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Olaplex
Olaplex
Olaplex
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Olaplex is a hair care brand founded in 2014 by Dean Christal.[1] The product was developed by two chemists, Eric Presley and Craig Hawker, and is advertised to rebuild broken bonds in hair caused by chemical, thermal, and mechanical damage.[2][3]

Key Information

History

[edit]

Olaplex was founded in 2014 by Dean Christal. In 2019, Olaplex was acquired by Advent International.

On 30 September 2021, Olaplex was listed on the Nasdaq, raising 1.5 billion dollars after selling 73.7 million shares.[4]

JuE Wong was the CEO from 2020 until 2023.[5][6] In October 2023, Olaplex announced that Amanda Baldwin, former CEO of Supergoop, would be taking over in 2024 as CEO of Olaplex.[6] John Bilbrey, executive chair on the board, will serve as interim CEO until 2024. [6][7]

Ingredients

[edit]

All Olaplex products contain a patented ingredient called bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, with the aim of rebuilding broken hair disulfide bonds. [8]

[9]

Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate (BADGD) is a versatile and widely used ingredient in Olaplex’s products, known for its ability to repair and protect hair from chemical treatments and environmental stressors. It works by reinforcing disulfide bonds within the hair shaft, which are essential for strength and flexibility. When these bonds are damaged by different factors, BADGD reacts with cysteine residues in keratin to restore them, strengthening the hair from within. Additionally, it acts as a protective barrier, minimizing future damage caused by harsh chemicals.

BADGD is particularly beneficial for thick, curly, fine, or damaged hair, where its restorative effects are most noticeable. While its impact may be less evident on already healthy hair, incorporating it into a hair care routine helps maintain hair integrity and appearance. As a key ingredient in hair repair formulations, BADGD plays a crucial role in strengthening and revitalizing damaged hair by restoring its structural bonds and overall health.[10]

Lawsuits

[edit]

In 2015, as Olaplex started to take off, it started talks with L'Oréal about a potential take over. The deal never went through, but Olaplex then sued L'Oréal for stealing trade secrets shared as part of the acquisition process. L'Oréal was found guilty in 2019, but the appeal was overturned, and the two companies finally settled their differences outside of court.[11]

In February 2023, 28 women filed a lawsuit against Olaplex claiming that the products led to damaged hair and hair loss.[12] Part of the lawsuit stated that even after Olaplex reformulated their product to no longer include Lilial (a chemical that is potentially toxic for reproduction), they kept old product on the shelves and continued to sell it.[13] Olaplex published results from third-party testing to show the products are safe. [14] As of May 2023, no trial date had been set.[15] By June 2023, a proposed class action lawsuit had over 100 plaintiffs. U.S. District Judge R. Gary Klausner ruled that the claims were too different for it to be a class action lawsuit and the first-named plaintiff dismissed her case without prejudice.[13]

The 2023 lawsuits had a very negative impact on Olaplex' endorsements from the hairstylists' community, its sales, and the value of its share price (-89% by the end of 2023), a dramatic aftershock that had not been anticipated.[11]

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Olaplex

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Olaplex is an American prestige hair care brand founded in 2014, renowned for its patented bond-building technology that repairs and protects disulfide bonds within the hair structure, addressing damage from chemical services, heat styling, and environmental stressors. The brand was established by entrepreneurs Dean and Darcy Christal in collaboration with chemists Dr. Craig Hawker and Dr. Eric Pressly, who developed the core ingredient, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, in a Santa Barbara garage to revolutionize hair repair during coloring and bleaching processes. Initially launched as a professional salon product, Olaplex quickly gained acclaim for enabling safer, more vibrant hair coloring with reduced breakage, leading to its expansion into consumer retail and direct-to-consumer channels by 2018. Olaplex's product lineup includes a comprehensive regimen of shampoos, conditioners, treatments, and styling products, such as the iconic No.3 Hair Perfector, No.4 Bond Maintenance , and the flagship retail No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner, widely regarded for repairing damaged hair, reducing breakage, hydrating, and improving softness and shine for all hair types. Other notable options include the No.5P Blonde Enhancer Toning Conditioner for blonde, gray, or highlighted hair to tone and reduce brassiness, and the No.5 Leave-In Moisturize & Mend Conditioner for added hydration and detangling without rinsing, all formulated with the brand's signature technology to strengthen at a molecular level across all types and textures. The company operates globally through an omni-channel model, serving salons, specialty retailers like , and its platform, positioning it as a leader in the premium market with a focus on foundational hair health. In recent years, Olaplex has innovated further with additions like Bond Shaping Technology for curl definition and maintenance, launched in 2024, underscoring its commitment to inclusive, science-driven solutions for diverse hair needs. Headquartered in , the brand went public in 2021, reflecting its rapid growth from a niche to a publicly traded enterprise trusted by professionals and consumers worldwide.

