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Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein Collection
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Calvin Klein Collection (renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC in 2017 under Raf Simons) is the brand name for the high-end designer womenswear and menswear lines from fashion house Calvin Klein which were presented on the catwalks of New York Fashion Week and Milan Fashion Week, respectively.

Designer apparel, dresses, coats, dress shirts, eyewear, footwear and leather goods were sold under this 'black label' line which represented the top level in the brand pyramid of the various Calvin Klein brands.

On March 7, 2019, parent company PVH announced a focus on the numerous less expensive mass market Calvin Klein brands and the discontinuation of the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC runway collections after the contract with designer Simons had been terminated.[1]

In 2024, Veronica Leoni was appointed Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection and charged with re-launching the line. [2]

Overview

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Calvin Klein Collection was one of several Calvin Klein brands owned by Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of Phillips Van Heusen (PVH). PVH described the Collection as "the most prestigious and luxurious brand, setting the tone of elegance and modern sophistication for all of the other Calvin Klein brands."[3]

[4] Collection women's dresses retailed at about US$900–2,000 in the 1990s, but could cost up to $3,000 or more. A men's suit entered at around US$1,300. These prices were significantly higher than those for comparable, mass-produced items in the company's ck label, platinum label (for Europe & Asia only), white label (jeans, underwear, etc.) and sportswear lines.

Calvin Klein Collection clothing was traditionally presented bi-annually during New York Fashion Week (womenswear) and Milan Fashion Week (menswear). For the fall/winter 2009-10 shows at New York Fashion Week in February 2009, "as a one-off event" and at the occasion of the brand's 40th anniversary, Calvin Klein Collection menswear returned to New York City "after years of showing in Milan".[5][6] The spring/summer 2010 collection was shown in Milan again as it had always been clear that “the brand plans to return to the runway in Milan for future shows”.[7] Under Raf Simons and with the new name, referring to the address of the company's headquarters in New York, the women's and men's collections were combined into one show during New York Fashion Week.

The label sewn into the clothes used to be off-white with black characters until fall 2004. After that, it was black with a tonal logotype. The signature font did not change. From 2017 to 2019, it was a black label with the new name in white characters and capital letters (CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC).

Licensing and Production

[edit]

Before PVH decided in 2003 to license the Collection business, the design of Calvin Klein Collection had been managed out of the label's West 39th Street headquarters in New York City by Mr. Klein and his design staff, even though the pieces were European-produced. The worldwide license for the Collection was then held from 2003 by Vestimenta SpA, an Italian high-fashion manufacturer, whose bankruptcy led Fingen SpA of Italy (the parent of the licensees for Calvin Klein Jeanswear in Europe and Asia and ck Calvin Klein bridge apparel in Europe) to take over the license starting with the Spring 2006 line in the form of a subsidiary named CMI (Confezioni Moda Italia).[8][9] In late 2005, the New York-based Warnaco Group, an apparel manufacturer that already cooperates with Calvin Klein in their sportswear and Jeans business on the US market, arranged to acquire the worldwide license from "Florence-based Fingen SpA for $286 million" for the 2008 to 2013 period.[10][11] However, in December 2007 PVH took design and production duties for the collection back in-house to regain full control of the label and Warnaco instead received the rights to operate Calvin Klein Jeans retail stores in Europe, Asia and Latin America and ck Calvin Klein accessories stores in Europe and Latin America.[12]

Designers at Calvin Klein Collection

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Before the house of Calvin Klein was sold to PVH in late 2002,[13] Mr. Klein himself oversaw the design of the women's and men's collection. After the sale, he functioned as a creative consultant for a short time and was later released from all duties within the company.[14]

The creative director for Calvin Klein Collection for women from 2003 to 2016 was Brazilian-born Francisco Costa, a former Gucci designer, who had already worked with Mr. Klein directly before the founder’s departure from the company. Italo Zucchelli, a former Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli designer, had worked as senior designer for menswear at Calvin Klein for six seasons before he served as creative director of the Calvin Klein Collection menswear line from spring 2004 until April 2016. Ulrich Grimm was the creative director of men’s and women’s Collection shoes and accessories.

