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William Underwood Company
William Underwood Company
William Underwood Company
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The William Underwood Company, founded in 1822, was an American food company best known for its flagship product Underwood Deviled Ham, a canned meat spread. The company had a key role in time-temperature research done at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) from 1895 to 1896, which led to the development of food science and food technology as a profession.

Key Information

History

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Canned foods

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William Underwood (1787–1864).

Before moving to the United States, William Underwood (1787–1864) worked as an apprentice at Mackey & Company in London, bottling food and exporting it to South America. He moved to the United States in 1817, arriving at New Orleans.[1][2] According to family legend he walked from New Orleans to Boston.[citation needed]

The William Underwood Company of Boston was established by Underwood in 1822 in Boston, Massachusetts, as a condiment company using glass packing techniques. Among the condiments and other items glass packed were mustard, ketchup of various kinds, many types of pickled vegetables, and cranberries, primarily focusing on mustard and pickling. In 1836, Underwood shifted from glass to steel cans, coated with tin on the inside, because glassmakers in the Boston area could not keep up with product demands from the canning company.[3] The company shipped its products to South America, the West Indies and in Asia. In 1939, the bookkeepers of the William Underwood Company standardized the use of the word 'can' instead of 'tin canister'.[2]

Underwood's canned foods proved valuable to settlers during the Manifest Destiny period of 1840–60. Later, Underwood sold canned foods to Union troops during the American Civil War of 1861–65. The number of canned products increased to include seafood products, such as lobster, oyster, and mackerel. William Underwood died in 1864, the same year that William Lyman Underwood, one of his three grandsons, was born. Underwood's son, William James Underwood, headed the business, as new retort technology was developed for use. In 1880, Underwood opened the first sardine factory in Jonesport, Maine, known as one of the largest sardine factories in the world.[4][5]

In 1896, the William Underwood Company started to export its spread ham to Venezuela, leading to the creation of the brand 'Diablitos Underwood deviled ham' in 1960 by General Mills.[6] In 1906, the Massachusetts Board of Health banned all deviled meats, except Underwood's,[why?] from sale in Massachusetts.[7] The National Billposters' Association, based in Chicago, center of America's meat packing industry at the time, then banned its members from posting bills with devil images[why?] on them.[8] In 1907, a shipment of Underwood canned goods was denied entry on the territory by the Argentinian customs because small traces of boric acid were found in the canned foods.[9]

Research with MIT

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From its beginning, the company encountered the problem of cans swelling, causing a great deal of product loss.[10][page needed] In late 1895, William Lyman Underwood, a grandson of the founder, approached William Thompson Sedgwick, the chair of the biology department at MIT about the concerns he had with product swells and the explosion of cans of clams. Sedgwick conferred with his assistant, Samuel Cate Prescott, and from late 1895 to late 1896, Prescott and Underwood worked on the problem every afternoon, focusing on canned clams. They discovered that the clams contained heat-resistant bacterial spores that were able to survive the processing. They learned that these spores' presence depended on the clams' living environment, and that these spores would be killed if processed at 250 °F (121 °C) for 10 minutes in a retort.[11][12]

These studies prompted similar research of canned lobster, sardines, peas, tomatoes, corn, and spinach.[13] Prescott and Underwood's work was first published in late 1897.[13] This research, which was never patented,[14] proved beneficial to the William Underwood Company, the canning industry, the food industry, and food technology itself.[15]

In the mid-1950s, outgoing company president W. Durant brought new president George Seybolt to MIT to meet Prescott.[16] At the Institute of Food Technologists Northeast Section (Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont) meeting at Watertown, Massachusetts, in April 1961, the William Underwood Company dedicated a new laboratory in honor of both Prescott and William Lyman Underwood.[17]

Following Prescott's death in 1962, the William Underwood Company created the Underwood Prescott Memorial Lectureship in memory of both Underwood and Prescott.[18] This Lectureship ran until 1982. In 1969, Seybolt donated $600,000 (equivalent to $5,145,000 in 2024)[19] to MIT to create the Underwood Professorship,[18] followed up with an Underwood Prescott Professorship in 1972.[20] Three MIT faculty have held this professorship since its inception: Samuel A. Goldblith,[20] Gerald N. Wogan,[20] and since 1996, Steven R. Tannenbaum.[21]