Company Overview

Founding and Invention

The core technology behind Olaplex was invented in the early 2010s by chemists Dr. Craig Hawker, a professor at the (UCSB), and his former Ph.D. student Dr. Eric Pressly, who collaborated in Pressly's garage to develop a novel molecule capable of repairing disulfide bonds in hair damaged by chemical processes. Their breakthrough focused on protecting and rebuilding these bonds during treatments like bleaching and coloring, addressing a long-standing challenge in haircare by preventing breakage without relying on traditional conditioners or silicones. Dean Christal, who attended New York University from 1983 to 1987, drew on his family's extensive background in the beauty industry—his father was a beauty distributor with 26 stores, his mother operated a hair salon out of their home, and his brother Don founded brands like Alterna and California Tan—to recognize the commercial potential of this technology. Prior to founding Olaplex, he spent 20 years running a skateboard and clothing business with his wife Darcy and launched the salon-exclusive hair brand Liqwd in 2009. He founded Olaplex, Inc. in 2014 in , with initial funding from family resources. Olaplex's early innovation centered on the patented ingredient bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, with the first (US20150034117A1) filed on August 1, 2014, by Pressly and Hawker, and assigned to Olaplex, Inc., describing methods for repairing bonds in through covalent binding of groups. This formulation enabled the product to integrate seamlessly into existing salon treatments, providing immediate bond protection and long-term strengthening effects. In 2019, Eric Pressly departed Olaplex to pursue independent ventures, later launching his competing brand, Epres Hair Care, in October 2022, motivated by a desire to advance bond-repair science further with acid-free formulations and new patented technologies amid the pandemic's creative opportunities.

Business Development and Ownership

Olaplex launched its initial products in , distributing them exclusively through salons to establish credibility among hairstylists and foster rapid adoption within the industry. This strategy drove significant early growth amid widespread salon uptake. By focusing on the channel, Olaplex built a strong foundation, expanding to over 300,000 salons in more than 80 countries within its first few years. In 2019, , a global , acquired Olaplex in a transaction valued at approximately $1.3 billion, marking a shift toward a more formalized corporate structure and enabling accelerated global expansion. The acquisition, completed in late 2019, valued the company at over $1 billion based on its then-estimated revenue exceeding $100 million, positioning it as a high-growth player in the beauty sector. Under Advent's ownership, Olaplex enhanced its product portfolio and retail strategies while maintaining its professional roots. Olaplex went public on September 30, 2021, with an on the Global Select Market under the OLPX, pricing 73.7 million shares at $21 each and raising about $1.5 billion. The IPO valued the company at over $16 billion at debut, solidifying its status as a in the beauty industry and providing capital for further innovation and . However, the stock faced significant challenges post-IPO, declining 89% by the end of 2023 due to factors including softening consumer demand and heightened . As of 2025, the company continues to navigate market challenges, with Q3 2025 net sales at $114.6 million, down 3.8% year-over-year. Leadership at Olaplex evolved alongside its growth, with founder Dean Christal serving as CEO from inception until his resignation in 2020 following the acquisition by Advent International, after which he retired in Santa Barbara, California. , a beauty industry veteran, succeeded him to guide the company through its phase and IPO. led until 2023, after which Amanda Baldwin, former CEO of Supergoop, was appointed in early 2024 to navigate ongoing sales declines and revitalize performance. The company is headquartered in at , Third Floor, and remains publicly traded as OLPX.

