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The Himalayan Database
The Himalayan Database
The Himalayan Database
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The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley is a large digital and published record of mountaineering in the Nepalese Himalayas since 1903 (i.e. it does not include the Pakistan Himalaya peaks such as K2 and Nanga Parbat etc.), maintained by Richard Salisbury who digitised the records.

Key Information

Background

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The Himalayan Database (HDB), was developed and maintained by Elizabeth Hawley, who remained involved up to her death in 2018.[1][2][3][4][5] It was published as a CD and an 80-page paperback up until 2017.[4] From 2017 onwards, records of expeditions, their members have been searchable online, or available as a complete downloadable database. It fills in for the absence of officially maintained records.[6] It has been published by the American Alpine Club.[7]

As well as being an important repository for climbing statistics on Himalayan mountains, the database also became known for its decisions to disregard or dispute various climbs.[8][9] Notable cases was the decision not to record a 1990 ascent of Cho Oyu by British climber Alan Hinkes, which put a question-mark over Hinkes' claim to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders;[10] and the 1997 ascent of Lhotse by Italian climbers Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini[11] which forced Sergio Martini to reclimb Lhotse in 2000 to verify he had climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (De Stefani decided not to re-climb).

Bibliography

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See also

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References

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The Himalayan Database

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The Himalayan Database is a comprehensive compilation of records documenting all expeditions that have attempted climbs in the Himalaya, covering 490 peaks from 1905 through Autumn-Winter 2024. It includes details on over 11,500 expeditions involving more than 90,800 members, as well as over 16,100 literature references related to these climbs. The database tracks key aspects such as routes taken, oxygen usage, summit successes, fatalities, and accidents, serving as an authoritative archive for Himalayan history. Originating from the personal archives of Elizabeth Hawley, a Kathmandu-based American journalist who began systematically recording expedition details in the through interviews, official permits, and reports, the database evolved from her decades-long dedication to documenting climbs in the region. In the , climber and researcher Richard Salisbury digitized Hawley's handwritten notes and expanded the collection into a searchable electronic format, leading to its first public release in 2004 as a non-profit . Hawley, who passed away in 2018 at age 95, is widely regarded as the preeminent chronicler of Himalayan expeditions, with her work forming the foundational core of the database. Today, maintained by a small team under Salisbury's oversight, the database is updated biannually and offers free access through downloadable files and an online subset featuring customizable reports and searches by peak, climber, season, or nationality. It encompasses not only the 14 highest peaks like and Kanchenjunga but also border peaks shared with neighboring countries and lower trekking summits, providing invaluable data for researchers, historians, and the mountaineering community.

History

Origins with Elizabeth Hawley

Elizabeth Hawley, an American journalist born in Chicago in 1923, initially worked as an editorial researcher for Fortune magazine before relocating to Kathmandu, Nepal, in 1960 as a reporter for Time, Inc. Initially focused on political reporting from the newly opened kingdom, she developed a keen interest in mountaineering amid the influx of international expeditions to the Himalayas. Hawley began documenting Himalayan climbs informally in the early , transitioning from casual observations to systematic record-keeping. Her first comprehensive records date to the expeditions, where she started compiling detailed accounts of teams, routes, and outcomes based on direct interactions with climbers. By the late , these efforts had formalized into what became known as the Hawley Expedition Archives, a personal repository of handwritten notes, forms, and correspondence that served as the foundational core of the Himalayan Database. Central to Hawley's methodology was her rigorous interviewing process, conducted in person with returning climbers at her home or hotels. She posed pointed questions about expedition specifics—such as exact routes taken, summit dates, weather conditions, and team compositions—to verify claims and ensure factual accuracy, often challenging inconsistencies with a reputation for sharp scrutiny that earned her the nickname "the of Himalayan summits." This hands-on approach prioritized veracity over self-reported successes, filling gaps in official permits and reports from Nepal's tourism authorities. The archives expanded rapidly during the , a golden era of Himalayan exploration with increased international access to peaks like and . By the end of the decade, Hawley had recorded details from over 1,000 expeditions, capturing ascents, attempts, and fatalities across Nepal's high mountains. In parallel, she contributed as the Himalayan correspondent for the American Alpine Journal, supplying verified expedition summaries that bolstered the publication's credibility on global climbing achievements.