On August 2, 2016, Calvin Klein, Inc. announced the appointment of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer of the brand.[15]

During his tenure, Simons led the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein Platinum, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home brands. As part of his role as Chief Creative Officer, Simons oversaw all aspects of design, global marketing and communications, and visual creative services. Simons’ first collections debuted for the fall/winter 2017 season.[16]

The arrival of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer signified “a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein”, said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc.[17] “Not since Mr. Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future. Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.”

Simons' work was a complete departure from the simple and elegant monochromatic designs of prior seasons. For his designs, Simons entered into many costly collaborations, such as the Andy Warhol and Robert Mapplethorpe estates.[18] Simons' designs created media attention and were applauded by fashion critics, yet failed to sell well.[19] His contract was ended in December 2018 after internal disagreements over the strategic alignment of the Calvin Klein brand and its overall image. PVH announced in early March 2019 the discontinuation of the runway collections. In late March 2019, PVH's CEO announced rising revenue at Calvin Klein after Simons' departure.

In 2024, PVH announced the appointment of Veronica Leoni as Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection.[2] She has previously worked for labels such as Jill Sander and The Row, and runs her own brand Quira. [20] She will return the brand to the runway in the fall/winter 2025 season.

Calvin Klein Collection Advertising

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The Calvin Klein Collection advertisements used two "house/signature" models every season (one male, one female) to advertise the brand, in addition to modeling on the runway. Models for past seasons include Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Natalia Vodianova, Toni Garrn, Suvi Koponen, and Andrew Stetson.

For Fall 2010, Lara Stone was exclusively signed for the women's apparel advertising campaigns for Calvin Klein Collection, as well as ck Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans.[21]

Calvin Klein Collection stores

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From 2006 up until the brand's discontinuation in 2019 PVH operated only one store under the Calvin Klein Collection label in the U.S.:

  • 654 Madison Ave., New York (flagship store; opened in 1995, closed in 2019) [22]

The Paris store at 53, Avenue Montaigne, originally opened in 1997, closed in March 2006 because PVH decided it was unprofitable. It was the label's only international signature outlet directly owned by PVH. A third directly owned store in Dallas' Highland Park was closed after 20 years in January 2006 for the same above-mentioned reason. There were other international locations, such as London, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Milan, Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Shenyang, Shanghai, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Macau where Calvin Klein Collection stores or shop-in-shops could be found that were maintained by partners.

References

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[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Calvin Klein Collection

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Calvin Klein Collection is the luxury line of the American fashion brand , embodying the house's signature minimalist and sensual aesthetic through high-end womenswear, menswear, and accessories. Founded in 1968 by designer and business partner Barry Schwartz with an initial focus on coats and suits, the brand quickly expanded into and established the Collection as its pinnacle expression of refined, boundary-pushing design. Over its history, Calvin Klein Collection has been shaped by a series of influential creative directors who advanced its reputation for clean lines, innovative tailoring, and cultural impact. Calvin Klein himself directed the line until 2003, when the brand was acquired by , after which Francisco Costa led womenswear and Italo Zucchelli helmed menswear, introducing sophisticated collections that blended sensuality with modernity. In 2016, became chief creative officer, infusing the line with youthful, gender-fluid elements until its discontinuation in 2019 following his departure. The line was revived in 2024 under Italian designer Veronica Leoni as , marking the brand's first female-led era for Collection and a return to presentations with a focus on monumental . Her debut Fall 2025 collection, shown in New York, featured sleek tailoring, neutral palettes, and pieces like collarless coats and strapless dresses, evoking the house's foundational ethos while emphasizing contemporary ease and unadorned elegance. This resurgence positions Calvin Klein Collection as a key player in luxury fashion, continuing the brand's legacy of provocative simplicity and global influence.

