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Caversham Park
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Caversham Park is a Victorian-era stately home with parkland in the suburb of Caversham on the outskirts of Reading, England. Historically located in Oxfordshire, it became part of Berkshire with boundary changes in 1977. Caversham Park was home to BBC Monitoring and BBC Radio Berkshire. The park is listed as Grade II in the English Heritage Register of Historic Parks and Gardens.[3]
Key Information
Early history
[edit]The history of Caversham Park goes back to at least Norman times, when Walter Giffard, a distant relative of William the Conqueror, was given the estate after the 1066 conquest. The estate, then Caversham Manor, was a fortified manor house or castle, probably nearer the Thames than the present house. The estate was registered in the Domesday Book, in an entry describing a property of 9.7 square kilometres (2,400 acres) worth £20.[4] The estate passed to William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke and Protector of the Realm, in the late 12th century. Marshall, who in his final years acted as de facto regent under the reign of a young Henry III, died in Caversham Park in 1219.
Later it was occupied by the Earls of Warwick. In 1542, it was bought by Sir Francis Knollys, the treasurer of Queen Elizabeth I. However, he did not move there until over forty years later, when he completely rebuilt the house slightly to the north. Sir Francis' son, William Knollys, the Earl of Banbury, entertained Queen Elizabeth I and Queen Anne of Denmark here.[5]
A description of an entertainment at Caversham for Anne of Denmark in April 1613, written by Thomas Campion, was printed in 1613. She was met by a "Cynic" dressed as a wildman who debated with a "Traveller" in elaborate costume. Those two rode the short distance to the park gate and were met by two park keepers and two of Robin Hood's men, who sang for the queen in her coach. The entertainment continued in the hall of the house after dinner and concluded with masque dancing.[6]
Later Caversham became home to the Royalist Earl of Craven. During the Civil War, the house was confiscated and used to imprison Charles I. Following the Civil War, the Elizabethan manor house was demolished because of its poor state of repair, and rebuilt by Lord Craven after 1660, probably employing William Winde as the architect. The estate was sold in 1697, passing by the 1720s into the hands of William, first Baron, and later Earl, Cadogan (d 1726).

William Cadogan, 1st Earl Cadogan started to have the house rebuilt in 1718. A friend of the Duke of Marlborough, he tried to rival the gardens at Blenheim Palace. A plan of the 1723 design was published by Colen Campbell in Vitruvius Britannicus III (1725).
The house burned down in the late 18th century and was replaced with a smaller house. That was enlarged by Major Charles Marsack in the 1780s, in the Greek temple style, with an impressive Corinthian colonnade. Marsack was High Sheriff of Oxfordshire for 1787.[7] In 1850, that house also burnt down.
Garden
[edit]In his Observations on Modern Gardening of 1770,[8] Thomas Whately described the approach to Lord Cadogan's Caversham as exemplary, an artful solution to its restrictive setting "confined within a narrow valley, without views, buildings or water",[9] He praises the unequivocal statement of being a road to a grand house: "The approach to Caversham, though a mile in length, and not once in sight of the house, till close upon it, yet can never be mistaken for any other way than it is".[10] "Crossing the whole breadth of a lovely valley; the road is conducted along the bottom, continually winding in natural easy sweeps, and presenting at every bend some new scene to the view ... insensibly ascending, all the way".[10] It finally "rises under a thick wood in the garden up to the house, where it suddenly bursts out upon a rich, and extensive prospect, with the town and the churches of Reading full in sight, and the hills of Windsor forest in the horizon."[11]
In April 1786, Thomas Jefferson, the future third President of the United States, visited Caversham Park and other places described in Whately's treatise in search of inspirations for his own gardens at Monticello and other architectural projects. An astute observer, Jefferson's account in his Notes of a Tour of English Gardens reads like this:
"Caversham. Sold by Ld. Cadogan to Majr. Marsac. 25. as. of garden, 400. as. of park, 6 as. of kitchen garden. A large lawn, separated by a sunk fence from the garden, appears to be part of it. A straight broad gravel walk passes before the front and parallel to it, terminated on the right by a Doric temple, and opening at the other end on a fine prospect. This straight walk has an ill effect. The lawn in front, which is pasture, well disposed with clumps of trees."[12]
Jefferson undertook the tour in the company of John Adams, his close friend and predecessor as US president. Adams' observations are far more general. However, he gives a fuller account of the route they were taking: "Mr. Jefferson and myself went in a post-chaise to Woburn farm, Caversham, Wotton, Stowe, Edgehill, Stratford upon Avon, Birmingham, the Leasowes, Hagley, Stourbridge, Worcester, Woodstock, Blenheim, Oxford, High Wycombe, and back to Grosvenor Square... The gentlemen's seats were the highest entertainment we met with. Stowe, Hagley, and Blenheim, are superb; Woburn, Caversham, and the Leasowes are beautiful. Wotton is both great and elegant, though neglected".[13] He was damning about the means used to finance the large estates, and he did not think that the embellishments to the landscape, made by the owners of the great English country houses, would suit the more rugged American countryside.[14]
Current building
[edit]
The present building, inspired by Italian baroque palaces, was erected after a fire in 1850 by architect Horace Jones,[15] who much later also designed London's Tower Bridge. Its then owner William Crawshay II, an ironmaster nicknamed the 'Iron King', had the house rebuilt over an iron frame,[16] an early example for this technique. Jones inserted his seven-bay block between two colonnades of 1840 by John Thistlewood Crew[17] (called J. T. Crews by Pevsner and English Heritage[18]) which apparently survived the fire.
