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Birdsville Track
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The Birdsville Track is an outback road in Australia. The 517-kilometre (321 mi) track runs between Birdsville in south-western Queensland and Marree, a small town in the north-eastern part of South Australia. It traverses three deserts along the route, the Strzelecki Desert, Sturt Stony Desert and Tirari Desert.
Key Information
Originally the track was of poor quality and suitable for high-clearance four-wheel drive vehicles only, but it is now a graded dirt road and a popular tourist route. It is also used by cattle trucks carrying livestock. The track passes through one of the driest parts of Australia, with an average rainfall of less than 100 mm annually.[3] The area is extremely barren, dry and isolated. Travellers should carry water and supplies in case of emergencies.
History
[edit]The track was opened in the 1860s to walk cattle from northern Queensland and the Northern Territory to the nearest railhead in Port Augusta, which was later moved to Marree. The pioneering drover credited with establishing the track was Percy Burt.[3] Burt set up a store at Diamantina Crossing, today known as Birdsville, and used the path to bring cattle out of the Channel Country to the railhead at Marree that was completed in 1883. This stock route was at least 1,000 km shorter than the alternative path to Brisbane.[3]
By 1916 enough bores had been sunk into the Great Artesian Basin along the route that the movement of stock was much easier and safer than in earlier years.[3] Bores were drilled at 40 km intervals.
An isolated store along the track operated for several decades from the Mulka Station. The Mulka Store Ruins are listed in the South Australian Heritage Register.[4]
Over the years the Birdsville track became one of the country's most isolated and best-known stock routes, as well as a mail route made famous by outback legend Tom Kruse. Tom Kruse and the track were immortalised in The Back of Beyond, the 1954 documentary film made by John Heyer. Kruse's services ceased in 1963, replaced by an air service from Adelaide that started in 1970.[3]
In 2006, as part of the Year of the Outback, the Australian Governor-General, Michael Jeffery, travelled along the track in a 5-day event.[5]
The route was earmarked to be signed as part National Route 83 in the original plan of National Routes. It was to start in southern SA before travelling north through to far-north QLD. The route was never fully signed, the Birdsville Track being still largely unsealed.[6]
During the COVID-19 pandemic, the track experienced a boost in popularity among drivers taking the route to avoid New South Wales and possible quarantine.[7]
Today
[edit]Up until the 1930s only stock and camel trains would take the Birdsville track. Today, it has become a very popular track. As a result, the track is reasonably well maintained and generally fairly smooth. However like any outback track, its condition can change, especially after rain. Large stretches of the track can still be destroyed by flash flooding and drifting sand.[3]
In dry conditions, a shorter route at the northern end depicted on maps as the "Inside track" saves 35 kilometres in distance.[8] Other than this, the road has no major intersections.
Fuel, supplies and facilities, including a hotel, can be found on the track at the Mungeranie station, 204 km from Marree and 313 km from Birdsville. It is linked with the Strzelecki Track via the Walkers Crossing Track, which is closed in summer and only traversable in dry weather.[9][10]
Major junctions
[edit]| State | LGA[11] | Location[1][12] | km[1] | mi | Destinations[11] | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Queensland | Diamantina | Birdsville | 0 | 0.0 | Northern terminus of track | |
| 4 | 2.5 | |||||
| State border | 13 | 8.1 | Queensland – South Australia border | |||
| South Australia | Outback Communities Authority | Mungeranie | 314 | 195 | Mungeranie Roadhouse | |
| Marree | 517 | 321 | Oodnadatta Track (north) – William Creek, Oodnadatta The Outback Highway (south) – Lyndhurst, Hawker | Southern terminus of track | ||
| ||||||
In popular culture
[edit]The miniseries Alice to Nowhere and the book by Evan Green on which it is based, are largely set on the Birdsville Track. The show heavily features a mail truck which may have been based on the Leyland Badger driven by Tom Kruse.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ a b c "Birdsville Track" (Map). Google Maps. Retrieved 30 May 2022.
- ^ "Far North SA government region" (PDF). The Government of South Australia. Retrieved 16 August 2015.
- ^ a b c d e f Reardon, Mitch (1995). The Australian Geographic Book of Corner Country. Terrey Hills, New South Wales: Australian Geographic. pp. 141–151. ISBN 1-86276-012-8.
