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Spantik, also known as Golden Peak, is a mountain situated in the Spantik-Sosbun subrange within the Karakoram range. It is located in Shigar District, of the Gilgit-Baltistan region administered by Pakistan. The northwest face of Spantik is dominated by a pronounced pillar of creamy yellow marble which reaches up its north face to 300 m below the summit. Its distinctive appearance has given the peak its Buruskaski name, "Ganesh Chish" or Golden Peak.[1] This outcropping is renowned for its exceptionally challenging climbing route, famously referred to as the "Golden Pillar".[2]

Key Information

Spantik is positioned to the east of Diran (7,266 m) and northeast of Malubiting (7,458 m).[3] There are various routes leading to the mountain, including paths from the Arandu village in Shigar District, as well as routes originating from the Hopar Valley in Nagar District.

Spantik northwest face

Climbing history

[edit]

The southeast ridge presents a challenging ascent, spanning2,700 metres (8,900 ft) over a lateral distance of 7.6 km. The terrain along this ridge is diverse, ranging from rocky outcrops to snow, ice, and scree. The incline along this route generally remains under 30 degrees, with a few sections reaching up to 40 degrees. The most frequently chosen route for climbers follows the southeast ridge, a line that was originally attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906.[citation needed]

The mountain has become popular with organised commercial expeditions, due to its relative ease of ascent and scarcity of objective dangers.[citation needed] The short 3-day approach trek across straightforward terrain also provides for easy access and gradual acclimatization.

First ascents

[edit]

The first recorded attempt to climb Spantik was in 1906 by the American couple Fanny Bullock Workman and Dr. William Hunter Workman. They reached an altitude 1,000 feet below the summit.[4] In 1955, Germans Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt and Jochen Tietze made the first successful ascent of Spantik via the Chogolungma Glacier up the southeast ridge.[4]

In 1978, separate Japanese expeditions made successful summits via the southeast ridge[5] and the unclimbed south ridge.[6]

In 1985, a Dutch expedition made the fourth successful summit of Spantik, and the first ascents by female climbers Antoinette Briët, Sabine Deneer, and Dr. Margreet Hogeweg.[7]

In 1987, George Fowler and Anthony Victor Saunders made the first ascent of Spantik's "Golden Pillar" via its northwest face.[4] The route would not be summited again until 2000.[8][9]

In 1989, a Swiss-German expedition saw the next successful summits by female climbers, made by Irene Oehringer, Ursula Heynert, Eva Höllinger, Gerhild Kurze, and Monika Weber.[10]

In 2009, a Korean expedition by Kim Hyung-il, Kim Pal-bong, and Min Jun-young made a new route on Spantik's northwest face, climbing in alpine style.[11] The 2,300 m route, Dream 2009 was climbed from July 8 to 14th and graded VI WI4 M8.[12]

Pakistani expeditions

[edit]

The first Pakistani expedition to Spantik took place in 1988, consisting of six Pakistan army personnel alongside a German expedition team, The first Pakistani to reach the summit was Muhammad Moiz Uddin Uppal.[citation needed]

In July 2011, Spantik was climbed by a team of mountaineers from the Army High Altitude School Rattu. Lt Col Abdul Aziz supervised the team of climbers.[citation needed]

In 2012, Abdul Jabbar Bhatti led the China-Pakistan Friendship Expedition to a successful ascent of Spantik in honor of the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan.[13]

On August 2, 2017, Uzma Yousaf became the first Pakistani woman to climb Spantik as well as any peak above 7,000 meters in Pakistan.[14] The next year, Komal Uzair became the second Pakistani woman to scale Spantik.[15]

On 14 August 2024, Fareed Hussain became the youngest mountaineer to summit Golden Peak.[more detail needed] He hails from Rahimabad, a small village in Gilgit.[citation needed][16]

Dual ascent

[edit]

In 1998, French climber Daniel Petraud summitted Spantik twice in 16 hours, a new milestone.[17]

Youngest ascent

[edit]

On July 17, 2019, Selena Khawaja, a 10 year old girl from Abbottabad reached the summit, becoming the youngest person to scale Spantik and any peak over 7,000 metres in the world.[18]

Ski descent

[edit]

In 2019, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein made the first successful ski descent of Spantik.[19]

Paragliding

[edit]

