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Devil's Bit
Devil's Bit
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The Devil's Bit or Devil's Bit Mountain (Irish: Bearnán Éile, meaning 'little gapped hill of Éile', historically anglicized as 'Barnane Ely')[2] is a large hill in County Tipperary, Ireland, which rises to 480 metres (1,570 ft). It lies north-west of the town of Templemore. The mountain is usually climbed through the townland of Barnane. There is a car park at the base.

Key Information

History

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The mountain was historically called Sliabh Aildiúin[1] and Irish: Bearnán Éile, meaning 'little gapped hill of Éile', after the territory of Éile. According to local legend, the mountain got its current name because the devil took a bite out of it. There is a small gap in the mountain between one outcrop of rock (known as the Rock) and another small plateau. The legend says that the devil broke his teeth taking this bite and spat the Rock of Cashel from his mouth to where it now stands.

Historically, Devil's Bit was one of the hills around Ireland that were climbed as part of the Lughnasa festival.[1]

The Book of Dimma was supposedly discovered in a cave on the mountain in 1789. It is an illuminated manuscript copy of the four Gospels and was written in the monastery of St. Cronan in Roscrea some time during the 8th century. According to legend, Cronan ordered his scribe Dimma to produce the manuscript before sunset on that day. He then used miraculous powers to ensure that the sun did not set for forty days, and Dimma spent all of this period completing the manuscript without feeling the need to eat or sleep.[3][4] The manuscript disappeared following the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century. There is some debate about whether or not the manuscript was actually found on the Devil's Bit amid claims that it could not have survived without damage in an outdoor environment for over two centuries.[5] The Book of Dimma is currently housed in the library of Trinity College Dublin.[6]

The mountain was the scene of a mass anti-tithe meeting on 25 July 1832. The meeting was part of a wider campaign of resistance to the payment of tithes (one-tenth of the value of arable produce) to the Church of Ireland by the majority Catholic population.[7] According to press reports of the time, over 50,000 people attended, many coming from as far away as County Galway, although the attendance would have been larger had there not been confusion about whether or not the meeting was cancelled.[8] Although local folklore states that Daniel O' Connell attended the meeting, it is almost certain that he was not present as he was attending parliamentary debates in Westminster at the time. A semi-fictional account of the meeting was given by Samuel Lover in Legends and Stories of Ireland (1834), where he refers to a mock 'burial' of the tithes by local peasantry.[9]

The tower on the approach to the summit is known as Carden's Folly. The Cardens were an Anglo-Irish aristocratic family who arrived in Ireland during the seventeenth century. They purchased estates in Templemore and Barnane and became the principal landlords in the area in subsequent centuries. The most notable Carden was undoubtedly John Rutter Carden (1811–1866), better known as 'Woodcock', so-called by irate tenants because he was as difficult to shoot as the bird of that name. As well as constructing the folly, he built a magnificent family home on the lower slopes of the mountain. Although the house was demolished in the early 20th century, the ruins of the walled garden can still be seen. In 1854, 'Woodcock' made a notorious attempt to kidnap a lady, Eleanor Arbuthnot, with whom he had become obsessed. A detailed history of the Carden family has been published by a descendant, Arthur Eustace Carden.[10]

A cross was erected on the Rock in 1953–1954 in celebration of the 'Marian Year dedicated by the Roman Catholic Church. A committee was formed and planning of the work began in early 1953 and construction began in September of that year, it was constructed by the Duggan Brothers. The project manager was Stephen (Steedie) Grey of Templemore. Work was completed at a cost of approximately IR£2,000.[11] The cross was officially blessed by the Archbishop of Cashel and Emly, Most Rev. Dr. Jeremiah Kinane, on Sunday, 22 August 1954. It stands 45 feet high and has a span of 25 feet. The base of 340 tons is 5 feet squared and 10 feet deep. All tools and materials for this construction project were carried to the Rock by hand. The cross is presently illuminated at night. Holy Mass is celebrated at the base of the Rock each year on Rock Sunday, which is the closest Sunday to the feast of St James (25 July). A statue of the Virgin Mary was erected in 1988 on the eastern side of the Rock.

