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Marie Helvin
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Marie Helvin
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Marie Helvin (born August 13, 1952) is a British-based American former fashion model, who worked extensively with David Bailey, to whom she was married between 1975 and 1985. In the 1970s and 1980s, she appeared in many fashion stories for British Vogue and posed for a series of nude photographs made by Bailey, which were published in his 1980 book Trouble and Strife. They would collaborate on four more photographic books and continued to work on multiple stories for the British, French and Italian editions of Vogue.

Key Information

Biography

[edit]

Helvin was born in 1952 in Tokyo, where her American G.I. father of French and Danish descent had married a local interpreter of Japanese descent. She was brought up in Hawaii from the age of four.[1]

She was approached by a model scout on a visit to Japan with her mother and signed up as the face of Kanebo cosmetics at 15.[1] She moved to London, where she worked for designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Valentino,[2] and married photographer David Bailey when she was 23,[3] having met him when he chose her for a photographic session for Vogue.[4] Together Bailey and Helvin produced a book of nudes titled Trouble and Strife in 1980.[5] The marriage lasted ten years.[4]

In the 1980s, Helvin left mainstream modelling, working for television and radio, covering subjects from books to travel, which in turn led to major television, radio and advertising campaigns, such as for Yves Saint Laurent and Olympus cameras. She launched her own collection of body/swimwear range in 1990 and went on to produce seasonal collections. She published two books,[6][7] made a health and fitness video, appeared on television and presented several programmes including GMTV's series Helvin on Hawaii, which featured her philosophies on health and beauty.

In 2006 she appeared as a judge in Britain's Next Top Model, and with appearances in British Vogue and the US W magazine, features in Sunday Times, and a retrospective in Harper's Bazaar. She appeared on her 7th British Vogue cover in 2007. Her autobiography was released in late 2007 and published in paperback in September 2008. The Sunday Times called the book "funny, naughty, sexy, revelatory".[8]

Helvin returned to Japan to present a look at fashion and innovation in modern Japan in 'Marie Helvin's Tokyo', part of the Luxury Life series on CNBC. In February 2009, she launched Marks & Spencer PORTFOLIO fashion range for women in their fifties. In late 2009 she featured as the face of a new demi couture range of lingerie from Agent Provocateur, "Soiree". In December 2009, Helvin auctioned her personal collection of vintage clothing from the 1970s-1990s.

In January 2024, at the age of 65, Helvin posed for Bluebella Lingerie's Valentine's Day campaign.[9]

Bibliography

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Further reading

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References

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Marie Helvin

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Marie Helvin (born August 13, 1952) is a Japanese-American fashion model, author, and , renowned for her prominence as a during the and . Born in to an American father and Japanese mother, Helvin was raised in ; after being scouted during a visit to Japan at age 15 and beginning her modeling career as the face of Kanebo , she moved to in her late teens. She gained international fame through her extensive collaborations with British photographer , whom she married in 1975 at the age of 23 to secure a work permit; the couple divorced in 1985 after a decade of high-profile partnership that defined much of her early image. Helvin appeared on multiple covers of Vogue and worked with leading designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, , and Ungaro, becoming one of the era's most recognized faces for her exotic beauty and sensual style. Later in her career, she launched a line, authored an in 2007 detailing her life and friendships with figures like and , and presented television programs while advocating for older models in the industry. In , Helvin was diagnosed with stage 1 , undergoing a ; she has since recovered and returned to modeling at age 71, starring in campaigns for brands like Bluebella to promote and sensuality at any age.

Early Life

Birth and Family

Marie Helvin was born Marie Helvin on August 13, 1952, in , , to an American father and a Japanese mother. Her father, Hugh Helvin, was a U.S. serviceman originally from , who met her mother, Linda, a local interpreter and translator, while stationed in after . The family relocated to in 1956 when Helvin was four years old, settling on the island of Oahu, where her father transitioned to a career as an and, at one point, worked as a pilot. Helvin grew up in a close-knit but unconventional as one of four siblings, including sisters Naomi and Suzon, and brother ; her sister Suzon tragically died at age 23 in a bicycling accident in . The family dynamics were marked by her father's radical leftist views and opposition to the , fostering an environment of independence and resourcefulness amid Hawaii's diverse cultural landscape. None of the siblings chose to have children, a pattern Helvin has attributed to possible underlying family influences. Her mother's Japanese heritage contributed to Helvin's mixed-race background, which she later reflected on as both a source of during her and a trailblazing aspect of her modeling career. In her childhood on Oahu, Helvin experienced a free-spirited upbringing, often going barefoot until the age of 13 and immersing herself in the island's natural beauty and multicultural surroundings, shaped by the presence of military bases and immigrant communities. This period instilled an early appreciation for adventure and diversity, though she has hinted at underlying challenges, including suspicions of unresolved . By her teenage years in Hawaiian high schools, Helvin began developing confidence in her unique features, setting the stage for her discovery by a modeling scout at age 15 during a trip back to .