On June 8, 2021, French paraglider Antoine Girard landed a paraglider at 6,400 m (21,000 ft) on Spantik's southwest ridge. He climbed to the summit, and flew off the mountain, landing safely in Karimabad an hour later.[20][21]

Climbing incidents

[edit]

In 2002, Japanese climber Saito Kenji died on descent from the summit of acute mountain sickness.[22]

In August 2006, German climber Andrea Linckh died near Camp II on her descent from the summit.[23][24]

In June 2024, Japanese climbers Atsushi Taguchi and Ryuseki Hiraoka went missing during their attempt to summit the peak in alpine style.[25] Hiraoka's body was found 300 m (980 ft) below camp III, two days after going missing.[26] A third Japanese climber, Hiroshi Onishi died less than a month later after falling into a crevasse.[27][28]

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]

Bibliography

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Spantik

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Spantik, also known as Golden Peak, is a prominent mountain in the range of , , rising to an elevation of 7,027 meters (23,054 feet) at coordinates approximately 36°3′26″N 74°57′58″E. Located on the boundary between the Nagar and Arandu valleys in the Nagar District, it forms part of the Spantik-Sosbun subrange and is approached via the Hopar Glacier. The peak derives its nickname from the striking golden glow that illuminates its southeast ridge during sunrise and sunset, caused by the reddish rock formations contrasting with the snow cover. Geographically, Spantik stands out for its relatively straightforward climbing profile among 7,000-meter peaks, featuring a long snow ridge with slopes of 30° to 45° and minimal technical difficulties on its primary route. From its summit, climbers enjoy panoramic views encompassing the Nagar and Hunza valleys, as well as distant vistas of , , and peaks in the Baltoro region. The mountain's northwest face, however, presents a dramatic 2,500-meter marble pillar that has challenged alpinists, while its position in a seismically active area underscores the environmental hazards of the . Base camp is typically established at around 4,200–4,500 meters near the Hopar Glacier, serving as a hub for expeditions that highlight the region's glaciated terrain and . The first recorded attempt on Spantik occurred in 1906 by American explorers Fanny and William Bullock Workman, who reached about 6,700 meters via the southeast ridge but were forced to retreat. The successful was achieved on July 5, 1955, by a German expedition led by Karl Kramer, with Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt, and Jochen Tietze summiting via the southeast ridge route using fixed ropes and teamwork among the group. Since then, Spantik has become a favored objective for mountaineers seeking high-altitude experience, with dozens of ascents annually due to its accessibility compared to steeper giants; notable later routes include the of the east ridge in 2025 by French climber Mathieu Maynadier and Pakistani Mueez Uddin. Its popularity also stems from serving as preparation for more demanding peaks like those in the 8,000-meter club, though it requires to altitude and travel skills.

Geography

Location

Spantik is positioned at 36°3′26″N 74°57′58″E within the rugged terrain of northern Pakistan. The peak lies in the Spantik-Sosbun subrange of the Karakoram mountains, a prominent section known for its high-altitude glaciers and dramatic ridges. This subrange forms part of the larger Karakoram system, which extends across the border regions of Gilgit-Baltistan. Spantik is located on the boundary between and Nagar districts in the region, a remote area in characterized by its high plateaus and glacial valleys. The mountain straddles the boundary between these districts, with its northern flanks overlooking the Hopar Valley in the neighboring Nagar District, and its southern approaches reaching into the Arandu Valley of . Reaching Spantik typically involves travel from , the regional hub, along the River valley by jeep to Arandu village, followed by a multi-day trek across the Chogolungma to base camp. This route provides the primary access point, navigating through narrow gorges and fields before ascending toward the mountain's lower slopes.

