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Noil refers to the short fibers that are removed during the combing process in spinning. These fibers are often then used for other purposes.
Fibers are chosen for their length and evenness in specific spinning techniques, such as worsted.[1] The short noil fibers are left over from combing of wool or spinning silk.[2]
Noil may be treated as a shorter-staple fiber and spun, hand-plied, or used as wadding.[citation needed] Noil may also be used as a decorative additive in spinning projects like rovings and yarns.[2][3] As noil is a relatively short fiber, fabric made from noil is weaker and often considered less valuable than that made using long lengths of longer staple lengths, though it is sometimes valued for aesthetic effects (see Slub (textiles)).
Silk
[edit] |
Silk noil is also called "raw silk", although this is a misnomer.
Silk noil may also be made from the short fibres taken from silkworm cocoons – either fibres that are naturally shorter or fibres broken by emerging silk moths. Rather than the continuous filament length of silk, shorter fibers are silk noil, which has a slightly rough texture. It is relatively weaker and has low resilience. It tends to have very low lustre, which makes it appear more like cotton than silk.
Noil silk has the advantage of being made from protein. Thus, it has a better texture and depth than cotton and gives a nice fall and drape.[clarification needed]
Silk noil is also blended or appended with heavier fabrics like velvets and satins to create varied textures. Made out of the strongest natural fibres (with a protein base) around,[dubious – discuss] noil saris are not as slippery as many synthetic fibres or filament silk. Being silk, it dyes easily, absorbs moisture well, and can also be waterproofed with a polyurethane coating. Such coatings increase their use in furnishings and upholstery.
Silk noil hails from China, whence it was exported to Europe in the Middle Ages, especially to Italy. It was used to create silk blends through the first half of the 14th century. However, over time its use decreased. With an increase in demand and variety of alternatives and low-cost substitutes, noil has re-surfaced, experiencing a sort of revival. In India, noil is used to make saris, materials and furnishings.
See also
[edit]- Slub (in textiles), for a list of cloth types made from or with silk noil
- Tsumugi (cloth)
References
[edit]- ^ Cowan, Mary L. (1969). Introduction to textiles. Internet Archive. New York : Appleton-Century-Crofts. pp. 18, 312. ISBN 978-0-390-21326-6.
- ^ a b Indiana Alpaca Archived 2011-07-21 at the Wayback Machine Fiber Encyclopedia. Collected 20 Jul 2010
- ^ Encyclopædia Britannica Volume XXV, 1911 Edition, pp 107. Google Books. Collected 20 Jul 2010
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from Grokipedia
Overview
Definition
Noil refers to the short, irregular fibers that are intentionally removed during the combing stage of the textile spinning process, enabling the creation of smoother, finer yarns from longer staple fibers. This separation occurs after carding, where fibers are aligned and disentangled, and the combing step eliminates shorter lengths, neps, and irregularities to enhance yarn uniformity and strength.[13] The concept of noil applies broadly to natural staple fibers, including wool, cotton, and silk, though it is most commonly associated with silk production. In wool processing, noil consists of tangled short fibers separated via worsted combing machines to prepare parallel-aligned slivers for worsted yarns. For cotton, comber noil comprises the short fibers and neps extracted to improve fiber length distribution in premium combed yarns. Silk noil, derived from mulberry silk waste during carding and combing, represents the predominant form due to silk's unique filament-to-staple conversion in spun silk manufacturing.[14][13][15] Unlike discarded scraps or general processing waste, noil is systematically collected and valued as a reusable byproduct, often carded and spun into coarser, textured yarns suitable for specific applications. This intentional extraction and repurposing distinguish noil from mere refuse, allowing it to contribute to secondary textile products without being landfilled or incinerated. In cotton and wool systems, noil is frequently blended back into open-end or woolen spinning for economical yarn production, while silk noil yields distinctive nubby fabrics.[16][17]Etymology and Terminology
The term "noil" derives from the Old French "noiel," a variant of "noël," which traces back to Medieval Latin nōdellus, the diminutive form of Latin nōdus meaning "knot." This linguistic root alludes to the short, tangled, and knotted quality of the fibers separated during textile processing.[18][19] In textile nomenclature, "noil" universally refers to the short fibers extracted via combing, often termed "combing waste" within spinning and wool processing industries to denote the byproduct material.[1][20] For silk-derived noil, common variants include "silk noil" and the misapplied "raw silk," the latter incorrectly suggesting unprocessed filaments rather than spun short fibers; "bourette silk" describes a related slubby fabric produced from similar waste silk, emphasizing irregular textures.[21][22] Equivalents in other materials, such as "wool noil," apply the same term to short wool fibers removed during combing, highlighting cross-industry consistency in describing these uneven byproducts.[1]Production