History

Founding and Early Development

Calvin Klein and his childhood friend Barry Schwartz founded Inc. in 1968 with a $10,000 investment from Schwartz, establishing a small coat shop in the York Hotel in . The duo initially focused on women's coats and suits, securing their first major retail order of $50,000 from that same year, which propelled the nascent brand to $1 million in sales by the end of 1968. The brand experienced rapid early success with its emphasis on tailored women's coats and suits, leading to expansions into , blazers, and by 1971, at which point annual sales reached $5 million. In 1978, the company ventured into through a licensing agreement with Puritan Fashions, introducing the Jeans line that quickly became a of its casualwear offerings. These developments marked the brand's shift from niche outerwear to a broader apparel portfolio, with Klein receiving the American Fashion Critics' Award in 1973 for his innovative women's designs—the youngest recipient at the time—and additional wins in 1974 and 1975. In 1994, the Calvin Klein Collection debuted as the brand's black label luxury line, distinguishing itself through minimalist, high-quality pieces that prioritized clean lines and subtle sensuality, setting it apart from the mass-market segments. maintained personal oversight of the designs during this period, infusing the Collection with his signature aesthetic of pared-down elegance and understated eroticism until 2002.

Major Milestones and Ownership Changes

In 1995, opened its first dedicated boutique for the Collection line at 654 in , featuring a minimalist interior designed by British architect that emphasized clean lines, neutral tones, and expansive glass panels to highlight the brand's understated luxury aesthetic. The company's trajectory shifted significantly when Calvin Klein Inc. was sold to Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation (now ) in late 2002, with the acquisition completed in early 2003 for $430 million, comprising $400 million in cash and $30 million in stock and warrants, transitioning the brand from independent ownership to integration within a larger apparel conglomerate. During the 2000s, the brand experienced revenue peaks, with global sales exceeding $3 billion by 2002 and growing to $5.8 billion annually by , driven in part by the premium positioning of the Collection line amid expanding wholesale and retail channels under PVH's . In 2017, under the creative direction of , the Collection line was renamed —referencing the brand's New York headquarters address at 205 West 39th Street—to reinvigorate its luxury positioning with a more contemporary, address-specific identity tied to the city's fashion heritage. By 2018, amid ongoing corporate transitions, the line expanded into accessories such as bags, belts, and , while pursuing high-profile collaborations, including a capsule with The Foundation that incorporated artistic prints into and diffusion offerings to broaden accessibility during the period. The line's runway presentations were discontinued in 2019 following ' departure, entering a hiatus until its revival in 2024.

Creative Direction

Key Designers and Their Tenures

Calvin Klein founded his eponymous company in 1968 and served as its primary designer until 2002, establishing the brand's signature minimalist aesthetic characterized by clean lines, neutral palettes, and understated luxury that defined American sportswear for decades. In 2003, following the acquisition of the company by Phillips-Van Heusen (now PVH Corp.), Francisco Costa was appointed creative director for the women's Calvin Klein Collection, a role he held until 2016; a Brazilian designer who previously assisted Tom Ford at Gucci, Costa brought a sense of fluid draping and sensual minimalism to the line, evolving its ready-to-wear offerings while maintaining the founder's core principles. Simultaneously, Italo Zucchelli joined as creative director for the men's Collection in 2003, serving until 2016; the Italian designer, formerly at Jil Sander, emphasized architectural tailoring and innovative fabrications that modernized menswear with precise, sculptural forms. In August 2016, Belgian designer was named chief creative officer, overseeing both men's and women's Collection lines until his departure in December 2018; known for his work at and his eponymous label, Simons rebranded the Collection as 205W39NYC and infused it with influences, blending high fashion with casual American elements to broaden its appeal. Following Simons' exit, PVH Corp. announced in January 2019 the shuttering of the 205W39NYC line and, by March 2019, the complete discontinuation of the Calvin Klein Collection business, marking a transitional period with no dedicated creative director as the company shifted focus to its core diffusion and licensing operations. In May 2024, PVH relaunched the Calvin Klein Collection and appointed Italian designer Veronica Leoni as its —the first woman in that role—effective September 2024; previously design director at The Row and founder of her own label Quira, Leoni is tasked with reviving the line's high-end for both genders, with her debut Fall 2025 collection shown at in February 2025, followed by the Spring 2026 collection in September 2025, emphasizing monumental and urban sensuality.
DesignerRoleTenureBackground and High-Level Impact
Founder and Primary Designer1968–2002Established minimalist aesthetic foundational to the brand's identity.
Francisco CostaWomen's 2003–2016Former collaborator; introduced fluid, sensual elements to women's collections.
Italo ZucchelliMen's 2003–2016Ex-Jil Sander; advanced architectural precision in menswear.
Chief Creative Officer (Men's and Women's)2016–2018Belgian innovator; rebranded to 205W39NYC, incorporating for broader relevance.
No Dedicated DirectorTransitional Wind-Down2018–2019PVH discontinued Collection line, focusing on diffusion.
Veronica Leoni (Men's and Women's)2024–presentItalian, ex-The Row; relaunches with modern for runway return.