A 1980 article in the journal Nature described the finding on the mountain of the earliest record of a fossil flora containing Cooksonia-type sporangia.[12]

The Devil's Bit Mountain
Statue of the Virgin Mary
Carden's Folly
Cross on the summit

Topography

[edit]

The southwestern extremity of the Slieve Bloom range just touches Tipperary at Roscrea. The valley in which Roscrea stands separates this end of Slieve Bloom from the Devil's Bit range, which begins immediately south of the town and runs southwest. This mountain has a singular gap in its contour (very conspicuous from the railway), from which it was formerly called Barnane-Ely, i.e., the gapped mountain of Ely (the old territory in which it was situated), which is still the name of the parish. The other chief summits are Kilduff Mountain (1,462 feet; 445.6 m), Borrisnoe (1,471 feet; 448.4 m), and Benduff (1,399 feet; 426.4 m), all near Devil's Bit in a line to the northwest; and 4 miles (6.4 km) southwest of Devil's Bit, Knockanora (1,429 feet; 435.6 m) and Latteragh (1,257 feet; 383.1 m).[13]

The Devil's Bit offers expansive views of the surrounding countryside. When the cross was erected, it was said that nine counties can be viewed from the summit – Tipperary itself, Clare, Cork, Galway, Kilkenny, Laois, Limerick, Offaly, and Waterford.[14] There is doubt as to whether any part of County Cork is actually visible. One can see the Knockmealdown and Comeragh Mountains in Waterford, along with the Galtees, and, to the north-west, Lough Derg and the River Shannon.[15]

The triangulation station which marks the highest point of the mountain is on the 'Long Rock' which lies to the east of the Gap. The Long Rock can be climbed if one passes through the Gap and follows the pathway to the right.

There is a military firing range on the western slopes of the mountain.

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
Devil's Bit (Irish: Bearnán Éile) is a mountain in , , situated approximately 12 kilometres northwest of and rising to an elevation of 480 metres (1,575 ft). The mountain features a distinctive gap at its summit, interpreted in local as the mark left by the devil biting into the rock, with the displaced portion said to have been spat out to form the Rock of Cashel some 30 kilometres to the south. This geological anomaly, combined with panoramic views across , makes it a recognizable landmark visible from considerable distances. The mountain is considered the source of the River Suir, which flows 183 kilometres eastward to join the Three Sisters rivers system. Popular for hiking loops such as the Devil's Bit Loop Walk, it offers accessible trails amid rolling countryside, though its modest height classifies it more as a prominent hill than a high peak. Historical associations include a reported mass meeting in 1832 against tithes and the 1789 discovery of the Dimma Book in a nearby cave, adding layers of cultural significance beyond its natural features.

Etymology and Folklore

Name Origin

The English name "Devil's Bit" originates from local , which attributes the mountain's prominent gap—separating its two main peaks—to a bite taken by the from the rocky summit. According to the , the , in a fit of rage or during a confrontation, bit into the mountain, creating the notch and either breaking his teeth or spitting out a portion of rock that formed the nearby approximately 20 miles (32 km) to the south. This folk etymology supplants the earlier Irish nomenclature, with the mountain historically known as Bearnán Éile, translating to "little gap of Éile" or "gap of Ely," referencing both the topographic feature and the ancient territory of Éile in north County Tipperary. The name Bearnán Éile underscores the gap's visibility as a defining characteristic, predating the devil legend's association with the English term, which likely emerged in the post-medieval period amid anglicization of place names and popularization of supernatural tales. Earlier references may include Sliabh Aildiúin, but primary documentation tying it directly to the site remains sparse in accessible records. The legend's persistence reflects broader Celtic mythological motifs of divine or demonic intervention shaping landscapes, though no supports a origin for the gap, which geological assessments attribute to natural erosion processes in the formations prevalent in the region. collections, such as those archived in Irish oral traditions, consistently link the "bite" motif to explanatory narratives for anomalous features, emphasizing cultural rather than literal causation.

