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Fiorucci
Fiorucci (Italian pronunciation: [fjoˈruttʃi]) is an Italian fashion label founded by Elio Fiorucci in 1967. The first Fiorucci shop exposed Milan to the styles of Swinging London and to American classics, such as the T-shirt and jeans. By the late 1970s, the direction of stylistic influence had reversed, and the Fiorucci store in New York City become famous for the foreign fashions it introduced to the United States. Known as the "daytime Studio 54", it attracted trendsetters from Andy Warhol to Madonna.
As a leader in the globalisation of fashion, Fiorucci scoured the globe for underground trends, introducing a newly affluent mass market to styles such as thongs from Brazil and Afghan coats. The label also popularised camouflage and leopard-skin prints before creating the designer jean market with the invention of stretch jeans. Advertising for these jeans usually featured a woman's buttocks in skin-tight denim, or in one case obscured by pink fluffy handcuffs, whilst the company logo was two cheeky angels modelled after Raphael's cherubs. However, mismanagement of the company led to receivership in 1989, and the brand was subsequently dogged by legal battles over trademarks. Several relaunches failed to make much impact.
Elio Fiorucci was found dead in his Milan home on 20 July 2015, at the age of 80. A month before his death, the brand was sold to Janie and Stephen Schaffer, who had founded the high street chain Knickerbox together in 1986. After an online Fiorucci launch and a campaign featuring Georgia May Jagger, a 5,000 sq ft destination store opened on Brewer Street in London's Soho in September 2017 during London Fashion Week. The launch party saw the Theo Adams Company transform L'Escargot, London's oldest French restaurant, into a world of disco, hedonism, and horror. The event was described by Women's Wear Daily as "the kind of party that many brands would kill for: achingly cool, outrageously oversubscribed and lots of fun." The following month Rizzoli launched a book entitled Fiorucci to celebrate 50 years of the brand, with a foreword by Oscar-winning director Sofia Coppola.
Elio Fiorucci was born in Milan on 10 June 1935, son of a shoe shop owner. One day in 1962, Elio came up with the idea of making galoshes in bright primary colours whilst working at his father's shop. When they were featured in a local weekly fashion magazine, the galoshes caused a sensation. After a trip to London in 1965, Elio was determined to bring Carnaby Street fashions to Milan. He opened his first shop on Galleria Passarella in Milan on 31 May 1967, selling clothes by London designers such as Ossie Clark and Zandra Rhodes.[citation needed]
In 1968, Fiorucci looked East for inspiration, buying cheap T-shirts from India and turning rice sacks into bags. Two years later, the company set up its own manufacturing plant, and adopted the "two angels" logo created by Italo Lupi. In 1974, the company opened a huge new store on Via Torino in Milan, expanding beyond fashion to offer books, furniture, and music. The new shop also had a performance area, a vintage clothing market, and a restaurant, and was financed by an investment from the Standa department stores, part of the Montedison group. Meanwhile, the label introduced the monokini and thong from Brazil, causing controversy with the topless photos used to advertise them. Glass beads from New Mexico were another hit. In 1975, the company opened its first store overseas, on the King's Road in London and launched a children's collection called Fioruccino. It brought Afghan coats to the mass market and popularised the leopard-skin prints first created by Elsa Schiaparelli two decades before.
In 1976 Fiorucci opened a store in New York City, down the block from Bloomingdale's on East 59th Street between Lexington and Park Avenues in Manhattan, with the goal of introducing the brand to American trendsetters during the disco age. Customers such as Cher, and Terence Conran rubbed shoulders with Jackie Onassis and Lauren Bacall; they might also see drag queen Joey Arias serving the King of Spain, author Douglas Coupland absorbing the store's pop culture, or Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt buying jeans. In the early 1980s, Fiorucci's art director was jewelry designer Maripol, known for creating Madonna's look at the time. Other employees included Madonna's brother, Christopher Ciccone; Terry Jones of i-D magazine; Oliviero Toscani, who shot many of the famous Benetton ads; and interior designer Jim Walrod.
In May 1979, the artist Kenny Scharf had his first solo exhibition in the New York City store, titled "Fiorucci Celebrates the New Wave" and featuring his colorful, retro-futuristic "Estelle Series." The opening included a performance by Klaus Nomi, a classically trained countertenor.
Meanwhile, the company continued to bring new products to market, including velvet slippers from China and a collection made from DuPont's new Tyvek fabric. In 1978, they were the first fashion house to license their name for a collection of sunglasses, whilst in 1981, a Disney license led to a highly successful range of clothes emblazoned with Mickey Mouse. Ever on the pulse of the times, Fiorucci sponsored the reunion of Simon and Garfunkel in The Concert in Central Park on 19 September 1981, attended by 400,000 people or more, and on the bill for their birthday party in 1983 was a then-unknown Madonna. In 1982, the company launched the first stretch jeans with Lycra, and the success of the 5-pocket "Safety" jeans was recognised three years later in a licensing deal with Wrangler Jeans. In 1987, Fiorucci produced the Junior Gaultier line designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier, and in 1989, they went back to their roots with a deal with Vivienne Westwood, queen of the London street scene.
