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Moynat
Moynat
from Wikipedia

Moynat (French pronunciation: [mwana]) is a Parisian trunkmaker, founded in Paris in 1849 by Octavie and François Coulembier.[1] They collaborated with specialist Pauline Moynat in travel goods to open the company's first store at Avenue de l'Opera, France. The house participated in various World's Fairs.[2]

Key Information

History

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Early years

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The House of Moynat was the result of a meeting between Pauline Moynat, who sold travel goods in the Opera district of Paris, and the Coulembier family, manufacturers from the faubourgs—the inner suburbs to the north of the city.[3]

In 1849, the trunk makers opened their first atelier. They joined with Pauline Moynat to open the Moynat boutique in 1869 on what was then the Place du Théâtre Français (now the Place André Malraux), opposite the famous Comédie-Française.[3]

Moynat patented its first inventions for packaging materials in 1854. The label was the first to use hardened gutta-percha waterproofing to produce its trunks and packing boxes. In 1870, Moynat brought out the wicker trunk, known as the "English trunk" or "Moynat trunk".[4] The boutique was situated at the center of Haussmann's redesigned Paris. Following the construction of the Avenue de l'Opéra in 1876, it took pride of place at path number 1.

1905–1976

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Collaboration with Henri Rapin

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The Coulembier brothers, Moynat directors, 1906
The Moynat factory, rue Coysevox in 1907

In 1889, Jules Coulembier created a new system of lightweight trunks, followed in 1910 by the invention of an extra-light model.[5] The House of Moynat also produced a series of security mechanisms for its trunks.[5]

In 1905, the Moynat began a long-lasting collaboration with Henri Rapin. Rapin designed the logos of the House, the Moynat monogram, illustrated the product catalogues and conceived the models presented at universal and international exhibitions.[citation needed] In 1907, the Coulembier family began construction on a model factory at 15 rue Coysevox up at Montmartre.[citation needed]

Moynat was a regular participant in the World's Fairs since the second edition in Paris in 1867. The house also took part in the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1900, Brussels in 1910,[6] was appointed jury member at the Turin exhibition in 1911 and was awarded two gold medals and two special prizes at Ghent in 1913.[7] In 1925, Moynat broke the record at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels,[8] where its automobile trunks were awarded a Diplôme d’Honneur by its peers together with gold, silver and bronze medals.[9]

1989–present

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Orcofi, the Vuitton family's holding company, bought Malles et Voyages in 1989, following the disposal of the bulk of its shares in LVMH. Orcofi's CEO, Vuitton's former President Henry Racamier (1912–2003), had planned to relaunch Moynat as a competitor to Louis Vuitton. However, Orcofi was eventually sold to AXA in 1996.[citation needed]

Luxury goods holding company, Luvanis SA, bought the rights into Moynat in the late 2000s, developed a revival plan and assigned the brand to Groupe Arnault. LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault's holding company bought Moynat in 2010.[10] In December 2011, Moynat reopened with a store at 348 Rue Saint-Honoré,[11][12] followed by shops in London in 2014,[13] Hong Kong,[14] Beijing in 2015, Tokyo,[15] New York,[16] Seoul,[17] Taipei in 2016, Singapore in 2017[18] and Dubai in 2018.[19]

Nicholas Knightly was hired as its new creative director in November of 2022.[20] In December 2022, musician Pharrell Williams partnered on the launch of a bag in collaboration with Moynat.[21]

In 2023, Moynat scheduled a world tour, the Moynat World Tour.[1][22][23] It consists of a roving pop-up.[1] The tour launched in Paris at Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche on February 18.[24] The tour also celebrated and coincided with the 103rd anniversary of Moynats Toile 1920 M, the canvas that is used for their made-to-order luggage.[1][24][25]