The Devil's Bite Legend

The distinctive notch visible on the Devil's Bit mountain, located in , , is explained in local by a bite inflicted by the . According to the prevailing legend, the , enraged or pursued by during efforts to expel satanic influences from , took a massive bite from the mountain's summit, leaving behind the characteristic gap between the main hill and an adjacent outcrop. This act purportedly created teeth marks in the rock formation, with the bitten-out portion spat southward, landing roughly 20 miles (32 km) away to form the limestone outcrop known as the Rock of Cashel. Some variants of the tale emphasize the Devil's frustration or failed attempt to thwart Saint Patrick's Christianization of the region, portraying the bite as an impulsive that backfired when the Devil broke teeth on the unyielding stone—thus inspiring the English name "Devil's Bit" from the Irish Bearnán Éile, meaning "gap of the hostages" or similar topographic descriptors. The legend ties the mountain's altered profile directly to this event, underscoring themes of divine triumph over evil in Irish oral traditions. This narrative not only accounts for the Devil's Bit's eroded summit but also links it etiologically to the Rock of Cashel, a site central to Irish kingship and , where the displaced rock became a fortified center. While rooted in pre-Christian myths adapted to hagiographic purposes, the story persists in regional without empirical geological corroboration, reflecting folklore's role in interpreting natural features.

Geography

Location and Regional Context

The Devil's Bit is situated in , , approximately 5 kilometers northwest of the town of . This location places it within the province of , in the north-central part of the county, amid a landscape of rolling hills and farmland characteristic of Ireland's . The mountain's coordinates are roughly 52.8208° N, 7.9147° W, positioning it as a prominent feature visible from surrounding lowlands. Regionally, the Devil's Bit forms part of a range of hills known as the Devil's Bit Mountains, which extends northeastward and is regarded as an outlier of the broader Silvermine Mountains to the southwest. This positioning situates it between the Silvermine Mountains and the lowland gap toward , influencing local drainage patterns and providing elevated views over toward distant ranges like the . The surrounding area supports mixed agriculture and pastoral farming, with nearby settlements such as serving as key access points via regional roads like the R505. The region's and contribute to its role as a transitional feature between the central plain and upland areas, historically shaping settlement patterns in Eliogarty barony.

Topography and Elevation

The Devil's Bit is a prominent isolated hill in north County Tipperary, , rising to an elevation of 480 meters (1,575 feet) above at its . Its topographic profile features steep, grassy slopes ascending from the surrounding lowlands of the Irish midlands, with an average gradient that supports moderate to challenging ascents. The hill's most distinctive feature is a V-shaped notch on the eastern flank, approximately 100 meters deep, which creates a gap between the main plateau-like and an adjacent rocky , enhancing its visual prominence against the flat Tipperary plains. With a of 345 meters, the Devil's Bit stands in relative isolation, lacking connection to larger mountain ranges like the nearby Silvermine Mountains to the south, and it dominates the local skyline for views extending to the Galtee Mountains and Slieve Bloom range. The upper slopes transition from open grassland to scattered coniferous forestry in places, while the base integrates with agricultural fields, reflecting the hill's role as a in an otherwise gently rolling terrain averaging 100-200 meters in . This configuration contributes to rapid gain on approach routes, typically 300-400 meters over 2-3 kilometers from trailheads near .

Geological Features

The Devil's Bit consists primarily of (ORS), comprising sandstones and conglomerates deposited as flash flood sediments in terrestrial environments approximately 419–358 million years ago. Underlying rocks, including grey mudstones, siltstones, and sandstones from deep ocean deposits dated to around 425 million years ago, are exposed in the area due to erosion, forming an unconformable contact with the overlying ORS. The mountain belongs to the Devilsbit-Keeper Hill Inlier, a structural block surrounded by younger strata. Uplift of the region occurred during the between 380 and 280 million years ago, folding and elevating the sedimentary sequences into their current hill form. The prominent gap in the summit, a defining separating the main peak from adjacent outcrops, arises from differential erosion exploiting softer layers within the mass, rather than any singular cataclysmic event. Glacial action during the Pleistocene further modified the landscape, scouring surfaces and depositing sediments at lower elevations. The site, designated as County Geological Site TY026, exemplifies the stratigraphic transition from marine to continental facies and has been studied for its tectonic associations with the Zone. No significant mineralization or igneous intrusions are recorded, distinguishing it from more complex inliers nearby.