Discovery and Relocation

At the age of 15 in 1967, Marie Helvin was discovered by a model scout while on a trip to with her mother, leading to her signing as the face of the Japanese cosmetics Kanebo shortly thereafter. This opportunity marked her entry into the modeling world, capitalizing on her striking Eurasian features—born to an American father and Japanese mother—and her upbringing in . With encouragement from her family, who supported her ambitions despite her youth, Helvin began building experience through initial work in , including campaigns that showcased her natural appeal in beauty and contexts. Two years later, in 1969 at age 17, Helvin relocated to after being invited by representatives connected to designer Kansai Yamamoto, who was staging fashion shows there and recognized her potential for the international scene. The move represented a significant shift, transitioning her from the laid-back, tropical lifestyle of —where she had been raised since age four—to the bustling, fast-paced environment of Swinging . Her family provided emotional backing for this bold step, viewing it as a chance to pursue her passion professionally. Upon arriving in , Helvin faced the rigors of establishing herself in a competitive industry, starting with smaller-scale assignments such as catalog modeling and preliminary editorials that emphasized her exotic allure through and beach-inspired themes reminiscent of her Hawaiian roots. These early gigs, often for British publications and emerging designers, helped her compile a portfolio while she navigated cultural adjustments, including the contrast between Hawaii's warmth and 's cooler climate. By , her presence began attracting notice in the British press, solidifying her foothold as she collaborated with photographers like Barry Lategan and appeared in features for , leveraging her unique look to stand out among the era's predominantly Western models.

Modeling Career

Beginnings in Hawaii and London

Helvin began her professional modeling career at the age of 15 in 1967, when she was discovered during a family trip to and signed as the face of the cosmetics brand Kanebo. Raised in since the age of four, she returned there to commence her initial assignments, which included local magazine covers and beachwear shoots that emphasized her striking features and exotic appeal as a mixed-race Hawaiian beauty. Her lithe 5-foot-9-inch frame, long dark brown hair, and hazel eyes quickly established her as a standout in swimwear and emerging high-fashion contexts. In 1970, at age 18, Helvin relocated to to advance her career, obtaining a three-month through British modeling agents. She soon debuted on the runway, notably for Japanese designer Kansai Yamamoto, where editor spotted her during a dynamic show involving skipping, running, and jumping. This led to her first editorial in 1971, marking her entry into prestigious magazine work and early collaborations with British designers. As one of the few mixed-race models in the late and early industry, Helvin encountered racial biases, particularly in the predominantly white American fashion scene, but her unique Japanese-American heritage positioned her as an "exotic" asset, gaining favor with European designers and publications over traditional blond, blue-eyed archetypes. By 1970, she had achieved sufficient bookings in to support herself independently, building a foundation through runway appearances and editorials that honed her signature poised, sensual style in both high-fashion and swimwear genres.

Rise with David Bailey

Helvin first encountered renowned photographer David Bailey in 1971, when the British Vogue editor arranged for her to participate in a Brazilian-themed photoshoot, prompting Bailey to review her portfolio at his studio. This initial meeting quickly evolved into a professional collaboration, as Bailey began booking her for frequent photoshoots that highlighted her exotic features and poised sensuality, establishing her as his primary muse and shaping her signature "Bailey's girl" image of poised allure and subtle eroticism. Their partnership marked a pivotal breakthrough for Helvin, transitioning her from an emerging talent in London's fashion scene to a central figure in high-profile editorial work. A landmark in their collaboration was the 1971 Vogue cover and accompanying spreads, shot in a makeshift tropical setting at a Parsons Green studio despite the winter chill, which portrayed Helvin in vibrant, holiday-inspired attire that emphasized her as an enigmatic, sensual presence. Subsequent sessions pushed boundaries further, incorporating bold elements like black satin with daring exposures, redefining erotic by blending artistic with commercial elegance and influencing the genre's shift toward more intimate, body-focused narratives in the 1970s. Bailey's direction—insisting on signature styling such as and high heels—amplified Helvin's exotic appeal, resulting in images that captured her as both accessible and aspirational. After four years of intense creative , their professional and personal partnership profoundly influenced her career trajectory, as Bailey's endorsements and joint endeavors elevated her visibility, securing her position among the era's elite models while fostering innovative projects that explored form and desire. This union transformed Helvin from a promising newcomer into an emblem of glamour, with Bailey himself crediting her as the catalyst for his artistic evolution: "Marie changed my style of taking pictures… I began experimenting with nudes, with the body," marking a creative peak inspired by her presence and intellect.