See also

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References

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Bibliography

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
Moynat is a prestigious French luxury leather goods maison founded in 1849 by Pauline Moynat in , renowned for its pioneering trunk-making innovations and exceptional artisanal craftsmanship in haute maroquinerie. Specializing initially in lightweight, waterproof travel trunks tailored for the burgeoning era of rail and automobile journeys, the house introduced groundbreaking designs such as the Malle Anglaise in 1873 and the first waterproof trunk using in 1854. Pauline Moynat, a visionary entrepreneur who established the brand's first boutique at 1 Avenue de l'Opéra in 1869, built a legacy of technical excellence that attracted elite clientele, including royalty and celebrities. After a period of dormancy following its closure in amid shifting travel trends, Moynat was revitalized in under the ownership of , with a focus on preserving its heritage while expanding into contemporary handbag collections like the M Collection and Gabrielle line, featuring signature elements such as the 'M' monogram designed by artist Henri Rapin in 1905. Today, headquartered at 348 in and led by CEO Lisa Attia, the maison produces limited-edition pieces using rare materials and traditional techniques, maintaining exclusive boutiques worldwide, including a recent expansion to 34 in June 2025. Despite reporting financial losses exceeding €30 million in recent years, Moynat continues to innovate through high-profile collaborations, such as its 2025 capsule collection with artist Kasing Lung, reinforcing its status as a pillar of quiet luxury within the portfolio.

History

Founding and Early Development (1849–1904)

Moynat was founded in 1849 by Pauline Moynat, a pioneering entrepreneur in the male-dominated field of trunk-making, in with Octavie Coulembier and her husband François Coulembier to establish the company's first workshop. As layetiers-packers specializing in travel goods, they capitalized on the rapid expansion of France's railway network during the mid-19th century, which spurred demand for durable, custom-made trunks to transport personal belongings securely over long distances. The initial was located at rue Capron in Paris's 18th arrondissement, where artisans crafted high-quality wooden chests and boxes using premium leathers sourced from local tanneries, emphasizing waterproofing techniques like coating introduced as early as 1854. The enterprise quickly gained traction through its services, attracting an elite clientele among the French aristocracy and international travelers frequenting Paris's burgeoning luxury scene. By the , the brand's reputation for led to partnerships, including with Pauline Moynat in 1869, who opened the first Moynat at 1 Avenue de l'Opéra—a prime location amid Baron Haussmann's urban renovations—further elevating its status as a go-to supplier for custom travel accessories. Throughout the late 19th century, Moynat experienced steady growth, expanding its operations with additional workshops and securing patents for groundbreaking designs, such as the wicker-framed "English trunk" in 1873 and participation in the 1867 Exposition Universelle, where it showcased lightweight, versatile luggage. By the 1880s, the company had established multiple locations across , including a prominent flagship on , and began initial exports to European markets, catering to the continent's affluent railway enthusiasts and reinforcing its position as a leader in haute maroquinerie. This period laid the groundwork for Moynat's evolution from a specialized trunk-maker to a symbol of Parisian elegance in travel goods.

Peak Innovation and Collaborations (1905–1976)

In 1905, Moynat forged a transformative collaboration with French architect and designer Henri Rapin, who assumed the role of until 1930 and profoundly shaped the brand's aesthetic identity. Rapin redesigned the house's logo, infusing it with -inspired motifs that emphasized geometric elegance and modernity, while introducing the iconic "M" monogram in 1920—a stylized interlocking of the letter "M" that was hand-painted on canvas coverings for immediate brand recognition. His contributions extended to product illustrations in catalogues and the creation of an award-winning trunk featuring red Moroccan leather adorned with floral patterns, which earned the Diplôme d’Honneur at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. Rapin's visionary approach blended functionality with artistic flair, positioning Moynat at the forefront of luxury travel goods during the . Building on these creative foundations, Moynat advanced its technical innovations to meet the demands of evolving transportation modes. The house introduced lightweight aluminum frames in designs like the 1905 limousine trunk, a curved model specifically engineered for automobiles to ensure portability and structural integrity on roads. Complementing this, Moynat enhanced waterproofing with linings derived from , a natural rubberized fabric sourced from Indonesian tree gum, which provided superior protection against moisture for long-distance journeys. By the , the brand developed modular trunk systems tailored for automobiles and emerging needs, including the Entre-Pneu Trunk of 1906 and rear-mounted automobile variants around 1920, allowing customizable configurations for secure storage in vehicles and . Rapin's influence also drove Moynat's expansion beyond traditional trunks into leather accessories, prioritizing elegant yet practical designs suited to the modern traveler. This era saw the proliferation of handbags and cases, often featuring the new and refined leatherwork that balanced aesthetic sophistication with everyday utility, as illustrated in Rapin's catalogues from 1905 to 1925. These pieces exemplified the house's commitment to haute maroquinerie, drawing on Rapin's light-hearted yet precise style to appeal to an affluent clientele seeking versatile luxury items. The brand sustained its prestige as a supplier of travel essentials to high-profile figures in and royalty, continuing operations until its closure in 1976.

