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Ely Place
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51°31′7″N 0°6′25″W / 51.51861°N 0.10694°W
Ely Place /ˈiːli/ ⓘ is a gated road of multi-storey terraces at the southern tip of the London Borough of Camden in London, England. It hosts a 1773-rebuilt public house, Ye Olde Mitre, of Tudor origin and is adjacent to Hatton Garden.
It is privately managed by its own body of commissioners and beadles.
Ely Place sits on the site of the London residence of the Bishops of Ely, who regularly lived there between 1290 and 1772. The bishop's palace and surrounding land was then sold and redeveloped into Ely Place, with only the bishop's medieval chapel being preserved.
History
[edit]
Origins
[edit]Ely Place stands on land that had been the site of Ely Palace or Ely House, the London townhouse of the Bishops of Ely from 1290 to 1772.[1] Land in the Holborn area was bought by John de Kirkby in 1280. He was appointed Bishop of Ely in 1286 and on his death in 1290, he left the estate to the see of Ely.[1] In medieval times, bishops of Ely frequently held high state office requiring them to live in London; Ely Palace was the bishop's official residence.
References to Ely Palace grounds occur in Shakespeare’s plays. It was at the house that in King Richard II, the Bard had John of Gaunt – who was living there in 1382 – says his "This royal throne of Kings, this sceptre’d isle" speech.[2]
On 17 October 1546, James Butler, 9th Earl of Ormond, was visiting London with his household. Butler, a powerful Munster landowner who had served in the household of Cardinal Wolsey in his youth, had crossed Sir Anthony St Leger, the quarrelsome Lord Deputy of Ireland. Butler and his entourage were invited to dine at Ely Palace as guests of the Bishop of Ely. Ormond was poisoned along with his steward and 16 of his household, it was widely assumed, at the instructions of St Leger.
John Lesley, Bishop of Ross, who was acting as a diplomat for Mary, Queen of Scots, was held at Ely House under house arrest from 14 May to August 1571. Lesley's had a household of 25. He left the house with the Bishop of Ely on 17 August for his house at Fenstanton, giving tips to the Bishop's servants.[3]
The estate was granted to Sir Christopher Hatton in 1577 after a commission was set up by Queen Elizabeth I, headed by John Aylmer (Bishop of London) to investigate the claims that Sir Christopher Hatton should be granted the freehold of the land after he acquired a 21 years lease on the estate and spent a sum of the £1,887 5s 8d (equivalent to £679,211 in 2023) on renovations and repairs. The commission declared in June 1577 that Ely Place should stay with Bishop Cox if he could reimburse Sir Christopher Hatton in whole for the outlay but he could not. A new lease was drawn up giving Sir Christopher Hatton control of the property freehold. He gave his name to Hatton Garden which occupies part of the site.
The house passed to Elizabeth Hatton, who disputed her property with her second husband Edward Coke. In 1622, the Spanish ambassador Gondomar told King James that she refused him and Coke access to the house.[4][5]
The estate was sold to the Crown in 1772. The cul-de-sac was constructed in 1772 by Robert Taylor.[1] Edmund Keene as Bishop of Ely commissioned a new Ely House, also built by Taylor, on Dover Street, Mayfair.[1]
St Etheldreda's Church
[edit]St Etheldreda's Church in Ely Place is the former private chapel of the Bishops of Ely. It is one of two surviving buildings in London from the reign of Edward I (1272–1307) although it was badly damaged during World War II. The 13th-century crypt survived remarkably unscathed and is occasionally used for private functions. St Etheldreda, a seventh-century queen and founding abbess of the monastery at Ely, was the saint in whose name Ely Cathedral was dedicated.
The gardens of St Etheldreda were said to produce the finest strawberries in London and a Strawberry Fayre is held here every June. In Shakespeare’s Richard III, Gloucester tells the Bishop of Ely: "My Lord of Ely, when I was last in Holborn, I saw good strawberries in your garden there. I do beseech you, send for some of them".
