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Maillot
Maillot
from Wikipedia

Historical advertisement for a maillot from 1916 (far right).

The maillot (UK: /mʌɪˈəʊ/; US: /mˈ, mˈj/[1]) is the fashion designer's name for a woman's one-piece swimsuit, also called a tank suit. A maillot swimsuit generally consists of a tank-style torso top with high-cut legs. However, a maillot may also include a plunging neckline, turtleneck-style top, or revealing cutouts.[1]

In addition to describing women's one-piece swimsuits, the word maillot has also been used to refer to tights or leotards made of stretchable, jersey fabric, generally used for dance or gymnastics. The term maillot was first used to describe tight-fitting, one-piece swimsuits in the 1920s, as these swimsuits had been manufactured from a similar stretchable, jersey fabric.[1]

Modern usage

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Young woman in a maillot (one-piece) swimsuit in Germany, 1950

In the present day, the phrase "one-piece swimsuit" has almost completely replaced the term "maillot" in colloquial language. While the word has now become somewhat obsolete in common language, fashion designers and consumers used it quite often in the early days of the modern swimsuit. It is now most often used to distinguish between several different types of one-piece swimsuits, including the tank maillot and the pretzel maillot. The term is also used in bicycle racing. For example, the leader of the Tour de France wears the maillot jaune, referring to the yellow jersey that the overall race leader is awarded after each leg of the race.

Etymology

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The term maillot was inducted into the[specify] English dictionary in 1928; it derived from the French phrase for swaddling clothes. In the French language, the word maillot means "shirt" and is used to distinguish leaders in the Tour de France. The modern French term for a swimsuit, maillot de bain, also makes use of the word.

The name "tanksuit" or "tank suit" (as well as "tank top") alludes to the "tank" or pool in which the wearer swims.[2]

In colloquial Persian and Arabic, particularly in the Levant region, the term maillot (مايوه) is a generic term used to refer to a swimsuit for both men and women.

See also

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References

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
A maillot is a close-fitting garment originating from French terminology, most notably referring to tights or a leotard-style bodysuit worn by dancers, gymnasts, and acrobats to allow during performance. It also commonly denotes a woman's , typically featuring a tank-style top with high-cut legs, scoop neckline, and shoulder straps. Additionally, the term can describe a knitted or pullover shirt, often used in sports contexts. The word "maillot" derives from the French term for clothes, stemming from mailloel (13th century), an alteration of maille meaning "," ultimately tracing back to Latin macula (spot or in a net). In English, the sense referring to for dancers or gymnasts first appeared in 1876, while the swimsuit meaning emerged around 1928. In the realm of dance and gymnastics, the maillot originated in the mid-19th century when French acrobat invented a skin-tight, one-piece garment for trapeze work to highlight the physique and ensure unrestricted motion; this design, initially called a maillot, was later renamed the in his honor after his death in 1870. It gained prominence among male circus performers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries before evolving into versatile exercise wear by the , with advancements in materials like in the 1980s enhancing its elasticity and use in , , and . For swimwear, the maillot developed in the early 20th century from Victorian-era bathing costumes, becoming a practical, form-fitting one-piece suit favored on both sides of the Atlantic by the 1910s and 1920s. Brands such as Jantzen and Speedo popularized knitted maillots during this period, though the fabric's tendency to sag when wet posed challenges for modesty and fit in the interwar years. In the 1930s, designers like Coco Chanel refined the style with innovative textiles such as boucle, transforming the maillot from functional attire into a fashionable staple that influenced modern swimwear designs.

Definition and Origins

Definition

A maillot is a close-fitting garment originating from French terminology, referring to or a leotard-style worn by dancers and gymnasts, a woman's , or a knitted or pullover often used in sports such as . It is typically made from knitted or stretchy fabrics, with historical versions using or and modern ones incorporating or blends for elasticity. In its leotard and forms, a maillot often features a tank-style top with shoulder straps, high-cut leg openings for mobility, and variations such as scoop or plunging necklines. The garment's construction emphasizes a smooth, body-hugging fit that allows freedom of movement, suitable for activities like dancing, , or . Unlike two-piece swimsuits such as bikinis, one-piece maillots provide continuous coverage from shoulders to hips or thighs. Sports maillots, like cycling jerseys, differ from looser team sport uniforms by their performance-oriented design, though styles vary.

Etymology

The term "maillot" originates from mailloel or maillol, attested as early as 1278, denoting a piece of cloth used for wrapping newborns, akin to bands. This form is a derived from maille, meaning "" or "knit," which itself stems from Latin macula, originally signifying a "spot" or "blemish" but extended to describe the gaps in a net or interlaced fabric. In 19th-century , the word underwent semantic broadening, initially around the 1820s referring to knitted undergarments or small shirts, before evolving by 1841 to encompass tight-fitting garments suitable for and . This shift reflected the garment's transition from wrapping to form-fitting attire, emphasizing its knitted, -like construction. By the late 1800s, "maillot" had specialized further in athletic contexts, marking a departure from its earlier of "small mesh" to a term for elastic, body-conforming . The word shares roots with "mailles," as in cotte de mailles (), denoting protective mesh used in historical and armor, highlighting the shared heritage of interlaced materials. Its adoption into English occurred in the late , with the first recorded use in for tights worn by dancers or gymnasts, and it entered lexicon in the early via French influences.