Surrounding features

Spantik is situated within the Spantik-Sosbun subrange of the , surrounded by prominent nearby peaks that contribute to the dramatic topography of the area. Northeast lies Phuparash Peak (6,574 m), approximately 25 km from Spantik, in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh subrange. Further east, the Sosbun peaks, including Sosbun Brakk at 6,413 meters, form part of the subrange's rugged skyline, accessible via the Solu and known for their challenging alpine features. The mountain's glacial systems dominate the surrounding landscape, with the Chogo Lungma Glacier serving as the primary approach route to Spantik's base camp, extending approximately 50 kilometers through crevassed terrain and fields. Nearby, the Hopar Glacier, originating near Spantik and flowing into the , adds to the extensive ice network, creating a complex of interconnected glacial flows that shape the upper . Hydrologically, the region drains into the River, which gathers from Spantik's glaciers and flows northwest as a major tributary of the basin, supporting downstream ecosystems in . The terrain exemplifies a high-altitude environment, characterized by arid, rocky slopes with sparse limited to seasonal alpine grasses and wildflowers in summer meadows near base camps, alongside persistent snowfields and hazardous icefalls on the glaciers. is adapted to this harsh setting, with sightings of common in the early season around lower elevations. The broader context includes alpine pastures and shrublands that harbor significant , though the immediate vicinity of Spantik remains predominantly barren due to extreme altitude and cold conditions.

Physical characteristics

Dimensions and prominence

Spantik rises to an elevation of 7,027 meters (23,054 feet) above , making it one of the notable seven-thousanders in the range. This height places it among the higher peaks in Pakistan's region, where it stands as the 66th highest mountain in the country. The peak's measures 1,207 meters (3,960 feet), indicating significant independent rise from its surrounding terrain and contributing to its distinct profile within the Spantik-Sosbun subrange. This prominence value underscores Spantik's role as a key landmark in the , separate from nearby summits like and Malubiting. Spantik exhibits a topographic isolation of approximately 8.86 kilometers (5.5 miles) from its nearest higher neighbor, Malubiting (7,458 meters), highlighting its relative seclusion in the rugged landscape despite proximity to other major peaks in the region. This isolation metric emphasizes the peak's standalone character, accessible primarily via the Hopar or Chogo Lungma glaciers.

Geological formation

Spantik is primarily composed of granitic and associated metamorphic rocks derived from the batholith, a extensive granitic intrusion spanning approximately km along the range. This batholith includes pre-collisional I-type granodiorites and granites that underwent to amphibolite facies, featuring minerals such as biotite, , and in banded formations near the mountain's base camp area. The geological formation of Spantik is intrinsically linked to the Himalayan orogeny, initiated by the collision of the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates around 50 million years ago, which closed the Neo-Tethys Ocean and triggered widespread crustal shortening and thickening across the region. This tectonic event resulted in the uplift of the range, with post-collisional magmatism producing monzogranites and leucogranites between 21 and 13 million years ago, further contributing to the batholith's development and the mountain's foundational structure. Ongoing tectonic activity has influenced local structures, including open folds (such as the Spantik fold) and south-vergent isoclinal folds in the surrounding gneisses, reflecting multi-stage deformation events. Structurally, Spantik displays steep faces covered in , unstable seracs formed along fracture zones in the metamorphic rocks, and a prominent southeast that highlights the interplay of tectonic uplift and differential . These features arise from the brittle-ductile deformation of the granitic under high-pressure conditions during the , creating elongated structures aligned with regional shear zones. Glacial processes have significantly modified Spantik's morphology through ongoing , sculpting its pyramid-like form via basin development and the carving of sharp ridges by multiple glaciers acting on the from various directions. Surrounding glacial systems, such as those in the Chogo Lungma valley, exacerbate this , depositing moraines and exposing underlying rock layers while continuously shaping the mountain's steep profiles.

Climbing history

Early exploration

The first recorded attempt on Spantik occurred in 1903, when American explorers and her husband, William Hunter Workman, ventured into the as part of their expedition to the Chogo Lungma Glacier. Accompanied by Swiss guide Cyprien Savoye and a team of porters, they targeted a prominent pyramid-shaped peak, which they named Pyramid Peak and later became recognized as Spantik. The couple ascended to an altitude of approximately 6,878 meters (22,567 feet), setting a women's altitude record at the time, though they did not reach the main summit due to challenging conditions on the upper slopes. In the early , British colonial authorities undertook systematic mapping and surveying initiatives in the as part of broader efforts to document the region's geography under the . During the and 1930s, these expeditions, often led by military and scientific personnel, produced detailed topographic maps and glaciological studies that highlighted Spantik (then referred to as Pyramid Peak or similar local names) as a significant unclimbed peak in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh subrange. Kenneth Mason's comprehensive 1930 report on the area's glaciers explicitly noted the peak's prominent position and potential for future , contributing to its recognition in Western mountaineering circles. Post-World War II, renewed interest in the Karakoram drew reconnaissance missions from Central European teams eager to tackle high-altitude objectives in the newly accessible post-colonial frontier. German and Austrian mountaineers, building on wartime hiatuses in , scouted routes in the early , including assessments of Spantik's southeast ridge and glacier approaches as viable lines for ascent. A notable failed attempt in 1954 involved a Swiss group, which reached advanced positions but was turned back by and logistical challenges, paving the way for subsequent efforts.