Commissioners
[edit]| Ely Place and Ely Mews Improvement Act 1842 | |
|---|---|
| Act of Parliament | |
 | |
| Long title | An Act for paving, lighting, watching, cleansing, and improving Ely Place and Ely Mews, Holborn, in the County of Middlesex. |
| Citation | 5 & 6 Vict. c.xlviii |
| Dates | |
| Royal assent | 18 June 1842 |
| Text of statute as originally enacted | |
In 1842 a local act of Parliament, the Ely Place and Ely Mews Improvement Act 1842 (5 & 6 Vict. c.xlviii), established a body of commissioners for paving, lighting, watching, cleansing and improving Ely Place and Ely Mews, Holborn, in the County of Middlesex. While the commissioners have lost most of their powers to local authorities established under the Metropolis Management Act 1855 (18 & 19 Vict. c. 120) and later legislation, they retain their "watching" duties, with a beadle discharging these duties.
Transport
[edit]To the east is Farringdon Road and to the south is Holborn Circus. To the north is a gate leading to Bleeding Heart Yard. The nearest underground stations are Farringdon to the northeast and Chancery Lane to the west.
References
[edit]- ^ a b c d Richardson, J., The Annals of London, (2000)
- ^ King Richard II Act 2, Scene 1
- ^ "Diary of John Lesley", Bannatyne Miscellany, 3 (Edinburgh, 1855), pp. 121–142.
- ^ Peter Cunningham, Hand-book of London: Past and Present (London, 1850), p. 174, citing Howell's letters.
- ^ Walter Scott, Secret History of the Court of James the First, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1811), p. 346.
External links
[edit]Ely Place
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Location and Geography
Position in London
Ely Place is situated at the coordinates 51°31′7″N 0°6′26″W, within the London Borough of Camden.[4] It borders Hatton Garden to the east, a renowned center for the jewelry trade, while to the south lies Holborn Circus, a major traffic junction, and to the west is Farringdon Road, a key thoroughfare connecting central London to the north.[3][5] Administratively, Ely Place falls within the Holborn and Covent Garden ward of Camden, an area historically associated with the Inns of Court, which house several prestigious legal institutions nearby.[6][7] This enclave is embedded in the broader legal and commercial district of Holborn, where the tranquility of its gated entrance provides a stark contrast to the bustling surrounding streets filled with offices, shops, and commuters.Physical Layout
Ely Place is a short, gated private road approximately 110 meters long, designed as a cul-de-sac that creates an enclosed, private enclave amid central London's urban density. The street consists of two parallel rows of multi-storey Georgian terraces, constructed in 1772 under the direction of architect Robert Taylor, featuring elegant brick facades typical of late-18th-century London development.[8][9][10] The primary entrance to Ely Place is through a historic beadles' gatehouse situated off Charterhouse Street, adjacent to Holborn Circus, where gates are traditionally closed at night to preserve seclusion. A secondary access is available via the narrow Ely Court passage, allowing pedestrian entry from the surrounding Hatton Garden area. The entire length is bounded by high stone walls, remnants of its medieval origins, which shield the interior from external traffic and enhance its sense of isolation.[3][11][9] In its contemporary form, Ely Place accommodates a blend of residential apartments and commercial offices, with properties often refurbished to Grade II listed standards while retaining the terrace uniformity. This layout supports a low-traffic environment managed by private commissioners, emphasizing privacy over public thoroughfare.[12][13]History
Origins as Ely Palace
Ely Place originated as the London residence of the Bishops of Ely, established in the late 13th century on land acquired by John de Kirkby, who served as Bishop of Ely from 1286 until his death in 1290. In 1280, de Kirkby acquired land in the Holborn area, including a messuage along with nine cottages in the parish of St. Andrew, Holborn.[9] Upon his death, de Kirkby bequeathed the property to his successors in the See of Ely, ensuring its perpetual ecclesiastical ownership.[14] Construction of Ely Palace commenced shortly after de Kirkby's bequest, beginning in 1290 during the episcopate of his successor, William of Louth (also known as de Luda), who held the see from 1290 to 1298. The initial development focused on erecting a chapel dedicated to St. Etheldreda, completed between 1290 and 1299, which formed the core of the palace complex.[14] Over the subsequent decades, the site expanded into a substantial medieval palace, serving as the bishops' primary London residence until its sale in 1772. The structure functioned as a townhouse for administrative and residential purposes, reflecting the bishops' need for a secure base in the capital distant from their primary seat at Ely Cathedral.[14] The property remained under the control of successive Bishops of Ely throughout the medieval and early modern periods. From its inception, Ely Palace held significance as both a royal and ecclesiastical retreat, offering respite from courtly and diocesan duties amid its extensive gardens, which were particularly renowned for their strawberry cultivation—a feature that later inspired literary references and traditions.[14]Key Historical Events