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Fiorucci
Fiorucci (Italian pronunciation: [fjoˈruttʃi]) is an Italian fashion label founded by Elio Fiorucci in 1967. The first Fiorucci shop exposed Milan to the styles of Swinging London and to American classics, such as the T-shirt and jeans. By the late 1970s, the direction of stylistic influence had reversed, and the Fiorucci store in New York City become famous for the foreign fashions it introduced to the United States. Known as the "daytime Studio 54", it attracted trendsetters from Andy Warhol to Madonna.
As a leader in the globalisation of fashion, Fiorucci scoured the globe for underground trends, introducing a newly affluent mass market to styles such as thongs from Brazil and Afghan coats. The label also popularised camouflage and leopard-skin prints before creating the designer jean market with the invention of stretch jeans. Advertising for these jeans usually featured a woman's buttocks in skin-tight denim, or in one case obscured by pink fluffy handcuffs, whilst the company logo was two cheeky angels modelled after Raphael's cherubs. However, mismanagement of the company led to receivership in 1989, and the brand was subsequently dogged by legal battles over trademarks. Several relaunches failed to make much impact.
Elio Fiorucci was found dead in his Milan home on 20 July 2015, at the age of 80. A month before his death, the brand was sold to Janie and Stephen Schaffer, who had founded the high street chain Knickerbox together in 1986. After an online Fiorucci launch and a campaign featuring Georgia May Jagger, a 5,000 sq ft destination store opened on Brewer Street in London's Soho in September 2017 during London Fashion Week. The launch party saw the Theo Adams Company transform L'Escargot, London's oldest French restaurant, into a world of disco, hedonism, and horror. The event was described by Women's Wear Daily as "the kind of party that many brands would kill for: achingly cool, outrageously oversubscribed and lots of fun." The following month Rizzoli launched a book entitled Fiorucci to celebrate 50 years of the brand, with a foreword by Oscar-winning director Sofia Coppola.
Elio Fiorucci was born in Milan on 10 June 1935, son of a shoe shop owner. One day in 1962, Elio came up with the idea of making galoshes in bright primary colours whilst working at his father's shop. When they were featured in a local weekly fashion magazine, the galoshes caused a sensation. After a trip to London in 1965, Elio was determined to bring Carnaby Street fashions to Milan. He opened his first shop on Galleria Passarella in Milan on 31 May 1967, selling clothes by London designers such as Ossie Clark and Zandra Rhodes.[citation needed]
In 1968, Fiorucci looked East for inspiration, buying cheap T-shirts from India and turning rice sacks into bags. Two years later, the company set up its own manufacturing plant, and adopted the "two angels" logo created by Italo Lupi. In 1974, the company opened a huge new store on Via Torino in Milan, expanding beyond fashion to offer books, furniture, and music. The new shop also had a performance area, a vintage clothing market, and a restaurant, and was financed by an investment from the Standa department stores, part of the Montedison group. Meanwhile, the label introduced the monokini and thong from Brazil, causing controversy with the topless photos used to advertise them. Glass beads from New Mexico were another hit. In 1975, the company opened its first store overseas, on the King's Road in London and launched a children's collection called Fioruccino. It brought Afghan coats to the mass market and popularised the leopard-skin prints first created by Elsa Schiaparelli two decades before.
In 1976 Fiorucci opened a store in New York City, down the block from Bloomingdale's on East 59th Street between Lexington and Park Avenues in Manhattan, with the goal of introducing the brand to American trendsetters during the disco age. Customers such as Cher, and Terence Conran rubbed shoulders with Jackie Onassis and Lauren Bacall; they might also see drag queen Joey Arias serving the King of Spain, author Douglas Coupland absorbing the store's pop culture, or Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt buying jeans. In the early 1980s, Fiorucci's art director was jewelry designer Maripol, known for creating Madonna's look at the time. Other employees included Madonna's brother, Christopher Ciccone; Terry Jones of i-D magazine; Oliviero Toscani, who shot many of the famous Benetton ads; and interior designer Jim Walrod.
In May 1979, the artist Kenny Scharf had his first solo exhibition in the New York City store, titled "Fiorucci Celebrates the New Wave" and featuring his colorful, retro-futuristic "Estelle Series." The opening included a performance by Klaus Nomi, a classically trained countertenor.
Meanwhile, the company continued to bring new products to market, including velvet slippers from China and a collection made from DuPont's new Tyvek fabric. In 1978, they were the first fashion house to license their name for a collection of sunglasses, whilst in 1981, a Disney license led to a highly successful range of clothes emblazoned with Mickey Mouse. Ever on the pulse of the times, Fiorucci sponsored the reunion of Simon and Garfunkel in The Concert in Central Park on 19 September 1981, attended by 400,000 people or more, and on the bill for their birthday party in 1983 was a then-unknown Madonna. In 1982, the company launched the first stretch jeans with Lycra, and the success of the 5-pocket "Safety" jeans was recognised three years later in a licensing deal with Wrangler Jeans. In 1987, Fiorucci produced the Junior Gaultier line designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier, and in 1989, they went back to their roots with a deal with Vivienne Westwood, queen of the London street scene.