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Machapuchare
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Machapuchare, Machhapuchchhre or Machhapuchhre (from Nepali माछापुच्छ्रे 'fishtail', Tamu: कतासुँ क्लिको), is a mountain situated in the Annapurna massif of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. Its highest peak has never been officially climbed due to the impossibility of gaining a permit from the government of Nepal.
Key Information
Location
[edit]Machapuchare is at the end of a long spur ridge, coming south out of the main backbone of the Annapurna massif, which forms the eastern boundary of the Annapurna Sanctuary. The peak is about 25 km (16 mi) north of Pokhara, the provincial capital of the Gandaki Province. The sanctuary is a favorite trekking destination, and the site of the base camps for the South Face of Annapurna and many other named and unnamed peaks.
Notable features
[edit]Due to its southern position in the range and the particularly low terrain that lies south of the Annapurna Himalayas, which contains three of the 10 highest peaks in the world, Machapuchare commands tremendous vertical relief in a short horizontal distance. This, combined with its steep, pointed profile, makes it a particularly striking peak, despite its lower elevation than some of its neighbors. Its double summit resembles the tail of a fish, hence the name meaning "fish's tail" in Nepalese. It is also nicknamed the "Matterhorn of Nepal".
It is a sacred peak for the Gurungs and the people of Chomrong.[2] The mountain is said to be sacred as a home to the god Shiva.[3]
Climbing history
[edit]
It is believed that Machapuchare has never been climbed to the summit. The only confirmed attempt was in 1957 by a British team led by Lieutenant Colonel Jimmy Roberts. Climbers Wilfrid Noyce and A. D. M. Cox climbed to within 150 ft (46 m) of the summit via the north ridge,[4] to an approximate altitude of 22,793 ft (6,947 m). King Mahendra had given them permission to climb the mountain, but forbade them from stepping foot on the summit itself, Noyce and his team honoured his words and published the only climbing record of the mountain a year later.[5] Early in the expedition another member of the party, Roger Chorley, contracted polio, with help from Jimmy Roberts he left the expedition to seek medical assistance.[6]
No permits to climb the mountain have been issued since then but there are reports of a New Zealand climber, Bill Denz, illegally but successfully reaching the summit in the early 1980s.[7]
Sources
[edit]- Fanshawe, Andy; Venables, Stephen (1995). Himalaya Alpine Style. Hodder and Stoughton.
- Ohmori, Koichiro (1994). Over The Himalaya. Cloudcap Press/The Mountaineers.
References
[edit]- ^ a b "Machapuchare". Peakbagger.com.
- ^ Vallangi, Neelima. "The Himalayan peak off limits to climbers". www.bbc.com. Retrieved 22 February 2021.
- ^ "Mt. Machhapuchhre: Should it be opened for climbing?". HoneyGuide. 30 July 2015. Retrieved 30 October 2019.
- ^ Noyce, Wilfred (1957). "Climbing the Fish's Tail" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #62 (94): 113–120. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 16 November 2024.
- ^ Noyce, Wilfrid (1998) [1958]. Climbing the fish's tail. Pilgrims Book House. ISBN 978-8173031007. OCLC 857085947. Retrieved 12 September 2024.
- ^ Noyce, Wilfrid (1958). "Asia, Nepal, Machapuchare". American Alpine Journal. #11 (32): 118–120. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 12 September 2024.
- ^ AnOther (22 July 2016). "The Untouched Holy Mountain of Nepal". AnOther. Retrieved 30 October 2019.
External links
[edit]
- Machapuchare on Summitpost
- The world's 19 most staggeringly beautiful mountains The Telegraph, April 2018.