- ^ "Mulka Store (sometime Scobie Homestead) Ruins". South Australian Heritage Register. Department of Environment, Water and Natural Resources. Archived from the original on 15 February 2016. Retrieved 12 February 2016.
- ^ Annabelle Homer (11 March 2006). "Up the Birdsville Track with GG". ABC Rural. Australian Broadcasting Corporation. Retrieved 25 October 2009.
- ^ "Driving the Birdsville Track". Royal Automobile Association of South Australia. 2017. Retrieved 11 November 2017.
- ^ Birdsville Track dubbed ‘COVID highway’ after influx of holiday drivers (news.com.au)
- ^ Hema, Maps (2006). Australia’s Great Desert Tracks SE Sheet (Map). Eight Mile Plains Queensland: Hema Maps. ISBN 978-1-86500-162-3.
- ^ "Getting to Innamincka by road". Innamincka Hotel. Retrieved 12 December 2021.
- ^ "Birdsville Track Facts - How to prepare a trip". 6 April 2022. Archived from the original on 6 April 2022. Retrieved 6 April 2022.
- ^ a b A. J. Millazzo, Delegate of the Commissioner of Highways (21 January 2014). "Outback Road Names - North East" (PDF). Government of South Australia. Rack Plan 768. Archived (PDF) from the original on 27 December 2021. Retrieved 1 October 2014.
- ^ "Property Location Browser". Archived from the original on 12 October 2016. Retrieved 1 October 2014.
External links
[edit]Birdsville Track
View on GrokipediaGeography
Route and Description
The Birdsville Track is a 517-kilometre unsealed outback road linking Birdsville in southwestern Queensland to Marree in northeastern South Australia.[3][4] It serves as a historic stock route traversing remote arid landscapes, primarily suitable for four-wheel-drive vehicles due to its rough conditions.[3][4] Commencing at Birdsville, the track proceeds southward across the Queensland-South Australia border, roughly 200 kilometres from the start, entering the Tirari Desert and Sturt Stony Desert while skirting the western edges of the Simpson Desert.[4][3] The route features a mix of sandy tracks, gibber plains, and occasional wetlands associated with Lake Eyre catchments, with sparse vegetation dominated by saltbush and bluebush.[3] Notable landmarks include the Koonchera Sandhill near the northern end, Cooper Creek crossings, and the Cannuwaukaninna Bore, providing water points amid the otherwise dry terrain.[4] Further south, travellers encounter historical sites such as the Mulka Ruins and Lake Harry Ruins, remnants of early pastoral settlements, before reaching the halfway mark at Mungerannie Roadhouse for fuel and rest.[4][3] The track continues through additional desert expanses, passing Kalamurina Station for camping opportunities and Clayton's artesian spa, before descending to Marree, where it connects to other outback roads.[3] The entire journey typically requires two days, emphasizing the need for preparation including spare tyres and ample water given the isolation and potential for vehicle damage from sharp stones.[3][4]Terrain and Environmental Features
The Birdsville Track spans approximately 520 kilometers through remote arid landscapes of South Australia and Queensland, encompassing stony deserts, gibber plains, and transverse sand dunes typical of Australia's Channel Country. The terrain is predominantly rough and corrugated, with surfaces comprising compacted sand overlaid by gibbers—rounded quartzite pebbles formed from weathered duricrust—leading to low average vehicle speeds of 20-40 km/h depending on conditions.[5][6] Southern and central portions traverse the Sturt Stony Desert, characterized by expansive, barren gibber pavements and red stony tablelands with minimal elevation change, while northern segments feature the yellower, undulating dunes of the Natterannie Sandhills and approaches to the Simpson Desert's longitudinal sand ridges, which can reach heights of 10-30 meters. These features result from aeolian processes and fluvial deposition in a hyper-arid setting, with the track avoiding major watercourses except where influenced by occasional overflows from the Cooper Creek.[5][4][7] Soils along the route include deep black cracking clays on intermittently flooded plains supporting Mitchell grass (Astrebla spp.) and lignum (Muehlenbeckia florulenta) thickets, interspersed with red sandy loams and skeletal soils on dunes and stony rises that host sparse chenopod shrublands of bluebush (Maireana spp.) and saltbush (Atriplex spp.). Vegetation remains low and resilient to drought, with ephemeral forbs and grasses emerging post-rainfall events that average under 150 mm annually, enabling sporadic pastoral productivity despite the overall desolation.[4][7][8] Environmental challenges include extreme diurnal temperature ranges exceeding 30°C, frequent dust and wind erosion, and near-total absence of permanent surface water, rendering the area ecologically fragile and dependent on rare flood pulses for biodiversity hotspots like temporary wetlands. These conditions, shaped by subtropical high-pressure systems and distance from moisture sources, underscore the track's role as a corridor through some of Australia's most water-scarce terrains.[9][4][8]History