Design Philosophy and Innovations

The design philosophy of Calvin Klein Collection has long centered on , radical simplicity, and sensual provocation, transforming American sportswear into elevated luxury through clean lines, neutral palettes, and subtle . This approach, pioneered by in the 1970s, emphasized elegant, simple garments in natural fabrics like and , drawing from sportswear's practicality while infusing it with high-end refinement. The aesthetic prioritizes reduction and purity, avoiding ornate details to highlight the body's form, as seen in the brand's enduring commitment to monochromatic schemes and understated tailoring that blend functionality with desire. Key innovations include the introduction of gender-fluid silhouettes in the , which blurred traditional menswear and womenswear boundaries through androgynous cuts and styling, influencing the brand's shift toward inclusive expression. In the , under 's ownership, the Collection began incorporating sustainable materials and practices, aligning with broader brand efforts toward environmental responsibility. Signature elements define the line's , including bias-cut dresses that drape fluidly to accentuate the , as exemplified in halter styles from the mid-2000s onward; precision-tailored suiting with light construction for modern versatility; and monochromatic palettes that reinforce the minimalist ethos, often in whites, blacks, or earth tones to evoke timeless elegance. These motifs, originating in the , have shaped high fashion by prioritizing form over embellishment. The philosophy evolved toward greater inclusivity in the mid-2010s, incorporating size diversity in campaigns starting around 2015 to promote body-positive representation and challenge narrow beauty standards. This shift built on earlier , extending to campaigns featuring diverse body types by 2019. The Collection's impact on broader includes popularizing logo-free luxury, where subtle branding and pure democratized high-end accessibility without overt status symbols, and advancing body-positive ideals through inclusive imagery that redefined sensuality beyond conventional norms.

Business and Operations

Licensing Agreements

PVH Corp. acquired full ownership of Calvin Klein, Inc. in 2003, establishing the Calvin Klein Collection as an in-house premium ready-to-wear line exempt from broad licensing arrangements to ensure tight control over its luxury aesthetic and quality standards. This direct oversight enables premium pricing and strategic brand alignment, distinguishing the Collection from licensed extensions and contributing to PVH's overall revenue of $9.2 billion in 2023. To expand into ancillary categories without diluting the core luxury focus, PVH has selectively licensed specific product lines. In June 2019, Calvin Klein, Inc. entered a five-year licensing agreement with G-III Apparel Group, Ltd. for the design, production, and wholesale distribution of women's Calvin Klein Jeans collections in the United States and Canada, with the first products launching in spring 2020. In August 2020, a global license for watches and jewelry was awarded to Movado Group, Inc., effective January 2022 for an initial five-year term, allowing Movado to develop and market Swiss-made timepieces and complementary jewelry under the Calvin Klein name. More recently, in September 2023, Revman secured a license through 2028 for home textiles—including bedding, bath, and accessories—in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, with the debut collection planned for spring 2024 across major retail channels. Prior licensing structures included key partnerships that PVH later consolidated. The held the perpetual license for underwear until PVH acquired Warnaco in February 2013, integrating the category in-house to unify brand operations. Similarly, CK21 Holdings Pte. Ltd. managed accessories for the Platinum sub-label until PVH reacquired the license in September 2015, assuming direct production and sales responsibility, including select stores, to strengthen global brand consistency. In recent years, PVH has shifted toward in-sourcing select categories to preserve luxury integrity, exemplified by the November 2022 extension of licenses with G-III as part of a multi-year transition to internalize core apparel and accessories operations for Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. In June 2025, G-III filed a $250 million breach of contract lawsuit against PVH in New York state court, alleging violations related to the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger women's apparel wholesale licenses amid the transition. This approach balances revenue diversification through targeted partnerships with enhanced control over the Calvin Klein Collection's premium positioning.