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Machapuchare
View on Grokipediafrom Grokipedia
Machapuchare, also known as Machhapuchhre or Fishtail Peak, is a mountain in the Annapurna massif of the Himalayas in Gandaki Province, Nepal, reaching an elevation of 6,993 metres (22,943 feet). Its name derives from Nepali words meaning "fish's tail," referring to the distinctive double summit that resembles a fish tail when viewed from certain angles, particularly from the Pokhara Valley. Revered as sacred by Hindu and Gurung communities, who regard it as the abode of the god Shiva, the peak has never been officially summited due to a climbing ban imposed by the Nepalese government following a 1957 British expedition that approached within 150 metres of the top but turned back.[1][2][3]
Prominently visible from Pokhara, about 25 kilometres to the southeast, Machapuchare serves as an iconic landmark for trekkers in the Annapurna region, often featured in routes like the Annapurna Base Camp trek. The prohibition on climbing, rooted in cultural and religious respect rather than technical difficulty, preserves its pristine status amid surrounding peaks that have seen numerous ascents. Geological surveys confirm its position at coordinates approximately 28°29′42″N 83°53′40″E, within a geologically active zone prone to avalanches, which adds to the challenges of any potential approach.[4][5][6]
Geography
Location and Topography
Machapuchare is situated in the Annapurna Massif of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal.[4] Its precise coordinates are 28°29′53″N 83°56′46″E.[7] The peak reaches an elevation of 6,993 meters (22,943 feet), as measured by geodetic surveys.[7][8] It lies approximately 25 kilometers north of Pokhara, integrating into the rugged terrain of the Gandaki Province's Himalayan foothills.[9][1] Topographically, Machapuchare forms the southern terminus of a ridge spur projecting from the Annapurna Massif's main backbone, with steep flanks descending toward the Modi Khola valley below.[10] This positioning creates a distinctive fishtail-like bifurcation at the summit ridge, amid the massif's glaciated spurs and deep glacial troughs.[4] The surrounding topography features sharp aretes and cirques characteristic of high-altitude Himalayan orogeny, with the peak's base anchored in alpine meadows transitioning to subtropical valleys southward.[7]Surrounding Region
Machapuchare is situated in the Annapurna Himal sub-range within the greater Annapurna massif, contributing to the eastern perimeter of the Annapurna Sanctuary, a cirque-like glacial basin roughly 40 km north of Pokhara in Gandaki Province, Nepal.[1] The peak's prominent position amid this enclosed highland amplifies its visibility from southern viewpoints, while the sanctuary's steep enclosing walls limit access and foster a sense of remoteness.[11] Immediate neighbors include Hiunchuli, peaking at 6,441 m immediately to the southwest as an extension of Annapurna South, and Annapurna South itself at 7,219 m to the southeast, forming natural barriers that define the sanctuary's amphitheater shape.[12] These adjacent summits, along with others like Annapurna I to the north, create a compact cluster of elevations exceeding 6,000 m, isolating Machapuchare from broader lowland influences and channeling local weather patterns.[13] The region is drained southward by the Modi Khola River, which collects glacial runoff through the sanctuary's narrow southern gateway—a steep pass between Hiunchuli and Machapuchare—before incising a profound gorge that heightens the peak's topographic seclusion and subjects it to intensified monsoon precipitation channeled along the valley.[14] [15] This 675 km² basin sustains the river's flow, which merges with the Kali Gandaki downstream at Modi Beni, underscoring the hydrological connectivity that both isolates and defines the upper catchment.[16] The encompassing basin's elevated terrain stems from prolonged tectonic compression and uplift tied to the collision between the Indian Plate (formerly part of the Indo-Australian Plate) and the Eurasian Plate, initiating around 50 million years ago and perpetuating crustal shortening that has raised the Annapurna range to its current altitudes.[17] This orogenic activity not only accounts for the sanctuary's vertical relief but also contributes to ongoing seismic hazards and erosional dynamics in the vicinity.[18]Physical Characteristics
Elevation and Shape
