance, while the surrounding Manaslu Circuit trek attracts adventurers to its remote valleys and high passes like Larkya La at 5,106 meters.

Overview

Location and Elevation

Manaslu is situated on the border between the Gorkha and Districts of west-central , within the Mansiri Himal subrange of the Nepalese . The mountain's summit is located at precise coordinates of 28°32′58″N 84°33′43″E. At an elevation of 8,163 meters (26,781 feet) above sea level, Manaslu ranks as the eighth-highest mountain in the world. Manaslu exhibits a of 3,092 meters, indicating its significant independent rise from the surrounding terrain. Its line parent mountain is , the sixth-highest peak globally, which underscores Manaslu's position within the broader Himalayan prominence hierarchy. In regional context, Manaslu lies approximately 64 kilometers east of Annapurna I, the tenth-highest mountain at 8,091 meters, and is positioned eastward from the massif, the seventh-highest at 8,167 meters, highlighting its central role among Nepal's cluster of eight-thousanders.

Name Etymology and Significance

The name "Manaslu" derives from the word manasa, which translates to "" or "," and is commonly interpreted as "Mountain of the Spirit" due to its profound cultural resonance. This etymology underscores the peak's symbolic depth, evoking notions of inner wisdom and ethereal presence in Himalayan traditions. In local dialects, Manaslu is known as "Kutang" among Tibetan speakers, a term originating from the Tibetan word tang meaning "flat place," which refers to the mountain's broad summit plateau. This older nomenclature highlights the geographical features observed by indigenous communities long before modern . Manaslu holds sacred status in Tibetan Buddhism, where it is revered as the abode of protective deities such as Jomo, a believed to safeguard the surrounding valleys and their inhabitants. This spiritual association draws pilgrims to the region, who undertake journeys to offer prayers and seek blessings, viewing the mountain as a manifestation of divine energy intertwined with the landscape. The name Manaslu reflects its remote location in Nepal's borderlands, which limited early access and exploration until the mid-20th century. This designation reflects not only linguistic roots but also the awe inspired by its untamed, spiritually charged aura.

Geography

Topography and Geology

Manaslu forms part of the Greater Himalayan Sequence within the Himalayan orogen, resulting from the ongoing collision between the Indian and Eurasian plates that initiated around 50 million years ago during the Eocene. This tectonic convergence has driven extensive crustal shortening of approximately 1400 km and the uplift of the , with the Himalayan range emerging as a consequence of faulting and metamorphic processes. The mountain's core consists of high-grade metamorphic rocks, predominantly and derived from to protoliths, intruded by Miocene leucogranites such as the prominent Manaslu granite complex. This granite, emplaced episodically between 24 and 19 million years ago at depths ranging from 9 to 21 km, reflects of the crustal rocks during the intensified phase of Himalayan orogenesis. The of Manaslu is characterized by stark contrasts in profiles, with presenting an exceptionally steep rise exceeding 3,000 meters from its base in the to the , forming a formidable glacial wall prone to . In contrast, the south slopes descend more gradually into the deeply incised of the Budhi Gandaki River, which carves a narrow gorge through sharp ridges and creates a rugged, V-shaped terrain flanked by steep walls. This asymmetry arises from the underlying structures and differential , with the Budhi Gandaki's incision enhancing the prominence of the southern approach while the northern flank remains largely unglaciated and exposed. The surrounding landforms include extensive ridgelines and subsidiary peaks that contribute to the massif's isolation within the Mansiri Himal. Manaslu's glacial systems are integral to its topographic evolution, featuring multiple valley glaciers that radiate from the summit, including the expansive Manaslu Glacier spanning about 15 km². These glaciers, which have retreated significantly since the , dam moraine-bound lakes such as Birendra Lake at 3,691 meters , influencing regional by supplying meltwater to the upper Budhi Gandaki River basin. This contribution supports downstream river flows across a catchment of over 5,000 km², though the systems are vulnerable to instability from the mountain's steep gradients. Positioned along the active in central , Manaslu lies within a high-seismicity zone driven by the Indian plate's northward beneath at a rate of about 45 mm per year. This tectonic setting has resulted in recurrent moderate to large earthquakes, including historical events such as the 1505 Lo Mangthang earthquake (Mw 8.2–8.8), the 1833 Nepal earthquake (Mw 7.5–7.9), the 1934 Bihar-Nepal earthquake (Mw 8.0–8.5), and the 2015 Gorkha earthquake (Mw 7.8), which ruptured a 150 km segment and triggered widespread landslides affecting in the region. Ongoing convergence continues to pose risks to the mountain's structural integrity, with aftershocks illuminating fault geometries in the hanging wall above the thrust.