Dormancy and Revival (1976–2010)

By the mid-1970s, Moynat faced insurmountable challenges from shifting travel norms and material innovations, leading to the closure of its last Paris boutique in 1976. The rise of commercial , exemplified by the jumbo jet era, demanded lighter, more compact luggage that rendered traditional heavy trunks obsolete, drastically reducing demand for Moynat's signature products. Concurrently, the luxury luggage industry saw the proliferation of synthetic materials like ABS and , which offered durable, affordable alternatives to artisanal goods and further eroded the market for heritage brands like Moynat. With operations ceasing entirely, the company's archives were dispersed among private hands, leaving scant institutional records of its techniques and designs. During the subsequent decades of dormancy in the and , Moynat's legacy persisted through the efforts of private collectors who preserved vintage trunks and bags, often acquired via estate sales or specialist dealers. These artifacts occasionally surfaced in high-profile auctions, such as those at and , where rare Moynat pieces fetched notable sums among enthusiasts of and early 20th-century luxury. Sporadic exhibitions of Moynat items also appeared in fashion retrospectives, highlighting the brand's historical innovations and sustaining niche interest without any active commercial revival. The brand's resurgence began in 2009 when chairman , through his personal , initiated scouting efforts to acquire dormant luxury names, identifying Moynat for its untapped heritage potential. In 2010, Arnault secured the rights from prior owners in a legal process that involved negotiating with multiple stakeholders who had held the brand intermittently since 1976. Businessman Guillaume Davin was appointed to lead the revival project, focusing on reconstructing the maison's savoir-faire by sourcing retired artisans and reverse-engineering techniques from surviving vintage examples scattered in collections worldwide. This effort culminated in the 2011 reopening of Moynat's flagship boutique at 348 in , a historic location, meticulously restored to evoke its grandeur with period-appropriate fixtures and displays of revived archival designs. Challenges abounded, including the scarcity of original patterns and the need to train new craftsmen in lost methods like specialized leather patination, all while ensuring fidelity to Moynat's pre-1976 ethos without modern overhauls. The relaunch marked a cautious bridge from obscurity to renewed artisanal prominence, setting the stage for controlled expansion.

Contemporary Expansion (2010–present)