Production and Manufacturing

The production of Calvin Klein Collection garments has primarily occurred in Italy and other select European facilities since the line's inception in the mid-1990s, utilizing high-end fabrics such as and cashmere to uphold the brand's luxury positioning. Italian manufacturer Vestimenta SpA held the worldwide for production from 2003 until its bankruptcy in 2005, after which Fingen SpA of assumed responsibility, ensuring continued emphasis on European craftsmanship for premium materials and construction. This regional focus allows for specialized handling of delicate textiles, with many pieces explicitly labeled "" to signify quality and artisanal techniques. Under , the parent company since 2003, Calvin Klein Collection benefits from a globally managed that integrates ethical sourcing and rigorous oversight. PVH's corporate responsibility framework includes third-party audits of suppliers to verify compliance with social and environmental standards, with 92% of eligible suppliers assessed as of 2024 through programs like the Corporate Responsibility Social Assessment. Initiatives such as the Forward Fashion strategy, launched in , prioritize sustainable materials—like responsibly sourced and viscose—and extend to the luxury line, promoting transparency and reduced environmental impact across production. The brand employs a small-batch production model to maintain exclusivity and align with its high-end ethos, producing limited quantities that contrast sharply with the mass-market volumes of Calvin Klein's core lines. This approach minimizes overproduction while allowing for precise attention to detail in fit and finishing, often resulting in seasonal collections with fewer units per style to preserve desirability. Technological advancements, including 3D design tools implemented by PVH around 2018, enhance prototyping efficiency and fit accuracy, reducing physical samples and supporting sustainable practices in garment development. During the , production challenges included navigating global shifts in costs and quality demands, prompting a reinforcement of European-based operations for the Collection to meet premium standards, even as broader lines expanded in . This strategic emphasis on European facilities helped address issues like labor cost fluctuations and ensured consistent luxury output amid evolving dynamics.

Retail and Distribution

Store Locations and Formats

The Calvin Klein Collection flagship store opened in at 654 Madison Avenue in , spanning 22,000 square feet across four stories and exemplifying the brand's commitment to stark through architect John Pawson's design. The interior featured soaring 30-foot glass panes for abundant natural light, gray York stone flooring, and gallery-like white walls with clean lines and angular furnishings, creating an uncluttered gallery space that prioritized the clothing as the focal point rather than traditional retail displays. This approach departed from conventional retail norms by eliminating display windows and racks, instead using streamlined passageways and minimal benches to evoke a sense of serene exploration aligned with the brand's aesthetic philosophy. The store remained operational until its closure in spring 2019, marking the end of the line's physical retail presence amid broader business shifts. At its peak in the , Calvin Klein Collection operated 27 stores worldwide, reflecting aggressive global expansion into key luxury markets. Notable locations included flagship boutiques in (opened 1997 at 10,000 square feet on New ), (at 53 since 1997), and , each designed to immerse customers in the brand's minimalist ethos while catering to high-end clientele. These stores emphasized experiential retail formats, incorporating custom fixtures, integrated display elements reminiscent of presentations, and expansive white spaces to highlight collections without overwhelming visual noise. Following a series of closures starting post-2010, the network dwindled significantly, with most international outposts shuttered due to profitability challenges, leaving only the flagship by 2019. These reductions were part of the line's eventual discontinuation, though brief references to hiatus impacts appear in broader operational histories. In parallel, the brand maintained visibility through partnerships with luxury department stores, such as dedicated Collection sections at , where exclusive womenswear and menswear were showcased alongside custom merchandising to appeal to discerning shoppers. Throughout its run, store designs consistently utilized white space, natural light via large glass elements, and subtle integrations of runway-inspired fixtures—like elevated platforms and linear shelving—to reinforce the brand's philosophy of elegant restraint and sensory immersion. This format not only elevated the luxury shopping experience but also served as a physical extension of the Collection's innovations.

