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Broad Peak, 12th highest in the world

Key Information

Gasherbrum II, 13th highest in the world
Gasherbrum Group with Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum V, and Gasherbrum VI
Satellite image of the Gasherbrum massif

Gasherbrum (Urdu: گاشر برم) is a remote group of peaks situated at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram mountain range.[dubious – discuss] The peaks are located within the border region of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. The massif contains three of the world's 8,000 metre peaks (if Broad Peak is included). The highly visible face of Gasherbrum IV has gained the nickname the "Shining Wall" and this has often been claimed as the meaning of the word "Gasherbrum". [1] However the name Gasherbrum comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain".[2]

Geography

[edit]

The Gasherbrum range forms the continental divide of southern Asia; drainage to the north and east flows into the Tarim Basin, drainage to the south and west flows into the Arabian Sea.

Peak Elevation Prominence (m) Latitude (N) Longitude (E)
Gasherbrum I 8,080 metres (26,509 ft) 2,155 35°43′27″ 76°41′48″
Broad Peak 8,047 metres (26,401 ft) 1,701 35°48′35″ 76°34′06″
Gasherbrum II 8,035 metres (26,362 ft) 1,523 35°45′27″ 76°39′15″
Gasherbrum III 7,952 metres (26,089 ft) 355 35°45′34″ 76°38′31″
Gasherbrum IV 7,925 metres (26,001 ft) 725 35°45′39″ 76°37′00″
Gasherbrum V 7,147 metres (23,448 ft) 654 35°43′45″ 76°36′48″
Gasherbrum VI 6,979 metres (22,897 ft) 520 35°42′30″ 76°37′54″
Gasherbrum VII 6,955 metres (22,818 ft) 165 39°44'19" 76°36'0"
Gasherbrum Twins 6,912 metres (22,677 ft) and
6,877 metres (22,562 ft)		 162 35°34'13" 76°35'36"

History

[edit]

In 1856, Thomas George Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant and a member of the Great Trigonometric Survey of India, sighted a group of high peaks in the Karakoram from more than 200 km away. He named five of these peaks K1, K2, K3, K4 and K5, where the "K" denotes Karakoram. Today, K1 is known as Masherbrum, K3 as Gasherbrum IV, K4 as Gasherbrum II and K5 as Gasherbrum I. Only K2, the second highest mountain in the world, has retained Montgomerie's name. Broad Peak was thought to miss out on a K-number as it was hidden from Montgomerie's view by Masherbrum.

Climbing history

[edit]
Mountain altitude first ascent first winter ascent
Gasherbrum I 8068 m 1958 by Pete Schoening and A. J. Kauffman (USA) 2012 by Adam Bielecki, Janusz Gołąb [pl] (Poland)[3]
Broad Peak (if included in group) 8047 m 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl (Austria) 2013 by Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, Maciej Berbeka, Tomasz Kowalski [pl] (Poland)
Gasherbrum II 8035 m 1956 by Fritz Moravec, S. Larch, H. Willenpart (Austria) 2011 by Simone Moro (Italy), Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan), Cory Richards (United States)
Gasherbrum III 7952 m 1975 by Wanda Rutkiewicz, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Janusz Onyszkiewicz and Krzysztof Zdzitowiecki [pl] (Poland) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum IV 7925 m 1958 by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri (Italy) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum V 7147 m 2014 by S. Nakjong and A. Chi Young (Korea) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum VI 7001 m Unclimbed, attempted 1998 by a French group (two dead) and a Danish group (Bo Belvedere Christensen, Mads Granlien and Jan Mathorne reaching 6200 m) Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum VII 6755 m 2019 by Cala Cimenti (Italy)[4] Unclimbed in winter
Gasherbrum Twins Unclimbed Unclimbed in winter

See also

[edit]

Sources

[edit]
  • Mount Qogori (K2) {scale 1:100,000}; edited and mapped by Mi Desheng (Lanzhou Institute of Glaciology and Geocryology), the Xi´an Cartographic Publishing House.
  • Dreams of Tibet: the pundits