Extraction Process
The extraction of noil primarily occurs during the combing stage of fiber preparation in the production of various natural fibers, including silk, cotton, and wool, where short fibers are mechanically separated to enhance the alignment and uniformity of the longer fibers for high-quality yarn spinning. This process is essential as a prerequisite for producing premium yarns, ensuring that short fibers—defined as those below a standard length—do not interfere with the parallelism and strength of the final product.[23] For silk, combing machines such as rotary or rectilinear combs are used to grip and draw fibers through a series of pins or teeth that progressively align the long fibers while ejecting the shorts as noil. In wool processing, the Noble comb—a rotating circular machine—performs a similar function by encircling the fiber bundle to extract short fibers and impurities. For cotton, rectilinear combers are commonly employed, removing short fibers (typically under 1.27 cm or 0.5 inches) and neps after carding. These machines operate by feeding prepared fiber slivers or laps, clamping them, and applying combing actions that straighten the fibers and remove neps, vegetable matter, and short lengths, resulting in a clean, parallel fiber mass.[24][25][26] The yield of noil varies by fiber type and process settings. In silk processing, it typically ranges from 10-20% of the total fiber mass fed into the comber, varying based on fiber quality, machine settings, and the level of parallelism required for the end yarn. For cotton, noil extraction is often 8-18%, while for wool, it can be 5-15%. This percentage reflects normal combing efficiency, where higher noil extraction correlates with finer, more uniform output slivers but reduces overall fiber recovery.[26] As a byproduct, noil is collected in a uniform, tangled mass of short fibers directly from the combing machine, allowing it to be segregated and stored for subsequent processing into coarser yarns without contaminating the premium long-fiber slivers used for fine fabrics. This separation maximizes resource utilization in mills by repurposing what would otherwise be waste.[17]Yarn and Fabric Manufacturing
The production of yarn from noil begins after the short fibers are separated during the combing stage. For silk noil, these fibers are typically 2-5 cm in length and irregular in structure, presenting significant spinning challenges due to their brevity and tendency to tangle, which complicates drafting and alignment in conventional long-staple systems designed for reeled silk.[17][27] To address these issues, silk noil undergoes carding to disentangle and partially align the fibers, followed by processing through short-staple spinning systems akin to those used for cotton waste, such as rotor (open-end) or ring spinning adapted for irregular staples. This results in slubby yarns characterized by thick-and-thin textures and a rustic appearance, with yarn counts often around 13s Ne for blended variants. Blending noil with longer fibers like cotton or polyester—at ratios up to 50% noil—enhances tensile strength and spinnability, mitigating breakage during drafting.[17][27][28] Similar processes apply to cotton noil, where short cotton fibers (often from combing waste) are carded and spun using open-end or ring spinning to produce coarse, textured yarns suitable for denim or upholstery. Wool noil, shorter and coarser, is typically carded and spun on woolen systems for felts or knitting yarns. Once spun, noil yarns are woven or knitted into textured fabrics that exploit their unevenness for a slubbed, nubby surface. Weaving typically employs plain or twill structures on handlooms or power looms, while knitting uses coarser gauges to accommodate the yarn's variability; blends with stronger fibers ensure durability during these processes.[17][29][3] Noil yarn and fabric manufacturing occurs primarily on a small-batch or industrial reuse scale in major producing regions like India and China, where sericulture or fiber waste is repurposed to minimize losses. In India, for instance, key mills generated around 70 metric tons of noil yarn annually during the 1980s, with noil silk yarn production averaging approximately 224 metric tons yearly up to 2016; ongoing rural and semi-urban operations support broader silk output of over 38,000 metric tons yearly as of fiscal year 2023-24.[17][30][31][30]Properties
Physical Characteristics
Noil silk is characterized by its distinctive nubby and irregular texture, arising from the use of short, variable-length silk fibers that create a rough, uneven surface. This construction imparts a matte, rustic appearance with subtle flecks and a low sheen, differing markedly from the smooth, lustrous finish of reeled silk fabrics.[32][6] The fabric's durability is notable despite the irregular weave, contributing to its resilience in everyday use.[5] In terms of drape and weight, noil silk exhibits a moderate, gentle fall that allows for breathable air circulation, making it lightweight yet structured. Typical fabric densities range from 120 to 170 g/m², depending on the weave and processing, which supports its versatile handling without excessive stiffness.[33][34][35] While silk noil is the most prominent type, other noil fabrics such as cotton noil exhibit similar nubby textures but greater absorbency and a softer hand, with densities often around 150-200 g/m², suitable for breathable linens. Wool noil provides warmth and elasticity but may pill more readily due to its fiber structure.[3]Chemical and Performance Attributes