Technology and Ingredients

Bond Repair Mechanism

Hair is primarily composed of proteins, which form the structural foundation of the strand through various bonds, including the robust bonds between that provide tensile strength and elasticity. These bonds are the strongest linkages in , accounting for much of hair's mechanical resilience, but they are irreversibly broken during chemical processes like bleaching and coloring, which involve oxidizing agents that cleave the sulfur-sulfur connections and generate reactive (-) groups. This breakage leads to weakened , increased , and higher susceptibility to damage, as the protein chains lose their cross-linking integrity. Olaplex's patented technology employs Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate as a bond-repairing agent that functions as a "virtual" builder, reconnecting the fragmented chains by bridging the free groups generated from bond breakage. This links the broken ends during and after chemical treatments, effectively reforming the structural network and reducing hair breakage by 68% when used as part of the No.3, No.4, and No.5 system according to clinical evaluations. The repair process begins with the ingredient's penetration into the hair cortex, where its dimaleate groups—acting as Michael acceptors—undergo addition reactions with the groups from cleaved disulfides, creating new covalent linkages that mimic the natural bridges without relying on silicones or oils for temporary coating. This targeted reformation enhances the overall durability of the matrix, preventing further degradation from ongoing stress. Independent studies have substantiated these effects, showing that Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate restores bond integrity and improves 's mechanical properties, with tensile strength tests revealing measurable gains in elongation and reduced modulus post-treatment compared to untreated damaged samples.

Composition and Formulation

The core of Olaplex formulations is the patented bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (BADGG), a single-molecule compound designed to rebuild bonds in . BADGG is free of sulfates, parabens, and , ensuring compatibility with sensitive formulations, and typically comprises 1-5% of the product by weight in conditioners and treatments. Olaplex products are generally free from sulfates (SLS/SLES) and parabens, as well as phthalates in many formulations, but not all are free from silicones—some products (e.g., Nº.6 Bond Smoother, Nº.7 Bonding Oil) contain silicones, while others (e.g., Nº.4C Clarifying Shampoo, Nº.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum) explicitly exclude them. The brand does not explicitly market itself as "clean beauty," formulations vary by product, and there is no universal claim of being free from these ingredients across the entire line. Supporting ingredients vary by product line but maintain BADGG as the consistent core component, with serving as the primary carrier in most formulations. Dimethicone or its copolymers are incorporated in select products, such as shampoos and masks, to enhance shine and smoothness without weighing down . , a form of vitamin B5, is commonly added for moisture retention and to improve elasticity across multiple items like bond smoothers and conditioners. Olaplex incorporates additional ingredients to support hydration and nourishment in various products. The Rich Hydration Mask features an Avocado and Shea conditioning complex to infuse moisture and hydration. The Nº.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner includes Panthenol and Glycerin to draw in moisture and help prevent breakage. The Nº.5 Leave-In Moisturize & Mend Leave-In Conditioner contains a blend of Amino Acids, Squalane, Ximenia Oil, Panthenol, and Glycerin to replenish moisturizing lipids and condition hair. Certain products, such as the Nº.0.5 Scalp Longevity Treatment, include essential fatty acids and ceramides to provide nourishing lipid replenishment for scalp hydration. In , Olaplex introduced Bond Shaping Technology, incorporating the original BADGG alongside a patented composed of 23 for enhanced curl definition and bond support in products targeted at textured hair. Olaplex products are formulated for universal compatibility with all hair types and colors, featuring a balance of 3.5-5.5 to minimize additional damage while optimizing bond repair efficacy. Each formulation undergoes rigorous safety testing in compliance with FDA regulations for , ensuring stability and non-irritating performance. Early Olaplex offerings, such as the original bond perfector, emphasized a minimalist approach centered solely on BADGG with basic preservatives, reflecting the initial focus on pure bond multiplication. Subsequent product evolutions have incorporated antioxidants like extract to provide enhanced protection against free radical damage and environmental stressors, broadening the line's protective benefits without altering the foundational technology.

Products and Usage

Professional Salon Treatments

Olaplex's professional salon treatments originated in 2014 with the launch of the No.1 Bond Multiplier and No.2 Bond Perfector, forming a two-step system exclusively available to licensed hairstylists for integration into chemical services like ing and coloring. The No.1 Bond Multiplier, a highly concentrated , is mixed directly into or color formulations at a of one-fourth ounce per eight ounces of product, enabling it to repair bonds in real time during the chemical process. This additive allows for extended processing times of 10 to 20 minutes without compromising , facilitating lighter lifts while minimizing the structural typically associated with aggressive lightening. Following the initial processing and rinsing, the No.2 Bond Perfector is applied as a creamy rinse to damp , left on for a minimum of five minutes (or up to 20 minutes for intensive repair), and then thoroughly rinsed to complete the treatment and seal the repaired bonds. According to Olaplex, this protocol significantly reduces hair breakage during lightening services compared to traditional methods, positioning it as an essential tool for achieving vibrant, undamaged results. By rebuilding bonds at a molecular level, the system not only prevents immediate breakage but also enhances overall hair resilience, shine, and elasticity post-service. For professionals, Olaplex offers specialized training and certification programs, including online manuals, quizzes, and masterclasses, to equip stylists with the knowledge for optimal application and client consultation. These resources enable salons to market "damage-free" services, boosting client trust and repeat business while establishing Olaplex as a core component of high-end color work. By 2018, the system had gained widespread adoption among thousands of professionals worldwide, solidifying its role as a industry staple in premium salons.