Machapuchare reaches an elevation of 6,993 meters (22,943 feet) above sea level, positioning it as a prominent but secondary peak within the Annapurna massif.[1][19] Its topographic prominence measures approximately 1,233 meters, reflecting a significant rise from the nearest higher col, which underscores its isolated and visually dominant form amid surrounding terrain.[4] The mountain's shape is characterized by a distinctive double summit that evokes the tail of a fish—reflected in its Nepali name Machapuchare, meaning "fishtail"—with the eastern peak slightly taller than the western counterpart, forming a narrow, bifurcated ridge at the apex.[1][19] This configuration arises from sharp, pyramidal ridges converging upward, creating sheer faces that drop precipitously; the slopes exceed 50 degrees in steepness on multiple aspects, enabling rapid visual prominence even from distances over 50 kilometers.[19] From its base in the upper Modi Khola valley around 3,700–4,000 meters, the edifice ascends abruptly over 3,000 vertical meters, with minimal foothills buffering its profile against the lower Annapurna Sanctuary basin.[20] This near-vertical rise, combined with exposed rock and ice on the faces, amplifies its angular, dagger-like silhouette, distinguishing it from broader, glaciated neighbors like Annapurna I.[1] The summit ridge typically retains perennial snow and ice cover due to the altitude's persistent sub-zero temperatures and orographic precipitation effects, though the steep gradients facilitate wind-scouring and avalanching, limiting accumulation on lower faces.[21] Recent surveys and observations, however, document episodic snow-free periods on the upper ridges, linked to regional warming trends reducing Himalayan snowfall persistence since the early 2000s.[22]Glaciers and Routes
Machapuchare hosts small glaciers primarily on its north face, characterized by snow and ice extending to upper ridges, while the south face is largely rocky with limited ice cover. These northern glaciers contribute meltwater to the Modi Glacier system in the Annapurna Sanctuary, draining chaotically toward the Modi Khola gorge.[23] [24] Hanging seracs and glacial ice on the summit cliffs render the faces highly avalanche-prone, as large blocks of ice frequently detach, triggering cascades down the slopes.[25][26] Approaches to the mountain utilize trails through the Annapurna Sanctuary via the Modi Khola valley, with base camps established at approximately 13,000 feet (3,960 meters) and higher camps along steep snow-ice flutings on the north ridge from the North Col at 19,500 feet (5,944 meters). The west face offers routes via deep, narrow couloirs that channel the entire slope's drainage, demanding technical navigation amid precipitous terrain.[23] [27] Seasonal snow accumulation peaks during winter months, layering the peak and augmenting glacial features, as documented in mountaineering observations and corroborated by satellite-derived snow cover data for Nepal's Himalayas, showing maximal extent from December through March prior to spring melt.[28] [29]Geology
Formation and Tectonic Context
Machapuchare formed as part of the Himalayan orogeny, initiated by the collision of the Indian Plate with the Eurasian Plate around 50 million years ago, which closed the Neo-Tethys Ocean and triggered continental subduction and crustal thickening.[30] This process folded and thrust ancient sedimentary and metamorphic rocks northward, elevating the proto-Himalayas over tens of millions of years through compressional tectonics.[31] In the Annapurna region, where Machapuchare is situated, this orogeny produced a stack of lithotectonic units, with the peak emerging from the Greater Himalayan Sequence (GHS) during Miocene thrusting.[32] The mountain's tectonic setting aligns with the Main Central Thrust (MCT) zone, a major ductile-brittle shear zone that juxtaposes the high-grade GHS above low-grade Lesser Himalayan rocks, facilitating mid-crustal channel flow and extrusion.[31] Its core comprises Precambrian gneisses, such as the Annapurna gneiss formation, which represent deformed basement rocks metamorphosed under amphibolite to granulite facies conditions during the Eocene to Miocene.[33] Ongoing convergence along the Main Himalayan Thrust beneath drives persistent uplift at rates of 4-6 mm per year in central Nepal, as measured by geodetic surveys, while seismic activity—evidenced by frequent moderate earthquakes—accommodates strain release.[34] Erosion, driven by monsoon precipitation and glacial processes, counteracts this uplift, with denudation rates in the Annapurna Himalayas reaching up to 3 mm per year over millennial scales, sculpting the peak's steep profile through differential weathering of thrust sheets.[35] Geological mapping confirms that these dynamics maintain Machapuchare's prominence within the MCT hanging wall, without significant recent volcanism or magmatism altering its structure.[36]Rock Composition