First ascent

The first ascent of Spantik was achieved on July 5, 1955, by a German expedition led by Karl Kramer. The summit team consisted of Reiner Diepen, Eduard Reinhardt, and Jochen Tietze, who followed the southeast ridge starting from a base camp at approximately 4,100 m on the Chogo Lungma Glacier. The route required establishing multiple intermediate camps along the 8 km-long ridge, which featured sections of steep snow and ice up to 40 degrees, demanding careful navigation and the use of fixed ropes supported by local porters. This success marked one of the earliest major post-World War II ascents in the , demonstrating renewed European efforts in the region after a period of limited activity.

Notable routes and expeditions

One of the most iconic routes on Spantik is the Golden Pillar, a prominent 2,200-meter northwest pillar on the mountain's west face, first ascended in alpine style over six days by British climbers and Victor Saunders, reaching the summit on August 11, 1987. This expedition marked the fifth overall ascent of the peak and represented a landmark achievement in big-wall climbing in the , featuring technical mixed terrain on crystalline marble, including crux sections with overhanging grooves, verglas-covered shale, and sustained difficulties comparable to the Walker Spur on the . Graded as VI overall, the route's pure alpine-style execution without fixed ropes or supplemental oxygen highlighted the era's shift toward lightweight, self-sufficient ascents in high-altitude environments. The southeast ridge, the standard route established during the mountain's in 1955, has seen numerous variations explored by subsequent expeditions, particularly by Japanese teams in the late 1970s employing siege-style tactics with large parties, fixed lines, and multiple camps to tackle the long, corniced and sections. In , a Japanese expedition led by successfully summited via the adjacent south ridge, with climbers Shigeru Nakamura and Shuetsu traversing onto the southeast ridge near the top after establishing advanced camps amid challenging weather and risks; this approach involved a team of over a dozen members methodically securing the 2,500-meter route over several weeks. These efforts built on the original German line by incorporating variations to avoid threats, establishing the ridge as a reliable but demanding path for guided and international groups. Attempts on Spantik's west face, including the imposing Golden Pillar, faced early setbacks, such as the 1984 British expedition by the North London Mountaineering Club, which targeted nearby Bojohagur Duanasir but failed due to unstable rock and weather, though the team scouted the west face and recognized the pillar's potential during . Building on such explorations, successful traverses emerged in the , with international teams completing cross-mountain links that incorporated west face features, such as a 1995 French "Allibert" expedition that ascended via the south ridge before traversing elements of the west to the summit, demonstrating improved logistics and strategies for multi-route objectives. These traverses, often involving hybrid lines of , , and rock, underscored the face's complexity while paving the way for later direct ascents. In the 2000s, Pakistani-led expeditions gained prominence, emphasizing local expertise and sustainable guiding practices, with operators like Karavan Leaders organizing efforts such as the 2002 ascent via the southeast ridge that integrated Pakistani high-altitude porters as lead climbers to foster community involvement in Karakoram mountaineering. These initiatives, often in partnership with international teams like the 2018 Swedish-Pakistani joint expedition, promoted training for local guides from regions like Skardu and Hunza, resulting in numerous recorded summits by Pakistani-led groups by 2020, many via the accessible southeast ridge to build capacity amid growing tourism. Such expeditions not only diversified access but also highlighted the role of indigenous knowledge in navigating the peak's glacial approaches and variable conditions. In June 2025, French alpinist Mathieu Maynadier and Pakistani climber Mueez Ud Din completed the of the east ridge in alpine style over six days, establishing a new technical route named the Zindabad Route amid mixed rock and ice terrain up to 80 degrees. This achievement highlighted ongoing exploration of Spantik's lesser-climbed faces and strengthened international collaboration in Pakistani .