Indigenous and Pre-Colonial Origins
The Birdsville Track traverses the traditional lands of multiple Aboriginal language groups, principally the Wangkangurru and Yarluyandi peoples in its northern section near Birdsville (known traditionally as Wirrarri), and the Diyari (also spelled Dieri) towards the southern terminus at Marree, with overlaps into territories of groups such as the Yandruwandha and Arabana.[10][11] These groups maintained occupancy of the region for millennia, adapting to the semi-arid environment through intimate knowledge of ephemeral water sources, including soaks, claypans, and mound springs associated with the Cooper Creek and Diamantina River systems.[10][11] Archaeological evidence, such as stone tools and habitation scatters near permanent waterholes, confirms sustained human presence dating back at least 5,000 years in adjacent areas like the Simpson Desert.[11] Prior to European arrival, the track's alignment followed established Aboriginal pathways—often encoded in songlines—that linked reliable water points across the outback, enabling seasonal nomadic movement for hunting, gathering, and ceremonies rather than forming a single continuous "road."[11][12] These trails, maintained through cultural practices like fire management and water retention structures (e.g., Wangkangurru-built dams in dune corridors), supported survival in an ecosystem prone to prolonged droughts.[11] Key sites along or near the route, such as Koonchera Waterhole and Strzelecki Creek waterholes, held ceremonial importance, with stone arrangements and rock engravings attesting to ritual activities tied to ancestral beings and resource cycles.[11] A primary function of these pathways was inter-group trade, exemplified by the "Pituri Road," which channeled through Birdsville from the Channel Country (e.g., Bedourie) southward via the Lower Diamantina, Goyder Lagoon, Mungerannie, and Kopperamanna near Lake Eyre Basin.[13][10] Pituri, a potent narcotic from Duboisia hopwoodii leaves mixed with ash (containing up to 8% nicotine), was a staple commodity exchanged for red ochre, pearl shell, grinding stones, and weapons, with hubs like Kopperamanna ("where tribes gather to barter") facilitating exchanges across clans spanning over 550,000 square kilometers.[13][11] Oral histories and explorer records (e.g., from Charles Sturt in 1849) corroborate these networks, noting Aboriginal guides' expertise in navigating the same water-dependent corridors later co-opted for colonial stock routes.[11]European Exploration and Establishment (1860s–1880s)
The Burke and Wills expedition of 1860–1861 marked a pivotal European incursion into the region encompassing the future Birdsville Track, as the party traversed Cooper Creek and the Diamantina River, establishing Camp 65 at the Dig Tree site on December 16, 1860, near what would become key waterholes along the route.[11] Led by Robert O'Hara Burke, the expedition aimed to cross the continent from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria but suffered catastrophic losses due to inadequate preparation, seasonal flooding, and leadership errors, with Burke and William John Wills perishing by June 1861 and only John King surviving among the forward party.[11] Their mappings, though incomplete and marred by haste, confirmed the presence of intermittent water sources in the Channel Country, informing subsequent pastoral ventures despite the expedition's failure to establish a viable overland path.[14] Concurrently, John McDouall Stuart's expeditions from 1859 to 1862 identified Herrgott Springs (now Marree) in 1859, providing a southern anchor for potential stock routes linking to railheads.[11] Surveying efforts in the 1870s and 1880s delineated boundaries and water resources critical to the track's viability, with Augustus Poeppel conducting the South Australia-Queensland border survey starting in 1879, triangulating up to 26° S latitude to resolve land tenure ambiguities in the Cooper Basin.[11] Earlier, Samuel Parry's triangulation surveys from 1857 to 1858 in the northern Flinders Ranges facilitated pastoral lease registrations, while Benjamin Babbage's 1856 discovery of permanent water at Blanchewater underscored the area's grazing potential despite its aridity.