International Fame and Peak

During the 1970s, Marie Helvin's modeling career expanded significantly on the international stage, with frequent features in prestigious publications such as U.S. Vogue and . Her distinctive look—half Japanese and half American—made her one of the most in-demand models of the decade, often photographed in bold styles like and psychedelic print dresses that captured the era's vibrant spirit. Helvin traveled extensively to fashion hubs including New York, , and , solidifying her presence in global campaigns and editorials that showcased her exotic allure. Iconic moments defined her ascent, including runway appearances for Yves Saint Laurent, where designers sought her to reflect diverse ethnic influences in their collections during an otherwise Eurocentric fashion landscape. Her partnership with photographer further amplified her visibility through striking images in . Helvin's ethnic ambiguity challenged prevailing beauty norms, paving the way for greater representation of non-Western features in high fashion and influencing subsequent generations of models. By the 1980s, Helvin reached the zenith of her career, gracing the covers of Vogue multiple times and accumulating numerous magazine appearances worldwide that cemented her status as a supermodel. Critics and photographers alike dubbed her "the most beautiful woman in the world," a testament to her commanding presence and versatility in an era of evolving glamour. Her earnings reflected her elite position, aligning with top model rates as she continued to dominate international bookings and editorials. This period underscored her enduring impact, as her unique beauty helped broaden industry standards amid shifting cultural dynamics.

Later Career and Comebacks

In the 1990s, Helvin experienced a significant reduction in modeling opportunities due to prevalent in the industry, leading her to largely step away from full-time work around age 40 in 1992, as there were few roles available for women considered "too old." Despite this shift, she participated in occasional high-profile photoshoots, maintaining a selective presence in the industry while transitioning toward other pursuits like writing and television. During the and , Helvin made guest appearances on runways, including at events like the 2016 Fifty Plus in , where she walked for designer Josh Birch Jones, signaling her ongoing relevance in age-inclusive fashion platforms. She also featured in photoshoots tied to her publications, such as promotional imagery for her 2007 autobiography Marie Helvin: An Autobiography, which helped sustain her visibility. Although she contemplated retirement in the mid-2000s, expressing plans to "quietly fade away" to , Helvin remained active, rejecting full withdrawal and continuing sporadic modeling engagements. In the 2020s, Helvin faced financial difficulties exacerbated by the , which depleted her savings and led her to consider taking a job as a in 2022 to make ends meet. This period marked a notable comeback, highlighted by her role as the face of Bluebella's lingerie campaign in 2024 at age 71, where she posed in empowering sets to challenge age discrimination and promote body positivity for older women. By 2025, at age 73, Helvin continued her professional resurgence, earning recognition on HELLO! magazine's inaugural Second Act Power List for inspiring midlife women through her enduring career and resilience. She maintained an active modeling schedule, including catwalk appearances during , such as for Josh Birch Jones' SS25 collection, demonstrating her commitment to defying age-related stereotypes in the industry.

