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French knickers
French knickers
French knickers
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A woman wearing French knickers and a frilly white crop top

French knickers (also known as tap pants in the United States) are a type of women's underwear or lingerie. The term is predominantly used in the United Kingdom and Australia[citation needed] to describe loose-fitting underpants resembling shorts. French knickers sit at the hips, covering the upper thigh and fully concealing the buttocks. They feature an 'open leg' design, meaning the leg openings are loose rather than elasticated, allowing for a more comfortable fit.[1] The straight-cut cuffs may be plain or adorned with decorative trimming, and the fabric is often bias-cut to improve drape and movement.

French knickers are not to be confused with other underpants styles such as hipsters, briefs, bikini bottoms and boyshorts, all of which feature elasticated leg openings and fit snug to the body.

French knickers are ideally accompanied by full, flared, and A-Line skirts, trousers, and dresses, as they can add bulk and produce a visible panty line (VPL). The item is an elegant and comfortable alternative to more fitted forms of underwear and luxury fabrics such as silk are often used in their production.

History

[edit]

The French knicker style evolved from pantalettes and open drawers, which were loose, long-legged undergarments worn during the Victorian era. The term may have originated from the frilled pantalettes associated with Parisian Can-Can dancers, a style prevalent from the late 19th to early 20th century. However, the term 'French knickers' is not used by the French.[1] During the 1920s and 1930s, French knickers were highly popular. However, by the 1940s and 1950s, briefs—often featuring elasticated waistbands—became the preferred choice for most women,[2] perhaps due to fabric shortages and the scarcity of silk. By the 1950s, fitted underpants were almost universally worn.

During the nostalgia revival of the 1970s, French knickers regained popularity through the designs of Janet Reger and others, particularly appealing to a speciality market in the 1980s. Their popularity declined again in the 1990s as younger consumers gravitated toward other underwear styles, such as briefs and thongs. Today, French knickers remain available, primarily through vintage reproduction brands and speciality retailers.

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

French knickers

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
French knickers, also known as tap pants, are a style of women's underwear or consisting of loose-fitting, short-legged that provide a comfortable and elegant alternative to more form-fitting . Typically crafted from lightweight, luxurious fabrics such as or , they feature a relaxed that drapes softly over the hips, often with delicate trims or elastic waists for a feminine touch. Originating in the era, French knickers evolved from earlier undergarments like , reflecting a shift toward greater for women as hemlines began to rise. They gained widespread popularity in the , where wide, frilly versions—often open-legged or paired with camisoles—suited the era's shorter skirts and liberated fashion, becoming a staple for both practicality and style. This golden age extended through the 1930s and 1940s, with bias-cut designs fastened at the hips using buttons rather than elastic, enhancing their allure as sensual worn by Hollywood icons of the era. By the 1950s, the rise of more streamlined, form-fitting undergarments led to a decline in their prominence, though they persisted in various forms like the closer-fitting Directoire knickers with elasticated edges. In contemporary fashion, French knickers have experienced a revival through vintage-inspired trends, luxury brands, and the growing emphasis on comfortable, body-positive , often reimagined in modern fabrics like crepe de chine or with embellishments.

Description

Etymology and Terminology

The term "French knickers" first appeared in English in the , with the earliest documented use occurring in in the British newspaper Staffordshire Sentinel. This nomenclature derived from the era's fascination with Parisian fashion, particularly the loose-fitting undergarments associated with dancers in late 19th- and early 20th-century cabarets, which evoked a of risqué despite the style's broader European influences. Notably, the term is not employed in itself, where similar garments are referred to differently, reflecting its status as an Anglo-centric label tied to perceived French sophistication. In regional terminology, "French knickers" is predominantly a British and Australian designation for loose-fitting, shorts-style women's underwear that covers the upper thighs while allowing . This contrasts with the American term "tap pants," which describes an analogous lightweight, often silk or satin, lingerie item originating from dancewear influences in the 1920s. In , equivalents are typically called culottes (for general ) or shorty for shorter variants, underscoring how linguistic preferences vary by cultural context without altering the garment's core design. The phrase gained traction in English-language fashion catalogs during the late and , where it was marketed as a modern evolution from Victorian-era drawers, emphasizing comfort and brevity for silhouette.