Climate and Glaciers

The Manaslu massif lies within the alpine and nival climate zones of the central Himalaya, characterized by steep temperature gradients with altitude and pronounced influences from the south. At base camp elevations around 4,800 m, average temperatures typically range from -20°C in winter to 10°C during summer months, with extreme lows below -30°C possible at higher altitudes due to . Seasonal patterns are dominated by the South Asian , which shapes and stability across the region. Winter ( to February) features heavy snowfall accumulation, providing favorable conditions for winter ascents with stable , though daytime temperatures rarely exceed 0°C. The period (June to September) brings intense rainfall and , often causing slope instability and limiting access, while spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer clearer skies and milder conditions ideal for exploration. The glaciers of Manaslu, primarily of the summer-accumulation type, are integral to the region's and have shown significant retreat amid rising temperatures. Key examples include the South Manaslu Glacier on the southern flank and the Manaslu Glacier (also called Punhyen Glacier) on the north, the latter feeding Birendra Lake at 3,691 m. Across the Manaslu region, glacier area has decreased by 78.5 km² (12.9%) from 1970 to 2019, at an average rate of 1.6 km² per year, with terminus retreats averaging 20-30 m annually for many outlets due to balances. Microclimates differ markedly between faces, influenced by and regional air flows. The northern face, in the rain shadow of the main Himalayan barrier, is drier with stronger katabatic winds descending from the , which can scour snow and aid route drying but increase exposure risks. In contrast, the southern face receives heavier precipitation, fostering thicker snow layers and slightly milder temperatures, though this heightens potential during wet seasons.

Major Peaks and Features

The Manaslu massif, dominated by its namesake peak rising to 8,163 meters, forms the core of the Mansiri Himal subrange in north-central . This summit, known for its steep, pyramidal shape, is flanked by prominent subsidiary ridges and glaciers that contribute to its dramatic profile. To the west lies Himalchuli, the second-highest peak in the massif at 7,893 meters, creating a formidable western barrier with its sharp, ice-covered faces. East of Manaslu stands Ngadi Chuli at 7,871 meters, a rugged summit that extends the eastern flank and connects to outliers of the adjacent range, including peaks like Paldor at 5,896 meters. These nearby peaks, along with Shringi Himal, enclose the central valley systems and enhance the massif's isolation. Key features include the Larkya La pass at 5,106 meters, a high col between the and the main Budhi Gandaki valley, offering access across the northern rim of the massif. The Tsum Valley to the north features deep gorges carved by the Siyar Khola river, with narrow, terraced canyons supporting remote settlements amid steep walls. Extensive moraines, such as those associated with the , form hummocky terrains and ice-cored in the upper valleys, remnants of past glacial advances. The Mansiri Himal spans approximately 60 kilometers east-west, bounded by the Marsyangdi River to the west, which isolates it from the massif, and extending toward the in the east. This compact extent concentrates high-relief topography within a relatively narrow corridor of the Greater Himalaya.

Ecology

Flora

The Manaslu region, encompassing the Manaslu Conservation Area in central , hosts a diverse array of vegetation zones influenced by its steep altitudinal gradient from subtropical lowlands to high alpine and nival belts. Below 2,000 meters, subtropical forests dominate, featuring broadleaf species such as oaks (Quercus spp.) and rhododendrons (), which thrive in the monsoon-fed humid conditions of the lower slopes. Between 3,000 and 4,500 meters, alpine meadows prevail, characterized by grasses like Kobresia nepalensis and a variety of herbs including primulas and potentillas, adapted to cooler temperatures and shorter growing seasons. Above 5,000 meters, the landscape becomes largely barren, with sparse snow-resistant shrubs such as dwarf rhododendrons (Rhododendron anthopogon) and junipers (Juniperus spp.) clinging to rocky outcrops in the nival zone near the snow line. The region's flora encompasses approximately 2,000 plant species across 11 forest types and 19 dominant vegetation forms, reflecting its position as a biodiversity hotspot in the Himalayas. Notable among these are endemic and medicinal plants, including the Himalayan poppy (Meconopsis manasluensis), a striking scarlet flower restricted to high-altitude meadows in the Manaslu area, and yarsagumba (Ophiocordyceps sinensis), a valued fungus-hosting herb found in alpine cushions above 4,000 meters. Over 50 species serve medicinal purposes for local communities, underscoring the ecological and cultural value of this diversity. Vegetation distribution is closely tied to altitude and seasonal patterns, with lower zones exhibiting monsoon-dependent growth cycles that support lush forests during the wet summer months, while higher elevations feature resilient shrubs and perennials capable of enduring heavy snowfall and frost. However, this faces significant threats from by livestock, which degrades alpine meadows and reduces regeneration, and , which is shifting treelines upward and altering patterns, potentially leading to loss for sensitive .