Expansion in 1960s

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Underwood acquired the Appert label in 1964,[2] and the Burnham & Morrill (B&M) Company of Portland, Maine, in 1965.[22] B&M had purchased canned clams and tomatoes from Underwood in the late 1860s for resale, before producing these products on its own. Baked beans were the best known product that B&M produced, which it began doing in the 1920s with its Brick Oven Baked Beans.[22] Piermont Foods, a food company in Montreal, Canada, was acquired in 1968[22] in order for Underwood to sell its products north of the border. In 1974, Underwood acquired the canned goods producer Shippam's.[23]

Sale to PET

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Underwood, which up to this point had been privately owned by the Underwood family, was sold to Pet, Inc., in 1982.[24] B&M Foods was included as part of the sale, and the Underwood headquarters building in Westwood, Massachusetts, was closed as a result. In 1995, the Pillsbury Company acquired Pet, Inc.,[24] and began a modernization process that included warehousing, production, and processing. In 1999, New York's B&G Foods acquired the Underwood foods business, including the line of Underwood's canned meat spreads, sardines, B&M products, and Ac'cent flavor enhancer.[25]

[edit]

Underwood first canned deviled ham in 1868, as a mixture of ground ham with various seasonings. Deviling was done with other meat and seafood products, including turkey, chicken, tongue and lobster. "Deviling" consists of adding spices such as pepper sauce, cayenne pepper, Dijon mustard, or chopped chili peppers. Deviled eggs are one well-known example of this process. The devil logo was trademarked in 1870. The company claims that it is the oldest food trademark still in use in the United States. The red devil that debuted in 1895 and started as a demonic figure evolved into a much friendlier version when compared to the original.

The older version, in use during the first half of the 20th century, can be seen in many old magazine advertisements, such as one from Woman's Home Companion, August 1921.[26] It lacks the pitchfork and smile of the modern version, and has long fingernails or claws not found in the modern version. The barbed tail is in the shape of the letter W, and along with the lower-case M to the right of the devil forms the abbreviation "Wm.", for William, as in William Underwood. The opening scene in William Faulkner's 1938 short story "Barn Burning" makes reference to the original logo.

The lettering in the logo and on the can spouting small flames, reinforcing the spicy devil concept. In 2008, B&G Foods updated the devil logo by adding color to the previously all-red image. The pitchfork became black, and small amounts of yellow were added in the tail and horns, along with shading to add depth. The yellow in the tail and horns was later removed. The devil logo has appeared on Underwood products that are not deviled, as part of the overall brand identity, such as sardines, liverwurst, corned beef and chicken spreads and chicken breast. In the 1980s, an animated version of the devil logo was created for TV advertising.[27]

Other companies have sold deviled ham products. In 1900, at least seven other companies produced their own versions of deviled ham, among them Armour and Company, and Libby's.[28]

  • An illustration of a can of Underwood Deviled Ham, 1921 advertisement.
    An illustration of a can of Underwood Deviled Ham, 1921 advertisement.
  • Advertising in the Ladies' Home Journal, 1948.
    Advertising in the Ladies' Home Journal, 1948.
  • 2008 logo from Underwood Chicken Spread. Color and shading were added to the previous logo.
    2008 logo from Underwood Chicken Spread. Color and shading were added to the previous logo.
  • Underwood Deviled Ham, 2019.
    Underwood Deviled Ham, 2019.

See also

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References

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Works cited

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  • Goldblith, S. A. (1993). Samuel Cate Prescott - M.I.T. Dean and Pioneer Food Technologist. Pioneers in Food Science. Vol. 1. Trumball, CT: Food and Nutrition Press. ISBN 0917678338.
  • Shaw, F. H. (1957). The history of the William Underwood Company, 1821-1954 (PhD thesis). Harvard University. HU 90.7263, film 6209.
[edit]
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William Underwood Company

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
The William Underwood Company was an American food manufacturing company founded in 1822 in , , by English immigrant William Underwood, best known as a pioneer in the industry and for its flagship product, Underwood Deviled Ham, the oldest continuously used trademarked food in the United States. Initially specializing in condiments such as mustards and pickled packed in jars, the company quickly expanded its offerings to include canned fruits, berries, , tomatoes, milk, , and later meat products like to meet growing demand from urban consumers, westward pioneers, and the Union Army during the Civil War. By 1836, Underwood transitioned from to cans lined with tin, a that helped popularize the term "can" and solidified its role as one of the nation's first successful operations. The company's breakthrough came in 1868 with the introduction of Deviled Ham, a spiced spread made from ground ham, mustard flour, turmeric, and other seasonings, marketed as "Deviled Entremets" for sandwiches and portable meals. This product gained widespread popularity for its convenience and flavor, leading to the registration of its distinctive devil logo trademark—No. 82—on November 29, 1870, with the U.S. Patent Office, making it the earliest food trademark still in active use. Underwood further advanced food preservation through a 1895 collaboration between William Lyman Underwood (grandson of the original William) and MIT biologist Samuel Cate Prescott, which improved safety and contributed to the establishment of as a professional field; the company also operated major and facilities in . These efforts not only supplied essential provisions during historical migrations and conflicts but also helped transform canned goods into everyday pantry staples across America.