Physical Characteristics

French knickers are characterized by a loose-fitting style that resembles shorts, designed to sit low on the hips and extend to cover the upper while fully concealing the . This silhouette provides a relaxed, non-constricting fit that allows for ease of movement, setting it apart from the form-fitting nature of modern briefs. The garment typically features open leg openings without elastic, ensuring a smooth profile under clothing such as flared skirts or to avoid visible lines. Key design elements include non-elasticated, straight-cut or flared leg cuffs, often measuring around 20 inches in width at the knee in historical examples, which contribute to the airy, skirt-like appearance. Optional decorative trims, such as insertions or , may adorn the leg openings and side panels, enhancing the feminine aesthetic without compromising comfort. Construction frequently employs bias-cut fabric to promote natural drape and flexibility, using lightweight materials like or for a soft feel against the skin. The hip area is secured through simple closures rather than elastic waists, commonly via buttons, ties, or side seams, allowing adjustability while maintaining the overall loose structure. For instance, many examples feature a single or small number of buttons positioned along one side for fastening. This combination of features results in a garment that prioritizes and subtlety, originally associated with 1920s-1930s trends for its compatibility with shorter hemlines. Sizing emphasizes a generous, flowing fit, with circumferences around 62 cm and lengths up to 50 cm in preserved specimens, accommodating a range of body types without tightness.

Historical Development

Victorian Predecessors

In the early , spanning the 1830s to 1850s, women's undergarments evolved to include , which served as loose, long-legged coverings worn beneath dresses primarily for modesty. These garments originated in in the early 19th century and quickly spread to Britain and America, consisting of either a one-piece or two separate legs attached at the waist with buttons or laces, extending to ankle length and featuring an open crotch for practical hygiene. Made from white linen or cotton, often adorned with tucks, , or , provided essential coverage as skirt hemlines rose slightly, exposing more of the lower leg in fashionable ensembles. By the mid-to-late Victorian period, from the 1860s to 1890s, transitioned into , bifurcated undergarments with an open-crotch design that joined only at the , tied with drawstrings for secure fit. Crafted from practical materials like or , these drawers maintained the divided leg structure for ease of bodily functions, reflecting a shift from the fuller while accommodating the era's voluminous crinolines and hoop skirts. This evolution was influenced by middle-class adoption in the 1840s, where drawers became a standard layer for amid expanding skirts that demanded additional lower-body protection. The development of these undergarments was driven by social imperatives for female , , and practicality in an age of that restricted movement. As women's attire incorporated more petticoats and crinolines for the bell-shaped , drawers addressed hygiene needs by allowing restroom access without full undressing, while their voluminous form aligned with the full skirts of the period to preserve propriety. A key transition occurred in the late , when drawer legs began shortening from ankle length to just below the knee, coinciding with subtle rises in outer dress hemlines and emerging dress reform movements that emphasized greater mobility. This adjustment, seen in increasingly embellished examples by the , laid groundwork for more streamlined undergarment styles in the following century without altering the open-crotch practicality.

Edwardian Origins

French knickers originated in the early 20th century during the (1901–1910) and into the 1910s, evolving from the restrictive Victorian and drawers into loose-fitting, shorter styles that provided greater freedom of movement as hemlines began to rise. These early versions marked a shift toward lighter, more elegant undergarments, setting the stage for their popularity in the subsequent decade.