Ely Place, originally the London residence of the Bishops of Ely known as Ely Palace or Ely House, was the setting for John of Gaunt's famous deathbed speech in William Shakespeare's Richard II (Act 2, Scene 1), where the Duke of Lancaster laments the state of England as a "blessed plot" despoiled by poor governance.[15] Historically, Gaunt resided at Ely House from 1381 until his death there on 3 February 1399, after his primary London residence, the Savoy Palace, was destroyed during the Peasants' Revolt of 1381.[16] In 1531, the palace hosted a banquet for King Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon, highlighting its role in royal entertainment.[3] In the Tudor period, Ely House witnessed a notorious incident of suspected poisoning on 17 October 1546, when James Butler, 9th Earl of Ormond, dined there with members of his household and fell ill from tainted food or drink.[17] Butler, a prominent Irish noble and key figure in Anglo-Irish affairs under Henry VIII, succumbed to the effects on 28 October 1546, along with at least sixteen servants, amid suspicions of foul play linked to rivalries with figures like Anthony St Leger, the Lord Deputy of Ireland, though no perpetrators were ever identified or prosecuted.[18] In 1620, the Spanish Ambassador resided at the palace, underscoring its diplomatic importance.[3] During the Elizabethan era, Ely House served as the site of political intrigue involving Scottish affairs, as John Lesley, Bishop of Ross and diplomat for Mary, Queen of Scots, was placed under house arrest there from May to August 1571 by order of Queen Elizabeth I. Lesley's confinement stemmed from his involvement in plots supporting Mary's claim to the English throne, including communications with Catholic sympathizers; he was initially held with Bishop Richard Cox of Ely before being moved within the property. A significant transition in Ely House's ownership occurred in 1578, when Queen Elizabeth I compelled the Bishop of Ely, Richard Cox, to grant the property in fee simple to her favorite, Sir Christopher Hatton, through royal pressure, marking the shift from ecclesiastical control to secular aristocratic possession. Hatton, who had already leased part of the estate since 1576, renovated it into Hatton House, using it as his London base until his death in 1591.Decline and Redevelopment
By the mid-18th century, the Ely Palace had deteriorated significantly, burdened by centuries of neglect following the Reformation and subsequent uses as a residence, prison, and hospital during the Civil War. The financial pressures on the Diocese of Ely, stemming from the high costs of maintaining the increasingly ruinous structures amid urban encroachment and slum development on the grounds, prompted a major change in ownership. In 1772, an Act of Parliament (12 Geo. III, c. 43) facilitated an amicable exchange, transferring the site's rights from the see to the Crown in return for a new episcopal residence at Ely House in Dover Street, Mayfair; this concluded nearly 500 years of direct episcopal control over the Holborn estate.[19][2] The palace buildings were promptly razed after the sale, clearing the way for redevelopment into a compact residential cul-de-sac. In 1775, builder and surveyor Charles Cole oversaw the construction of the symmetrical Georgian terraces that now line Ely Place, creating an elegant, enclosed street of multi-storey houses designed for affluent private residents. This transformation retained key historical remnants, such as St Etheldreda's Church, while repurposing the expansive former palace grounds into a secluded urban retreat shielded from the surrounding bustle of Holborn.[2][20] Further refinements in the 19th century enhanced the street's functionality and prestige. The Ely Place and Ely Mews Improvement Act 1842 (5 & 6 Vict. c. xlviii) created a body of commissioners tasked with paving, lighting, watching, cleansing, and general improvements, which involved widening the entrance and repaving the roadway in the 1820s and 1840s to better accommodate carriage access while preserving its private character. These efforts, managed by the Commissioners of Ely Place, cemented the site's evolution into a gated enclave, distinct from the commercial intensity of nearby Hatton Garden.Notable Features
St Etheldreda's Church