During the First World War, part of the building was used as a convalescent home for wounded soldiers. In 1923, The Oratory School bought the house and about 120 hectares (300 acres) of the estate's remaining 730 hectares (1,800 acres). The principal of the school was Edward Pereira. The legacy of the estate's days as a school remains with a chapel building and graves for three boys, one of whom died during World War II in 1940, the other two having died from accident and sickness in the 1920s.
Caversham Park had been part of the ancient parish of Caversham, but was transferred to the neighbouring parish of Eye and Dunsden in 1911 when the more built up part of Caversham was transferred into the borough of Reading.[19] The residential area of Caversham Park Village was developed in the 1960s on some of the parkland.[20] The Local nature reserve Clayfield Copse was part of the land belonging to Caversham Park.[21] Caversham Park and the surrounding development were subsequently transferred from the parish of Eye and Dunsden in Oxfordshire to the borough of Reading in Berkshire in 1977.[22]
When approaching Reading via the A3290 (formerly part of the A329(M) motorway) northbound near the A4 junction, Caversham Park is a clearly visible landmark dominating the wooded hill on the opposite side of the Thames.
BBC Monitoring
[edit]
With the onset of the Second World War, the British Ministry of Health requisitioned Caversham Park, and initially intended to convert it into a hospital. However, the BBC purchased the property with government grant-in-aid funds and, in the spring of 1943, moved its Monitoring Service into the premises from Wood Norton Hall, near Evesham in Worcestershire. The nearby estate of Crowsley Park was acquired by the BBC at the same time, to act as the service's receiving station and continues to function in that role. In 1945, 1,000 people were working at the site.[23]
In major building works in the 1980s, Norman Lucey, Architect for the BBC Architectural & Civil Engineering Department, restored the interior of the mansion, removed utilitarian brick buildings put up on the east side of the mansion during the war, converted the orangery (then being used as a canteen) into editorial offices, and built a large new west wing to house the listening room. That included a new glazed atrium facing the original stable block. A new east wing was built in the 1990s. A further major building project in 2007–08 saw the west wing converted to house all of Monitoring's operational staff. [24]
A large 10-metre (33 ft) diameter satellite dish was erected in the grounds in the early 1980s. It was later painted green (rather than white) to reduce its obtrusiveness. Shortwave aerials in front of the house were removed.
In the 1980s, the formal name of the service was shortened to "BBC Monitoring".
In 2016, it was announced that BBC Monitoring would move to London, with the loss of a number of jobs.[23] In late 2017, the BBC announced it was selling the Grade II-listed Caversham Park estate in an effort to save money on property costs.[23] In November 2018, the BBC finally left Caversham Park, after 75 years.[25]
Notes
[edit]- ^ "Caversham Park (bbc Records), Reading". British Listed Buildings. Retrieved 6 June 2011.
- ^ Beechcroft Developments
- ^ Historic England. "Caversham Park (1000524)". National Heritage List for England. Retrieved 3 July 2019.
- ^ Garats Hay. Annual General Meeting – 2000, retrieved 25 April 2011
- ^ Memorials of Affairs of State from the papers of Ralph Winwood, vol. 3 (London, 1725), p. 454.
- ^ John Nichols, The progresses, processions, and magnificent festivities, of King James the First, his royal consort, family, and court, vol. 2 (London, 1828), pp. 629–39.
- ^ "No. 12829". The London Gazette. 10 February 1787. p. 69.