Machapuchare's rock composition is dominated by metamorphic lithologies typical of the Greater Himalayan Sequence in the Annapurna-Dhaulagiri region, including quartzofeldspathic gneiss, schist, and quartzite.[31] These rocks result from high-grade metamorphism of protoliths under amphibolite-facies conditions, with gneiss exhibiting banded structures of quartz, feldspar, and mica, while schists display pronounced foliation dominated by biotite and muscovite.[31] Quartzite layers, often forming resistant ridges, cap portions of the summit, contributing to the peak's sharp, fishtail morphology through differential erosion.[37] Field observations and regional mapping indicate evidence of Miocene granitic intrusions, such as leucocratic phases cross-cutting the metamorphic fabric, dated to approximately 20-24 million years ago via radiometric analyses in analogous Annapurna-area exposures.[38] These intrusions, characterized by quartz, plagioclase, and K-feldspar with minor biotite, represent partial melting events during crustal thickening.[38] The foliated nature of gneiss and schist promotes structural instability, as aligned mineral planes serve as failure surfaces under gravitational stress, exacerbated by mechanical weathering that exploits cleavage and jointing.[31] Empirical studies from regional Himalayan outcrops demonstrate frequent rockfall events, with block detachments along foliation dips leading to talus accumulation; quartzite's higher compressive strength provides localized stability but does not mitigate broader slope failures in schistose units.[37] This lithological makeup underscores the mountain's inherent hazard profile, independent of anthropogenic factors.[31]Cultural Significance
Etymology and Local Beliefs
The name Machapuchare originates from the Nepali language, where macha means "fish" and puchare means "tail," directly translating to "fish's tail."[9] This nomenclature reflects the mountain's prominent geological feature: a sharply bifurcated summit ridge that visually mimics the shape of a fish tail when viewed from certain southern perspectives in the Annapurna region.[1] The English equivalent, "Fishtail Peak," entered Western usage following early 20th-century expeditions, with variations in transliteration such as Machhapuchhre or Machapuchhre appearing in mountaineering literature due to inconsistencies in romanizing Nepali script.[39] Among the indigenous Gurung people of central Nepal, Machapuchare holds significance in traditional beliefs as the earthly abode of Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction and transformation.[3] These perceptions are embedded in oral folklore transmitted across generations, portraying the peak as a sacred site where divine presence manifests through its imposing, untouched form amid the Himalayas.[40] Ethnographic accounts note that Gurung shamans and elders reference the mountain in rituals, associating its enduring snow cover and isolation with Shiva's ascetic withdrawal from worldly affairs, though such interpretations remain unverified by empirical observation and stem from pre-literate cultural narratives rather than documented historical texts.[41] Broader Nepali folklore extends these Gurung-specific views to encompass the Annapurna massif as a collective domain of Himalayan deities, with Machapuchare's fish-tail silhouette symbolizing mythical aquatic or transformative motifs in regional cosmology.[42] Local references to the peak in pre-20th-century oral histories, as recounted in community traditions, predate European cartographic depictions, underscoring its role in indigenous spatial and spiritual mapping of the landscape.[39]Religious Reverence
In Hinduism, Machapuchare is regarded as the abode of Lord Shiva, a principal deity symbolizing destruction and regeneration, with local traditions holding that summiting the peak would disturb divine presence and invite calamity.[1] [43] This belief, rooted in the mountain's fishtail-shaped summit resembling Shiva's Trishul (trident) in some interpretations, underscores its sanctity among Hindu communities in the Annapurna region, where it serves as a site for prayers and offerings to avert natural disasters.[2] Among the Gurung people, who practice a syncretic blend of Hinduism, Buddhism, and animism, the peak functions as a protective deity, with herders historically offering rituals for safeguarding livestock and crops from avalanches and storms, reflecting empirical observations of the mountain's role in regional weather patterns tied to spiritual causality.[1] [44] The prohibition on climbing originated from a 1957 British expedition led by Wilfrid Noyce, which received permission from King Mahendra to attempt the ascent but pledged not to step on the summit itself, honoring local religious sensitivities; the team halted 150 meters below the top on October 19, 1957, and no subsequent permits have been issued, formalizing the ban by 1962 to preserve cultural integrity.[9] [41] This policy, enforced by Nepal's government amid petitions from Gurung elders, aligns with broader Himalayan traditions viewing unclimbed peaks as thresholds to the sacred, though it lacks empirical enforcement mechanisms beyond permit denial and community vigilance.