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Steptoe Butte
Steptoe Butte
Steptoe Butte
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Steptoe Butte is a quartzite island jutting out of the silty loess of the Palouse hills in Whitman County, Washington, in the northwest United States. The 3,612-foot (1,101 m) butte is preserved as Steptoe Butte State Park Heritage Site, a publicly owned 150-acre (61 ha) recreation area located 12 miles (19 km) north of Colfax.[2]

Key Information

Steptoe Butte and nearby Kamiak Butte comprise Steptoe and Kamiak Buttes National Natural Landmark. This 1,144-acre (463 ha) area, designated in 1965, includes land in state and county ownership.[3]

Geology

[edit]

The rock that forms the butte is over 400 million years old, in contrast with the 15–7 million year old Columbia River Basalts that underlie the rest of the Palouse. Steptoe Butte has become an archetype, as isolated protrusions of bedrock, such as summits of hills or mountains, in lava flows have come to be called "steptoes".[2] Steptoe and Kamiak Buttes are outliers of Idaho's Coeur d'Alene Mountains.[3]

  • Elevation: 3,612 feet (1,101 m) above sea level, approximately 1,000 feet (300 m) above the surrounding countryside (prominence).
  • Visibility: Up to 70–100 miles (110–160 km). Mount Spokane is easily visible, 70 miles (110 km) to the north.[4]

History

[edit]
Steptoe Butte circa 1910

The butte was named after Colonel Edward Steptoe.[2] A hotel built by James S. "Cashup" Davis stood atop the butte from 1888 to 1908, burning down in 1911.[5] In 1946, Virgil McCroskey donated 120 acres (49 ha) of land to form the park, which was later increased to over 150 acres (61 ha).[2] The east,south and west portions of the butte were purchased in 2016 by two couples Kent and Elaine Bassett, and Ray and Joan Folwell. The owners planned to protect their 437 acres (177 ha) of land from development, eventually donating it to the state.[6] This plan came to fruition when they sold the land to the Washington State Department of Natural Resources in December 2021.

Activities and amenities

[edit]

A narrow paved road winds around the butte, leading to a parking area at the summit. The park offers picnicking facilities and an interpretive wayside exhibit.[2] Popular activities include sight-seeing, paragliding, hang gliding, kite and model airplane flying, and photography.

[edit]
  • A paved road takes visitors to the top of the park
    A paved road takes visitors to the top of the park
  • Steptoe Butte's summit provides scenic views of the Palouse farmland, seen here in the late spring.
    Steptoe Butte's summit provides scenic views of the Palouse farmland, seen here in the late spring.
  • The butte's expansive views of the Palouse attracts photographers
    The butte's expansive views of the Palouse attracts photographers
  • Panoramic view on a spring evening
    Panoramic view on a spring evening
  • A hazy golden hour, looking west from the summit of the butte in May 2023
    A hazy golden hour, looking west from the summit of the butte in May 2023
  • Tourists and photographers park alongside the access road
    Tourists and photographers park alongside the access road

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Steptoe Butte

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Steptoe Butte is a 3,612-foot (1,101 m) monadnock in Whitman County, , rising prominently above the rolling hills and serving as a striking geological landmark in the region. Formed from ancient sedimentary rocks of the Belt Supergroup deposited approximately 1.4 billion years ago, the butte originated as a sandy beach deposit that was uplifted by tectonic forces and later isolated by Miocene-era basalt flows, making it the type locality for the term "steptoe"—a geological feature describing such resistant hills protruding through younger lava fields. The butte holds significant historical and cultural importance, known to of the region—including the Spokane Tribe, Nation, , Coeur d’Alene, and others—as Se-empteeta or E-omoshtoss, a key site in seasonal subsistence practices and traditional territories. In 1858, it was the site of the Battle of Tohotonimme, where Lt. Col. Edward Steptoe's U.S. Army forces suffered a defeat against allied Native warriors, leading to the butte's naming in his honor by 1872. Designated a in 1965, Steptoe Butte State Park Heritage Site encompasses 168 acres with a winding auto road to the summit, offering panoramic views up to 200 miles on clear days and interpretive exhibits on its and ; the park was established in 1946 through the efforts of conservationist McCroskey. Adjacent to the park, the 437-acre Steptoe Butte Natural Area Preserve, created in 2018 by the Washington Department of Natural Resources, protects the largest remaining remnant of the endangered prairie ecosystem, home to rare species such as the and federally threatened Spalding’s catchfly.