St Etheldreda's Church, originally constructed between 1250 and 1290 as the private chapel for the Bishops of Ely, stands as one of only two surviving buildings in London from the reign of King Edward I.[1] Built by Bishop John de Kirkby, it served as the town chapel of the Episcopal Palace in Ely Place, a residence for the bishops when in London.[1] The church's enduring presence highlights its role within the medieval ecclesiastical landscape, predating many of the city's landmarks and escaping widespread destruction during later historical upheavals.[1] Architecturally, the church exemplifies early English Gothic style, with its crypt remaining largely intact from the 13th century, featuring original stone vaults and columns.[1] The upper chapel, added later and extensively restored in the 19th century under Father William Lockhart, includes a medieval timber roof and a choir screen designed by John Francis Bentley in 1892.[1] The church is a Grade I listed building.[21] Dedicated to St Etheldreda (Æthelthryth), the 7th-century Anglo-Saxon saint and founder of the Ely monastery, the church honors her legacy through elements like a 1952 East window by Joseph Edward Nuttgens depicting her life.[1] It also houses a relic of St Etheldreda's hand, gifted in 1877, which attracts pilgrims.[22] These features combine medieval authenticity with Victorian-era enhancements, preserving the site's historical integrity.[1] The church's religious history reflects England's turbulent shifts, serving as the bishops' Catholic chapel until the Reformation, when Mass was abolished under Henry VIII in 1534 and briefly restored under Mary I before being prohibited again under Elizabeth I.[1] Its status as a private chapel rather than a parish church allowed it to survive the dissolution intact, transitioning to Anglican use under the bishops until the 19th century.[1] In 1874, the Rosminian Fathers purchased the property for £5,400, with restorations allowing Catholic worship to resume in the crypt in 1876 and the upper church to be reopened in 1878, making it one of the oldest churches in England to be in use by the Catholic Church.[1] Today, St Etheldreda's remains an active Roman Catholic parish, hosting baptisms, weddings, funerals, and an annual Blessing of Throats on St Etheldreda's feast day, February 23.[1] It also organizes the Corpus Christi Strawberry Fayre each June, a tradition evoking the medieval palace gardens famed for their strawberries, which once supplied the royal court.[1][23] This event underscores the church's ongoing cultural and communal significance within Ely Place.[1]Ye Olde Mitre Pub
Ye Olde Mitre Pub, located in Ely Court off Ely Place, traces its origins to 1546, when it was established as a tavern to serve the household staff of the Bishops of Ely, whose palace once occupied the surrounding area.[24][25] The current structure was rebuilt in 1773 on the site of these earlier buildings, following the sale of the land to the Crown in 1772, making it one of London's older surviving pubs.[26] It claims Tudor roots tied to the original 1546 establishment, which catered to the gardeners and servants of Ely Palace.[27] Architecturally, the pub is concealed behind the gated entrance to Ely Court, contributing to its elusive charm accessible only to those who seek it out. A notable feature is the ancient cherry tree in its garden, around which Queen Elizabeth I is legendarily said to have danced with Sir Christopher Hatton in the late 16th century; the tree now props up part of the building's facade.[24][28] Inside, the interior boasts low-beamed ceilings, dark wood panelling, heavy oak furniture, and various historical artifacts, including Elizabethan memorabilia that evoke its longstanding heritage.[29] Historically, the pub remained under the ownership of the Bishops of Ely until the late 20th century, with its licenses traditionally issued from Cambridge, reflecting Ely Place's unique jurisdictional ties to Cambridgeshire. It is now operated by Fuller's Brewery, which maintains its traditional character.[28][24] The establishment has long served as a social hub in the legal district of Holborn, attracting lawyers from nearby courts and tourists drawn to its secretive location and atmospheric ambiance. Recognized for its preservation of pub traditions, it has earned accolades such as inclusion in CAMRA's National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors and multiple Good Pub Guide awards.[27]Governance and Administration
Commissioners of Ely Place
The Commissioners of Ely Place were established under the Ely Place and Ely Mews Improvement Act 1842, a local parliamentary act enacted to govern the redevelopment of the site of the former Ely Palace into a private gated road. This legislation created a dedicated body to manage the area's unique status as a private enclave, separate from standard municipal oversight.[30] The commissioners' primary roles and powers center on the maintenance and administration of Ely Place, including responsibility for paving and cleansing the roadway, installing and managing lighting, and providing "watching" for security purposes. These duties are funded through rates levied on property owners within the enclave, as authorized by the act and subsequent related legislation. Commissioners are elected by the property owners, forming a self-governing body that operates independently of the London Borough of Camden, in whose jurisdiction the street physically lies.[30][31][32] This administrative framework traces its origins to the medieval management of Ely Palace, the London residence of the Bishops of Ely from the 13th century onward, where estate stewards oversaw daily operations and security. The commissioners preserve elements of this heritage, notably through the employment of ceremonial beadles who wear traditional uniforms and guard the street's entrance from a dedicated gatehouse, a practice that echoes the palace's historical gatekeepers.[33] In modern operations, the commissioners enforce bylaws specific to the private road, collect rates to cover upkeep and staffing costs, and maintain the enclave's exclusivity, ensuring that access remains controlled while allowing public pedestrian passage under stipulated conditions. Their independence persists, with the body conducting annual elections and posting results publicly at the gatehouse.[32][33]Access and Security