- ^ Whately 1770, chapter XLV.
- ^ Whately 1770, p. 144.
- ^ a b Whately 1770, p. 140.
- ^ Whately 1770, p. 142.
- ^ Jefferson 2008, p. 370.
- ^ Adams 1851, p. 394 s.
- ^ Adams 1851, p. 394
- ^ G. C. Boase, Jones, Sir Horace (1819–1887) rev. Valerie Scott, Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, 2004 (Subscription required)
- ^ Royal Berkshire History: Caversham Park
- ^ Howard Colvin, A Biographical Dictionary of British Architects, 1600–1840, London 1978, p. 240.
- ^ Caversham Park Archived 22 April 2016 at the Wayback Machine on Past Scape, English Heritage
- ^ "Local Government Board's Provisional Order Confirmation (No. 11) Act 1911". legislation.gov.uk. The National Archives. Retrieved 7 November 2024.
- ^ "Pick of the Past: Caversham Park Village 1970". Get Reading. 16 May 2014. Retrieved 10 April 2017.
- ^ "Friends of Clayfield Copse". Econetreading.org.uk. Retrieved 10 April 2017.
- ^ "The Berkshire and Oxfordshire (Areas) Order 1977", legislation.gov.uk, The National Archives, SI 1977/218, retrieved 7 November 2024
- ^ a b c "Caversham Park: End of an era for BBC listening station". BBC News Online. 7 July 2016. Retrieved 27 July 2019.
- ^ Reading Borough Council (2023) Caversham Park Heritage Statement June 2023
- ^ "BBC Berkshire last to leave Caversham Park". BBC News Online. 20 November 2018. Retrieved 27 July 2019.
References
[edit]- Adams, John; Adams, Charles Francis (1851), The Works of John Adams, Second President of the United States: Autobiography, continued. Diary. Essays and controversial papers of the Revolution, The Works of John Adams, Second President of the United States, vol. 3, Little, Brown, p. 394
- Jefferson, Thomas (2008), Oberg, Barbara B.; Looney, J. Jefferson (eds.), The Papers of Thomas Jefferson (Digital ed.), Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, Rotunda, p. 370, retrieved 14 August 2012
- Whately, Thomas (1770), "Chapters XLV & XLVI", Observations on Modern Gardening (Second ed.), London: T. Payne, pp. 138–144
External links
[edit]Caversham Park
View on GrokipediaCaversham Park is a Grade II listed country house and estate in Caversham, Reading, Berkshire, England, with origins tracing to a medieval feudal manor held by influential landowners who shaped English history.[1][2] The current neoclassical house, designed by architect Sir Horace Jones, was built in 1850 following the destruction of an earlier structure by fire in 1849.[3] From 1941, the estate housed BBC Monitoring, which intercepted and analyzed foreign radio broadcasts, becoming the first site worldwide to receive news of Germany's surrender in World War II via a Reuters wire from Reims on 7 May 1945.[4][5] The service played a pivotal role in Cold War intelligence, covering events such as the 1956 Soviet invasion of Hungary and the 1961 construction of the Berlin Wall, before relocating to London in 2018 amid funding cuts.[4][6] Following the BBC's departure, the site has faced proposals for residential development while preserving its historic parkland.[7]
Site Origins and Early Development
Pre-19th Century Ownership and Use
The manor of Caversham, encompassing what became Caversham Park, is recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086 as held by the Saxon thegn Swein of Essex before passing to the Norman baron Walter Giffard, Earl of Buckingham, reflecting the post-Conquest redistribution of lands.[1] By the early 13th century, it had entered the possession of William Marshal, 1st Earl of Pembroke (c. 1147–1219), a prominent knight and regent during the minority of Henry III, who favored Caversham as a residence and died there on 14 May 1219.[8] [9] Marshal's eldest son, William Marshal the Younger, developed the estate into a dedicated hunting park of approximately 300 acres, establishing its early character as a feudal demesne for elite recreation and governance, including affairs of state during Marshal's regency.[1] Following Marshal's death, the estate descended through his daughters' marriages to the de Clare family and later the Despensers by 1314, with revenues partly supporting a pilgrimage chapel dedicated to St. Anne, indicative of its religious and economic ties to medieval devotion.[1] It subsequently passed to the Beauchamp Earls of Warwick, who maintained a fortified manor house documented as early as 1218, used as a noble seat amid regional power struggles. [9] The site featured a medieval castle or strengthened manor, emphasizing defensive and residential functions for high-status owners amid feudal obligations to the Crown. In 1542, Sir Francis Knollys, a courtier and treasurer to Elizabeth I, acquired the lease, receiving full grant in 1552; he initiated construction of the first substantial mansion house, completed after his death in 1596 by his son William Knollys, 1st Earl of Banbury, transforming it into a Tudor-era gentry residence.[1] The property hosted Elizabeth I in 1601, underscoring its role in royal patronage networks.[1] Sold in 1633 to William Craven, 1st Earl of Craven, for £10,000, with further investments of £20,000 in improvements, it served as a Stuart aristocratic retreat; Charles I visited in 1643 during the Civil War and again in 1647 as a captive.[1] Confiscated under the Commonwealth, it was restored to the Cravens in 1660, featuring terraced gardens designed by architect William Winde, blending leisure and landscape utility.[1] The Craven family retained ownership into the late 18th century, maintaining its status as a parkland estate before eventual transfer to figures like the Cadogans.[1]Initial Landscaping and Estate Formation