Continuation After Hawley

In the 1990s, Elizabeth Hawley collaborated with mountaineer and researcher Richard Salisbury to digitize her extensive manual records of Himalayan expeditions, transforming them into a searchable electronic format. This effort culminated in the first published edition of The Himalayan Database in 2004, compiling data from expeditions up to that time and making the information accessible via for researchers and climbers. Following Hawley's death on January 26, 2018, at the age of 94 in , her archives were donated to the American Alpine Club Library to ensure their long-term preservation and public access. This transfer, formalized in the years immediately after her passing, safeguarded the original documents and supported the database's ongoing development. The database has since received bi-annual updates, incorporating details from new expeditions and refining existing entries based on verified reports from climbers and Nepalese authorities. As of November 2025, these updates have expanded coverage to include data through the Autumn-Winter 2024 season, with ongoing incorporation of subsequent seasons, maintaining the resource's comprehensiveness amid increasing Himalayan activity. Institutional support from the American Alpine Club has been pivotal in ensuring the database's continuity, providing archival expertise, funding for updates, and collaboration with a non-profit entity established in 2017 to oversee digital maintenance and distribution; following this reorganization, the database became freely available for download starting November 2017. This framework has allowed the project to evolve beyond Hawley's personal involvement into a sustained, collaborative endeavor.

Content and Scope

Covered Expeditions and Peaks

The Himalayan Database encompasses expeditions to peaks within the , focusing exclusively on permitted climbs conducted by international, commercial, and independent teams. This geographical scope is limited to the Nepalese side of the , including both flanks of border peaks such as , , , and , while excluding expeditions in the Tibetan or Indian Himalayas. The database covers a total of 490 peaks, including lower trekking summits, with 374 significant peaks, primarily those exceeding 5,500 meters in , detailed in the peak list. It places particular emphasis on the eight Nepalese eight-thousanders: Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri I, , , , , , and . Temporally, the database records expeditions from the earliest British attempts in through to the present, providing comprehensive coverage beginning in following Nepal's opening to foreign climbers. This period marks the onset of systematic activity in the region, with ongoing biannual updates ensuring the inclusion of recent seasons up to spring 2025. The database verifies permitted expeditions only, drawing from official archives to maintain accuracy in documenting routes, teams, and outcomes within these boundaries. As of June 2025, the database documents over 11,500 expeditions across these peaks, illustrating the scale of Himalayan mountaineering activity. For instance, Mount Everest alone accounts for more than 12,884 recorded ascents through December 2024, highlighting the database's depth for high-profile peaks while providing broader context for lesser-known routes and attempts.

Recorded Data Types

The Himalayan Database maintains comprehensive records of mountaineering activities in the Nepalese Himalayas, capturing a wide array of data for each expedition to ensure accurate historical documentation. Core records focus on ascents, attempts, and incidents, providing granular details that track the outcomes and challenges of climbs. For successful ascents, the database logs summit dates (up to three per climber), times, specific routes taken, and whether supplemental oxygen was used, along with notations on whether the success was claimed or disputed. Attempts are documented with the highest point reached (in meters), reasons for termination such as weather conditions, illness, route difficulty, or accidents, and additional narrative notes. Incidents encompass deaths, injuries, and rescues, recording the date, time, location (height in meters), phase of the climb (ascent or descent), and cause. Supporting details enrich the expedition profiles by including administrative and logistical elements essential for contextualizing team efforts. These encompass expedition permits (implied through member registrations), team leaders' names, climbers' nationalities, involvement of Sherpas and other hired personnel (with totals for members, summiteers, and fatalities per expedition), and notes such as oxygen types, lengths used, and camp locations. Such information highlights the multinational composition of teams and the reliance on local support, with over 90,800 individuals recorded across more than 11,500 expeditions. Incident specifics are meticulously cataloged to analyze risks in high-altitude , with the database logging fatalities, injuries, and their precipitating factors. Causes of death include , , falls, and exposure, often tied to specific heights and climb phases; for instance, the , which claimed eight lives due to a and related complications, is fully detailed with individual accounts. Overall, the database has recorded over 1,000 fatalities across Nepalese Himalayan peaks since , underscoring patterns in mountaineering hazards. Supplementary data enhances verifiability and depth, incorporating references to photographic via PhotoMemo entries and cross-verifications with official Nepali government records, expedition reports, journals, and books—totaling more than 16,100 literature citations. These elements allow for corroboration of claims, such as disputed summits or incident timelines, without relying solely on self-reported expedition logs.