Noil, derived from silk waste fibers, is primarily composed of the protein fibroin, which forms the structural core, along with residual sericin, the gummy outer coating not fully removed during processing.[36] These proteins give noil its characteristic biocompatibility and natural resilience.[37] In terms of dyeing and finishing, noil exhibits enhanced dye uptake owing to the abundance of exposed fiber ends from its short, irregular lengths, which increase surface area for dye adhesion compared to longer silk filaments.[38] However, this structure can lead to uneven coloration, as the nubby texture and varying fiber orientations may cause patchy dye distribution during processing.[38] Noil is hypoallergenic, making it suitable for sensitive skin applications, and fully biodegradable under natural conditions, breaking down via enzymatic action on its protein matrix.[39] Performance-wise, noil demonstrates superior wrinkle resistance relative to fine silks, attributed to its shorter fibers and textured structure that reduce creasing under stress.[5] It provides thermal regulation through effective moisture wicking, absorbing up to 30% of its weight in water without feeling damp, which helps maintain body temperature in varying conditions.[39] Additionally, noil maintains pH stability in the 4-7 range, allowing safe exposure to mildly acidic environments common in textile finishing without significant degradation.[40]Uses
Textile Applications
Silk noil finds extensive use in apparel due to its matte finish, affordability relative to finer silks, and suitability for casual, everyday garments. It is commonly employed in shirts, blouses, suits, and scarves, where the fabric's low sheen and textured surface provide a relaxed, non-glossy aesthetic that appeals to modern, understated fashion.[5][41][3] Designers like Eileen Fisher incorporate silk noil into tops and dresses for its soft drape and wrinkle resistance, making it ideal for versatile wardrobe staples.[3] Priced typically at $20–$30 per yard compared to $30–$80 for smoother silks like charmeuse, it offers luxury at a more accessible cost, derived from silk production by-products.[5][6] In home textiles, silk noil enhances upholstery, curtains, and bedding with its durable, rustic texture that adds visual interest without the expense of polished silks. The fabric's nubby appearance and breathability contribute to comfortable, air-circulating coverings for furniture and windows, while its medium weight ensures longevity in high-use areas.[41][3] Blends involving silk noil with cotton or wool noil create hybrid fabrics prized in casual fashion for combining textures and enhancing versatility. These mixtures, such as silk-cotton noil, improve affordability and durability for items like lightweight jackets and pants, balancing silk's softness with the sturdiness of other natural fibers.[12][42]Non-Textile Applications
Noil fibers, particularly from silk, wool, and cotton, are employed in papermaking to enhance texture and strength in handmade sheets. Silk noil adds a luxurious, fibrous quality to the pulp,[43] while wool noil contributes to durability and absorbency in specialty papers.[44] Cotton waste, including comber noil, is commonly incorporated into paper production for its high cellulose content and compatibility with recycling processes.[45] In felting applications, wool noil serves as a key material for creating non-woven insulation products, where its short fibers interlock under heat, moisture, and agitation to form dense, thermal barriers. This leverages the natural insulating properties of wool, providing eco-friendly alternatives for building acoustics and temperature regulation.[46] Silk nonwovens derived from waste silk, including noil, are similarly used in acoustic panels for offices and homes, capitalizing on silk's inherent sound-absorbing characteristics to reduce noise pollution.[47] Noil finds significant use in composite materials, where its short fiber length facilitates binding and reinforcement in bioplastics. Cotton noil-derived cellulose microfibers, when incorporated at 1-20% into polylactic acid (PLA) matrices via solvent casting, improve barrier properties against water vapor and ultraviolet light, enhancing the composites' suitability for packaging and protective applications.[48] Silk waste, encompassing noil, is processed into thermoplastic composites that exhibit promising tensile strength and modulus for load-bearing uses, promoting sustainability by upcycling textile byproducts.[49] In automotive sectors, cotton noil acts as a filler in padding materials, utilizing its absorbency and lightweight nature for vibration damping and eco-friendly interiors.[45] Cotton noil is valued in agriculture as an absorbent, biodegradable component for animal bedding, offering superior moisture management and comfort compared to synthetic alternatives while reducing environmental impact through waste repurposing. Its high purity and softness make it suitable for livestock litter, supporting hygiene and cost-effective farming practices.[50]History and Development