[14] These works, supported by the Queensland Lands Act of 1860 which spurred leasehold expansions, mapped natural waterholes along Cooper and Strzelecki Creeks—remnants of ancient Aboriginal pathways—that would form the track's spine, enabling drovers to navigate the 517-kilometer corridor from Diamantina Crossing to Marree.[11] Droving activities formalized the route in the late 1870s and 1880s, as pastoralists sought outlets for Channel Country cattle amid droughts and market demands at South Australian railheads. John Conrick pioneered segments by driving 1,600 cattle from Victoria to Nappa Merrie in 1872 and exploring the Strzelecki Creek path with a dray in 1874, reaching Blanchewater on January 6, 1875, to establish supply links.[14] Harry Redford's 1870 overlanding of 1,000 cattle—stolen from Queensland properties—via Cooper and Strzelecki Creeks demonstrated the corridor's feasibility, though his route skirted legal channels.[11] Percy Burt solidified the track's establishment between 1883 and 1885, overlanding 1,200 cattle from Boulia to Marree in 1883 after opening a store at Diamantina Crossing in 1879; his efforts, culminating in route formalization by 1885, aligned with Birdsville's township survey that year and the 1883 border fencing, transforming exploratory paths into a defined stock conduit.[11]Stock Droving and Camel Era (Late 19th–Early 20th Century)
The Birdsville Track emerged as a vital overland stock route in the late 19th century, primarily for droving cattle from Queensland's Channel Country pastoral stations to the railhead at Marree, South Australia, amid the pastoral expansion following the 1860s droughts and land leases.[15] This facilitated the transport of beef cattle to southern markets, with drovers managing herds of up to several thousand head per drive, navigating the 517-kilometer arid corridor marked by gibber plains, sandhills, and intermittent waterholes.[2] Journeys typically lasted weeks, dependent on seasonal floods in the Cooper Creek system and the need to rest stock at claypans and bores, underscoring the route's role in sustaining inland grazing economies from the 1880s onward.[11] By the 1890s, the track supported substantial livestock movements, with historical estimates indicating around 50,000 cattle traversed it between 1890 and 1960, peaking during the late 19th and early 20th centuries as Queensland stations like those along the Diamantina River supplied markets amid rail limitations.[2] Droving parties, comprising mounted stockmen, Aboriginal assistants, and packhorses for provisions, contended with predatory dingoes, poisonous plants, and extreme temperatures, often averaging 10-20 kilometers daily to preserve animal condition.[15] The practice exemplified the era's reliance on human and equine labor for long-distance haulage, integral to Australia's wool and beef export growth until fencing and rail extensions diminished overlanding by the 1920s.[16] Parallel to cattle droving, camel trains dominated freight transport along the track from the late 1860s, operated by cameleers—predominantly Muslim immigrants from British India, Afghanistan, and the Middle East, collectively termed "Afghans"—who imported over 15,000 camels nationwide by 1900 for desert logistics.[17] Teams of 50-100 camels hauled wool bales, mining supplies, and mail over the route, covering the distance in approximately three weeks at rates suited to the water-scarce terrain where horses dehydrated rapidly.[18] Arriving in Marree from 1866, these caravans supported remote homesteads by delivering staples like flour and tools, with cameleers camping at established wells and enduring sandstorms and isolation until truck competition eroded their role by the 1930s.[17]Mid-20th Century Transition
The introduction of motorized vehicles marked a pivotal shift on the Birdsville Track during the mid-20th century, supplanting camel and horse-based transport for mail and supplies. In 1926, the mail service transitioned from camels to trucks, initiating the decline of traditional methods.[11] This culminated in 1936 when Henry Edgar "Harry" Ding secured the fortnightly Marree-Birdsville mail contract, employing Tom Kruse to inaugurate the service using a five-ton truck, thereby ending the camel transport era that had relied on strings of up to 70 animals.[19] Kruse's Leyland Badger truck navigated the 531 km route biweekly, delivering mail, medicine, and goods to remote stations despite floods, sandhills, and mechanical failures, often towing stranded vehicles or repairing en route.