Geography

Location

Steptoe Butte is situated in , at coordinates 47°01′56″N 117°17′48″W. It lies approximately 12 miles north of Colfax and 28 miles north of Pullman. The butte forms a key feature within the region, an area defined by its distinctive rolling hills composed of deep soils that support extensive farming. Steptoe Butte stands as a prominent landmark in this landscape, rising sharply amid the otherwise gently undulating terrain of agricultural fields. It maintains proximity to the Palouse River on its eastern side and to Kamiak Butte approximately 10 miles to the northeast, together comprising the Steptoe and Kamiak Buttes , a encompassing 1,144 acres designated in 1965. As of November 2025, following a road improvement project, access to the butte is provided via State Route 195, from which a paved 3.7-mile road ascends the east side to the summit.

Physical Features

Steptoe Butte is a thimble-shaped monadnock rising to an of 3,612 feet (1,101 m) above , with a of 1,027 feet (313 m) above the surrounding hills, which average around 2,600 feet (790 m) in . The butte's isolated, steep profile creates a stark contrast to the gently rolling terrain of the surrounding landscape. The summit area encompasses approximately 168 acres (68 ha) within Steptoe Butte State Park Heritage Site, featuring steep, barren slopes that are largely exposed rock with sparse coverage of native bunchgrasses and seasonal wildflowers, such as those blooming from late through . This minimal vegetation stands in sharp relief against the fertile, loess-covered valleys and agricultural fields of the below, which support extensive production. From the summit, visibility can extend up to 200 miles (320 km) on clear days, offering panoramic vistas of the undulating countryside, with distant views including to the west and the to the east. The butte's designation as a underscores its prominent role in the regional topography. Due to the exposed quartzite surfaces and thin soils, vegetation remains limited, primarily consisting of drought-tolerant grasses and occasional wildflowers, which in turn support a modest array of wildlife, including red-tailed hawks, Northern Pacific rattlesnakes, and occasional .

Geology

Formation and Composition

Steptoe Butte is composed primarily of quartzite, a durable metamorphic rock derived from ancient sandstone deposits. These sandstones originated as sediments in a shallow sea along the western margin of the ancient North American continent during the Precambrian era, part of the Belt or Windermere Supergroup. Over time, the sediments were buried deeply, compacted into sandstone, and subjected to intense heat and pressure, transforming them into quartzite through metamorphism. This process occurred hundreds of millions to over a billion years ago, making the quartzite one of the oldest exposed rock types in Washington State. The butte's emergence is tied to prolonged tectonic activity and erosion along the continental margin. Sedimentary layers were folded and deformed by compressional forces from , contributing to regional uplift that elevated the rocks. As part of a larger mountain-building episode, these rocks formed an outlier of the ancestral , resisting subsequent geological changes. Approximately 17 to 6 million years ago, during the epoch, massive flood basalts of the inundated the landscape, burying the quartzite under thousands of feet of lava flows. Through millions of years of differential erosion, the softer surrounding basalts and other materials wore away, leaving the more resistant caprock standing as an isolated erosional remnant, or monadnock. This process created the butte's prominent, steep-sided form amid the region's rolling terrain. In the Pleistocene epoch, cataclysmic floods from glacial outburst events deposited thick layers of and around the base, which later winds redistributed as , blanketing the area in fertile soil up to several hundred feet deep while sparing the elevated summit.