The estate of Caversham Park originated as a medieval hunting park, with its first documented reference appearing in the Domesday Book of 1086, though formal enclosure and layout as a fenced deer park occurred in the early 13th century under the ownership of William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke, who acquired the manor through marriage in 1164 and died there in 1219.[1] Covering approximately 300 acres, the park retained much of its original boundaries and form for over seven centuries, serving primarily for hunting and reflecting the Norman-era emphasis on enclosed woodlands and pastures for game management.[1] Subsequent ownership passed through the de Clare and Despenser families from around 1314 until the Tudor period, after which Francis Knollys leased the estate in 1542 and received a grant of lands in 1552, enabling the construction of an early manor house by 1588.[1] In 1633, William Craven, 1st Earl of Craven, purchased the property for £10,000, initiating post-Civil War restorations that included the development of formal gardens designed by architect William Winde after 1660, featuring tiered terraces, flower beds, and views toward the River Thames.[1] These structured elements marked an early shift from utilitarian hunting grounds to ornamental landscaping, as noted in contemporary accounts like John Evelyn's diary from 1655.[1] By the mid-18th century, under the 2nd Baron Cadogan, the estate underwent further transformation with the engagement of landscape architect Lancelot "Capability" Brown around 1764 to redesign the parklands in the emerging English landscape style, emphasizing sweeping lawns, naturalistic water features, and scattered trees to create an illusion of untouched wilderness.[10][11] This work expanded the park to its historical peak of about 160 hectares, integrating the earlier formal gardens into a broader, picturesque composition that prioritized visual harmony with the Thames Valley terrain.[12] The Cadogan tenure ended with the sale of the estate to Major Charles Marsack, preserving Brown's layout as the foundational parkland framework into the 19th century.[13]Mansion Construction and Architectural Evolution
19th-Century Building and Victorian Design
The present Caversham Park mansion was rebuilt in 1850 after a fire destroyed the prior structure, sparing only the flanking columns.[1] The project was commissioned by William Crawshay II, an ironmaster dubbed the "Iron King" who had acquired the estate's lease in 1838 and freehold in 1844.[14] Architect Horace Jones, later renowned for London's Tower Bridge, directed the reconstruction, employing an iron frame—one of England's earliest such applications in residential architecture—to support the edifice.[1] [15] The design adopted a classical exterior, evoking neoclassical proportions while integrating Victorian-era innovations in materials and structure, such as the iron skeleton inspired by contemporaneous feats like the Crystal Palace of 1851.[1] Key additions encompassed a west wing, winter garden, and segregated staircases for servants, alongside modern amenities; the interior boasted a grand hall exceeding 50 feet in length, a dining room fitted with a mantelpiece from Chesterfield House, and expansive quarters for domestic staff.[1] These elements underscored the opulence and functional hierarchy typical of mid-Victorian country houses built by industrial magnates. The estate's Victorian landscaping complemented the mansion, featuring vibrant flowerbeds, a fernery, and terraced grounds tended by 15 gardeners, enhancing the symmetric classical facade with lush, picturesque surroundings.[1] This synthesis of architectural grandeur and technological novelty positioned Caversham Park as a emblematic Victorian rebuild, prioritizing durability and display over ornate Gothic revivalism prevalent elsewhere in the era.[11]Subsequent Modifications and Expansions