Historical Development

Early Uses in Ballet and Gymnastics

The maillot, a form-fitting knitted garment designed for ease of movement, is often attributed to a at the Paris Opéra known as Maillot (d. 1838), who introduced flesh-colored tights in the 1830s to replace bulkier undergarments and support dancers' technical demands, building on earlier uses by dancers in the 1780s and 1790s. This innovation aligned with the Romantic era's emphasis on ethereal, fluid performances, allowing dancers to execute pointe work and intricate steps without restriction. Choreographers like Jules Perrot, active at the Opéra from 1830 to 1835, integrated such attire into productions to prioritize agility and expression, partnering with leading ballerinas to refine costume functionality. A seminal example occurred in 1832 with Marie Taglioni's premiere of , choreographed by her father Filippo Taglioni, where she wore an adapted maillot in the form of flesh-colored beneath her bell-shaped romantic tutu to simulate bare legs and enhance the sylph-like illusion central to the ballet's supernatural theme. These , often in a pale pink hue, became a hallmark of costuming, enabling the visual effect of weightless, diaphanous figures while concealing the physical reality of supportive ; they laid the groundwork for the one-piece maillot later popularized by . In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, form-fitting garments like maillots were adopted in European gymnasiums for women's physical training, reflecting broader reforms in women's education that promoted for health and posture improvement across institutions in , , and Britain. The (FIG), founded in 1881, oversaw the growth of the sport, with women's gaining international recognition by the 1920s. Early maillots were typically constructed from knit for its natural elasticity and durability, providing a snug fit suitable for repetitive motion in both and . By 1900, materials evolved to include blends, offering enhanced breathability and lighter weight while maintaining stretch, which better accommodated the increasing intensity of training and performances.

Emergence in Swimwear and Sports

The maillot transitioned into swimwear in the early , evolving from its earlier associations with movement-focused designs in and to more practical aquatic attire. In 1907, Australian swimmer was arrested for indecency on in after wearing a that exposed her legs, challenging prevailing norms of modesty and highlighting the garment's potential for functional over restrictive bathing costumes. This incident underscored the maillot's role as a precursor to modern swimwear, prioritizing mobility and form-fitting coverage. By the 1920s, the maillot gained prominence in swimwear through innovations on the , where designers adapted sleek, one-piece styles as alternatives to bulkier woolen suits. popularized these jersey-knit maillots by drawing from influences, introducing them in fashion shows that emphasized sunbathing and athleticism, such as those in and . The designs, often sleeveless and knee-length, reflected a shift toward revealing yet modest beachwear, aligning with the era's culture and the rejection of corsets for greater bodily freedom. This expansion intertwined with broader societal changes, particularly women's liberation movements, which advocated for physical activity and equality through practical clothing. Maillots enabled competitive swimming by allowing unrestricted movement, contributing to women's increased participation in sports amid the era's push for autonomy. In athletics, the term "maillot" also entered nomenclature with the debut of the maillot jaune—the yellow leader's jersey—in the , awarded to Eugène Christophe to signify the general classification leader. By the 1930s, one-piece maillots had become standard in Olympic swimming events, supporting women's events and further embedding the garment in competitive aquatic sports.

Types and Variations

Swimwear Maillots

Swimwear maillots are characterized by their sleek, one-piece construction, with high-leg cuts that elongate the and accentuate the legs for a streamlined appearance. These designs often include supportive built-in bras to provide bust support and enhance comfort during water activities. Additionally, modern maillots frequently incorporate UV-protective fabrics, offering up to UPF 50+ sun protection to prevent skin damage while maintaining form-fitting stretch. Variations in maillot styles expanded in the mid-20th century, with brands like introducing halter-neck and backless options in the to promote strapless tanning and greater freedom of movement. These adaptations, including and V-plunge necklines, allowed for diverse aesthetics while preserving the maillot's core full-coverage profile. The market for swimwear maillots evolved significantly after the , when bikinis gained prominence and temporarily overshadowed one-piece styles. A resurgence occurred in the , fueled by demand for full-coverage appeal that balanced modesty with contemporary , as seen in high-cut leg designs inspired by athletic trends. By the , one-piece maillots commanded about 45% of the women's swimwear as of 2024, reflecting their enduring popularity for versatile, body-positive options. Functionally, maillots prioritize performance through advanced materials like Lycra, a fiber patented in by . This durability extends garment lifespan by resisting chlorine degradation and maintaining elasticity over repeated use, with properties including water resistance and quick-drying capabilities, making maillots suitable for both recreational and competitive sports.