History

Early Human Use and Settlement

The region surrounding Devil's Bit in north County Tipperary demonstrates early medieval settlement patterns typical of , with the Camlin 3 site providing key archaeological evidence. Located on a ridge extending southwest from the Devil's Bit mountain range, approximately 3 km south of , Camlin 3 yielded 151 human burials during excavations associated with the M7 motorway scheme, dating to the 6th–10th centuries AD based on radiocarbon analysis and artifact typology. The featured unenclosed inhumations, some with like iron knives and beads, alongside evidence of contemporary settlement including ditches, post-holes, and hearths indicative of domestic activity on the east-facing slope. Poor bone preservation limited osteological details, but the site's proximity to the Devil's Bit range suggests the mountain's elevated terrain influenced nearby for , , and possibly defensive oversight. Direct evidence of prehistoric occupation on Devil's Bit itself remains elusive, likely due to the mountain's rocky limestone composition and steep gradients deterring permanent structures, though broader surveys indicate (c. 8000–4000 BC) and (c. 4000–2500 BC) activity in the lowlands via flint tools and megalithic tombs elsewhere in the county. The mountain's strategic height, reaching 480 m, implies potential prehistoric use for seasonal or signaling, but no verified artifacts or monuments confirm this. A on Devil's Bit's slopes attests to early Christian-era utilization, serving possibly as a hermitage or . In 1789, the Book of Dimma—an 8th-century containing the Gospels in Irish script—was reportedly discovered there by a local farmer, J. Pilsworth, before its transfer to . This find underscores the mountain's role in early monastic networks, aligning with Ireland's 5th–9th century transition from pagan to Christian practices amid sparse on high ground. Local traditions also record the hill's climbs during Lughnasa observances, pagan festivals adapted into Christian pattern days around late July, reflecting continuity of ritual use from .

Modern Developments and Infrastructure

In the latter half of the and into the 21st, the Devil's Bit area has experienced restrained infrastructural growth, prioritizing landscape preservation amid its role as a prominent regional . The Tipperary County Development Plan 2022–2028 explicitly recommends avoiding new infrastructure such as roads in sensitive upland zones like Devil's Bit to protect undeveloped vistas and ecological integrity. State forestry agency Coillte has developed modest recreational facilities in adjacent woodlands, including car parks, picnic areas, and maintained tracks supporting looped walking trails that extend toward the mountain's base. Primary access relies on the R501 regional road, with secondary local roads providing vehicular routes to trailheads and lower slopes; these networks have seen no major expansions since mid-20th-century rural road improvements. A notable exception is the October 2024 approval by An Bord Pleanála for a strategic : a nine-turbine proposed by Buirios Ltd in nearby townlands, featuring turbines up to 180 meters in tip height, new access tracks, a substation, and grid connections to harness from the upland terrain. Tipperary County Council raised objections during the process, citing risks to sightlines of the Devil's Bit's distinctive profile from key viewpoints. This development marks the most substantial modern alteration to the area's , contrasting with earlier proposals like a plan west of the mountain that did not proceed.