Fauna

The Manaslu region, encompassing diverse altitudes from subtropical forests to alpine meadows, supports 33 species of mammals, many of which play key roles as apex predators, herbivores, and prey in the ecosystem. Snow leopards (Panthera uncia), elusive apex predators, inhabit the high-altitude rocky terrains above 3,000 meters, preying primarily on blue sheep and Himalayan ibex to regulate herbivore populations. A 2024 camera-trap survey estimated approximately 15 snow leopards in the Manaslu Conservation Area, highlighting their low density of about 1.5 individuals per 100 km². Red pandas (Ailurus fulgens), arboreal herbivores dependent on bamboo understory for foraging, occupy mid-elevation temperate forests between 2,500 and 4,000 meters, contributing to seed dispersal and forest regeneration. Himalayan tahrs (Hemitragus jemlahicus), agile ungulates grazing on alpine grasses and shrubs, form herds in steep cliffs and meadows above 2,500 meters, serving as primary prey for carnivores like snow leopards. Musk deer (Moschus chrysogaster), solitary browsers feeding on lichens and leaves in dense undergrowth, inhabit forested slopes up to 3,500 meters, where males produce musk pods used in traditional scents, though populations remain unquantified due to their secretive nature. Avian diversity in Manaslu exceeds 110 , with adapting to varied habitats from river valleys to snowfields, facilitating , distribution, and control. The (Lophophorus impejanus), Nepal's national known for its iridescent plumage, forages on berries, , and in forests between 2,000 and 3,500 meters, often spotted in small groups during breeding seasons. Bearded vultures (Gypaetus barbatus), large with wingspans up to 2.8 meters, soar over high passes and cliffs above 4,000 meters, specializing in bone consumption to recycle nutrients in the . Reptiles and are confined to lower elevations below 3,000 meters due to the harsh alpine conditions, with only three reptile recorded, primarily in warmer, vegetated zones. The Himalayan (), a venomous serpent reaching lengths of up to 86 cm, ambushes small mammals and birds in rocky grasslands and forests from 1,500 to 4,900 meters, though sightings in Manaslu are rare and limited to mid-altitudes. , including 11 butterfly such as the spangled satyr, thrive in floral-rich meadows, aiding of . Many Manaslu exhibit seasonal migration patterns driven by altitude and food availability, with herbivores like Himalayan tahrs descending to lower valleys in winter for milder temperatures and emergent vegetation, while birds such as flycatchers and warblers migrate through the region in autumn, using it as a corridor between Himalayan ranges. Snow leopards track prey movements, shifting elevations from high ridges in summer to valleys in winter to follow blue sheep herds.

Human Aspects

Ethnic Groups and Culture

The Manaslu region is home to several indigenous ethnic groups, primarily the Nubri and Tsum in the upper valleys, who are ethnically Tibetan and practice as herders and valley dwellers, while the Gurung dominate the lower elevations as farmers, and the serve as transhumant pastoralists near the Tibetan border. These groups trace their origins to migrations from centuries ago, fostering a deeply intertwined with Himalayan Tibetan traditions. Cultural practices among the Nubri and Tsum include fraternal polyandry, a traditional marriage system where brothers share a wife to preserve family land and resources, though it is transitioning due to modern socio-economic influences. Mani walls—long stone structures inscribed with Buddhist mantras like "Om Mani Padme Hum"—dot the trails and villages, serving as sites for prayer and circumambulation to accumulate merit. Festivals such as Losar, the Tibetan New Year, are celebrated with traditional dances, feasts, and rituals that reinforce community bonds and Buddhist devotion. Livelihoods revolve around subsistence activities adapted to the high-altitude environment, including yak herding for milk, , and transport, barley and potato farming on terraced fields, and historical salt and wool trade across the border with . The population in the core Nubri and Tsum areas is estimated at around 5,000, with Nubri comprising approximately 2,500 residents and Tsum about 2,500; as of the 2011 census, Tsum had about 1,810 residents, while Nubri estimates range from 2,000 to 9,000 as of 2015, influenced by tourism and migration. They speak distinct such as Nubri, Tsumba, and related dialects that reflect their Tibetan linguistic heritage. The sacred status of Manaslu, revered as a in local lore, permeates these communities' spiritual worldview.

