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Terlig
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Terlig

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Terlig

Terlig, also known as tieli (simplified Chinese: 帖裡; traditional Chinese: 貼裏; pinyin: tiēlǐ), bianxianao (辫线袄; 辮線襖; biànxiànǎo; 'coat with plaited line') or Yaoxianao[zi] (腰线袄[子]; 腰線襖[子]; yāoxiànǎo[zi]; 'coat with waist line') in Chinese, or commonly referred as Mongol dress or plait-line robe, is an archetypal type of Mongol clothing for men.

The terlig was initially developed to accommodate the equestrian and nomadic lifestyle of the Mongols, and to protect their bodies from the cold temperature of steppe regions. It was sometimes decorated with cloud collar (雲肩; yunjian; 'cloud-shoulder') pattern which decorated around the robe's collar, chest, and shoulders area. As the terlig gained symbolic meaning with time and as it spread into different regions, its shape and design evolved. Hybrid forms of the terlig was developed as it came in contact with other local cultures. The terlig was worn in China, Central Asia, Korea, the Mughal Empire in India, and in medieval Egypt, Turkey, Persia, and other parts of West Asia. It is still worn as Mongol ethnic clothing in some regions.

The origins of the term terlig are debatable. It may have come from the Turkic word tärlik.

The terlig is of Mongol origins. According to a paper published in 2003, no terlig were found in Han Chinese nationalities and in other nationalities in Northern China prior to the establishment of the Yuan dynasty. Originally, the Mongol terlig was a type of long, knee-length coat with a front-opening coat with voluminous folds along the waistline and side vents at the side to provide ease of movement; it also has long and tight sleeves, tight-fitting bodice, a wide waistband and the coat is fastened at the side. It was made with animal hides.

In modern times, the term terlig is still used to describe Mongolian ethnic clothing. The Buryats wear a coat called tyrlyk which can refer to a coat which can come with or without folds at the waist.

In the Yuan dynasty, the terlig was known as yaoxianao[zi] (腰线袄[子]; 腰線襖子) or bianxianao (辫线袄; 辮線襖) in Chinese literature; it was a popular style of coat and was a very important form of clothing. The terlig became more established and symbolized the attire of people of higher social status. It was worn by people of all social classes; status markers became the fabric quality. The jisün clothing was itself a variation of the terlig.

The terlig in the Yuan dynasty was especially characterized by the presence of numerous narrow and dense folds (or pleats) at waist and by the presence of "waist-thread" decoration on the waistband wherein people would use red and silk threads to fasten the coat on their waist. These two features were the biggest advantages of the coat which made it suitable for riding horses. The waistband was large and typically 15 cm in width. The robe was also calf-length, had long narrow sleeves, and had a cinched waist which was created by the waist-thread; it also had a side closure which was fastened at the right side with ties. The collar could either be cross-collared or round-collared. It could be decorated with flowers and could come in various colours. From the early to later periods of the Yuan dynasty, the basic form of terlig remained relatively unchanged, although some variations of the ribbon (i.e. ribboned vs braided waist) most likely coexisted together.

Some Mongol clothing from the Yuan dynasty was continued in the Ming dynasty despite the repeated prohibition of Mongol-style clothing, especially during the reign of the Hongwu Emperor. The jisün, a type of Yuan dynasty terlig, continued to be worn in Ming dynasty, where it was known as zhisun robe.

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