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Tempe Butte
Tempe Butte
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Tempe Butte c1870.

Key Information

Looking down on downtown Tempe from the butte.

Tempe Butte (O'odham: ʼOidbaḍ Doʼag) is the official name of an andesite butte of volcanic origin, located partially on Arizona State University's Tempe campus in Tempe, Arizona. It is often referred to by locals as A Mountain, after the 60-foot-tall (18 m) gold-painted letter 'A' near the top. Another name for the area, used by the City of Tempe, is Hayden Butte.

The highest point of Tempe Butte stands at 1,495 feet (456 m) in elevation, while its base is at approximately 1,150 feet (350 m) in elevation.

Tempe Butte is most often seen as the backdrop to games held in Mountain America Stadium (historically Sun Devil Stadium).

Geography

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Originally, Tempe Butte was part of a series of horizontal layers, but the strata have been tilted, associated with the formation of South Mountain, and millennia of erosion has created the distinctive hogback of resistant andesite, over sedimentary deposits and rhyolite beds.

Despite intensive development, the butte and its immediate surroundings continue to support a variety of native vegetation, including saguaro, buckhorn cholla, barrel cactus, creosote bush, wolfberry, mormon tea, sweetbush, desert lavender, California buckwheat, catclaw acacia, palo verde and mesquite. Springtime annuals include Coulter's and Arizona lupine (Lupinus sparsiflorus and Lupinus arizonicus), Coulter's globemallow (Sphaeralcea coulteri), popcorn flowers (Cryptantha), fiddlenecks (Amsinckia), heliotropes (Phacelia), blonde plantain (Plantago ovata) and others. During the summer wild buckwheat (Eriogonum deflexum) blooms, leaving behind a "skeleton" in the fall. The five-winged spiderling (Boerhavia intermedia) then becomes the dominant annual on this preserve and in neighboring Tempe. Native wildlife include jackrabbits, and small desert-adapted species such as pack rats.

History

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Signs of early habitation by the Hohokam people have been found on Tempe Butte, including petroglyphs, pot shards, scrapers, and metate. "'Oidbaḍ Doʼag," the name used by the local Native Americans, means "Dead Field Mountain."[3]

The area just west of the butte would be settled by the 1870s in an area first known as Hayden's Ferry, then a major crossing for the Salt River which flows just north of the butte. The proximity of the community to the butte prompted Darrell Duppa to fancifully compare the area to the Vale of Tempe near Mount Olympus in Greece; therefore, the town was given its present name. The remains of the Hayden Flour Mill (which lends its name to main thoroughfare Mill Avenue) still stand near the western edge of the butte.

More recent alterations include two water tanks on the south flank of the butte, and several trails, at least one paved, to provide access to man-made structures. The east side of the butte was partially excavated in order to accommodate the construction of Sun Devil Stadium in 1958. A 50-foot-tall (15 m) radio tower was built on the top of the mountain in 1962 for the Salt River Project.[1]

In 1961, the City Council changed the mountain's name to "Hayden Butte," honoring early settler Charles T. Hayden (1825–1900) and his son, U.S. Senator Carl Hayden (1877–1972).[4] The U.S. Geological Survey, however, continued to use the former name, "Tempe Butte."[4][5]

In 1965, Arizona State University installed a concrete letter 'A' on the butte.[3] The City of Tempe designated the area a "preserve" in 2002.[3]

In May 2019 all towers and related materials were removed permanently by the city of Tempe.[6] Recent development along the adjacent stretch of the Salt River (which has been dammed to form Tempe Town Lake) has prompted several grassroots movements to preserve the butte from further environmental damage.[7]

Capital "A"

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Originally, the letter on Tempe Butte was an 'N', built by Tempe Normal School's class of 1918. The school changed its name to Tempe State Teacher's College in 1925, and the 'N' was adapted into a 'T'. Subsequently, three years later, the school would change its name again to Arizona State Teacher's College. It wasn't until 1938 that an “A” first appeared. It was formed from loose rocks and soon after, the fall ritual of whitewashing the "A" began. In 1952, vandals with dynamite completely destroyed the "A." The latest "A," made of reinforced steel and poured concrete, was built in 1955. It is 60 feet from its base to its top.[8]