Cultural and Religious Significance

Summit Monuments and Religious Sites

A prominent concrete cross, known as the Devil's Bit Cross, crowns the summit of Devil's Bit Mountain at an elevation of approximately 480 meters, serving as a visible landmark from surrounding areas in County Tipperary. Erected as a religious monument, it attracts pilgrims and hikers who undertake the ascent via marked trails from nearby car parks. On the eastern flank of the summit rock, a of the Virgin Mary was installed in 1988, housed within a small grotto-like structure that draws visitors for and reflection. This Catholic devotional site complements the cross, reflecting the mountain's integration into local Christian traditions despite its pagan-derived name. These monuments underscore the site's in religious observance, with the and maintained as enduring symbols of amid the rugged terrain. No additional ancient religious structures, such as early monastic , have been documented on the , though the area's is noted in historical accounts of site repurposing.

Role in Local Traditions

The Devil's Bit features prominently in through a explaining the mountain's distinctive gap, known as the "bit," at its summit. According to local tradition, the , in a fit of rage—often while fleeing St. Patrick—bit into the mountain, removing a chunk that he then spat southward, forming the Rock of Cashel approximately 20 miles (32 km) away. Variations of the tale attribute the bite solely to the Devil's frustration without St. Patrick's involvement, emphasizing the gap as teeth marks left in the rock. Related stories extend the legend to nearby features, such as a supposed Devil's tooth embedded at Ballinlough near Toomevara, broken during the bite, and the Rock of Derryvella, claimed to be another fragment dropped en route to Cashel. These narratives, preserved in oral histories and collections from , underscore the mountain's role in explaining geological anomalies through supernatural causation, reflecting pre-Christian motifs of demonic interference blended with Christian elements like St. Patrick's exorcism. No documented ongoing customs or festivals directly tied to the legend persist in modern local practices, though the story remains a staple of regional .

Tourism and Recreation

Access and Hiking Trails

The primary access to Devil's Bit is via the Devil's Bit forest car park, located near Barnane village in , approximately 10 minutes' drive northwest of town along the R668 Templemore-Borrisoleigh road; follow signage for Barnane and Devil's Bit View to reach the free, spacious parking area suitable for over 20 vehicles. The site is at grid reference S 06128 73191 on Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series Sheet 59, with coordinates 52.80994° N, 7.90985° W. The Devil's Bit Loop is the principal marked trail, a moderate 3.7 km circuit with 200 m elevation gain, typically completed in 1.5 to 2 hours, traversing sandy laneways, forestry tracks, green roads, and hillside paths waymarked by purple arrows on a background. The route ascends gently through to encircle , offering views of the Galtee Mountains, Slieve Bloom, , and ranges in counties Laois and Galway, though dogs are prohibited and sections can become steep or slippery, necessitating sturdy walking boots even in dry conditions. A short optional spur from the loop leads to the at 479 m, adding about 30-40 minutes round-trip for the 1.2 km direct ascent from the car park, which involves tight, inclined paths requiring caution. Longer variants include the Carden's Folly and Devil's Bit Loop, a 4.5 km moderately challenging route incorporating historical folly ruins and extending summit access, averaging 1 hour 37 minutes, and the more demanding 13.5 km Kilduff Mountain loop via Carden's Folly, rated challenging with 4 hours 28 minutes duration for experienced hikers. These trails emphasize the area's forested slopes and open vistas but lack formal links, making private vehicles essential for entry.

Scenic Attractions and Views

The summit of Devil's Bit Mountain, reaching 480 meters in elevation, offers panoramic vistas across central Ireland, including the Tipperary lowlands and horizons extending to counties such as Clare, Galway, Kilkenny, Laois, Limerick, and Offaly on clear days. To the north, views encompass Lough Derg and the Slieve Bloom Mountains, while southward gazes reveal the expansive plains of Tipperary and the Galtee Mountains. The mountain's distinctive notch, formed by erosion and folklore-attributed to a devil's bite, frames these landscapes uniquely, visible prominently from trails and nearby roads like the route to Graffin. Hiking paths, such as the 3.7 km Devil's Bit Loop, traverse open hillsides, forested sections, and rocky outcrops, providing evolving scenic perspectives that culminate in summit overlooks. These elevations yield unobstructed sightlines over Ireland's undulating midland terrain, with the combination of heather-covered slopes and distant waterways drawing hikers for photographic opportunities and seasonal changes in visibility.

References

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