Settlements and Religious Sites

The Manaslu region is home to several key settlements that serve as cultural and logistical hubs for local communities, primarily inhabited by ethnic groups of Tibetan descent such as the Nubri and Tsumba people. Samagaun, located at approximately 3,530 meters in the Nubri Valley, stands as the largest and most central village, acting as a primary base for those in the upper Manaslu area with its cluster of stone houses, teahouses, and agricultural fields supporting and cultivation. Further down the Budhi , Jagat at 1,340 meters functions as an entry point to the region, featuring terraced fields and traditional Gurung-influenced architecture, while Deng, at 1,860 meters, represents a transitional settlement with its mix of lowland and highland influences, including bamboo groves and small monasteries. The Tsum Valley, a remote northern extension, remained a prohibited area for foreigners until , preserving its isolation and allowing villages like those in Tsum to maintain ancient Tibetan customs with minimal external influence. Religious sites dot the landscape, underscoring the region's deep Buddhist heritage tied to Tibetan traditions. Mu Gompa, situated in the upper Tsum Valley at around 3,700 meters, is one of the most isolated monasteries, established in 1936 by Drukpa as a meditation center housing a small community of monks; the adjacent Rachen Gompa, also founded in 1936, serves as a nunnery with around 36 nuns as of 2024. Near the Manaslu base camp area, Pungen Gompa (also known as Pungyen Gompa) at approximately 4,000 meters offers a serene vantage point with panoramic views of the peak, serving as a key site for and reflection amid its surrounding prayer flags and mani stones. Along the trails connecting these settlements, numerous chortens—stupas symbolizing —line the paths, particularly in villages like Samagaun and Samdo, where they mark sacred passages and encourage for merit accumulation. The architecture of these gompas and settlements is ingeniously adapted to the harsh high-altitude environment, featuring sturdy stone construction to withstand heavy snow and winds, often with flat roofs weighted by additional stones for stability. Interiors boast vibrant paintings—scroll-like artworks depicting deities and mandalas—painted on cloth and framed in ornate settings, alongside murals and gilded statues that illuminate Buddhist teachings. Historically, many of these sites, including settlements like Deng and Samagaun, originated as trade posts along ancient salt routes linking to , facilitating the exchange of salt, wool, and grains across the from at least the onward, which also spread Buddhist influences through passing traders and pilgrims.

Mountaineering

Early Exploration and Attempts

The first recorded Western exploration of Manaslu occurred in 1950, when British mountaineer H. W. Tilman led a small expedition through the region following an unsuccessful attempt on . Tilman's team, consisting of five members including scientists and a doctor, approached from the Marsyandi Valley and obtained the first photographs of the mountain, noting its imposing north and west faces but identifying no immediate viable climbing route due to the steep terrain and limited access. This expedition marked the initial foreign incursion into the area, as had only recently opened its borders to outsiders after centuries of isolation under the Rana regime, which had restricted entry to prevent foreign influence and protect strategic Himalayan frontiers near . Local beliefs further complicated early efforts, with residents of nearby Sama village viewing Manaslu as a sacred abode of spirits—its name deriving from the word "manasa," meaning intellect or spirit—leading to superstitions that climbing the peak would anger protective deities and bring calamity. These cultural taboos, rooted in Tibetan Buddhist traditions prevalent in the region, deterred outsiders and even prompted active resistance against expeditions perceived as profane. The mountain's mystical allure, often described in local lore as a dwelling of mountain spirits, reinforced this reluctance until diplomatic interventions by the Nepalese government helped mitigate tensions in later years. In 1952, the Japanese Alpine Club, sponsored by the Mainichi Press, dispatched a reconnaissance party led by Dr. Kinji Imanishi to assess potential routes. The team explored the west face, deeming it too sheer, before shifting to the north side via the Dudh Khola valley and reaching the Manaslu Glacier at approximately 17,400 feet (5,300 meters), where they established that the northeast ridge offered the most feasible approach but required further preparation. No summit attempt was made, as the focus remained on mapping access and logistics in the remote, logistically challenging terrain. The first serious climbing attempt followed in 1953, led by Y. Mita with a team of 15 Japanese climbers approaching from the Buri Gandaki Valley. They established a base camp at 12,600 feet (3,840 meters) and advanced camps up to 24,600 feet (7,500 meters) on the northeast ridge, with an assault party reaching 25,425 feet (7,750 meters)—about 1,230 feet (375 meters) below the summit—before turning back due to extreme exhaustion, high winds, and the absence of supplemental oxygen. This effort highlighted the mountain's technical difficulties and harsh weather, setting the stage for subsequent tries. A Japanese expedition under Y. Hotta faced immediate setbacks from local opposition, as Sama villagers blockaded the route citing the mountain's sanctity and fears of spiritual retribution, forcing the team to redirect to the nearby without attempting Manaslu. This incident underscored the cultural barriers to exploration, requiring negotiations with local authorities to proceed in future years. Preparations intensified in with a post-monsoon advance party led by Ohara, Hashimoto, and Murayama, who resolved ongoing disputes with Sama villagers through government mediation and scouted logistics for a full assault. The team's efforts focused on route confirmation and supply lines along the northeast face, reaching preparatory altitudes but halting short of a summit push to build on prior reconnaissance data. These efforts laid critical groundwork amid persistent weather and access challenges.