Due to the existence of an "A Mountain" for the University of Arizona (Sentinel Peak) which predates the "A" on Tempe Butte, students from these rival schools often attempt to paint the other's 'A' in their school colors. Guarding the A is an annual ritual in the week leading up to the annual ASU-UA football game, the Territorial Cup. The A has been painted in other colors for various causes, and is painted white at the beginning of each school year, but is usually painted Gold, one of ASU's school colors. Most recently, UA students painted the A red and blue in November 2014, three weeks prior to their rivalry game.[9] The A has also been painted colors by other schools, such as green by Oregon Ducks fans and purple by Grand Canyon University fans.[citation needed]

References

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from Grokipedia
Tempe Butte, also known as A Mountain or Hayden Butte, is an of volcanic origin located partially on the in . The rises to an of 1,499 feet (457 m) with 329 feet (100 m) of prominence above its surrounding terrain. It serves as a defining landmark for the city and university, marked by a large white "A" painted on its southwest face since 1918 by ASU students to symbolize , which is repainted after the first home football victory each season. The site features over 500 petroglyphs dating to prehistoric times and is regarded as sacred by the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community, with human occupation tracing back to at least the 1400s. Geologically, its gray, to aphanitic rocks formed around 18 million years ago through volcanic activity, contributing to the unique pediment landscape of the Phoenix Basin. Now preserved as Hayden Butte Preserve Park, it offers hiking trails amid desert fauna and supports the area's ecological and historical significance without major documented controversies.

Geology and Physical Features

Geological Formation and Composition

Tempe Butte consists primarily of lava flows from Miocene-era , forming a resistant cap that overlies sedimentary rocks such as the Bidahochi Formation and related deposits. The , an intermediate-composition extrusive , intruded and extruded through local fissures amid regional volcanic activity approximately 17.6 ± 0.4 million years ago, as determined by of the flows. These volcanic rocks represent subaerial eruptions that buried underlying sediments, with the preserving a remnant of this ancient volcanic landscape after differential removed surrounding softer materials. The sedimentary base beneath the volcanic cap includes interbedded ash falls, initially of rhyolitic composition, deposited on mudflats prior to the main andesitic flows, followed by deposits containing rhyolite fragments. This sequence indicates episodic , where explosive ash events preceded more effusive extrusion, with lava flows predating or contemporaneous with some but ultimately capping the structure. The 's , featuring and phenocrysts in a fine-grained groundmass, reflects differentiation in a subduction-related tectonic setting during the , though the exact source vents are eroded away. Tectonic processes, including extension and later Basin and Range faulting, contributed to the butte's exposure, but its prominent form results largely from erosional resistance of the volcanic cap rather than a distinct or plug morphology. Uplift associated with doming of the adjacent South Mountains tilted the strata, exposing and accentuating the butte's structure through differential , where the harder withstands better than the underlying tilted sediments. This combination of volcanic emplacement and post-volcanic defines the butte as a fault-bounded erosional remnant within the Phoenix Basin.

Topography and Surrounding Landscape

Tempe Butte rises to a summit elevation of 1,495 feet (456 m) above , with its base situated at approximately 1,150 feet (350 m), resulting in a prominence of about 300 to 350 feet above the adjacent and Tempe. The butte's topography is defined by steep slopes ascending from the surrounding flatlands, forming a classic isolated hill with a relatively level top and exposed rocky outcrops along its flanks. The landscape immediately encircling Tempe Butte consists of urban development in , including the campus to the west and residential-commercial areas to the north and east. To the north lies , an artificial body of water created in 1999 by damming the Salt River, which historically flowed adjacent to the butte's base and influenced its erosional shaping into a prominent local landmark. This juxtaposition of the butte's rugged elevation against the low-lying, developed valley floor underscores its role as a visually dominant feature in the Phoenix metropolitan area's southeastern edge.