Geological Significance

Steptoe Butte was designated as part of the Steptoe and Kamiak Buttes in 1965 by the , acknowledging its exceptional value as one of the oldest exposed rock formations in the . This recognition highlights the butte's role as an isolated outlier of ancient sedimentary rocks amidst the expansive Columbia River Basalts, preserving a window into pre-volcanic landscapes. The landmark spans 1,144 acres across state and county lands in , emphasizing its contribution to national efforts in geological preservation. The exemplifies a rare pre-Cretaceous formation in a region otherwise blanketed by younger volcanic basalts, providing critical insights into ancient geology and long-term dynamics across the . Composed primarily of metamorphosed over 400 million years old—formed from ancient coastal sediments—these resistant rocks resisted burial and , allowing geologists to study tectonic uplift and differential patterns that shaped the . This contrast aids in reconstructing the region's pre-basalt history. Steptoe Butte also plays a key role in elucidating Ice Age processes in the region, where thick deposits of wind-blown —silt derived from glacial outburst floods like the —accumulated around its base, burying the surrounding landscape while leaving the butte exposed. These Pleistocene loess layers, up to hundreds of feet thick in places, originated from sediments scoured by cataclysmic floods from , which were then redistributed by winds to form the fertile soils. The butte's prominence facilitates analysis of deposition patterns, , and post-glacial environmental changes. Such studies could reveal details about prehistoric ecosystems along North America's western margin, complementing broader investigations into the Belt Supergroup and related formations.

History

Indigenous History

Steptoe Butte, known as Eomoshtoss or Yu-mos-tos to the and Palouse peoples, served as a prominent landmark within the traditional territories of Sahaptin-speaking groups, including the , Palouse, and allied tribes such as the Spokane and Coeur d'Alene. These Indigenous communities utilized the butte and its surrounding Palouse landscape for seasonal subsistence activities, including hunting game, fishing in nearby streams, and gathering resources like camas roots, which were a staple food processed into cakes for storage and trade. The butte's elevated position also provided a strategic vantage point for monitoring the expansive Columbia Plateau, facilitating navigation along traditional trade routes that connected tribal groups across the region for exchanging goods such as roots, dried fish, and hides. Revered as a sacred site, Steptoe Butte—called Yamustas, or "Elk's Abode," by the —held deep spiritual significance, believed to be the dwelling of mythical figures like the and imbued with power for connecting with ancestors and the natural world. Tribes conducted vision quests and spirit ceremonies at its summit, seeking guidance, healing, and revelations through isolation and fasting, practices central to Plateau Indigenous cosmology that emphasized harmony with the land. Oral traditions linked the butte to creation stories, portraying it as a place of enduring ancestral ties and ritual importance for maintaining cultural and spiritual balance. The butte's prominence played a role in 19th-century conflicts, overlooking the nearby Battle of Tohotonimme (also known as the Battle of Pine Creek) in 1858, where allied , Yakama, Spokane, and Coeur d'Alene warriors decisively defeated U.S. Army forces led by Colonel Edward Steptoe, who had entered tribal lands without permission. This victory, viewed from the butte's heights, temporarily halted American encroachment but escalated tensions, prompting retaliatory campaigns that enforced the 1855 Walla Walla Treaty and led to further land cessions, reservations, and profound losses of traditional territories for these tribes.