Ely Place functions as a private gated enclave in central London, with entry controlled through a gatehouse at its southern end off Holborn Circus. Access is managed by beadles, ceremonial officers who staff the gatehouse and enforce the street's rules established by the Commissioners of Ely Place.[34][9] Pedestrians are permitted daytime entry without charge, allowing visitors to walk the length of the street, which serves as a cul-de-sac with no through traffic to maintain its residential character.[35][34] Vehicle access is strictly restricted to residents and authorized personnel, with barriers preventing unauthorized entry and ensuring the street remains free of non-essential traffic. The gates close at 10 p.m. nightly, limiting after-hours access.[9][34] Security is provided around the clock by the beadles, who monitor the premises as part of the commissioners' mandate for watching and improving the area, supplemented by the private nature of the street that deters casual intrusion. This setup contrasts sharply with the bustling public streets of Holborn, preserving a serene environment for the handful of residential and professional occupants amid the surrounding urban density.[35][34] While primarily residential, Ely Place accommodates visitors for specific purposes, including attendance at services and events at St Etheldreda's Church, which remains open to the public daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday and until 12:30 p.m. on Sundays. The Ye Olde Mitre pub, located in an adjacent courtyard, is accessible to patrons during its operating hours, typically weekdays from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Guided walking tours occasionally include Ely Place, highlighting its historical features under beadle oversight.[36][37][34]Transport and Connectivity
Road Access
Ely Place serves as a private gated cul-de-sac in central London, primarily accessible by road from the south via Holborn Circus through the main Ely Place Gate, where entry is overseen by commissionaires for security.[9] An alternative vehicular and pedestrian approach exists from the north, via Charterhouse Street and the narrow Ely Court alleyway, which connects directly into the upper end of the street.[3][38] Classified as an unadopted private road branching off the A201 Farringdon Road near Holborn Circus, Ely Place lacks any direct connections to major highways, reinforcing its role as a secluded enclave amid the bustling City of London traffic network. On-street parking within the cul-de-sac is limited and reserved mainly for residents, often requiring permits, while private garaging is available for some properties; delivery vehicles must pass through controlled gates, with access granted only during specified hours to preserve the area's quiet residential character.[39][40] The street's discreet gated entrances and position off main thoroughfares frequently lead to navigation difficulties for unfamiliar drivers, though signage from adjacent junctions like Holborn Circus aids in locating the primary entry point.[41]Public Transport
Ely Place is conveniently accessible via several nearby public transport options in central London. The closest Underground and rail stations are Farringdon, approximately 0.3 miles (5-minute walk) to the northeast, served by the Elizabeth line, Thameslink, Circle, Hammersmith & City, and Metropolitan lines, providing seamless connections across the city and beyond.[42] Chancery Lane station, about 0.2 miles (3-minute walk) to the west, offers Central line services for quick access to the West End and east London.[38][43] Multiple bus routes serve stops at Holborn Circus and along Farringdon Road, just steps from Ely Place's entrance. Routes such as the 8 (from Tottenham Court Road to Bow Church), 25 (from Ilford to Oxford Circus), and 242 (from Homerton Hospital to Aldgate) provide frequent services, connecting to key areas like the City of London, Bloomsbury, and east London destinations.[44][45][46] Night buses including N8, N25, and N242 ensure 24-hour accessibility. The location's integration with the Elizabeth line at Farringdon enhances connectivity, offering direct trains to Heathrow Airport (about 37 minutes), Reading (about 35 minutes), and Shenfield (about 25 minutes). Walking from either Farringdon or Chancery Lane involves straightforward routes along Charterhouse Street or Hatton Garden, making Ely Place pedestrian-friendly without a direct Tube entrance on the street itself. For cycling, several Santander Cycles docking stations are in close proximity, including at Holborn Circus (with capacity for 27 bikes) and Hatton Garden, allowing easy rental for short trips around Holborn and Clerkenwell; e-bikes are available as of 2025.[47][48]References
- https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Page:Dictionary_of_National_Biography_volume_29.djvu/433