Prehistoric and Indigenous Significance

Archaeological Evidence and Petroglyphs

Archaeological surveys have identified over 500 petroglyphs on Tempe Butte, created by removing the dark from basalt rock surfaces through pecking techniques, with the majority dated to the culture between approximately AD 750 and 1450 based on stylistic associations and contextual evidence from regional Hohokam sites. These petroglyphs exhibit both geometric motifs, such as spirals, zigzags, and lines, and figurative elements including animals (e.g., quadrupeds resembling deer or ), figures, and rare forms like double-crenelated "" shapes linked to Hohokam material culture. Detailed recording efforts, such as those by archaeologists Larry Loendorf and Chris Loendorf in the , have cataloged panels on specific outcrops, including Panel 1 on Outcrop 31 along the north side, where contrasting light-colored rock highlights the etched designs despite reformation. These sites provide of prehistoric activity on the , potentially linked to ceremonial or observational functions given their placement on elevated, visible rock faces, though direct artifact associations remain limited due to and prior disturbances. Petroglyph preservation has been impacted by natural processes, including that erodes edges and reforms over pecking scars, reducing motif clarity over centuries, as observed in comparative analyses of exposed versus sheltered panels. Urban development in the surrounding area has further disturbed associated archaeological deposits, such as scattered sherds and lithic tools, underscoring the challenges in verifying habitation extent solely from surface evidence.

Cultural Role for Native Peoples

Tempe Butte, designated Oidbaḍ Do'ag by the and Xwe Nyakuuly by the Piipaash, is acknowledged as a by these groups, reflecting its role in their ancestral heritage within the . The Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community, composed of and Xalchidom Piipaash descendants, identifies the butte specifically as a sacred site serving as a tangible link to ancestors, embedded in oral histories that emphasize the landscape's embodiment of core cultural values. As oral tradition-based societies, the and Piipaash document the butte's significance through communal narratives rather than written records, underscoring its place in broader territorial homelands spanning modern Tempe's boundaries. Documented uses center on the butte's prominence as a in seasonal migrations and resource-oriented activities along the Salt River corridor, with limited archaeological evidence of settlements indicating primarily non-residential functions such as vantage points or periodic gatherings rather than sustained habitation. This intermittent engagement aligns with the butte's , supporting roles in or short-term cultural practices tied to the surrounding desert ecosystem, as inferred from tribal land acknowledgements and regional indigenous patterns. Recognition of these attributes has facilitated preservation efforts benefiting tangible heritage, though it has surfaced tensions between maintaining public recreational access and tribal assertions of cultural priority.

Historical Development

Early European Use and Quarrying

Quarrying on Tempe Butte began in , with operations established on both the north and south sides of the formation to extract for regional . The primary application of the quarried rock was in building railroad beds, supporting the rapid expansion of rail networks across during the late , which accelerated economic development by connecting remote areas to markets and settlements. Smaller quantities of the stone were directed toward local construction, notably providing trim material for the Old Main building at the Territorial (predecessor to ), completed in 1898. This extraction exemplified resource-driven priorities of the era, converting the butte's geological assets into foundational elements of territorial progress without documented regard for long-term landscape preservation. Remnants of the endure on the northwest foot, attesting to the scale of early interventions.

20th-Century Transformations

In the early , Tempe established its first municipal water reservoir on the , with the foundation remnants persisting near the summit as evidence of early infrastructural adaptation to local water needs. Concurrently, the construction of upstream dams on the Salt River—starting with Roosevelt Dam in 1911 and followed by additional dams managed by the through the mid-century—diverted flows for agriculture and flood control, rendering the adjacent river channel periodically dry and fundamentally altering the butte's surrounding hydrology from a riparian-influenced environment to a desert arroyo. Mid-century urban expansion in Tempe, driven by and the enlargement of Arizona State University's campus immediately to the west, enveloped the butte within the city's developing fabric, transforming it from an isolated landmark to a central feature amid residential, commercial, and educational infrastructure. This proximity intensified land-use pressures, prompting local advocacy to maintain the site's natural state; in 1973, the City of Tempe designated the butte as a public park to preclude further construction and preserve its prominence against encroaching development. Later in the century, communication towers were erected on the summit to support wireless networks, including those for public safety, transit, and commercial services, representing a key infrastructural overlay on the landscape. The decade's end brought the most direct hydrological reversal with the 1999 formation of through inflatable rubber dams spanning the Salt River bed adjacent to the , reintroducing perennial water flows after decades of aridity and reshaping the immediate environmental context with new recreational and visual elements.