Retail and At-Home Products

Olaplex expanded its offerings beyond professional salon services with the introduction of its retail line, beginning with the No.3 Hair Perfector, a weekly at-home treatment mask designed as the first consumer-accessible bond-building product to extend salon results for ongoing maintenance. This launch marked the brand's entry into and retail channels, allowing users to incorporate bond repair into their home routines. The product line grew rapidly with the addition of No.4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo and No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner in June 2018, providing a daily cleansing duo formulated to continue repairing and strengthening hair, with the conditioner including Panthenol and Glycerin to draw in moisture and prevent breakage, while being color-safe and sulfate-free. The No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner is widely regarded as a top choice for repairing damaged hair, reducing breakage, hydrating, and improving softness and shine for all hair types. A specialized variant, the No.5P Blonde Enhancer Toning Conditioner, is designed for blonde, gray, or highlighted hair to neutralize brassy tones and reduce yellowing while hydrating, smoothing, and strengthening. In March 2019, No.6 Bond Smoother joined as a leave-in styler offering 72-hour frizz control and hydration for versatile styling. The range further expanded in March 2022 with No.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum, a , water-soluble that shields against environmental damage and for up to 48 hours while smoothing and detangling. The line also includes hydration-focused products such as the Rich Hydration Mask, featuring an Avocado and Shea conditioning complex to infuse moisture and hydration, and the No.5 Leave-In Moisturize & Mend Leave-In Conditioner, formulated with blends of Amino Acids, Squalane, Ximenia Oil, Panthenol, and Glycerin to replenish moisturizing lipids, condition hair, and provide added hydration and detangling without rinsing. Other products incorporate essential fatty acids and ceramides for scalp hydration. Recent innovations include the No.10 Bond Shaper Curl Defining Gel, launched in July 2024, which targets wavy, curly, and coily hair types with humidity-resistant hold, heat protection up to 450°F, and bond repair to revive natural patterns without residue. In May 2025, Olaplex launched No.4FINE Bond Maintenance Shampoo and No.5FINE Bond Maintenance Conditioner, formulated for fine hair to provide volume and strengthening without weighing it down. Complementary kits, such as the Hair Repair Treatment Kit, bundle essentials like No.3 with shampoo and conditioner for targeted at-home repair, supporting customized routines for damage reversal in as little as one use. At-home products are intended for regular use to maintain hair integrity, with treatments like No.3 applied 1-2 times a week before shampooing to damp hair from roots to ends until saturated, particularly for very damaged hair from bleaching or coloring, left on for 3-10 minutes, then rinsed and followed by and conditioner. These items are compatible with all hair types and textures, including curly, color-treated, and chemically processed hair, promoting versatility without weighing down strands or altering color. Olaplex bond-building products are suitable for hair with an oily scalp and dry ends, as the formulations repair and strengthen damaged ends without adding oil or excess weight to the scalp. Recommended options include the No.4C Bond Maintenance Clarifying Shampoo to remove excess oil and buildup from the scalp, paired with No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner to hydrate and repair dry ends. The No.0.5 Scalp Longevity Treatment supports scalp balance and microbiome health, No.3 Hair Perfector provides intensive bond repair, and No.7 Bonding Oil delivers lightweight nourishment, shine, and protection to dry ends. The retail lineup is distributed through major beauty retailers like and , alongside direct-to-consumer sales via the official website, enabling broad accessibility. In 2022, specialty retail channel sales reached $235.3 million, reflecting strong consumer demand amid the brand's focus on foundational —emphasizing molecular-level repair for sustained strength, shine, and resilience against daily stressors.