Global Market Presence

Calvin Klein Collection expanded internationally in the mid-1990s, focusing on wholesale distribution and stores to establish a foothold in key luxury markets. In 1996, the brand announced plans to open Collection stores across , including the U.K., and in , with leases signed to support this growth through direct retail and wholesale partnerships. Wholesale channels were instrumental in this entry, supplying high-end collections to prestigious department stores such as in for and in for , enabling broader accessibility without immediate reliance on owned retail. By 2015, the Calvin Klein brand, encompassing the Collection line, contributed substantially to 's global revenue, with international markets accounting for approximately 45% of the company's total sales, underscoring the line's role in luxury segment growth. The brand launched capabilities on calvinklein.com in 2008, with subsequent expansions around 2010 incorporating exclusives from the Collection line to enhance digital distribution in and select international regions. By 2018, represented a core market, generating over $1 billion in revenues, while Asia contributed through robust growth in and other areas, supported by strategies like pop-up activations, including a 2016 collaboration in . Following the 2019 discontinuation of the Collection line, PVH shifted distribution to multi-brand luxury platforms to sustain brand visibility during the hiatus, with retailers like Net-a-Porter continuing to feature remaining Collection inventory and select pieces through 2024. With the relaunch of the Collection line in 2024 under Veronica Leoni, the brand has resumed physical retail presence through new stores embodying its minimalist aesthetic. These include a at 44 Avenue des in , opened in June 2024; the global in at 4-31-10 Jingumae, opened in August 2025; and a planned store at 530 Broadway in , expected by the end of 2025. These locations feature the Collection line alongside other luxury offerings, enhancing global accessibility via direct and wholesale channels.

Advertising and Campaigns

Evolution of Marketing Strategies

The introduction of Calvin Klein Collection in integrated runway shows into the promotional framework, with seasonal presentations at serving as key events to position the line as a alternative to European couture, emphasizing understated elegance and broad appeal over . This shift amplified media coverage and buyer interest, establishing the Collection as a cornerstone of the brand's high-end identity. Entering the 2010s, Calvin Klein pivoted to digital platforms, leveraging for teaser campaigns that previewed seasonal collections and encouraged . Celebrity endorsements amplified the Collection's luxury allure through viral endorsements that blended cachet with everyday relatability. Following the 2024 revival under creative director Veronica Leoni, marketing strategies emphasized a return to presentations, with the Fall 2025 show in New York highlighting monumental to reestablish the line's prestige in luxury fashion. These events, combined with digital teasers and media coverage, focused on contemporary ease and unadorned elegance to engage global audiences.

Iconic Advertisements and Controversies

Calvin Klein Collection's campaigns have often drawn from the brand's broader provocative aesthetic, though specific controversies tied directly to the line are limited. The line's marketing has historically emphasized clean lines and sensuality through runway imagery and editorial features in high-fashion publications. During ' tenure starting in 2016, campaigns incorporated youthful, gender-fluid elements, infusing the Collection with innovative visuals that pushed boundaries in luxury advertising. Over decades, Calvin Klein Collection's promotional efforts have contributed to the brand's cultural legacy, including advancements in body diversity and LGBTQ+ representation in luxury fashion contexts. By featuring diverse models in sensual, inclusive narratives, these initiatives challenged industry norms and promoted broader acceptance.