[45] Debates persist over the ban's rationale, with proponents of preservation arguing it maintains verifiable local traditions and prevents environmental degradation from expeditions—as seen in overcrowded peaks like Everest—while critics, including mountaineering advocates, contend it forgoes economic benefits from regulated climbing on one of Nepal's 414 permitted peaks, potentially yielding revenue without disproven spiritual harm, given no documented misfortunes from near-summits or alleged illicit ascents.[41] [19] Local communities enforce taboos through social pressure, yet government reviews, such as those in 2022, weigh tourism income against unverified divine risks, highlighting tensions between cultural empiricism and modernization rights.[46]Exploration History
Early Observations
Machapuchare has long been recognized by indigenous communities in Nepal's Gandaki Province, particularly the Gurung people inhabiting the surrounding Annapurna valleys, as a sacred landmark integral to their spiritual and daily lives. Traditional herding trails and pilgrimage routes encircling its lower flanks have facilitated seasonal livestock migration to high pastures and access to alpine meadows for centuries, predating modern trekking infrastructure. These paths, documented in ethnographic accounts of local transhumance practices, underscore the mountain's role in sustaining regional economies and cultural continuity among highland ethnic groups.[47] The peak's distinctive double summit, resembling a fish's tail, renders it prominently visible from nearby settlements like Pokhara, approximately 25 kilometers to the south, serving as a navigational and symbolic reference point in local oral histories. While the Himalayan range broadly fell under the scope of 19th-century British trigonometric surveys conducted from Indian territories, specific early notations of Machapuchare remain elusive in preserved records, likely due to Nepal's isolation and the focus on higher, more distant summits.[48] Initial documented Western observations emerged in the early 20th century amid growing British interest in Nepal's frontiers. A 1936 dispatch by a British army officer described the peak's allure, drawing attention from mountaineering circles and influencing figures like expedition leader Jimmy Roberts, who later spearheaded efforts to approach it. These sightings established baseline cartographic and descriptive knowledge, distinguishing the mountain's sharp profile from broader Annapurna massif features visible under clear atmospheric conditions.[19]1957 Expedition
The 1957 British expedition to Machapuchare, the only documented high-altitude attempt on the peak, was led by Lieutenant-Colonel J. O. M. Roberts, with key participants including Wilfrid Noyce, A. D. M. Cox, Charles G. Wylie, Roger Chorley, and Sherpas Ang Nyima, Tashi, Ang Tsering, and Da Temba. [27] The team departed Pokhara on April 18, establishing base camp at 13,000 feet (3,960 m) on April 24 after a seven-day porter-supported march via the Modi Khola valley. Intermediate camps followed: Camp I at 16,000 feet (4,880 m) on April 27 and North Col at 19,500 feet (5,944 m) on May 1, navigating gendarmes, flutings, and a knife-edge ridge en route to the north ridge. [27] Logistics relied on approximately 50 local porters for initial loads, supplemented by Sherpa support for higher carries, with supplies sourced from India and Nepal despite delays from customs at Bhairawa and a late ship arrival.[27] Equipment comprised 900 feet of manila ropes (much fixed for safety), crampons, ice axes, pitons, a rope ladder for crevasses, and nylon lines for snowfields, typical of mid-1950s Himalayan efforts emphasizing fixed lines on steep terrain. Challenges included heavy snowfall, hailstorms, soft snow on east-facing slopes, and Chorley's polio setback, limiting team capacity. On June 2, Noyce and Cox pushed from Camp IV at 20,400 feet (6,217 m), ascending steep ice ribs and a final snow shelf to reach approximately 150 feet (46 m) below the summit at 22,958 feet (6,999 m), the highest verified point on the peak. They turned back amid falling snow, hard ice, route uncertainties, and time pressures, deeming further progress unsafe for the two-man team; Noyce later described it as leaving the peak to "her stormy privacy." The expedition had paid a 1,000-rupee royalty to Nepalese authorities and consulted local Gurung mukhiyas, acknowledging the peak's sanctity in indigenous beliefs, though the retreat decision stemmed primarily from immediate climbing conditions rather than a preemptive assurance.[27] No summit claim was made despite the route's technical viability up to that point, and the team successfully ascended an unnamed 22,000-foot (6,706 m) subsidiary peak.[27]Subsequent Status