Patent and Intellectual Property Disputes

In 2017, Olaplex filed a lawsuit against L'Oréal USA, Inc., alleging trade secret misappropriation, patent infringement, and breach of contract stemming from events in 2015, when Olaplex shared confidential details of its bond-building formula with L'Oréal during acquisition discussions protected by a nondisclosure agreement. L'Oréal allegedly used this information to develop competing products, such as Smartbond and Redken's Fiberplex, which incorporated similar maleic acid-based technologies for hair bond repair during coloring processes. In August 2019, a Delaware federal jury awarded Olaplex $91.3 million in damages, finding willful infringement of two patents (U.S. Patent Nos. 9,532,935 and 9,717,674) and rejecting L'Oréal's invalidity challenges, while also upholding the trade secret claims. Olaplex's intellectual property portfolio includes over 100 patents worldwide filed since 2014, primarily covering its proprietary bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (BADGG) ingredient and methods for rebuilding bonds in during chemical treatments. These patents have been enforced against major competitors, including 's brands like and Pureology, whose bond-repair systems were deemed infringing in the 2017 litigation, leading to a permanent against nine products in 2019. The disputes have significantly influenced the haircare industry, accelerating the development of a "bond-building" product category while Olaplex aggressively defends its exclusivity, as evidenced by the 2019 U.S. jury's validation of its core patents against 's defenses. Following appeals, the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit in 2021 vacated portions of the damages award and remanded for retrial on one , but the parties reached a confidential settlement later that year, reportedly including licensing arrangements. Post its 2021 , Olaplex has maintained vigilant IP monitoring, issuing warnings and pursuing enforcement against unauthorized mimics of its technology to safeguard market position amid growing competition in bond-repair formulations.

Product Safety and Consumer Lawsuits

In February 2023, nearly 30 women filed a proposed against Olaplex Holdings, Inc. in the U.S. District Court for the Central District of , alleging that the company's products caused severe adverse effects including , scalp irritation, blisters, breakage, and bald spots. The suit claimed and , asserting that Olaplex marketed its products as safe and bond-repairing despite containing potentially harmful ingredients such as (butylphenyl methylpropional), a fragrance allergen banned in the for risks, as well as panthenol, , and ascorbic acid, which plaintiffs alleged could interact to form trace amounts of , a known . By 2024, additional plaintiffs had joined, expanding the number to over 100, with reports of damage occurring even when products were used as directed. The court denied class certification in July 2023 due to individualized issues among plaintiffs' injuries and circumstances, severing the cases into individual actions that remain unresolved without a scheduled date as of November 2025. Olaplex has vigorously defended the claims, stating that independent clinical testing shows its products are safe and effective without causing or breakage, and attributing reported issues to rare individual sensitivities or improper use rather than inherent defects. The company has offered refunds for unused products within 60 days of purchase but has not issued a broader recall or warning label. Regulatory oversight has involved monitoring by the U.S. (FDA), which received consumer complaints about adverse reactions but has not mandated recalls, as are regulated post-market without pre-approval requirements. In response to EU regulations, Olaplex phased out from its formulations globally by early 2022, ensuring no current products contain it, while U.S. versions were adjusted to comply with emerging standards on allergens and impurities like , which testing confirmed remained below detectable safety limits. In November 2022, a putative lawsuit was filed against Olaplex and certain executives in the U.S. District Court for the Central District of California, alleging violations of the for misleading statements about product safety and efficacy, particularly regarding risks. The case was settled in 2025 for $47.5 million, with final court approval on December 1, 2025, and expected insurance recovery covering most costs. Separately, in April 2024, Olaplex faced another in federal court over allegations of misleading "" labeling on certain products, which the company settled in 2025 for up to $1.35 million in administrative costs and consumer vouchers without admitting liability; the settlement received final court approval in July 2025.

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  77. https://www.npr.org/2023/02/16/1157398619/olaplex-lawsuit-hair-loss
  78. https://www.bbc.com/news/health-64662934
  79. https://www.consumershield.com/articles/olaplex-lawsuit
  80. https://olaplex.com/pages/health-and-safety
  81. https://beautymatter.com/articles/olaplex-hair-loss-lawsuit
  82. https://www.cbsnews.com/news/olaplex-hair-products-lawsuit-balding-blisters-damage/
  83. https://www.ewg.org/news-insights/news/2022/03/lose-lilial-european-union-ban-shows-risks-chemical-cosmetics
  84. https://ir.olaplex.com/sec-filings/all-sec-filings/content/0001868726-25-000013/olpx-20241231.htm
  85. https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/open-lawsuit-settlements/olaplex-false-advertising-class-action-settlement/
  86. https://www.miamiherald.com/news/nation-world/national/article302851594.html
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