Records and variants

Spantik has witnessed several notable records and variants in , highlighting the peak's appeal for both traditional ascents and innovative descents. In 2019, 10-year-old Pakistani climber Selena Khawaja became the youngest person to a 7,000-meter peak by reaching Spantik's 7,027-meter via the standard southeast ridge route. Non-traditional activities have also marked the mountain's history. The first complete ski descent of Spantik occurred in 2019, when French skiers Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein summited and descended the southeast ridge, navigating deep snow domes and steep sections up to 45° in challenging conditions. Paragliding variants from the summit have added to Spantik's adventurous legacy. In 2021, French paraglider and alpinist Antoine Girard achieved a one-day ascent followed by a launch from the summit, combining climbing and flight to cover significant distance over the Karakoram terrain. More recently, in 2023, a group of international paragliders, including Vaso Ovcharov, successfully launched from the summit after climbing, soaring above the peak's cliffs for extended flights amid the remote glacial landscape.

Climbing incidents

Major accidents

In 2024, Spantik experienced a series of fatal climbing incidents involving Japanese mountaineers, marking some of the most notable accidents on the peak in recent years. On , experienced climbers Ryuseki Hiraoka, 55, and Atsushi Taguchi went missing while attempting the via the standard southeast ridge route. Hiraoka's body was recovered two days later at high altitude, and after an unsuccessful weeklong search, Taguchi was presumed dead, with authorities calling off operations on June 20. Officials speculated that the pair may have been struck by an or fallen into a during their alpine-style ascent. Less than three weeks later, on July 1, another Japanese climber, Hiroshi Onishi, 64, summited Spantik but fell into a while descending from Camp II on the southeast ridge. His body was located by on July 3 and retrieved the following day, confirming his death from the accident. Onishi was part of a separate expedition and had successfully reached the 7,027-meter summit earlier that day. These three fatalities, all on the popular southeast ridge, underscored the risks of ice and snow instability on the route, which is generally considered accessible but prone to sudden hazards like hidden and potential avalanches. Common causes of death on Spantik include falls and , as evidenced by the 2024 incidents, with the southeast ridge showing a higher concentration of such events due to its glacial terrain and variable ice conditions. While comprehensive historical records are limited, these accidents contributed to at least three confirmed deaths on the mountain that year, highlighting ongoing challenges despite its reputation as a relatively straightforward 7,000er.

Rescues and safety measures

Rescue operations on Spantik have primarily relied on coordinated efforts involving local high-altitude porters, the Pakistani Army's aviation units, and international support teams, often challenged by the peak's remote location. In 2024, multiple incidents highlighted these efforts: on July 3, Pakistani Army successfully extracted the body of Japanese climber Hiroshi Onishi, 64, who had fallen into a while descending from the after reaching it earlier that week. Similarly, in June 2024, rescuers located and recovered the body of Ryuseki Hiraoka, 55, one of two Japanese climbers who went missing while attempting the ; searches for the second climber were called off due to harsh conditions after extensive ground and aerial operations involving nine-member teams. These recoveries underscore the use of helicopter airlifts by the Pakistani Army, a critical resource deployed since the early for high-altitude emergencies in the region. Key rescue operations demonstrate evolving capabilities, such as the integration of local services for rapid response. For instance, in high-profile cases like the incidents, ground teams from Skardu-based operators joined helicopters to access sites above 6,000 , facilitating body recoveries within days despite logistical hurdles. The reliance on such combined forces has been standard since around , with organizations like local adventure operators providing trained porters for initial assessments and extractions. Safety advancements have significantly mitigated risks on Spantik expeditions. Mandatory use of satellite phones ensures real-time communication for emergencies, allowing teams to summon help from base camps or coordination centers. The Alpine Club of Pakistan provides essential services, enabling climbers to anticipate storms and hazards through daily updates sourced from meteorological data. Additionally, training for guides, offered through programs in the , emphasizes techniques like systems and setups, equipping local teams to handle falls independently before external aid arrives. Despite these measures, Spantik's remote position in the Chogo Lungma Glacier area often delays responses to 24-48 hours or longer, primarily due to unpredictable weather grounding helicopters and the need for overland access from , which can take a full day. This lag highlights ongoing challenges in balancing expedition accessibility with rapid intervention.

References

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