Following its acquisition by in 2010, Moynat was relaunched in December 2011 with the opening of its at 348 in , introducing new collections that merged the maison's heritage in trunk-making with contemporary designs such as the Réjane and Grenelle models. This revival marked a strategic focus on artisanal leather goods, achieving estimated annual revenues of approximately €50 million by 2021 through selective expansion and emphasis on understated elegance. Key milestones in international growth included the 2016 debut of Moynat's first U.S. boutique on in New York, enhancing its presence in , followed by a digital pivot with the launch of its platform in March 2021 to broaden accessibility amid post-COVID market shifts. In 2023, Moynat initiated a global "World Tour" campaign, prioritizing as its fastest-growing region with new store openings and targeted activations in cities like , aligning with rising demand for heritage luxury in emerging markets. Recent innovations have encompassed sustainable practices under LVMH's broader LIFE 360 environmental program, launched in 2020, which includes responsible sourcing for Moynat's leathers, alongside limited-edition releases such as the 2024 holiday collection in collaboration with graphic designer Kazumasa Nagai to commemorate the maison's enduring legacy. Marking its 175th anniversary in 2024 from its 1849 founding, Moynat introduced anniversary-inspired pieces that reinforced its commitment to innovation while honoring historical motifs. In July 2025, Moynat expanded its presence with a new boutique at 34 in the Golden Triangle, featuring an exclusive 34M limited-edition capsule collection of tote bags. Later in 2025, the maison launched a capsule collection in collaboration with artist Kasing Lung, incorporating his iconic "Monsters" characters like Labubu, Zimomo, and King Mon onto signature M canvas pieces, debuting in in October to celebrate the 10th anniversary of The Monsters series. As of November 2025, Moynat operates 29 stand-alone boutiques across 12 countries, with estimated annual revenue of €35-50 million as of early 2025, despite reported cumulative financial losses exceeding €30 million in recent years. Under CEO Lisa Attia, appointed in 2020, the maison continues to prioritize heritage preservation through curated collections and selective global boutiques, gaining prominence in the quiet luxury trend for its discreet sophistication and timeless craftsmanship.

Products and Craftsmanship

Iconic Leather Goods and Trunks

Moynat's legacy in leather goods is epitomized by its pioneering trunks, which revolutionized luxury travel in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The English Trunk, introduced in 1873 by founder Pauline Moynat, was the first to incorporate waterproof canvas coated with gutta-percha, a natural rubber derivative, offering unprecedented protection for long journeys by train or sea. This innovation quickly became a commercial success and set the standard for durable, lightweight luggage. A standout among these is the Limousine Trunk, patented in 1902, featuring an ergonomic curved shape designed to conform to the rounded contours of early automobiles, ensuring secure placement on vehicle roofs without damage. Collaborations with designers like Henri Rapin, who crafted the brand's signature M monogram in the early 1900s, elevated these pieces with artistic leather marquetry and refined hardware, such as the iconic lock. Modern reproductions of the Curved Trunk maintain this heritage, handcrafted in ateliers using traditional techniques for collectors seeking travel wardrobes. Transitioning from trunks to personal accessories, Moynat's contemporary collection revives archival silhouettes with meticulous craftsmanship. The Réjane , originally conceived in 1903 as one of the maison's first dedicated women's bags, draws from early 20th-century and is reinterpreted in supple or exotic leathers like , featuring structured lines and signature M hardware for versatile day-to-evening use. The Grenelle bucket bag embodies relaxed sophistication, with its slouchy form in grained secured by a drawstring and leather cord handle, allowing for effortless casual styling while preserving the house's refined aesthetic. The Oh! mini bag, a compact icon in the lineup, offers a playful yet polished profile in smooth or exotic variants, complete with a detachable strap and subtle detailing for on-the-go luxury. Complementing these are Moynat's small leather goods, which extend the brand's expertise to everyday essentials. Wallets and card holders, often in monogrammed or polished , incorporate the 1920s M pattern designed by Rapin, with options for hot-stamping initials or custom engravings to create personalized pieces. Belts feature sleek weaves and adjustable buckles echoing trunk hardware, while silk scarves bear subtle monogram motifs in vibrant or tonal prints, ideal for versatile accessorizing. Customization remains a cornerstone, with artisans offering tailored modifications like color-matching leathers or embroidered details directly in boutiques. At its core, Moynat embodies "quiet luxury," prioritizing subtle sophistication and heritage over ostentatious branding, a philosophy that distinguishes it from flashier contemporaries through impeccable materials and understated elegance. Pricing reflects this exclusivity, starting at approximately €1,000 for small leather goods like wallets and ranging to €4,000–€5,000 for signature handbags such as the Réjane, with trunks exceeding €20,000 depending on materials and specifications.