Founding and Early Development

Establishment in Boston

The William Underwood Company was founded in 1822 in , , by William Underwood, an English immigrant who had arrived in the United States in 1817 after apprenticing in techniques at the London-based firm . Underwood had begun experimenting with in glass containers around 1820, establishing a small-scale operation that formalized into the company the following year to capitalize on growing demand for preserved goods. From its inception, the company operated out of a modest facility on Boston's Russia Wharf, initially packing fruits, berries such as and currants, vegetables, and preserves into hermetically sealed glass jars. These products were designed for durability and portability, reflecting Underwood's expertise in sealing methods learned abroad, and were distributed both domestically and to international markets including the East and . The early emphasized high-quality, affordable preserved foods tailored to the needs of working-class urban consumers in burgeoning East Coast cities and pioneers venturing westward amid the early 19th-century American expansion. By focusing on accessible pricing and reliable preservation, the company addressed the challenges of food scarcity for city dwellers and travelers, laying the groundwork for its growth before transitioning to metal in the 1830s.

Pioneering Canning Techniques

Following its establishment in 1822, the William Underwood Company initially preserved condiments, fruits, and pickles in jars, but by 1836, it transitioned to using cans lined with tin on the interior, becoming one of the first American firms to adopt this durable metal packaging for extended shelf-life foods. This shift addressed the limitations of , which was prone to breakage during shipping and whose local suppliers could not meet the growing demand for Underwood's products. Underwood overcame significant challenges in implementing metal canning, including sourcing tin-plated steel sheets, which were primarily imported from at the time, and scaling production to American volumes. Drawing from European techniques learned during William Underwood's apprenticeship at in —rooted in Nicolas Appert's original method of sterilization—the company adapted these processes for local materials and larger output, soldering seams by hand to seal cans airtight. Early hurdles included inconsistent sealing that risked spoilage, but iterative refinements ensured reliable preservation without . This innovation enabled the expansion of Underwood's product range beyond condiments to include canned meats, , and , such as early offerings of clams, , , oysters, and tomatoes, which were supplied to urban markets, westward expeditions, and international trade routes to and the . These durable cans facilitated safer transport of perishable goods, reducing reliance on salting or smoking. The adoption of metal canning propelled Underwood's growth, prompting factory expansions in during the mid-19th century and securing contracts, such as those with the Union Army during the Civil War, which boosted production and sales. By popularizing tin-lined cans, Underwood contributed to the broader U.S. industry's development, helping democratize access to preserved foods and establishing metal as a standard by the .