Key Ascents and Milestones

The of Manaslu was achieved on May 9, 1956, by Japanese climber Toshio Imanishi and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu via , marking a significant milestone in Himalayan as the fifth 8,000 m peak to be summited. Two days later, fellow expedition members Kiichiro Kato and Minoru Higeta made a second ascent of the peak via the same route. A landmark in women's occurred on May 4, 1974, when the first all-female team to summit an 8,000 m peak—a Japanese expedition led by Kyoko Sato—reached Manaslu's summit, with Naoko Nakaseko, Mieko Mori, and Masako Uchida comprising the summit party. The first winter ascent took place on January 12, 1984, accomplished by Polish climbers and Ryszard Gajewski without supplemental oxygen, via the normal northeast ridge route; this success came amid tragedy for their expedition, as several members perished in avalanches during the attempt. Notable achievements in the 1990s included the first American ascent by Charlie Mace in 1997, a solo effort via the standard northeast face route that completed his quest to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. By the , Manaslu had recorded around 100 successful ascents overall, though with approximately 20 fatalities, underscoring the peak's reputation for high risk due to its avalanche-prone slopes.

Recent Expeditions and Records

In the , Manaslu experienced a surge in commercial expeditions, transforming it from a relatively obscure 8,000er into a more popular objective for guided climbs, with teams increasingly utilizing fixed ropes and logistical support along the standard Northeast Ridge route. This period also marked a rise in oxygen-free ascents, as advancing techniques and climber experience encouraged more attempts without supplemental oxygen, though exact numbers remain limited due to varying records. A notable milestone came in 2011 when Indian mountaineer Arjun Vajpai, aged 18, became the youngest person to summit Manaslu on October 4, reaching the top at 10 a.m. via the standard route. The 2010s saw sustained growth in climbing activity, with over 200 successful summits recorded in peak seasons alone, reflecting Manaslu's growing appeal amid improved and commercial operations. In 2021, Qatari mountaineer Sheikha Asma Al Thani achieved a historic ascent on September 27, becoming the first Qatari woman—and first Arab woman—to summit without supplemental oxygen, raising the Qatari flag at the top. The 2020s brought both triumphs and tragedies to Manaslu expeditions. In 2022, American ski mountaineer summited on September 26 before triggering a small during her ski descent, leading to her death at age 49 as she was swept off a cliff. The following year, on January 6, 2023, Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon and six Nepali Sherpas completed a rare winter ascent—the first since 1984—without oxygen, reaching the summit at 9:30 a.m. after enduring extreme cold and high winds. By 2024, the mountain's total fatalities reached 90, underscoring its persistent dangers despite technological advances. In 2025, the Himalaya Summit Club expedition achieved a perfect 100% summit success rate on , with all five clients—Jordanian climber Ahamed Al-Sarayrah and four French nationals (Steven, Said, David, and Lea)—reaching the top between 8:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m., supported by a team of Nepali guides including Sujan Gurung. The autumn 2025 season overall produced over 600 summits across multiple teams, contributing to Manaslu's cumulative total of approximately 3,900 successful ascents by late 2025, with a fatality rate of around 2.3%—higher than Mount Everest's (no fatalities reported in the 2025 season).

Climbing Routes

The standard climbing route on Manaslu follows the northeast face, originally pioneered by a Japanese expedition in , and remains the most commonly used path for summit attempts due to its relatively straightforward and slopes compared to other faces. This route begins at base camp, established at approximately 4,800 meters near Sama Gaon in the Samdo Valley, which requires a 7- to 10-day approach trek from the trailhead at Arughat along the Budhi valley. From base camp, climbers ascend through a series of progressively higher camps: Camp 1 at around 5,700 meters on a plateau after navigating initial and ; Camp 2 at 6,400 meters amid crevassed ; Camp 3 at 6,800 meters below a rocky ; and Camp 4 at 7,450 meters on a steep leading to the push. The route features moderate slopes averaging 30-40 degrees in the lower sections, steepening to 50-55 degrees on and near the upper camps, with fixed ropes essential for securing the path against falls and wind exposure. Alternative routes offer greater technical challenges and are attempted far less frequently. The southwest face, first ascended via a variant of the south ridge by a Polish expedition in 1980 that reached high on the line before turning back, involves sustained mixed climbing on rock bands and walls up to 60 degrees, with loose rock and avalanche-prone gullies making it one of the more demanding options. The west face, rarely climbed due to its complexity, presents a of vertical , mixed terrain, and seracs requiring advanced skills and route-finding, with only a handful of successful ascents recorded since early explorations in the . Essential equipment for any route on Manaslu includes crampons, ice axes, and harnesses for navigation on the lower glaciers, where probing and roped travel are critical to avoid hidden gaps. Fixed ropes are deployed by expedition teams across steep sections from Camp 1 upward to facilitate ascents and descents, particularly on the 50-55 degree slopes above 6,000 meters. Supplemental oxygen is standard for most climbers above 7,000 meters to mitigate the effects of extreme altitude on the final push from Camp 4, typically using 4-5 liters per minute flow rates via masks connected to portable bottles.