Personal Life

Marriage to David Bailey

Marie Helvin met in the early 1970s during a shoot at his studio, where their professional interactions quickly evolved into a personal romance amid the vibrant scene. Their courtship, spanning from around 1970 to 1975, was marked by an intense shared creative world, with Bailey frequently booking Helvin for shoots that highlighted her exotic beauty. In late 1975, Bailey proposed to her at the San Lorenzo restaurant in , playfully writing "Mrs Bailey" in pencil inside her passport, encouraged by the restaurant's owner. They married on November 3, 1975, at St. Pancras Register Office in , followed by a honeymoon in arranged by Helvin's mother. The couple settled into married life in Bailey's dramatic home in , , a space with black-painted walls and a purple bedroom. Their social circle in the included high-profile figures like of , , Paul and , and , with the house serving as a hub for constant visitors and lively gatherings. Professionally, the marriage benefited Helvin through exclusive photographic collaborations, such as the 1980 nude portfolio Trouble and Strife, though it also introduced strains from Bailey's serial infidelity and the pressures of celebrity life. The couple attempted to start a but had no children, as Helvin prioritized her and Bailey did not press the issue, later reflecting that she had never been particularly interested in motherhood. By the early , the had deteriorated due to growing emotional distance, mutual infidelities—Helvin sought after her sister's death—and Bailey's deepening affair with model , whom he met while still married. They separated around 1983 but finalized their divorce in 1985 after ten years together, an amicable split that resulted in a £100,000 settlement for Helvin. Helvin cited the affairs and their drifting apart as key factors, yet emphasized there was no lasting bitterness, noting their ongoing friendship and her acceptance of Bailey's "unacceptable behavior" during the relationship.

Subsequent Relationships

In the mid-1980s, following her separation from , Marie Helvin entered into a four-year relationship with conservationist , the brother of Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall. Shand proposed marriage, but Helvin declined, later describing him as "the sweetest, kindest, most loving person" despite her youth and foolishness at the time. Their romance, which began overlapping with the end of her marriage to Bailey, involved social circles that intertwined with royalty; Helvin introduced Princess Diana to at an AIDS Trust ball in 1989. In the late 1980s, Helvin had brief relationships with several high-profile figures, including Warren and a rumored encounter with . She also dated Egyptian businessman around 1988 and had a short liaison with Jack that year, after years of flirtation. These connections reflected Helvin's attraction to charismatic, adventurous men in entertainment and elite social scenes, often involving travel and glamorous events. The 1990s saw Helvin in relationships with musician (1990–1991), chef (1990), cricketer and future Pakistani Prime Minister (rumored in 1991), and singer (1993). Khan, in particular, was noted for his magnetic appeal, with Helvin once commenting on his irresistible charm in London's social whirl. These partnerships continued her pattern of involvement with prominent, "naughty" figures from , , and , emphasizing and excitement over long-term commitment. Helvin has not remarried since her divorce from Bailey and has emphasized her independence in later interviews, stating she desires intimacy but not marriage. In her 70s, she reported a casual fling with a younger Frenchman that boosted her libido post-breast cancer treatment, aligning with her preference for younger partners who are less intimidated. This approach underscores a lifelong pattern of selective, passionate connections with high-profile, adventurous men, often tied to global travel and vibrant social milieus, without pursuing permanence.

Health Challenges

Throughout her modeling career, Marie Helvin maintained a rigorous fitness regimen, including daily exercise, , and weight training, while adhering to a free of alcohol and , which she credited for keeping her body in optimal condition. In September 2022, at the age of 70, Helvin discovered a lump in her right breast while exercising, prompting her to seek medical attention; tests confirmed stage 1 . She underwent a shortly thereafter, which she described as a life-saving procedure, followed by . Due to the early detection, no or radiotherapy was required. Helvin's recovery was marked by emotional challenges, including shock given her healthy lifestyle, but she emphasized the importance of early detection in interviews, noting her good fortune in avoiding more aggressive treatments. By 2023, she had fully recovered and was declared cancer-free, with no reported recurrence as of late 2024. Following her recovery, Helvin resumed her professional life, including a 2024 lingerie modeling campaign at age 71, where she expressed continued feelings of sensuality and body confidence despite the physical changes from surgery.

Writing and Media Work

Autobiography and Books

Marie Helvin's debut book, The Autobiography, published in 2007 by , chronicles her journey from a childhood in to international fame as a model. The candidly explores her early life, rise in the industry, and marriage to photographer , offering behind-the-scenes insights into the modeling world of the 1970s and 1980s, including friendships with figures like , , and . Illustrated with photographs by renowned photographers such as Bailey, , and Nick Knight, the book draws heavily from Helvin's personal archives to provide a visual narrative alongside her reflections. In addition to her autobiography, Helvin has authored other works that reflect her experiences in and wellness. Her 1985 book Catwalk: The Art of Model Style, published by Pavilion Books, examines the and techniques of modeling through her professional lens. She also co-authored Bodypure: Your Complete Detox Health and Beauty Programme in 1995, a guide developed with health experts focusing on methods for physical and aesthetic . Helvin's writing style is characterized by a candid and empowering tone, emphasizing and independence while revealing vulnerabilities from her career and personal life. Reviewers have noted the memoir's lucid and star-studded quality, highlighting its honest portrayal of a glamorous yet challenging existence in high . The book has been praised for its engaging narrative that demystifies the industry's inner workings without .