[20] Stock droving, the Track's primary historical function since the 1860s, also waned as post-World War II surplus trucks became affordable, enabling road transport over long hoof drives. Up to the 1930s, the route accommodated primarily stock and camel trains, but by the 1940s, droving diminished sharply due to vehicle competition, droughts, and predation pressures like dingoes, with related creek-line droving ceasing by 1933.[11] Sheep stations converted to cattle or closed amid these changes, and by 1960, road trains handled 80% of cattle movement, reversing the prior hoof dominance observed in 1959.[11] Federal beef road funding in the mid-1960s further formalized vehicular use, though the Track remained unsealed and challenging.[11] Kruse's service concluded in 1957 after his truck's final breakdown, coinciding with improved aviation options that reduced reliance on overland runs.[20] This era's innovations, including radio communication introduced by Ding in the mid-1930s, enhanced reliability but highlighted the Track's enduring harshness, with feral camels persisting as occasional nuisances into the 1940s.[19][11] By the late 1950s, the route's role pivoted toward sporadic pastoral logistics and emerging tourism, underscoring the obsolescence of pre-motorized practices.[11]Modern Infrastructure and Maintenance
Road Conditions and Upgrades
The Birdsville Track consists primarily of unsealed gravel and dirt surfaces, necessitating high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles for safe traversal due to corrugations, soft sand sections, and bull dust holes that can conceal deep ruts.[21] Travel is restricted on the Queensland portion from the South Australian border to Birdsville, with conditions varying from firm gibber plains to eroded floodways, and the track is routinely closed during or after significant rainfall to prevent vehicle bogging and structural damage.[22] Average annual maintenance includes dry and wet grading operations managed by the South Australian Department for Infrastructure and Transport, typically performed post-rain events or seasonally to restore drivability, though specific schedules for the track are weather-dependent and not fixed.[23] Flooding at the Cooper Creek crossing has historically rendered the track impassable for extended periods, disrupting pastoral transport and tourism, with closures often lasting weeks or months following upstream rainfall in Queensland.[24] To address this, the South Australian government initiated a barge project in 2025, constructing a heavy-vehicle-capable ferry system to enable crossings during high water levels; components including winches, handrails, and ramps were installed progressively through mid-2025, with final on-site assembly completed by September.[24] The barge underwent testing in late October 2025, prioritizing access for livestock haulers and essential services before opening to public bookings in early November, thereby reducing isolation risks for remote communities without altering the track's unsealed nature.[24] No comprehensive sealing or paving upgrades have been implemented, as such changes would compromise the route's heritage status and environmental adaptation to arid conditions.[21]Key Facilities and Junctions
The Birdsville Track features limited infrastructure owing to its remote outback location, with services concentrated at endpoints and a single major roadhouse midway. Marree at the southern terminus provides comprehensive amenities including fuel, water, toilets, powered and unpowered camping, food, cabins, and a pub, while Birdsville at the northern end offers similar full services.[8] Key intermediate facilities include the Mungerannie Hotel and Roadhouse, located approximately 204 kilometers north of Marree and 313 kilometers south of Birdsville, which supplies fuel (unleaded and diesel), meals, basic provisions, toilets, showers, camping sites, cabins, and minor repairs such as tyre services, alongside an artesian pool for respite. Additional minor stops provide essential bush amenities: Clayton Station, 53 kilometers from Marree, features toilets, hot showers, artesian spa bathing, unpowered camping, and luxury units but no fuel; the Cooper Creek official campsite, around 200 kilometers from Marree, offers toilets, drinking water, and free dispersed camping; and Tippipila Creek, 383 kilometers from Marree, includes toilets, bore water access, and free camping without fuel availability.[8][4][7]| Stop/Facility | Distance from Marree (km) | Primary Services |
|---|---|---|
| Clayton Station | 53 | Toilets, showers, camping, no fuel |
| Cooper Creek | 200 | Toilets, drinking water, camping |
| Mungerannie Roadhouse | 204 | Fuel, food, accommodation, repairs |
| Tippipila Creek | 383 | Toilets, bore water, camping |