Cycling and Sports Maillots

In cycling, maillots are performance-oriented jerseys designed for speed and comfort, typically featuring short sleeves, breathable fabrics, and three rear pockets for storing essentials like energy gels or tools during rides. These elements allow riders to maintain while ensuring practicality on long distances. The most iconic example is the maillot jaune, the yellow jersey awarded to the overall leader of the , first introduced in 1919 and worn by Eugène Christophe after stage 10. This garment symbolizes leadership and prestige, evolving from a simple marker to a coveted prize in professional racing. Originally crafted from for its natural breathability and durability, cycling maillots shifted to synthetic materials like , , and Lycra starting in the 1960s and 1970s, with widespread adoption by the 1980s to enhance and . Modern designs incorporate moisture-wicking fabrics that draw sweat away from the skin to regulate , alongside aerodynamic seams—such as bonded or laser-cut edges—that minimize drag and fluttering at high speeds. These features prioritize endurance and efficiency, distinguishing cycling maillots from casual apparel. Wind-tunnel testing in the played a pivotal role in refining these designs, with studies like Kyle and (1984) demonstrating that full-length Lycra skinsuits reduced drag by approximately 11% compared to shorter versions, prompting slimmer, tighter fits to eliminate wrinkles and optimize airflow. Dal Monte et al. (1987) further validated skinsuit through controlled tests, influencing the transition to form-fitting silhouettes that became standard in competitive . Beyond , maillots serve as standardized uniforms in sports like team and , promoting team identity and consistency; for instance, in , they are commonly referred to as maillots in French-speaking contexts for their fitted, functional style. In women's soccer, FIFA-sanctioned kits adopted aerodynamic enhancements by the , with Nike's Dri-FIT —introduced in and refined for play—improving and fit for better on-field performance.

Cultural and Modern Significance

Fashion and Design Influences

The maillot, as a form-fitting one-piece garment, has significantly influenced high-fashion through innovative hybrids that blend swimwear with elements. In 1964, designer introduced the , a topless variation of the featuring slim-cut bottoms and minimal straps, which challenged traditional and inspired subsequent maillot designs with bolder, experimental silhouettes. This design pushed the boundaries of swimwear, contributing to the re-popularization of one-pieces in fashion by encouraging hybrids that incorporated cutouts and asymmetrical features for greater artistic expression. Modern designers have further integrated maillot elements into ready-to-wear collections, elevating the garment beyond its aquatic origins. Versace, for instance, frequently incorporates one-piece maillot-inspired silhouettes into its La Vacanza summer lines, combining vibrant prints and metallic accents with silk shirts and lightweight separates to create versatile beach-to-street looks. These adaptations highlight the maillot's versatility in high fashion, where its structured form serves as a canvas for luxurious embellishments and bold motifs. Material innovations in maillots have shifted toward , particularly in the , as designers responded to environmental concerns with eco-friendly fabrics. Recycled emerged as a key alternative to virgin materials, reducing energy use by up to 59% and emissions by 32% in swimwear production, enabling durable, stretchy one-pieces that maintain performance while minimizing waste. This trend reflects broader priorities, with brands adopting regenerated synthetics to create maillots that align with principles. A notable stylistic post-2000 involves maillots that blend swim and gym functionality, allowing seamless transitions between water activities and workouts. These designs feature quick-dry fabrics and supportive panels, drawing from activewear trends to produce hybrid garments suitable for or casual athleisure styling. This fusion underscores the maillot's adaptability in contemporary wardrobes, prioritizing comfort and multi-use versatility.

Usage in Contemporary Media and Sports

In the mid-20th century, maillots gained iconic status through ' aquatic musicals, where she performed routines in form-fitting one-piece suits that highlighted grace and athleticism in films such as Bathing Beauty (1944) and Million Dollar Mermaid (1952). These portrayals not only entertained audiences but also normalized maillots as symbols of glamour and sporty elegance in Hollywood cinema. Contemporary media continues to feature maillots prominently, with the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue showcasing them since its inaugural edition in 1964 as versatile, body-flattering options for diverse models. The publication has evolved to emphasize , including plus-size representations like model Ashley Graham's appearances and Denise Bidot's 2025 rookie feature, which promote narratives of and inclusivity in swimwear . Such features have influenced broader cultural perceptions, positioning maillots as empowering attire in editorials and campaigns. In sports, maillots remain central to high-profile events, exemplified by their role in Olympic swimming where the 2008 —a high-tech maillot—sparked controversy for providing hydrodynamic advantages, leading to its ban by FINA in 2009 after 94% of medalists wore it. Similarly, in maillots are essential identifiers in races, with designs like those of UAE Team Emirates or Visma-Lease a Bike symbolizing sponsorship and national pride during events such as the . The have seen cultural shifts toward greater inclusivity in maillot usage, with media highlighting plus-size options from like Summersalt, which offer sizes up to 24 and emphasize curve-enhancing fits to foster body confidence. Adaptive maillots, designed for —such as those with magnetic closures or open-back styles from Silverts—have gained in publications promoting disability-inclusive , aligning with broader trends in equitable and representation. platforms have amplified these developments, driving viral trends in maillot styling and customization that encourage diverse body types to engage with swimwear culture.

References

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