Technical Innovations in Design

In the 19th century, Moynat pioneered waterproofing techniques for travel trunks, patenting the first waterproof model in 1854 by coating it with gutta-percha, a natural latex gum sourced from Indonesia, to shield contents from rain and dust during long journeys. This innovation, applied to the English Trunk introduced in 1873, marked the debut of waterproof canvas in luxury luggage, enhancing durability for the era's expanding rail and sea travel. Entering the early , Moynat advanced structural reinforcements and security features, incorporating custom metallic locks and closures designed exclusively for the maison, including the distinctive "" mechanism and patented trunk locks that provided enhanced protection against tampering. These developments coincided with numerous patents registered for and automobile luggage, reflecting the house's adaptation to motorized travel while maintaining lightweight yet robust construction. In contemporary designs, Moynat employs vegetable-tanned leathers, such as lamb and bullcalf varieties, which utilize natural plant-based tannins for a more sustainable tanning process that avoids harsh chemicals and develops a rich patina over time. Personalization is achieved through hand-engraving and painting techniques, allowing clients to add initials, dates, or motifs directly onto leather or metal hardware for bespoke detailing. Limited-edition pieces incorporate hybrid materials, such as carbon fiber accents in modern trunks, blending traditional craftsmanship with advanced composites for reduced weight and contemporary aesthetics. In 2025, Moynat released a capsule collection in collaboration with artist Kasing Lung, incorporating unique artistic motifs into handbags and accessories. Moynat's artisanal processes emphasize hand-stitching using saddlery methods, particularly the saddle stitch—a double-needle technique originating from equestrian leatherwork—that ensures exceptional strength and precision on seams, handles, and edges. These techniques are preserved in the atelier, where a dedicated team of skilled artisans upholds the maison's heritage savoir-faire in every piece.

Ownership and Operations

Acquisition by LVMH

In 2010, Groupe Arnault, the private holding company of LVMH CEO , acquired the dormant Moynat brand for an undisclosed sum, securing its trademarks and rights after a period of ownership transitions following the company's closure in 1976. This move effectively integrated Moynat into the ecosystem, though managed separately through Arnault's personal investment vehicle to preserve its independent heritage status. The strategic rationale behind the acquisition centered on 's broader mission to resurrect historic luxury houses with deep artisanal roots, positioning Moynat—founded in 1849, five years before —as a complementary asset to its flagship leather goods brands. By providing substantial resources, enabled the restoration of Moynat's traditional craftsmanship techniques, including the revival of archival designs and the rebuilding of specialized for trunks and handbags. This approach mirrored successful revivals within the group, emphasizing exclusivity and historical authenticity to appeal to discerning collectors rather than mass-market consumers. Following the acquisition, invested in operational revitalization, including the establishment of a dedicated in to train artisans in Moynat's signature methods, such as innovative trunk constructions from the early . Moynat was incorporated into 's Fashion & Leather Goods division, gaining access to the group's global and distribution networks, which facilitated controlled international expansion starting with a reopening in at 348 in December 2011. These changes marked the brand's immediate shift from obscurity to a curated revival, with production focused on limited-edition pieces to maintain scarcity and prestige. Financially, the post-acquisition period saw steady growth through LVMH's backing, enabling Moynat to scale operations while prioritizing quality over volume; by , the brand had expanded to select international outposts, underscoring the investment's success in reestablishing market presence without compromising its ethos. However, as of 2025, the maison has reported financial losses exceeding €30 million in recent years.