Revival and Contemporary Era

Discontinuation and Hiatus

In March 2019, , the parent company of , announced the discontinuation of the Calvin Klein Collection ready-to-wear line, effective immediately following the departure of in December 2018. The decision was part of a broader strategic refocus on the brand's core mass-market categories, such as , , and fragrances, to enhance profitability and streamline operations. This restructuring, initiated in January 2019, was projected to incur pre-tax charges of approximately $120 million over the following 12 months, covering severance, inventory markdowns, and related expenses. The closure led to the shutdown of all dedicated Calvin Klein Collection stores worldwide, including the flagship location at 654 Madison Avenue in New York, with physical retail presence for the line reduced to zero by the end of 2020. Remaining inventory was transitioned to online sales channels, allowing for clearance without new production or runway presentations. This shift marked the end of the line's high-end designer operations, which had struggled to resonate with consumers under Simons' vision, contributing to broader financial pressures at PVH. Financially, the Collection line's performance had declined in the lead-up to closure, with PVH citing underperformance and elevated costs as key factors in the decision to prioritize more profitable segments. Overall, Calvin Klein's third-quarter 2018 fell to $121 million from $142 million the prior year, largely due to investments in the upscale Collection business that did not yield expected returns. During the 2019–2024 hiatus, the Calvin Klein brand was sustained through its diffusion lines, such as Jeans and Underwear, alongside ongoing licensing agreements for accessories and home goods, without any new designs or collections under the luxury banner. PVH conducted internal assessments from 2020 to 2023 as part of its PVH+ strategic growth plan, evaluating the potential for reviving the luxury segment amid shifting market dynamics and consumer preferences. These reviews ultimately informed the decision to relaunch the line in 2024.

Relaunch Under Veronica Leoni

In May 2024, Calvin Klein announced the relaunch of its Collection line, appointing Italian designer Veronica Leoni as for women's, men's, and accessories collections, marking the brand's return to high-end runway presentations after a six-year hiatus. Leoni's debut Fall 2025 collection was unveiled on February 7, 2025, during at ’s longtime global headquarters at 205 West 39th Street in New York City's Garment District, embodying "monumental " through tailored silhouettes and elegant simplicity. The collection emphasized unadorned purity and radical tailoring, drawing on American heritage with elements like oversized coats, fluid trousers, and structured suiting in neutral palettes of , off-white, and , while incorporating subtle nods to the brand's historical ethos without relying on direct archival reproductions. To promote the relaunch, Calvin Klein launched Fall 2025 campaigns featuring global ambassadors Rosalía and Jung Kook, highlighting sensual undertones through intimate, minimalist imagery that captured the collection's blend of liberation and sophistication. The collection received positive early reception for reviving the brand's 1990s minimalist spirit with contemporary refinement, praised for its focus on enduring, versatile pieces that resonate with modern luxury consumers. Building on this momentum, Leoni's Spring 2026 collection, shown in September 2025, expanded into accessories such as structured minaudières and refined leather goods, further integrating them into the line's core wardrobe essentials. As of November 2025, the relaunch continued to show strong momentum, with Calvin Klein reporting a 5% year-on-year revenue increase to $980 million in Q2 2025 and launching a Holiday 2025 campaign featuring Jung Kook on October 28, 2025.

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  44. https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/calvin-klein-history/
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  46. https://www.giii.com/blogs/news/pvh-corp-and-g-iii-apparel-group-ltd-announce-license-agreement-for-calvin-klein-jeans-womens-jeanswear-collections-in-u-s-and-canada
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  50. https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/calvin-klein-inc-reacquired-accessories-license-calvin-klein-platinum-10210639/
  51. https://www.pvh.com/news/press-releases/PVH-Corp-Extends-Licenses-With-GIII-Apparel-Group-Ltd-as-Part-of-a-MultiYear-Transition-to-Bring-Cor
  52. https://wwd.com/business-news/legal/pvh-giii-lawsuit-calvin-klein-tommy-hilfiger-1237988298/
  53. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/by-whom-where-are-calvin-klein-collection-suits-made.281836/
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