Risks and Challenges

Natural Hazards

Manaslu's is particularly prone to due to unstable cornices and seracs that frequently collapse, posing significant risks to climbers on the standard northeast . These formations, exacerbated by the mountain's steep slopes and heavy , can trigger massive slides without warning, especially during periods of unstable weather. In September 2022, an originating between Camps 3 and 4 swept through the area near Camp 4 at approximately 7,300 meters, injuring 12 climbers, including several Sherpas, and highlighting the ongoing danger in this zone. Extreme weather conditions further compound the hazards on Manaslu, with sudden whiteouts, high winds reaching speeds of over 100 km/h, and extensive crevasse fields that challenge navigation and stability above 6,000 meters. These winds, often peaking in the upper sections of the route, can delay expeditions for days and increase the likelihood of falls into hidden crevasses concealed by bridges. Climatic factors such as rapid fluctuations and heavy snowfall contribute to these conditions, making precise timing essential for safe passage. Additional risks include during summer months, when rains loosen debris on lower slopes, and during rare winter ascents, where sub-zero temperatures and prolonged exposure amplify cold-related threats. To mitigate these dangers, climbers rely on careful route selection to bypass known paths and zones, alongside advanced using and on-site monitoring to predict high-risk windows.

Incident Statistics

As of November 2025, Mount Manaslu has recorded approximately 89 fatalities among climbers attempting its summits, out of over 3,500 successful ascents (exact figures vary by source), yielding a fatality rate of about 2.5%. account for the majority of these deaths, comprising roughly 50% of cases, followed by falls and exhaustion at about 30%, with other causes including and exposure making up the remainder; these patterns align with broader Himalayan mountaineering statistics where cause over half of fatalities. Manaslu ranks among the deadlier eight-thousanders, with a historical fatality ratio of approximately one death per 10 successful ascents, though recent data shows a lower rate of about 1:37 due to improved safety measures and more summits. Fatalities are distributed nearly evenly between seasons, with 46 deaths in spring and 42 in autumn out of the total recorded through , reflecting the mountain's consistent risks year-round despite autumn's popularity for its relatively stable weather. According to (updated June 2025), no fatalities on the main peak were reported in 2025. Notable clusters of deaths occurred in the during early exploratory expeditions following the , when multiple fatalities highlighted the peak's technical challenges and avalanche proneness. In 2022, a major avalanche near Camp 4 killed one climber and injured 12 others. Separately, on the same day, renowned ski mountaineer died after falling approximately 1,800 meters while descending the summit on skis. Overall trends show an increase in incidents correlated with the of Manaslu expeditions since the early , as higher numbers of climbers—often in large guided groups—have led to crowding on routes and heightened exposure to objective hazards like . In the Manaslu region (but not on the main peak), an on Panbari Himal in late October 2025 claimed two lives, including Italian climbers Stefano Farronato and Alessandro Caputo, underscoring ongoing regional risks.