Origins in Traditional Silk Production
Noil consists of short silk fibers separated as a byproduct during traditional processing in sericulture. The origins of silk production trace back to Neolithic China around the 4th millennium BCE, with legendary accounts attributing the discovery to Empress Leizu in the 27th century BCE during the Yellow Emperor's reign.[51][52] In early sericulture, short and broken fibers from cocoon reeling were often considered waste and used for practical purposes such as stuffing winter garments for insulation or processing into paper as early as 105 CE, rather than routinely spun into yarns for textiles.[22] The spinning of these short fibers into coarse yarns for durable cloths suitable for everyday needs developed later, with evidence of noil use in silk blends appearing by the first half of the 14th century.[53][22] As sericulture spread westward along trade routes, traditional practices incorporating short fiber waste developed in regions like India and Persia by the early centuries CE. In India, where mulberry silk cultivation was introduced around the 4th century CE via Buddhist monks from China, waste from processing contributed to rough handloom fabrics like matka silk for peasant attire and local trade, exemplifying resource-efficient textile traditions.[54][55] Similarly, in Persia, silk production flourished by the 4th century CE, with short fiber waste from damaged mulberry cocoons utilized to produce floss silk for utilitarian garments and padding, supporting both domestic consumption and regional commerce before the widespread adoption of finer silks.[56][22] Culturally, short silk fibers held utilitarian value in these societies, contrasting sharply with the luxurious status of exported fine silk, which symbolized wealth and imperial authority. In ancient China, silk waste was often repurposed for commoner needs while premium silk fueled the Silk Road economy.[22] In India and Persia, waste-based textiles served everyday peasant needs, reinforcing social hierarchies where elite exports like smooth silks represented prestige and international trade power.[57][54]Modern Industrial Advancements
The introduction of mechanized combing and spinning processes in Europe during the 19th century revolutionized noil production by enabling the efficient processing of short silk fibers previously considered waste. While noil-like short fibers appeared in wool and cotton textiles as early as the 14th century in England, the focus on silk noil intensified with industrial methods. The first dedicated silk-spinning mill opened in Galgate, England, in 1792, adapting principles from cotton and wool machinery to spin noil into usable yarn. By the mid-19th century, inventors like Samuel Cunliffe Lister further advanced mechanization between 1857 and 1865, developing power looms that increased output and made noil-based fabrics like velvet more accessible. This surge in noil volume facilitated the establishment of specialized mills in Japan and Italy by the early 1900s; in Japan, silk reeling and spinning technology was introduced in 1872 with imported machinery from France and Switzerland, leading to dedicated facilities that peaked in the 1930s, while Italy focused on noil-derived crepe production amid growing exports to Britain.[58][58][58] In the 20th century, post-World War II demand for affordable textiles spurred increased exports of noil and spun silk from Asia, as Japan and other producers shifted toward mass-market applications to rebuild economies. Japan's silk industry, once dominant in raw silk, adapted by emphasizing spun silk from noil waste, though overall silk exports declined to less than a fifth of prewar levels by the late 1940s due to global disruptions. However, the affordability of noil-based fabrics supported recovery in ethical and budget-conscious markets until the 1980s, when the rise of synthetic blends like rayon and nylon significantly reduced demand for pure noil products; rayon, introduced as "artificial silk," became increasingly common in hosiery and underwear during the 1920s, a trend that intensified postwar as synthetics offered cheaper alternatives, leading to a marked contraction in pure noil usage.[59][60][61] Since the 2000s, contemporary trends in noil processing have emphasized sustainability, leveraging its waste-origin to promote eco-friendly practices in ethical fashion. Certifications such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) have been applied to organic silk noil, ensuring environmentally responsible sourcing and processing from harvesting through manufacturing, with companies like Clerici Tessuto achieving GOTS accreditation for their organic silk fabrics. This focus on upcycling noil waste aligns with broader ethical fashion movements, reducing resource depletion and supporting certifications that verify low-impact production for noil yarns and textiles.[62][63]References
- https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/noil