European American History

The arrival of in the region intensified following the mid-19th-century conflicts between the U.S. military and Indigenous tribes. Steptoe Butte, initially known to early explorers as Pyramid Peak for its distinctive shape, was named after Lieutenant Colonel Steptoe following his defeat in the nearby Battle of Tohotonimme (also called the Battle of Pine Creek or Steptoe Disaster) on May 17, 1858, with the name officially adopted by government surveyors by 1872. This clash, part of the Spokane-Coeur d'Alene War, involved Steptoe's 165 soldiers and scouts ambushed by approximately 1,000 warriors from allied , Coeur d'Alene, Spokane, and tribes led by Chief Kamiakin, resulting in nine U.S. deaths and a forced retreat under cover of night. The defeat heightened regional tensions within the broader Plateau Indian Wars, prompting retaliatory campaigns by Colonel George Wright later that year, which forced land cessions and facilitated increased white encroachment. Settlement accelerated after treaties ceded Indigenous lands to the , beginning with the 1855 Walla Walla Treaty (ratified in 1859) that opened vast territories in present-day Washington and to non-Native use, followed by the 1863 and 1868 treaties amid gold rushes and squatting by prospectors. By the 1870s, white farmers and homesteaders poured into the fertile Hills, drawn by the deep soils ideal for cultivation, with federal acts like the Homestead Act of 1862 enabling claims on up to 160 acres per settler. Steptoe Butte emerged as a vital navigational amid the undulating terrain, aiding homesteaders in surveying and orienting expansive wheat fields across the 4,000-square-mile region spanning and northern . Its elevated position, rising 1,000 feet above the surrounding hills, provided panoramic views that helped early settlers map boundaries and locate claims during the rapid transformation of the area into a wheat-producing powerhouse. In 1888, entrepreneur James S. "Cashup" Davis, a former stagecoach operator who had established a roadside station at the butte's base in 1875, constructed a two-story hotel at the summit to capitalize on growing tourism and the site's scenic allure. Costing $10,000, the 66-by-66-foot structure featured a large assembly hall, multiple bedrooms, a dining room, and an observatory equipped with a telescope for viewing the expansive Palouse landscape, attracting visitors via horse-drawn wagons and early railroads. The hotel operated into the early 1900s, hosting tourists eager for the butte's vistas, though it proved financially unviable after just a few years of peak activity and closed following Davis's death in 1896. Abandoned by 1908, the building burned to the ground on March 11, 1911, in a fire likely started by teenagers smoking inside the ruins, leaving stone foundations that today evoke the era's nascent tourism efforts. Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Steptoe Butte played a central role in fostering regional community ties among . Its prominence and accessibility made it a natural site for gatherings, with the hotel serving as a hub for social events including dances, stage plays, concerts, and Fourth of July celebrations that drew farmers and families from towns like Colfax, Oakesdale, , and , as well as travelers from Spokane Falls. Davis, known for his hospitality, often entertained crowds with banquets and performances, reinforcing the butte's status as a symbol of identity and prosperity amid the boom. Due to its commanding elevation, the butte also functioned informally as a signal station for detecting wildfires in the dry summer fields, with relying on its visibility for early warnings that protected emerging farmlands.

Establishment as a State Park

Steptoe Butte State Park was established in 1946 through a donation of 168 acres by conservationist Virgil T. McCroskey to the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission, aimed at preventing commercial development and preserving the site's natural and historical features. The park, the 72nd in Washington's state system, was dedicated on July 4, 1946, following McCroskey's earlier acquisition of the land in 1945 to safeguard it from exploitation. In 1965, Steptoe Butte was designated a by the , recognizing its outstanding geological value as an isolated rising from the surrounding flows of the . This status highlighted the site's role in illustrating volcanic and tectonic processes, drawing attention to its scientific importance beyond recreational use. During the 2000s, the park was reclassified as Steptoe Butte State Park Heritage Site, shifting emphasis toward interpretive programs that educate visitors on its cultural, historical, and geological significance rather than intensive development. This designation aligned with broader Washington State Parks initiatives to prioritize heritage preservation and public understanding of natural landmarks. Efforts to expand protection continued into the ; in 2016, two conservation-minded couples—Kent and Elaine Bassett from Bellevue and Ray and Joan Folwell from Pullman—purchased 437 adjacent acres at auction to shield them from potential development and agricultural encroachment. The Washington Department of Natural Resources acquired this 437-acre parcel in 2018, establishing the Steptoe Butte Natural Area Preserve and expanding the total protected area to over 600 acres while buffering the against surrounding prairie conversion. Additional adjacent lands were purchased in 2021 to further expand protection. The addition protects rare plant communities and enhances ecological connectivity around the . In 2025, the park underwent a major road repaving project to address safety concerns on the steep, winding access road, resulting in a closure from spring 2025 through at least December 28, 2025, due to the repaving project and weather-related delays; the park is anticipated to reopen on December 29, 2025, weather permitting (as of November 2025). This work underscores ongoing maintenance challenges posed by the butte's rugged terrain and high visitor traffic, ensuring long-term accessibility while minimizing environmental impact.