Television and Public Appearances

Helvin's television career began in the 1980s with a guest appearance on the British biographical series This Is Your Life, where she featured in the 1985 episode dedicated to fashion designer . In the early 2000s, she transitioned to presenting roles, hosting the lifestyle series Helvin on Hawaii in 2003, which explored her personal philosophies on health, beauty, and Hawaiian culture. During the mid-2000s, Helvin contributed to fashion-focused programming as a judge on the inaugural season of the reality competition in 2005, offering guidance to aspiring models alongside host . She continued appearing in documentaries, including the 2010 film David Bailey: Four Beats to the Bar and No Cheating, which highlighted her ex-husband's photography career and their shared influence on 1970s fashion. In the 2020s, Helvin's media presence shifted toward personal narratives, particularly following her 2022 diagnosis and , which she publicly addressed to raise awareness. She detailed the experience in a December 2022 interview with the , emphasizing early detection and resilience. By 2024, she expanded on themes of aging, , and sensuality after her in interviews, such as one with The Telegraph, where she affirmed, "I'm always going to feel sensual in my own skin," while promoting campaigns that celebrated midlife confidence. A similar discussion appeared in Yahoo Life, underscoring her commitment to health advocacy through media. Helvin has also engaged in at charity events and panels focused on , drawing from her experiences to inspire audiences on and aging gracefully. In April 2022, she appeared as a guest on The Third Act , sharing insights into her career, relationships, and views on sensuality in later life. More recently, on November 9, 2025, she attended and spoke at HELLO! magazine's Second Act Power List event in , delivering remarks on midlife empowerment as one of the honored figures celebrating women over 40.

Legacy and Recent Activities

Influence on Fashion

Marie Helvin, born to a Japanese mother and an American father of French and Danish descent, emerged as a pioneering mixed-race model in the , when the industry was predominantly white-dominated. Her Eurasian features represented a daring departure from conventional beauty standards, gracing covers and editorials in and challenging the era's narrow ideals of glamour. This visibility helped inspire greater diversity in high-fashion representations during the Vogue-dominated , paving the way for more inclusive casting in subsequent decades. As an icon of sensuality, Helvin embodied the lingering spirit of Swinging London's liberated aesthetic, particularly through her collaborations with photographer , her husband from 1975 to 1985. Her nude photography series, including the 1980 book Trouble and Strife, popularized a bold, edge in fashion imagery that influenced lingerie and swimwear trends, emphasizing confidence and allure in intimate apparel—elements echoed in contemporary campaigns featuring mature, empowered women. Helvin has long advocated for age-inclusive modeling, using her platform to combat industry and promote sensuality across life stages. Her continued work, from a 2015 campaign at age 62 to a 2024 Bluebella shoot at 71, has demonstrated that transcends , contributing to shifting perceptions toward mature representation in . Her enduring legacy was affirmed in 2025 when she was named to HELLO! magazine's Second Act Power List, recognizing her as a powerful figure for midlife women engaged in global change. At the event, Helvin stated, "For me, being a powerful woman means being engaged with what's happening in the world and being part of global change." Helvin has received multiple accolades for her beauty, including being hailed as one of the most beautiful women of her generation during her peak years.

Charitable Involvement and Current Endeavors

Marie Helvin has been a longstanding supporter of , participating in numerous campaigns over the years, including fashion shows organized by Breakthrough Breast Cancer to raise funds and promote early detection. Following her stage-one diagnosis in September 2022, which led to a and reconstruction, Helvin has intensified her advocacy, sharing her personal experience to encourage self-examinations and support survivors, motivated by her own health challenges and a desire to destigmatize the disease among . In addition to health-related philanthropy, Helvin has contributed to broader efforts addressing ageism in the fashion industry, using her platform to champion diversity in representation for women over 50 by modeling and speaking out against discriminatory practices that render mature women "invisible." As of 2025, Helvin remains active in modeling, strutting catwalks and fronting campaigns that emphasize and sensuality at 73, including recent work with brands like Bluebella. Looking ahead, Helvin continues to inspire through public appearances and interviews where she promotes embracing sensuality and confidence in later life, though she maintains a low-key personal presence, relying instead on media outlets to amplify her message of graceful aging.

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