Verification Controversies

Verification controversies surrounding Manaslu ascents stem primarily from the mountain's challenging topography, which features a broad, snow-covered plateau-like area leading to a fore-summit and a true summit separated by a precarious, corniced that poses significant risks to unroped climbers. This configuration has led to numerous false summit claims, where climbers stop at the fore-summit (approximately 8,125 meters) or the col before the ridge, mistaking it for the , especially in poor or heavy conditions that obscure the true pinnacle about 3-6 meters higher. Prior to the widespread adoption of GPS technology in the , verification relied heavily on subjective accounts, making disputes common; for instance, early ascents in the and 1980s, including several Japanese expeditions, described varying summit features—such as a rocky tower in the 1956 versus a snowy dome in later reports—fueling debates over whether those teams reached the actual top or a nearby high point. In 2016, analysis revealed that only 15 out of 175 claimed summits up to that point were confirmed as true summits, highlighting the scale of these historical inaccuracies. Modern verification methods have evolved to address these ambiguities, incorporating photographic evidence, GPS tracks, and detailed witness logs submitted to authoritative bodies like the Himalayan Database, which maintains expedition records and distinguishes between "main summit" successes (reaching the true top or within a few meters) and "fore-summit" claims. Independent experts, such as those at 8000ers.com, further scrutinize historical and contemporary claims by cross-referencing photos against topographic models, as demonstrated in a 2019 detailed analysis that clarified Manaslu's summit ridge and retroactively validated or invalidated dozens of ascents based on visual and positional data. GPS data, now standard in post-2000 expeditions, provides precise coordinates to confirm proximity to the true summit (8,163 meters), while witness corroboration from teammates or guides helps resolve discrepancies in logs; however, inconsistencies persist when teams fail to submit full documentation, leading to provisional acceptances by Nepalese authorities. Ethical concerns in Manaslu mountaineering often arise from commercial pressures that incentivize inflated success reports and underreporting of incidents to protect expedition operators' reputations and future bookings. For example, the rush to claim s amid large guided groups has led to accusations of teams turning around short of the true but logging it as a success to meet client expectations, particularly on the popular northeast ridge route where fixed ropes and crowds amplify the temptation to prioritize numbers over accuracy. Unreported deaths or turnarounds have also surfaced in critiques of commercial operations, as seen following the 2012 that killed 11 climbers, where some operators allegedly downplayed risks or continued pushes despite warnings to avoid financial losses from aborted trips. Recent cases underscore ongoing validation challenges, such as the January 6, 2023, winter ascent by Spanish climber Alex Txikon and a team of six , which was rigorously verified through GPS tracks and photos confirming the true summit without supplemental oxygen for Txikon himself, marking only the fourth confirmed winter ascent of Manaslu. Debates on oxygen use transparency continue, with critics arguing that inconsistent disclosure in team reports—where some members use it while others do not—complicates record authenticity and ethical assessments, as evidenced in post-expedition analyses questioning mixed-oxygen claims from 2021-2023 seasons. These issues have prompted calls for stricter pre-submission audits by bodies like to ensure transparency in an era of increasing commercialization.

Trekking and Tourism

The Manaslu Circuit is the primary trekking route around Mount Manaslu, forming a 177-kilometer loop that typically takes 14 to 18 days to complete, starting from Arughat or nearby Soti Khola and ending in Besisahar, while crossing the high Larkya La Pass at 5,106 meters. This path winds through the Manaslu Conservation Area, offering trekkers a remote Himalayan experience with gradual ascents through subtropical forests, alpine meadows, and glacial valleys. An optional extension to the Tsum Valley adds 7 to 10 days as a side trip from the main circuit, branching off near Philim and focusing on cultural immersion among Tibetan-influenced communities, ancient monasteries like Mu Gompa, and hidden valleys sacred to locals. This detour emphasizes spiritual sites and traditional lifestyles rather than high-altitude challenges, providing a contrast to the circuit's physical demands. Classified as a teahouse trek, the Manaslu Circuit involves staying in lodges along the route and requires a total elevation gain of approximately 40,000 feet, making it moderately strenuous for fit hikers with prior trekking experience. The optimal seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when stable enhances visibility and reduces risks from snow or monsoons. Key highlights include panoramic views of Mount Manaslu and its surrounding peaks from vantage points like Samagaon, as well as the crossing of Birendra Lake, a turquoise glacial tarn named after Nepal's late king, where trekkers navigate fields amid dramatic scenery. These elements combine natural splendor with cultural encounters, such as interactions with Gurung and Tibetan communities, underscoring the route's appeal for immersive adventure.

Permits and Logistics

Accessing the Manaslu region requires specific permits due to its status as a restricted area, regulated by the Department of Immigration to preserve the environment and cultural integrity. The primary permit is the Manaslu Restricted Area Permit (RAP), which costs USD 100 per person for the first week during the peak from to , with an additional USD 15 per day thereafter; off- rates (December to August) are USD 75 per week plus USD 10 per extra day. Additionally, the Manaslu Conservation Area Permit (MCAP) is mandatory at USD per person, regardless of or duration, to support conservation efforts in the area. The Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) is also required for the trek's final segment from approximately Dharapani to Besisahar, costing USD per person regardless of or duration. For trekkers extending to the Tsum Valley, an extra permit is required at USD 40 per week from to (USD 7 per additional day) or USD 30 per week off- (USD 5 per extra day). These permits must be obtained in through a licensed trekking agency, and solo trekking is prohibited—groups of at least two with a guide are required for approval. Logistics for reaching and navigating Manaslu begin with transportation from to Arughat, the traditional trailhead, via a 6-7 hour bus ride covering about 130 kilometers along the , though road conditions can vary with weather and landslides. From Arughat, the trek proceeds on foot, and hiring a licensed guide is mandatory for the restricted area to ensure safety, route compliance, and permit validity, while porters are highly recommended to carry gear up to 20 kg per person, costing around USD 22-25 per day. Accommodation options include teahouses—basic lodges offering shared rooms, meals, and hot drinks for USD 5-15 per night—or with tents for more flexibility in remote sections, though teahouses predominate along the main circuit for convenience and lower logistical demands. The optimal trekking seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when stable weather and clear views prevail, though the region imposes informal capacity controls through permit requirements and group mandates to prevent overcrowding and . Helicopter evacuations are a common contingency for medical emergencies like , facilitated by services from bases in nearby valleys, with costs often covered by up to USD 5,000-10,000 per rescue. Overall costs for a standard 12-16 day Manaslu trek range from USD 1,000 to 1,500 per person, encompassing permits, guide, accommodation, meals, and transport, varying by group size and inclusions.