Steptoe Butte State Park

Facilities and Access

Steptoe Butte features a paved road approximately 4.1 miles long that winds up the via a series of switchbacks, providing vehicular access to the top for standard passenger cars, though the route is narrow with no guardrails in places. The road is open seasonally from spring through fall, weather permitting, but is not maintained during winter and closes due to snow accumulation, limiting access to foot or non-motorized travel when conditions allow. In 2025, a major repaving project rebuilt the entire road with new asphalt surfacing, added shoulders, and lined culverts to improve durability against and enhance overall safety and visitor experience; as of November 2025, the project remains ongoing with an anticipated full reopening by late December, subject to weather. At the summit, visitors find a parking area with accessible spaces, a area equipped with seven unsheltered tables and four braziers, two ADA-compliant vault restrooms, and interpretive kiosks providing information on the area's , , and cultural significance, including details on the historic Cashup Hotel and surrounding mountain ranges. A small observation platform offers panoramic views extending up to 200 miles on clear days, though surrounding summit paths are unpaved and steep, posing challenges for mobility-impaired individuals despite the ADA-accessible and restroom facilities at the site. The park operates as day-use only, with no overnight camping, cabins, or lodging available. Entry to the park requires a Discover Pass, which costs $10 for a daily pass or $45 for an annual pass as of October 2025, purchasable online or at the automated pay station near the summit parking; the pass covers access for one vehicle and supports maintenance of state-managed recreation lands. While the base of the remains accessible year-round via footpaths, vehicular summit access is restricted during winter closures and the 2025 improvement project.

Activities and Recreation

Steptoe Butte serves as a premier destination for low-impact , drawing visitors primarily for its unparalleled scenic vistas and opportunities for aerial and observational activities. The park's 4.1-mile paved road allows for a gentle drive to the summit, where a 360-degree spans up to 200 miles across the farmlands, visible into and on clear days, making it a favored spot for enthusiasts capturing the rolling fields, especially during sunrise and sunset when the landscape glows in golden hues. At the , short interpretive paths offer walks amid outcrops, providing close-up views of the butte's while emphasizing the park's commitment to preserving its fragile environment through restrictions on high-impact uses. and walking paths are limited to this summit area due to surrounding private lands, with no extensive network available, but the elevated position supports for raptors such as golden eagles and falcons that soar over the open terrain. Picnicking is accommodated at the summit with seven unsheltered tables and four barbecue grills, allowing visitors to relax amid the expansive scenery. Aerial sports add an adventurous dimension, with hang gliding and paragliding permitted from designated launch sites for experienced participants who must complete annual registration through Washington State Parks; hang gliding is exclusive to Steptoe Butte among state parks. Kite flying and model airplane operations are allowed in wind-favorable summit areas, enhancing the site's appeal for casual recreational flying without requiring formal permits beyond the standard Discover Pass for vehicle access. These activities align with the park's day-use designation, prohibiting camping and fires to minimize environmental disturbance. Seasonally, visitation peaks in summer when wildflower blooms carpet the lower slopes from late through , complementing the green fields and drawing photographers and observers, though the is not maintained in winter, limiting access to non-motorized options on foot or bike during milder conditions. A 2025 closure for repaving and washout repairs, extending into late fall, temporarily disrupted these seasonal pursuits, with reopening anticipated by December to restore full recreational access. The park's as a sacred site for underscores a respectful approach to modern recreation, focusing on and minimal intrusion.