Development and Maintenance

Compilation Methods

The compilation of The Himalayan Database relies primarily on direct interviews conducted with returning climbers, supplemented by permit applications from Nepal's Ministry of Tourism and reports from alpine journals such as the Himalayan Journal and the American Alpine Journal. Elizabeth Hawley initiated this process in the 1960s by systematically interviewing expedition members in Kathmandu hotels immediately after their climbs, capturing details on routes, weather conditions, summit evidence, and team dynamics; these interviews formed the core of her archives, totaling over 7,000 sessions documenting more than 20,000 ascents across approximately 460 peaks. Permit data provides foundational expedition details, including participant lists and objectives, while journal reports offer corroborative accounts from independent sources. Verification protocols emphasize rigorous cross-checking against multiple sources to ensure accuracy, with Hawley employing detailed questioning and separate interviews of team members to detect inconsistencies in claims. For disputed ascents, she required corroborating evidence such as summit photographs, Sherpa testimonies, or consistent narratives from at least two participants before granting recognition, often marking unverified claims as "disputed" or "unlikely" in her records. This methodical scrutiny, likened to detective work, built the database's reputation for reliability among mountaineers and researchers. The digitization of Hawley's manual records began in the early through collaboration with Richard Salisbury, who spent over 10,000 hours transferring data from physical archives into a digital format, culminating in the first electronic version released in 2004 as a program published by the American Alpine Club. Hawley retired in 2016. Prior to this, records were maintained on index cards and paper files from the through the , reflecting Hawley's analog approach to cataloging expeditions. Updates to the database involve post-season reviews in , where new expedition data is manually entered annually or bi-annually by a dedicated team, incorporating contemporary evidence to validate recent climbs. This process ensures the database remains current, with the Autumn-Winter 2024 edition covering expeditions up to that period and reflecting ongoing refinements to historical entries.

Current Stewardship

The stewardship of The Himalayan Database is primarily managed by Richard Salisbury, an American IT consultant who has served as the primary compiler and technical director since its inception in 1993. Salisbury began collaborating with Elizabeth Hawley in the early to digitize her extensive expedition archives, a partnership that continued until Hawley's death in 2018, after which he has handled updates with a small to preserve and expand the records' accuracy. Organizationally, the database is maintained by , a non-profit entity established in 1994. It is hosted on the official website, himalayandatabase.com, which provides both online access to a subset of features and downloadable versions of the full dataset. This structure supports broad dissemination while safeguarding the archival integrity of Hawley's original notes and subsequent compilations. Updates to the database occur seasonally, incorporating data from the most recent climbing expeditions in the Himalaya, with the Autumn-Winter 2024 release being the latest available as of November 2025. In conjunction with the release of Version 2, a free access policy was implemented in , allowing unlimited downloads of Version 2 and later iterations to promote widespread use among researchers, mountaineers, and scholars without financial barriers.