Product Line and Iconic Brands

Range of Canned Foods

The William Underwood Company initially focused on basic fruits and vegetables in the , beginning with items like damsons, quinces, currants, , peas, , and tomatoes, which were preserved in hermetically sealed jars before transitioning to tin cans. These early products addressed the for shelf-stable foods amid growing and westward expansion, positioning Underwood as a supplier of affordable provisions for working-class city dwellers and pioneers. By the mid-19th century, the company expanded into meats and to meet needs, notably supplying and other canned meats to Union troops during the Civil War from 1861 to 1865, alongside oysters canned since 1850, salmon since 1851, and lobsters from facilities starting in 1844. This diversification enabled national distribution in the late , with production scaling up through large canneries in Jonesport (1880) and Bass Harbor (1889), establishing Underwood as a key player in the emerging American canning industry. Into the , Underwood's portfolio evolved toward ready-to-eat spreads, including spread, spread, chicken spread, and , which complemented its flagship deviled ham as convenient options for quick meals. These products emphasized premium quality ingredients and consistent processing standards, differentiating Underwood from competitors by ensuring reliable shelf stability and flavor for urban consumers and . Post-acquisition influences in the mid-20th century introduced to the lineup, further broadening its appeal as versatile, affordable canned staples. In 1868, the sons of William Underwood, who had taken over the following their father's in 1859, developed the company's first canned deviled ham as a spread made from ground ham mixed with spices such as mustard, , and , drawing inspiration from traditional deviled meat recipes that emphasized bold, spicy flavors. This innovation built on the company's existing expertise in condiments and preserved meats, positioning deviled ham as a convenient, shelf-stable product for quick meals. The product's distinctive branding emerged shortly thereafter, with the William Underwood Company registering its iconic red devil logo—a mischievous, horned figure holding a —on November 29, 1870, with the U.S. Patent Office for "Deviled Entremets," a term denoting prepared meat spreads. This is recognized as the oldest continuously used food label in the United States, remaining largely unchanged and emblematic of the brand's enduring identity. Marketing efforts centered on the devil logo's playful yet memorable appeal, with early campaigns urging consumers to "Look for the little red devil" on cans to ensure authenticity and quality, a slogan that reinforced brand recognition amid growing competition in the canned goods market. The logo's prominent placement on the distinctive rectangular tins, often featuring the devil in a against a white background, helped deviled stand out on store shelves and became a visual shorthand for the product's spicy character. Deviled ham quickly gained cultural traction as a versatile pantry staple, prized for its ease in preparing sandwiches, party spreads, and traveler's provisions. Into the , it retained widespread appeal, appearing in literature like Barbara Kingsolver's as a of American domesticity and even inspiring collector communities around vintage logo memorabilia, underscoring its status as a nostalgic icon of preserved food innovation.

Scientific Research and Innovations

Partnership with MIT

In 1895, William Lyman Underwood, director of the William Underwood Company and grandson of its founder, approached the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) for assistance in resolving persistent spoilage issues affecting the company's canned products, particularly clams that were developing off-flavors and odors without visible swelling. This initiative marked the beginning of a pivotal collaboration, driven by Underwood's recognition that scientific expertise was essential to safeguard the company's operations, which had been grappling with such problems since its early days in the 1820s. The partnership centered on Underwood's work with Samuel Cate Prescott, an MIT instructor in biology and a specialist in bacteriology, who was recommended by MIT's head of biology, William Thompson Sedgwick. Together, from late 1895 through late 1896, they conducted intensive laboratory examinations of spoiled cans supplied by the company, focusing on microbial causes of the defects. Their experiments revealed that thermophilic bacteria, capable of forming heat-resistant spores, were responsible for "flat sour" spoilage—a non-gassy deterioration that acidified the contents without causing cans to bulge or explode. This discovery emerged after months of daily afternoon sessions in MIT's labs, where Prescott and Underwood dissected samples and tested bacterial survival under various conditions, ultimately identifying the spores' origins in the raw materials' environments. The research later expanded to other products including canned corn, peas, tomatoes, spinach, sardines, and lobster meat, with findings presented in 1898 to the Atlantic States Packers’ Association. The William Underwood Company played a crucial role by funding the research through provision of materials and facilities, while Underwood himself contributed hands-on expertise without compensation. Underwood continued his pursuits at MIT on an unpaid basis, dedicating the remainder of his career to advancing until his death in 1929. This collaboration not only resolved the company's immediate challenges but also laid foundational principles for modern , influencing broader industry practices in sterilization and preservation.

Advancements in Food Preservation

The collaboration between the William Underwood Company and MIT researchers in 1895 yielded significant advancements in science, particularly through the development of time- principles for sterilizing canned foods. These principles established that every point within a sealed can must reach a specific —typically 250°F—for a defined duration, such as 10 minutes, to eliminate heat-resistant bacterial spores responsible for spoilage without excessively overcooking the contents. This approach optimized by balancing microbial with product , preventing issues like swelling or off-flavors in canned goods. The Underwood-MIT research played a foundational role in establishing as a formal discipline, integrating , chemistry, and to create reliable preservation methods. Their findings directly informed U.S. Department of Agriculture guidelines on , which adopted time-temperature tolerances to ensure commercial sterility and safety in processed foods. By demonstrating the scientific basis for thermal processing, the work shifted from empirical practices to evidence-based standards, influencing regulatory frameworks throughout the early 20th century. For the William Underwood Company, these advancements translated into practical applications that enhanced production efficiency and product integrity. Optimized sterilization reduced spoilage rates in canned meats, improving for items like deviled ham under ambient conditions while maintaining texture and flavor. This allowed the company to scale operations reliably, minimizing waste and ensuring consistent quality for consumer markets. The legacy of these innovations extended globally, shaping into the mid-20th century through Prescott's subsequent publications, including his co-authored textbook , which detailed protocols and microbial control strategies. Their research not only elevated industry practices but also contributed to broader advancements in shelf-stable foods, influencing international standards for thermal processing and .