References

  1. https://dnr.wa.gov/natural-areas/natural-area-preserves/steptoe-butte-natural-area-preserve
  2. https://wa100.dnr.wa.gov/columbia-basin/steptoe-butte
  3. https://parks.wa.gov/about/news-center/field-guide-blog/steptoe-butte-state-park-heritage-site-history
  4. https://www.topozone.com/washington/whitman-wa/summit/steptoe-butte/
  5. https://parks.wa.gov/find-parks/state-parks/steptoe-butte-state-park-heritage-site
  6. http://www.sevenwondersofwashingtonstate.com/the-palouse.html
  7. https://www.nps.gov/subjects/nnlandmarks/site.htm?Site=stka-wa
  8. https://explorewashingtonstate.com/state-parks/steptoe-butte-state-park-heritage-site/
  9. https://dailyevergreen.com/135229/news/wildlife-of-the-week-the-northern-pacific-rattlesnake/
  10. https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/steptoe-butte-state-park-heritage-site
  11. https://www.dnr.wa.gov/Publications/ger_ic90_roadside_floodbasalts_glacierfloods.pdf
  12. https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/geology/publications/inf/72-2/sec1.htm
  13. https://wa100.dnr.wa.gov/columbia-basin/loess
  14. https://dnr.wa.gov/sites/default/files/2025-09/amp_na_steptoe_butte_plan.pdf
  15. https://www.palouseheritage.com/blog/2016/11/30/land-and-first-peoples
  16. https://www.historylink.org/File/8123
  17. https://parks.wa.gov/about/news-center/field-guide-blog/steptoe-battlefield-state-park-heritage-site-history
  18. https://www.historylink.org/File/7279
  19. https://libguides.libraries.wsu.edu/c.php?g=1000443&p=7898452
  20. https://www.spokesman.com/stories/2006/mar/26/steptoe-butte-peaked-in-1890s/
  21. https://www.spokesman.com/then-and-now/2012/aug/27/cashup-davis-hotel-steptoe-butte/
  22. https://www.seattletimes.com/pacific-nw-magazine/with-his-lavish-hotel-atop-steptoe-butte-celebrity-homesteader-cashup-davis-elevated-the-palouse-experience/
  23. https://www.historylink.org/File/7989
  24. https://www.union-bulletin.com/lifestyles/history-vistas-intertwined/article_9619e9a0-4045-11e9-9c1b-573c548198df.html
  25. https://www.spokesman.com/stories/2016/oct/11/bellevue-doctor-and-his-wife-buy-land-surrounding-/
  26. https://www.heraldnet.com/northwest/state-buys-more-steptoe-butte-land-to-preserve-it/
  27. https://www.spokesman.com/stories/2018/jun/15/dnr-to-acquire-acres-of-palouse-prairie/
  28. https://www.wcgazette.com/story/2021/12/23/news/steptoe-butte-sections-sold/36568.html
  29. https://www.dailyfly.com/2025/10/22/reopening-of-steptoe-butte-state-park-might-push-out-to-november/
  30. https://www.dailyfly.com/2025/09/19/steptoe-butte-state-park-north-of-colfax-set-to-reopen-sometime-in-late-october/
  31. https://omwbe.wa.gov/bid-opportunities/ew-c6528-road-improvements-steptoe-butte-heritage-site-state-park
  32. https://www.dangerousroads.org/north-america/usa/4018-steptoe-butte.html
  33. https://parks.wa.gov/passes-permits/get-park-pass/discover-pass
  34. https://komonews.com/news/local/cost-of-discover-pass-for-washington-state-park-public-lands-access-increases-by-50-percent-recreation-legislature
  35. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g58409-d3514200-Reviews-Steptoe_Butte_State_Park-Colfax_Washington.html
  36. https://www.onlyinyourstate.com/nature/washington/watch-the-sunset-at-steptoe-butte-a-unique-natural-monument-in-washington
  37. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/washington/steptoe-butte
  38. https://parks.wa.gov/find-activity/activity-search/paragliding-and-hang-gliding
  39. https://parks.wa.gov/sites/default/files/2023-08/paragliding-hanggliding_brochure_10-2020_web_0.pdf
  40. https://nwwildflowers.com/places/Steptoe_Butte
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