Association with Arizona State University

Origin and Maintenance of the "A" Monument

The tradition of placing a large letter on Tempe Butte began in 1918 when students from Tempe Normal School, the predecessor to Arizona State University, constructed an initial "N" using rocks on the butte's western slope to represent the school's name. Following the institution's renaming to Tempe State Teachers College in 1925, the letter was updated to a "T," and in 1938, after becoming Arizona State Teachers College, it was changed to the current "A" form, initially assembled from loose rocks and periodically whitewashed by students. This evolution marked the monument as a symbol of the school's growing identity and student achievement. The "A" stands approximately 60 feet tall and covers about 20 by 20 feet at its base. In , it received its first gold paint application, aligning with ASU's colors, and by 1955, it was rebuilt using reinforced and to enhance durability against . These upgrades shifted it from a temporary rock arrangement to a more permanent fixture, reducing erosion-related maintenance needs while preserving its visibility from downtown Tempe and the ASU campus. Ongoing maintenance is primarily student-led, with incoming freshmen annually hiking to the site during welcome week to hand-apply white paint, symbolizing renewal for the academic year before it is repainted gold. University groups, such as historical societies, conduct periodic cleanings and touch-ups to sustain its condition, reflecting continued institutional commitment to this emblem of academic heritage. The practice emphasizes hands-on participation, fostering a and pride among ASU affiliates.

Role in University Traditions and Rivalries

The "A" monument on Tempe Butte has become a central symbol in the athletic rivalry between Arizona State University (ASU) and the University of Arizona (UofA), particularly through repeated attempts by UofA students to repaint it in their red and blue colors, which ASU students counter by restoring it to gold. This competitive tradition dates back over 50 years, with UofA incursions often timed around key matchups like the Territorial Cup football game or basketball contests. Documented instances include a November 2022 vandalism ahead of the football rivalry, where the "A" was covered in UofA colors, prompting immediate ASU reclamation efforts; a February 2024 repainting to blue hours after UofA's basketball win over ASU; and a November 2013 early-season strike that led to ASU Student Alumni Association guards being posted for defense. ASU responses typically involve organized repaints following victories, such as restoring the gold hue post-rivalry wins to mark dominance and sustain campus morale, a practice that has occurred multiple times annually during peak rivalry seasons. These events reinforce historical continuity in the "Duel in the Desert" rivalry, which originated in , by channeling competitive energy into visible acts of . However, the climbs required for access pose risks, including falls on steep , while the use of paint constitutes criminal mischief under Tempe ordinances, with past cases involving evidence like discarded cans traced to Tucson purchases. While these traditions demonstrably heighten and engagement—evident in student mobilization and media coverage—they also result in property defacement, with Tempe police classifying such acts as despite limited enforcement due to their repetitive, low-harm nature. No arrests were reported in the 2022 or 2024 incidents, but earlier efforts, like 2014 investigations, highlighted potential charges for repeated offenses.

Preservation and Management

Designation as a Preserve

In 2002, the City of Tempe officially designated Hayden Butte—also known as Tempe Butte—as its first municipal preserve, citing the site's substantial historical resources, archaeological artifacts including petroglyphs, and ecological features such as native vegetation and wildlife habitats. This status built upon its prior recognition as a public park in 1973, formalizing protections to safeguard the 1,500-foot from encroachment amid urban expansion in the . The preserve designation effectively halted potential future development on the approximately 120-acre site, which had previously faced quarrying pressures in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, thereby preserving its geological integrity and cultural landmarks like the Arizona State University "A" monument installed in 1965. Complementary efforts advanced in 2008, when city staff recommended and the Development Review Commission approved its listing on the Tempe Historic Property Register, emphasizing criteria such as association with significant historical events and prehistoric habitation by indigenous groups. These administrative measures prioritized long-term conservation over commercial or infrastructural uses, successfully averting scenarios like expanded water infrastructure or private development that could have altered the landscape. However, the regulatory framework has drawn scrutiny for potentially imposing overly restrictive protocols that limit practical public engagement, such as formalized access protocols that may deter informal visitation despite the site's role in community traditions. Preservation advocates argue this balance favors ecological stasis at the expense of adaptive use, though city processes continue to weigh such trade-offs against verifiable threats like erosion.