In 1926, a major fire severely damaged the first and second floors as well as the roof of the mansion during school holidays, necessitating insured repairs that restored the structure without fundamental redesign.[1] The mansion underwent sale to the BBC in 1941, prompting minor additions and internal changes to support foreign media monitoring operations; its existing fabric and layout proved largely compatible, requiring limited structural intervention.[1] By 1943, as the headquarters for BBC Monitoring, the building saw adaptations for wartime radio signal interception and analysis, including conversions such as transforming the former school sanatorium into staff dormitories, though these involved minimal alterations to the core architecture.[1] A significant modernization in the 1980s added a new operations room at the mansion's west end, accompanied by comprehensive refurbishment of the main building and integration of early computer systems to enhance monitoring capabilities.[1] Further expansion occurred in 2007 with a second phase of upgrades, featuring a redesigned west operations room, extensive interior and structural works, and technological enhancements for multimedia production, reflecting evolving demands of intelligence gathering.[1]Gardens and Parkland Features
Landscape Design Principles
The landscape design at Caversham Park evolved from formal geometric layouts in the 17th century to the naturalistic English landscape style in the 18th century, reflecting broader shifts in British garden theory toward picturesque integration with the surrounding countryside.[1] Early designs under William Craven incorporated tiered formal gardens on the Thames-facing slope, featuring structured terraces, parterres with flower beds, and aligned tree avenues, principles rooted in axial symmetry and compartmentalized spaces typical of Restoration-era estates influenced by continental formalism.[1] These elements emphasized control over nature through clipped hedges, canals, and enclosed deer parks, prioritizing visual hierarchy and enclosed vistas from the house.[1] In the 1760s, Capability Brown was commissioned by Charles Cadogan, 2nd Baron Cadogan, to modernize the gardens, applying principles of naturalistic landscaping that rejected rigid geometry in favor of fluid, organic forms mimicking idealized rural scenery.[10] [1] Brown abolished the formal parterres and canals—retaining only the principal south terrace for continuity—while introducing ha-has to seamlessly blend parkland with the house grounds, creating uninterrupted pastoral views toward the Thames Valley.[1] His approach emphasized strategic clumps and belts of trees for framing prospects, undulating lawns for smooth transitions, and subtle water features integrated as natural ponds rather than artificial channels, aiming to evoke serene, expansive countryside without overt artifice.[10] This adhered to the era's picturesque aesthetic, prioritizing emotional resonance through varied topography and borrowed landscapes over imposed patterns.[12] By the 19th century, following the 1786 fire and reconstruction of the mansion, terraced gardens were reintroduced along the south front, blending Victorian formality with Brown's lingering naturalism in a hybrid style that maintained sweeping parkland while adding structured pleasure grounds closer to the house.[12] These principles supported recreational and ornamental functions, with terraces facilitating level walks amid sloping terrain and parkland preserved for deer and informal rides, underscoring a causal adaptation to site topography—elevated plateau overlooking the river—for both aesthetic harmony and practical estate management.[12] The design's enduring scale, originally encompassing about 160 hectares, prioritized legibility from afar, with open vistas enhancing the estate's grandeur against the Berkshire landscape.[12] ![Caversham Park, 1790-1799 by W. and J. Walker][float-right]Key Elements and Historical Changes
The parkland at Caversham Park originated as a medieval deer park in the early 13th century, spanning approximately 300 acres (120 hectares) and fenced for hunting by the son of William Marshal.[1] In the 1660s, William Winde designed tiered gardens on the south side facing the Thames, featuring terraces, flower beds, and double avenues of trees.[1] Early 18th-century owner William Cadogan expanded these with a 400-yard (370 m) terrace, formal gardens, and 300-yard (270 m) canals adjacent to an extended deer park.[1] A major redesign occurred in the 1760s under the 2nd Baron Cadogan, when Lancelot "Capability" Brown transformed the grounds from formal layouts to a picturesque landscape park, removing parterres and canals, introducing a ha-ha wall, sweeping lawns, and informal tree groupings to evoke natural countryside scenery.[10][11][1] Mid-19th-century owner William II Crawshay enhanced the Victorian gardens with vibrant flower beds and a fernery, employing 15 gardeners to maintain the features.[1] Key elements include the retained south-facing terraced gardens offering panoramic views over the Thames Valley, remnants of Brown's parkland with its plateau topography and southeast slopes, and vestiges of the deer park.[11][12] The estate's extent peaked at around 160 hectares but contracted to about 40 hectares through 20th-century land sales, including portions developed for housing in the 1960s.[12][1] By the 1930s, areas of parkland were converted to playing fields under Oratory School ownership, further altering the original landscape composition.[16]