Access and Publications

Online and Digital Access

The Himalayan Database Online, hosted at himalayandatabase.com, offers free web-based access to a curated subset of expedition records since November 2017, following the establishment of a non-profit to steward the archives. This online platform provides essential tools for querying data on Himalaya expeditions from 1905 onward, focusing on key metrics such as summit successes, fatalities, and team compositions without requiring software installation. Core features include specialized reports like the Peak Ascents Report, which details successful climbs with breakdowns by date, route, and equipment use, and the Peak Deaths Report, compiling incident records including causes and locations. Users can generate expedition searches filtered by year, , expedition leader, of participants, or , enabling targeted explorations such as all attempts on a specific peak like in a given decade. Additional options encompass lists for ascents and deaths, with interactive tables that allow sorting and viewing of results in a grid format for quick analysis. Search functionalities support refinements for attributes like oxygen usage, gender groups, or hired personnel status, facilitating queries on trends such as nationality-based success rates or incident patterns on particular routes. For instance, the Season Ascents report produces interactive summaries like "," displaying tabular data on summits, attempts, and demographics across seasons. The interface is optimized for mobile devices, including tablets and smartphones, ensuring accessibility for field researchers or on-the-go climbers, though it lacks a dedicated for programmatic access. As of 2025, while comprehensive exports are reserved for the full downloadable version, the online tools permit basic data copying from tables for further use. This supports real-time by mountaineers, journalists, and scholars, with preset reports and custom filters streamlining access to historical patterns in Himalayan climbing. The Himalayan Database has been distributed in print and downloadable formats since its inception, providing comprehensive offline access to its expedition records for mountaineers, historians, and researchers. The original print edition appeared in 2004 as a package published by the American Alpine Club, featuring a searchable database covering expeditions from 1905 to 2003 alongside an 80-page booklet compiled from Elizabeth Hawley's archives. This edition, priced at $69.95 and limited to 1,000 copies, was sold out shortly after release and distributed through outlets like Mountaineers Books in . Complementing the core database, a related print publication titled The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya offers summarized insights derived from the archives. First published in 2011 by Vajra Publications, it analyzes trends from 1950 to 2009; the second edition, released in 2021 and covering data through 2019, includes updated statistics on ascents, fatalities, and expedition patterns, with print copies available via retailers and a free PDF version downloadable from the official site. For broader offline use, version 2 of the full database has been freely downloadable since 2017 from the official website in Visual FoxPro 9 format, succeeding the 2004 and incorporating enhancements like streamlined fields. The current iteration, version 2.74 (Autumn-Winter 2024 update), encompasses all records up to the latest climbing season, with bi-annual refreshes to reflect new expeditions; as of , it contains over 11,500 expedition records, more than 90,800 member records, 490 peak records, and over 16,100 literature references. The downloadable package is a ZIP file with relational tables linking expeditions, members, ascents, peaks, and references, allowing users to perform custom queries via the included viewer (Himal 2.74) on Windows systems. A detailed in PDF format accompanies the files, outlining setup, querying techniques, and compatibility requirements, such as the Visual FoxPro runtime library for newer operating systems. While initial sales occurred through specialized mountaineering vendors, digital versions require no registration for access, though prior CD owners can obtain free upgrades directly from the site.

Significance and Impact

Role in Mountaineering Research

The Himalayan Database serves as a foundational resource for research, enabling analyses of climbing trends, success rates, and safety outcomes across Nepal's high peaks. Scholars have utilized its comprehensive records of over 11,500 expeditions since to investigate factors influencing summit success and survival, such as climber , composition, and commercialization of expeditions. For instance, a study using data from 1970 to 2010 found that commercial expeditions had lower fatality rates (0.7%) compared to traditional ones (1.7%), though the difference was not statistically significant, and prior Himalayan was not associated with improved survival odds. Similarly, on expeditions from 1990 to 2005 revealed that the overall death rate has remained stable at approximately 1%, with older climbers over 60 facing elevated risks during descent. These findings underscore the database's role in quantifying trends like the 1:33 ratio of deaths to summits on Everest, informing discussions on physiological limits and risk mitigation in high-altitude climbing. Beyond academic studies, the database functions as a practical planning tool for mountaineers, offering searchable insights into route success rates, oxygen usage, and seasonal patterns to optimize expedition strategies. Climbers consult its records on historical impacts, camp locations, and previous outcomes to assess viability and reduce uncertainties, making it an invaluable aid for both and teams preparing for Himalayan ascents. Its data has also been referenced in media coverage of major incidents, such as the 2014 Khumbu Icefall avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas, providing context on prior accident patterns and hired personnel risks during setup phases. As a definitive historical archive, the database verifies key achievements, including first ascents and notable feats like Reinhold Messner's oxygen-free climbs in the 1970s and 1980s, through Elizabeth Hawley's meticulous interviews and expedition logs. This authoritative record influences recognition in mountaineering awards, such as the Piolet d'Or, where team members like Billi Bierling cross-reference ascents for eligibility and innovation assessments. On a broader scale, its data contributes to global safety compilations, including the (UIAA) reports on fatalities, and supports academic inquiries into environmental hazards tied to Himalayan , such as acute mountain sickness risks amid increasing visitor numbers.