Interwar Period Emergence

The emergence of French knickers in the marked a significant shift in women's undergarments, evolving from the longer Victorian drawers into shorter, thigh-length styles to accommodate the rising hemlines of fashion and the era's emphasis on liberated movement. As skirts shortened dramatically during the trend, traditional full-length became impractical, prompting the development of loosely fitted shorts known as tap pants or French knickers, which provided coverage while aligning with the boyish popularized by the modern woman. By the , French knickers underwent refinements that enhanced their fit and elegance, incorporating cross-cut designs to allow the fabric to drape smoothly over the hips and thighs for greater comfort under the era's form-fitting -cut dresses. These garments often featured shell buttons at the hips for closure, eliminating the need for elastic, and were associated with prestigious Parisian houses such as Worth and Doeuillet-Doucet, which produced luxurious versions in and . Their popularity surged due to Hollywood's portrayal of glamorous in , where stars wore similar styles to evoke sensuality. magazines of the time promoted French knickers as luxurious alternatives to standard knickers, highlighting their frilly, wide-leg forms as essential for the sophisticated wardrobe. in by British brands like Kestos made these items accessible beyond high-end couture, with frilly, wide-leg versions becoming iconic symbols of interwar elegance and available in department stores across the .

Post-War Changes

During the 1940s, fabric and elastic shortages in the UK and drove a shift toward more practical, shorter underwear styles to conserve materials. In the UK, elastic was severely limited under clothing rationing introduced in 1941, with women's knickers among the few garments still permitted to use it, but the scheme restricted overall fabric consumption, promoting simpler designs with less volume. In the , the War Production Board's L-85 order of 1942 mandated reductions in fabric use by 15 percent, including shorter hems and elimination of pleats and ruffles, which favored efficient elasticated briefs over loose, fabric-intensive styles like French knickers. The 1950s brought further transformation with Christian Dior's "New Look," unveiled in 1947, which emphasized a cinched waist and full skirts requiring supportive, form-fitting undergarments such as girdles and snug briefs to maintain the silhouette. Advancements in synthetic fabrics, including nylon and emerging Lycra blends, facilitated this preference for tighter, lightweight fits that were more comfortable and versatile than voluminous knickers. By the late 1950s, French knickers had become perceived as outdated in Europe and North America, with their production declining sharply as briefs dominated the market.

Modern Interpretations

Late 20th Century Revival

In the , French knickers experienced a notable revival, driven primarily by British designer Janet Reger, who reintroduced luxurious versions adorned with delicate trims. This resurgence aligned with the era's sexual liberation movement and a growing fascination with vintage-inspired , appealing to women seeking more romantic and indulgent undergarments amid broader cultural shifts toward personal expression. Reger's designs, often featuring soft, flowing silhouettes in high-quality fabrics, positioned French knickers as a symbol of feminine sensuality and for pre-war elegance. By the , French knickers reached a peak in popularity, integrating into the power dressing aesthetic that defined the decade's and glamorous style. They were frequently offered in matching sets with camisoles or bras, crafted from slinky or and lavishly trimmed with corded , providing a romantic counterpoint to the era's more minimal styles. These pieces appeared prominently in catalogs, such as the J.C. Penney edition, and were stocked in upscale boutiques, emphasizing their role as both everyday luxury and seductive alternatives for working women. Brands like contributed to this trend by selling bias-cut versions that prioritized comfort and drape, ideal for layering under tailored suits in settings. Following the , French knickers experienced a gradual decline as fashion norms shifted toward in the late , with younger consumers favoring sleeker options like G-strings and thongs. This reflected a broader for barely-there silhouettes over fuller, more coverage-oriented designs, though French knickers retained a legacy in high-end lines where their elegant, vintage appeal continued to influence premium collections.