Recent Management Plans and Initiatives

The Hayden Butte and Papago Park Preserve Management Plan, adopted by the Tempe City Council in April 2025, documents current conditions in the preserves and outlines recommendations for habitat restoration, control, and safeguarding cultural resources such as petroglyphs. The plan emphasizes evidence-based strategies derived from site assessments, prioritizing erosion mitigation and enhancement while limiting new to avoid further disturbance. Developed through public feedback processes initiated in November 2024, it incorporates community priorities like trail maintenance alongside conservation goals, reflecting trade-offs where expanded access risks increased wear on sensitive areas. Prior initiatives under evolving management frameworks include the deconstruction of the Hayden Butte communication tower in May 2019, which eliminated an obsolete structure to reduce visual and ecological impacts on the preserve's ridgeline. abatement efforts, such as the September operation on Tempe Butte, employed non-abrasive chemicals and soft brushes to remove without harming underlying petroglyphs, at a cost reflecting the labor-intensive nature of protecting archaeological features. These actions demonstrate practical implementation challenges, with removal processes requiring weeks of preparation to balance efficacy and site integrity. Stakeholders diverge on enforcement: preservation groups advocate heightened restrictions, citing vandalism's recurrence and trail data from prior years, while recreation proponents favor sustained opportunities, as evidenced in 2024-2025 feedback surveys where conservation concerns competed with demands for . The 2025 plan addresses this by proposing monitored access zones and periodic monitoring metrics, though early outcomes remain pending full rollout as of October 2025.

Access, Recreation, and Challenges

Trails, Hiking, and Public Access

The primary access route to the summit of Tempe Butte, also known as Hayden Butte or "A" Mountain, follows the 'A' Mountain Hayden Butte Trail, a 0.8-mile out-and-back path classified as moderate difficulty with an elevation gain of 285 feet, typically completed in 30 to 60 minutes. An adjacent option, the Leonard Monti Trail, provides a comparable 0.9-mile ascent gaining 232 feet, both featuring constructed steps and handrails in steeper sections to aid climbers. These maintained trails culminate at viewpoints offering unobstructed panoramas of downtown Tempe, Arizona State University campus, the Salt River, and distant features like Camelback Mountain. Hayden Butte Preserve operates as a free public facility open daily from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., with no admission fees or permits required for entry. Its position in central Tempe, immediately adjacent to urban infrastructure and the , facilitates easy and vehicular approach, enabling frequent use by residents, ASU students, and tourists without extensive travel. The site draws thousands of annual visitors for short-duration hikes that promote in a densely developed area, with peak activity during cooler morning or evening hours and sunsets. User-submitted data from hiking platforms reflect sustained demand, including over 1,600 reviews averaging 4.5 stars for the main trail, underscoring its role in providing accessible cardiovascular exercise and mental refreshment via elevated perspectives.

Vandalism, Damage, and Environmental Impacts

Vandalism on Hayden Butte, also known as Tempe Butte or "A" Mountain, has primarily targeted its ancient petroglyphs and rock surfaces, with often overlying or obscuring Hohokam-era . In , reports documented both deliberate and unintentional abrasion from hikers venturing off designated trails, which eroded the on petroglyphs, rendering some images irreparably faint. Similar incidents persisted, culminating in 2020 when city crews removed extensive using chemical cleaners and brushes, incurring over $10,000 in costs while attempting to avoid further substrate damage to the site's estimated 500 petroglyphs. More recent acts include the August 2025 vandalism in the adjacent Preserve, where a 10-foot blue-circled was spray-painted on a , echoing patterns of defacement seen on Hayden Butte itself; removal efforts, likely involving to preserve rock integrity, were projected to cost several thousand dollars. Annual restoration of petroglyphs on Hayden Butte has averaged up to $20,000 for the City of Tempe, highlighting the recurrent financial burden of such acts, though cleaning methods like "elephant snot" gels can mitigate but not fully reverse overpainting on fragile . Off-trail hiking contributes to broader , accelerating on the butte's steep slopes and disrupting native desert such as cacti and brittlebrush, while compacting soil and promoting establishment. Heat retention in eroded areas exacerbates risks to local , including reptiles and small mammals, by altering microhabitats; empirical assessments in Tempe's preserve plans note measurable trail widening and vegetation loss from foot traffic, with some recovery possible through natural revegetation but permanent scarring on exposed rock faces. Debates over access balance these harms against recreational value, with Native American advocates, citing irreversible as cultural loss, pushing for stricter and viewing limits, while hikers argue public lands should prioritize health benefits like cardiovascular exercise amid —though from site monitoring indicates degradation outweighs reversible gains without intervention. Proponents of contend that controlled use fosters , yet evidence from repeated cycles suggests gaps enable permanent ecological shifts, such as heightened runoff and decline, underscoring causal links between unregulated visitation and site instability.

References

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