Leadership and Organizational Structure

Lisa Attia has served as CEO of Moynat since March 2020, bringing over a decade of experience within the group, including her role as senior vice president of merchandising and image for Europe at . Under her leadership, Moynat has prioritized expansion in , targeting new clientele through strategic market rejuvenation efforts. Nicholas Knightly was appointed creative director in July 2020, drawing from his prior position as leather goods design director at since 2004. He oversees the design process, integrating Moynat's archival heritage with contemporary elements to create collections that honor the maison's trunk-making legacy while appealing to modern luxury consumers. Knightly collaborates closely with the in-house design team and artisans to develop pieces that blend traditional techniques with innovative forms. Moynat's organizational structure is headquartered at 348 in , operating as part of LVMH's Fashion & Leather Goods division, with direct reporting to group executives such as , who serves as chairman and president of Moynat. The company employs approximately 150 to 200 people globally, supporting operations across retail, , and production. Specialized ateliers in handle prototyping and craftsmanship, where prototypists transform sketches into tangible models using high-precision techniques to ensure fidelity to the maison's standards. The board includes representatives, with Toledano providing oversight aligned with the group's strategic priorities in luxury fashion. Moynat emphasizes artisan development through 's Institut des Métiers d'Excellence, a work-study program that trains young talents in leather goods and related crafts, fostering the next generation of skilled prototypists and makers to preserve the maison's savoir-faire.

Global Presence and Market Strategy

Boutique Network and International Reach

Moynat's flagship boutique is situated at 348 in Paris's 1st , where the house reopened its doors in December 2011 after a revival led by in 2010; the space incorporates historical displays of archival trunks to highlight the brand's heritage in trunkmaking. A second Paris boutique opened at 34 in July 2025. As of 2025, Moynat operates 28 standalone boutiques across 12 countries, including key locations in at 112 Mount Street in , New York at , in the district, and at the IFC Mall. The brand maintains a strong presence in , with significant market penetration in , , and through multiple boutiques in major cities like , , and , alongside expansions in and the that account for the majority of its international footprint. This network reflects Moynat's post-2010 growth strategy, emphasizing selective, high-end retail environments. Complementing its physical stores, Moynat has pursued digital expansion through its official website, which offers an online personalization tool for custom engravings and monogramming on select leather goods, introduced to enhance amid the 2020 global shifts. The brand also leverages LVMH's platforms for broader accessibility while maintaining exclusivity. Moynat further extends its reach via temporary pop-up installations and strategic partnerships, such as traveling pop-ups at in locations like Bal Harbour, , and a dedicated within London's department store, opened in 2022 to showcase collections in a luxury retail setting.

Marketing and Brand Positioning

Moynat has established itself as a proponent of "quiet luxury," focusing on understated elegance, exceptional craftsmanship, and a heritage narrative that eschews flashy displays in favor of refined subtlety. This positioning distinguishes the brand in the competitive luxury market by prioritizing timeless over overt branding, appealing to discerning consumers who value and . Rather than relying on endorsements, Moynat employs subtle storytelling through platforms and curated exhibitions to convey its legacy as Paris's oldest surviving trunk-maker. For instance, the brand's digital content often explores the of its iconic trunks and leather goods, fostering an intimate connection with audiences while maintaining exclusivity. Recent campaigns, such as the 2025 collaboration with artist Kasing Lung for the 10th anniversary of "The Monsters" series, blend with Moynat's historical motifs on limited-edition bags and accessories, highlighting trunk through playful yet elegant narratives. Similarly, the 2024 Holiday collection in partnership with Japanese graphic designer Kazumasa Nagai featured archival-inspired prints on select pieces, evoking the maison's artistic past via whimsical animal motifs in exhibitions and online showcases. In line with growing consumer demand for ethical practices, Moynat has integrated into its since 2023, promoting participation in LVMH's initiatives under the LIFE 360 program. These efforts, including material revalorization and reduced environmental impact, are highlighted in brand communications to attract millennial and Gen Z buyers who prioritize responsible luxury. The brand's reinforces its ultra-premium status, with average prices exceeding €3,000 and limited production runs that create , enhancing collector appeal and long-term value retention. This approach aligns with Moynat's of deliberate, low-volume output, ensuring each piece embodies rarity and artisanal prestige.

References

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