Limitations and Criticisms

Despite its comprehensive scope, The Himalayan Database has notable coverage gaps, particularly for pre-1953 expeditions, where records are sparse due to limited documentation and fewer organized climbs before Nepal's borders opened to foreigners. The database primarily focuses on permitted expeditions, often excluding unpermitted or informal climbs, as well as solo ascents lacking witnesses or corroboration, which can overlook lesser-known attempts. Additionally, while Sherpa and Nepali achievements on major peaks like are recorded— with data showing 6,593 Sherpa summits compared to 6,285 by expedition members from 1950 to 2024—there is underrepresentation of local climbers' contributions on lower or trekking peaks, as reporting historically prioritized expedition leaders over support staff. Verification challenges arise from the database's reliance on self-reports, interviews, and climber correspondence, leading to occasional disputes over summit claims, such as the contested 2000 Everest ascent by Byron Smith, marked as "disputed" due to lack of photographic evidence and conflicting accounts. Similar issues affected the 1988 solo summit by , initially doubted and later verified after Hawley's acknowledgment of an error in judgment. Without real-time updates during climbing seasons, the database depends on post-season submissions, resulting in interim season lists that may contain inaccuracies until formal updates are released. Biases in the dataset stem from its emphasis on Western-led expeditions, as Elizabeth Hawley primarily interviewed foreign leaders, potentially marginalizing non-Western narratives and incomplete details on non-fatal incidents that were not formally reported. As of 2025, the continued use of manual from archives contributes to processing delays, with the most recent full update covering through Autumn-Winter 2024 released in June 2025, hindering timely access to current season data. Criticisms of the database often center on over-reliance on Hawley's subjective assessments, including her evaluations of climber credibility based on interviews and rather than , which some experts argue introduces personal . Throughout her career, Hawley faced detractors who questioned her authority due to her lack of personal climbing experience, viewing it as a limitation in assessing high-altitude claims. There have also been calls from mountaineering communities for future expansions to include data from and India's Himalayan regions, addressing the database's current restriction to Nepal-permitted peaks.

References

  1. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/
  2. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/history.html
  3. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/hawleybio.html
  4. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2018/2/7/elizabeth-hawley-1923-2018
  5. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-south-asia-10268549
  6. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/i-frighten-a-lot-of-people-everest-chronicler-elizabeth-hawley-92-tells-it-like-it-is
  7. https://explorersweb.com/remembering-elizabeth-hawley-the-sherlock-holmes-of-himalayan-summits/
  8. https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2018/a-peek-inside-the-himalayan-database-the-archives-of-elizabeth-hawley/
  9. https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/chronicler-everest-history-elizabeth-hawley-has-died/
  10. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214742/Elizabeth-Hawley-1923-2018
  11. https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/10/16/himalayan-database-now-free/
  12. http://www.himalayandatabase.com/hawleyobit.html
  13. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/updates.html
  14. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads.html
  15. https://himalayandatabase.com/downloads/HD%20Peak%20List.pdf
  16. https://www.alanarnette.com/everest/everest.php
  17. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/Himalayan%20Database%20Guide.pdf
  18. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/team.html
  19. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/online.html
  20. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/HD%20Online%20Guide.pdf
  21. https://towardsdatascience.com/visualizing-everest-expeditions-43b1ee922a34
  22. https://www.amazon.com/Himalaya-Numbers-Statistical-Analysis-Mountaineering/dp/9937506646
  23. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/support.html
  24. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3374484/
  25. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/Ever-BioLtrs1007.pdf
  26. https://www.reuters.com/graphics/NEPAL-EVEREST/0100B4S22JR/index.html
  27. https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2014/04/21/305505270/after-tragedy-nepalese-sherpas-may-refuse-to-climb-everest
  28. https://www.theuiaa.org/mountain-medicine/everest/
  29. https://planetlab.org/files/2025/02/Himalayan-Tourism_Ziegler-et-al.-2021-1.pdf
  30. https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/03/17/everest-2025-welcome-to-everest-2025-coverage/
  31. https://www.denverpost.com/2006/04/18/controversy-on-a-grand-scale/
  32. https://alpinist.com/features/the-mountain-of-data/
  33. https://www.himalayandatabase.com/seasonlists.html
  34. https://himalayandatabase.com/updates.html
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