Contemporary Availability

Since the early , French knickers have been primarily available as vintage reproductions from specialized brands, with What Katie Did producing 1940s- and 1950s-inspired styles in and high-waist designs. Similarly, offers luxury interpretations of full-brief and high-waisted knickers in silk and , emphasizing opulent, flirtatious aesthetics. These reproductions often incorporate sustainable materials, such as from brands like Buttress & Snatch, which uses unbleached for frilly knickers to reduce environmental impact, and Kharites H , featuring GOTS-certified paired with French . Modern adaptations of French knickers include hybrid designs with subtle elastic waistbands for added versatility and comfort, moving beyond traditional loose fits while retaining the floaty . These are widely available in plus sizes and inclusive fits through online retailers; for instance, stocks curve-specific high-waist French knickers in lace from Figleaves, sized up to 24, and features handmade options extending to XXXL with customizable elastic elements. In contemporary markets, French knickers hold niche appeal within , bridal, and loungewear segments, where they are styled as playful, ruffled pieces for performances or intimate occasions. The post-2010s sustainability movement has driven growth in eco-friendly versions, with like Peau Ethique producing and variants in under fair labor standards, reflecting broader industry shifts toward ethical production. Global access remains centered in the UK and , where brands like What Katie Did and Australian Etsy sellers dominate production, but online exports enable worldwide availability through platforms like and Agent Provocateur's international sites. Pricing varies from affordable high-street options, such as French knickers at around £20-£30, to luxury pieces exceeding £50, like Fleur of England's silk-lace designs at £150 or more. In Spring/Summer 2025 collections, vintage underwear styles have gained renewed attention on runways, with designers like presenting frothy lace and frilly inspired by French antique underwear, signaling a broader trend blending with modern .

Cultural Impact

Association with

Despite not being a garment commonly worn or termed as such in , where it is known as "culotte-caleçon," French knickers evoke a perception of French rooted in the and Parisian ateliers. The loose, bias-cut aligns with the innovative techniques pioneered by designers like , whose fluid silhouettes emphasized sensuality and graceful movement over restrictive utility, influencing lingerie during the . In Anglo-American cultural views, French knickers symbolize romance and sophistication, perpetuating stereotypes of French women as embodiments of allure, often because interwar marketing portrayed anything risqué or luxurious in undergarments as inherently "French." This "French " trope in promotion from the onward reinforced the style's association with Parisian glamour, despite its primary popularity in Britain and . The style's bias-cutting techniques have subtly inspired global trends, focusing on luxurious fabrics and subtle sensuality. A key distinction lies in the garment's loose fit, which contrasts with contemporary French preferences for more fitted options like tangas that prioritize seamless, body-conforming silhouettes.

Depictions in Media

French knickers have appeared in British television during the 1970s and 1980s, often as comedic or nostalgic elements in -focused narratives. In the sitcom Are You Being Served? (1972–1985), set in a department store's ladies' intimate apparel section, episodes like "Dear Sexy Knickers" (1973) highlighted sales and mishaps, portraying knickers as everyday yet humorous items of feminine attire. Similarly, 1980s American shows such as and Dynasty featured luxurious in bedroom scenes, emphasizing sensual domestic settings. In modern burlesque-inspired films, French knickers contribute to revivals of vintage glamour. The 2010 film Burlesque, directed by Steve Antin, showcases elaborate lingerie ensembles in performance sequences, symbolizing empowerment and artistic expression through retro styles that evoke 1920s flapper aesthetics. Literature and advertising have referenced French knickers as symbols of allure and femininity. In 1980s romance novels, such as those by Harlequin authors, they often appear as intimate garments denoting seduction and romance, aligning with narratives of desire. Vintage 1930s advertisements, including those in fashion magazines, promoted French knickers as elegant alternatives to fitted underwear, highlighting their luxury in silk and lace to appeal to the modern woman. In Angela Carter's postmodern literature, like The Magic Toyshop (1967), descriptions of French knickers in can-can performances blend whimsy and eroticism, underscoring themes of bodily freedom. Symbolically, French knickers have evolved from flapper icons of liberation—representing mobility under rising hemlines—to 21st-century feminist narratives of confidence and allure. Janet Reger's 1970s advertising campaigns exemplified this shift, depicting French knickers in silk and chiffon as bold, sensual statements of female empowerment and fantasy, transforming into aspirational luxury.

References

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