Expansion and Corporate Evolution

Mid-20th Century Growth

Following , the William Underwood Company experienced significant growth by transitioning its canning expertise—developed through historical military provisioning, including Civil War supplies of canned roast beef to the U.S. Navy that served as a forerunner to later rations like WWII K-rations—to civilian markets, capitalizing on the enduring popularity of its deviled ham product amid rising demand for convenient, shelf-stable foods during the postwar economic boom. The company's long-standing experience positioned it well to meet peacetime consumer needs for ready-to-eat spreads and seafood items. By the mid-1950s, Underwood had established robust national distribution networks, shipping its products across the to grocery chains and leveraging the deviled ham brand's iconic devil logo to appeal to families seeking quick meal solutions. To accommodate surging production demands, the company modernized its facilities and relocated from its original location at Russia Wharf to a larger, state-of-the-art plant in , a suburb designed for efficiency with ample natural light and hygienic conditions. This shift, completed by the late , enabled Underwood to increase output dramatically—from just five cans per hour in its early days to 150,000 cans daily by 1957—focusing on high-volume of deviled ham, sardines, and while maintaining quality standards in a " in the " setting. These upgrades supported a 60 percent sales increase since 1951, reaching an estimated $10 million in 1957, reflecting the company's adaptation to postwar industrial scales. Marketing strategies evolved in the to emphasize convenience and versatility, with national advertising campaigns in popular magazines like and promoting deviled ham as an ideal sandwich spread, picnic essential, and party appetizer tailored to busy homemakers and the era's suburban lifestyle trends. Underwood extended its product line to include variations like chicken and tongue spreads, alongside seafood offerings, aligning with consumer preferences for affordable, no-cook options that fit the rise of television dinners and casual entertaining. These efforts, often featuring playful imagery of the devil logo in family-oriented scenarios, helped solidify the brand's presence in households nationwide. Under the continued guidance of Underwood descendants and family-affiliated executives, the company preserved its private ownership structure through the mid-20th century, navigating industry consolidation by prioritizing independent innovation over mergers. Leadership transitioned smoothly, with George C. Seybolt appointed as the sixth president in after rising through the ranks since 1951, ensuring operational continuity while upholding the firm's 137-year legacy amid a consolidating sector. This family-driven approach fostered stability, culminating in preparatory expansions that paved the way for developments.

Acquisitions and Sale to PET

In the mid-1960s, the William Underwood Company pursued strategic acquisitions to diversify its product offerings and strengthen its position in the canned foods market. In 1965, it acquired the Burnham & Morrill () Company, a Portland, Maine-based producer established in 1867, which specialized in , canned clams, and tomatoes. This move complemented Underwood's existing canned and spreads, as B&M had previously sourced clams and tomatoes from Underwood, enabling synergies in supply chains and production. B&M continued to operate as an independent subsidiary under its current management. By the , B&M maintained a facility in Westwood, Massachusetts. Throughout the , Underwood continued to evolve its operations amid broader industry shifts toward modern packaging and expanded capacity. Facility expansions during this period, including upgrades at plants in , supported increased production volumes for both legacy products like deviled ham and newly acquired lines such as . These developments positioned Underwood as a more robust player in the competitive specialty foods sector, building on its mid-century growth in international distribution. By the early 1980s, after 160 years of family ownership since its founding in 1822, the William Underwood Company underwent a significant transition when it was sold to for $150 million in 1982. This sale, executed through PET's parent company IC Industries, marked the end of Underwood family control and integrated key brands including and Accent seasoning—acquired by Underwood in 1971—into PET's broader portfolio of dairy, pet foods, and packaged goods. Immediately following the acquisition, production of Underwood's core products continued uninterrupted under PET's management, with facilities like the Westwood plant maintaining operations to ensure brand continuity. The brands, including Underwood deviled ham and , were preserved and marketed within PET's distribution network. PET itself was acquired by in 1985 and later by Pillsbury in 1995, before the Underwood brands were sold to in 1999, where they remain part of the portfolio as of 2025.

References

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