Conservation and Development

Protected Areas

The Manaslu Conservation Area (MCA) spans 1,663 square kilometers in Nepal's Gorkha and Districts and was established on December 28, 1998, by the to preserve the region's unique Himalayan ecosystems. Managed by the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC) under an integrated conservation and development program, the MCA encompasses diverse habitats from subtropical forests at around 600 meters to alpine zones exceeding 8,000 meters, including the slopes of Mount Manaslu. This protected area supports a rich array of flora and fauna, such as snow leopards and Himalayan blue sheep, while integrating local community involvement in conservation efforts. The primary objectives of the MCA focus on biodiversity protection, particularly for endangered species like the snow leopard, through ecosystem preservation and community-based anti-poaching initiatives. NTNC's management emphasizes sustainable natural resource use to mitigate threats such as habitat loss and wildlife trafficking, while enhancing local capacities for environmentally responsible practices. These efforts align with broader goals of maintaining ecological balance in one of Nepal's key trans-Himalayan landscapes. Buffer zones within the MCA, including portions of the Tsum and Nubri valleys, allow for regulated sustainable resource utilization by local communities, such as controlled grazing and collection, to balance conservation with livelihoods. These zones extend the protected area's influence into adjacent human-inhabited areas, promoting that reduces pressure on core habitats. Key achievements include increased forest cover in high-altitude regions due to targeted conservation measures, contributing to reduced deforestation rates compared to surrounding unprotected areas. Additionally, NTNC-led wildlife monitoring programs, such as camera trap surveys in the Central Snow Leopard Landscape, have enhanced data collection on species populations and supported anti-poaching patrols involving local stakeholders. Recent initiatives as of 2025 include an agreement with NABU for fostering human-snow leopard coexistence and a Nepal-China snow leopard knowledge workshop in 2024, advancing protection for this endangered species.

Infrastructure Projects

The Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP), initiated in 1998 by the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC), has driven post-1990s development efforts in the Gorkha and Nubri regions through an integrated conservation and development approach, focusing on community infrastructure to support local livelihoods. Early initiatives under the 1997–2001 Manaslu Development Project established basic facilities, including field offices in Philim and Sirdibas, a liaison office in Gorkha Bazaar, and tourist check posts in Jagat and Samagaun, improving administrative access and monitoring. These efforts extended to enhancing education and health services, with NGOs like Community Action Nepal supporting the construction and upkeep of schools and health posts in remote Nubri villages to address historical neglect in healthcare and schooling. Road development has transformed accessibility, with construction reaching Soti Khola by the , shifting the Manaslu trek's starting point and facilitating easier transport of goods and services to isolated communities in Gorkha and Nubri. sustainability has been bolstered by eco-lodge promotions and trail maintenance, including NTNC-led work on approximately 25 km of trails with railings, signboards, and bridges at high-risk sites, helping to manage environmental impacts from over 10,000 annual trekkers as of while generating revenue for local . The Budhi Gandaki River holds significant potential, exemplified by the planned 1,200 MW Budhi Gandaki on the Gorkha-Dhading , which could provide electricity to remote areas and stimulate , with construction expected to begin in the fiscal year 2025/26 following recent cost revisions to USD 2.77 billion and ongoing financing efforts, though implementation has faced significant delays. The 2015 Gorkha earthquake severely damaged infrastructure in northern Gorkha and Nubri, prompting reconstruction of over 1,300 schools and 80 health facilities nationwide, including targeted efforts in Manaslu where local offices oversaw rebuilding six schools and health posts with earthquake-resistant designs. Challenges persist in balancing rapid growth—such as road expansion and influx—with conservation, as increased access raises risks of , resource strain, and human-wildlife conflicts in the fragile Himalayan ecosystem. In the , initiatives have included installations benefiting 658 households in the Manaslu area for reliable off-grid power, alongside homestay training programs for over 200 operators to promote and income for ethnic communities.

References

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