Following the 1957 British expedition's unsuccessful attempt, the Government of Nepal declared Machapuchare a sacred peak and prohibited climbing permits to preserve its religious significance as a abode of Shiva, with no official authorizations granted thereafter.[19][41] This policy, formalized around 1962, aligns with local Gurung and Hindu reverence, ensuring the mountain's summit remains untouched by sanctioned ascents.[3] Rumors of unauthorized summits persist, notably a purported early 1980s ascent via the north ridge by New Zealand climber Bill Denz, but these claims lack verification due to his death shortly after and absence of photographic or eyewitness evidence.[3] Mountaineering organizations, including records maintained by the Himalayan Database, classify the peak as unclimbed, dismissing unconfirmed reports as speculative without empirical support.[3] As of 2025, visibility from popular treks such as the Annapurna Base Camp route continues to affirm the summit's pristine and unscaled condition, with no documented breaches altering its status amid ongoing permit enforcement.[1][45]Conservation and Access
Protected Status
Machapuchare lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA), Nepal's largest protected area encompassing 7,629 square kilometers across the Annapurna massif, established in 1986 through the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP).[49][50] The ACA operates under IUCN Category VI, focusing on sustainable resource use and habitat protection rather than strict no-entry zones, with management delegated to the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC), an independent NGO funded primarily through visitor entry fees rather than direct government allocations.[49][50] Conservation measures prioritize biodiversity preservation in the high-altitude zones around Machapuchare, safeguarding flora such as multiple rhododendron species that dominate subalpine forests and fauna including blue sheep (Pseudois nayaur) populations in alpine meadows, which serve as prey for snow leopards and indicators of ecosystem health.[49] Entry to the ACA requires an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), issued by NTNC, which enforces restrictions on base camp activities including limits on camping durations, waste generation, and firewood collection to prevent soil erosion and vegetation trampling in sensitive ridge areas.[49][51] The Nepalese government, through the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation, supports enforcement under the National Parks and Wildlife Conservation Act of 1973 (as amended), imposing fines for infractions such as illegal logging or poaching—ranging from 5,000 to 50,000 Nepalese rupees based on violation severity—and confiscation of equipment, with NTNC checkposts recording over 100 such cases annually in the ACA to maintain compliance.[50]Tourism Impacts
Machapuchare attracts trekkers primarily through the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) route, which includes a side trip to Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC) at 3,700 meters, offering close views of its fishtail summit, and viewpoints like Poon Hill at 3,210 meters for panoramic sights of the peak alongside Annapurna South and Hiunchuli.[52][53] The ABC trek draws over 50,000 visitors annually, contributing to the broader Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) seeing 244,045 foreign tourists in 2024, with monthly peaks exceeding 30,000 during peak seasons.[54][55][56] Tourism generates substantial economic benefits for local Gurung communities in the ACA, providing employment in guiding, lodging, and porter services, while Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) revenues from entry permits—approximately NPR 3,000 per foreign trekker—fund infrastructure, education, and healthcare improvements, helping reduce poverty in rural areas.[57][58][59] However, high visitation volumes strain resources, with trekking supporting socio-economic development but also exacerbating waste accumulation, as the ACA generates significant solid waste from trekkers and lodges, often inadequately managed in remote villages.[49][60] Environmental degradation includes trail erosion from foot traffic and overuse, leading to landslides and habitat disruption in fragile Himalayan ecosystems, alongside deforestation for firewood and water pollution from campsites.[61][62][63] ACAP regulations, including mandatory permits and guidelines for waste disposal and trail adherence, aim to mitigate these by funding conservation and limiting impacts through community-led monitoring, though enforcement challenges persist amid rising numbers.[64][65][49]References
- https://incubator.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Mt.fishtail