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Gasherbrum

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Gasherbrum is a remote in the range of the Himalaya, situated on the border between and approximately 10 km southeast of , and consisting of four prominent peaks that form a horseshoe-shaped ridge encircling the South Gasherbrum Glacier, which flows into the 62-km-long . The name "Gasherbrum" originates from the , combining rgasha (meaning "beautiful") and brum (meaning "mountain"), thus translating to "beautiful mountain." The massif's highest peaks include Gasherbrum I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5), which stands at 8,080 m (26,510 ft) and ranks as the 11th-highest mountain on , and Gasherbrum II (K4), which rises to 8,034 m (26,358 ft) and is the 13th-highest; the other two major summits, Gasherbrum III (7,952 m) and Gasherbrum IV (7,925 m), are also formidable but fall short of status. was first ascended on July 5, 1958, by and Andy Kauffman of an American expedition led by Nicholas Clinch via the southwest ridge, while achieved its first ascent on July 2, 1956, by an Austrian team using the south face and southwest ridge. These peaks are celebrated for their dramatic spires and technical challenges, with noted for its relatively lower fatality rate compared to , though both demand expertise due to falls, crevasses, and high-altitude conditions in one of the world's most glaciated regions. Recent expeditions, such as the first winter ascent of in 2023, highlight ongoing challenges from changing climate conditions.

Geography

Location and Setting

The Gasherbrum massif is situated in the central Range of the greater Himalaya-Karakoram system, at the northeastern terminus of the . This extensive icefield, measuring approximately 63 kilometers in length, originates from the upper reaches of the Braldu River valley and flows northeastward through a deeply incised trough flanked by towering spires and snow-covered slopes. The massif straddles the international border between in northern Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in , with its central area positioned at roughly 35°43′N 76°42′E. Hydrologically, the Gasherbrum peaks form a critical in the , separating drainage basins that flow in opposing directions. Glaciers on the northern and eastern flanks, such as the Urdok Glacier with its 62-square-kilometer expanse, feed into the , a tributary of the that ultimately discharges into the endorheic in the . In contrast, the southern and western slopes drain via the into the Braldu River, contributing meltwater to the system and, downstream, to the . This bifurcation underscores the massif's role in partitioning across Central and . The Gasherbrum massif lies in close proximity to other prominent summits, including approximately 10 kilometers to the west and immediately adjacent to its southwestern flank, forming a compact cluster of ultra-high peaks along the Pakistan-China border ridge. This strategic position amplifies the region's extreme topography, with the massif's horseshoe-shaped alignment enclosing vast glacial basins. Access to the area is severely constrained by its remoteness, necessitating a multi-day approach from the village of in the upper , followed by an arduous 80- to 90-kilometer trek along the debris-mantled to reach the base camps near Concordia junction.

Peaks and Physical Features

The Gasherbrum massif comprises a cluster of high peaks in the Range, featuring several of the world's most prominent summits above 7,000 meters, characterized by steep rock and ice faces, extensive glacial coverage, and rugged topography shaped by tectonic forces. The primary peaks include , rising to 8,080 meters and ranking as the 11th highest mountain globally, with a of 2,155 meters that underscores its independent status as an . Adjacent to it, reaches 8,034 meters, the 13th highest worldwide, with a prominence of 1,524 meters, its broad, ice-clad pyramid dominating the northern section of the massif's horseshoe-shaped ridge. Further south, stands at 7,952 meters, notable for its nature with a prominence of approximately 461 meters, forming a sharp, glacier-flanked ridge that blends into the surrounding high-altitude terrain. , at 7,925 meters, is renowned for its dramatic west face, known as the "Shining Wall," a 2,500-meter-high expanse of steep and mixed rock- terrain that catches the setting sun's rays, creating a luminous effect amid otherwise shadowed glaciers. Lower but still formidable, Gasherbrum V tops out at 7,147 meters with a prominence of about 305 meters, its serrated ridges covered in perpetual snow and feeding into the South Gasherbrum Glacier. Gasherbrum VI, at 6,979 meters and with 530 meters of prominence, presents an unclimbed, pyramidal form enveloped in , while Gasherbrum VII, reaching 6,955 meters with minimal 163 meters of prominence, serves as a minor in the eastern flank. Geologically, the Gasherbrum peaks form part of the batholith, a vast intrusive complex dominated by , , and formations resulting from the Miocene-era collision between the Indian and Eurasian plates, which uplifted the region and exposed metamorphic and plutonic rocks through extensive erosion. These rocks, including and augen gneiss, underpin the massif's steep faces and glacial valleys, with the Baltoro Granite unit particularly influencing the southern approaches. The summits are largely ice-covered, sustaining massive glaciers like the Baltoro and South Gasherbrum, which carve deep cirques and moraines, contributing to the area's dynamic landscape of avalanches and seracs. Broad Peak, at 8,051 meters, is occasionally included in broader definitions of the Gasherbrum group due to its proximity along the same system, though it is typically classified separately as the 12th highest peak worldwide with 1,701 meters of prominence.
PeakElevation (m)Prominence (m)Notable Features
8,0802,155Broad, snow-covered summit;
8,0341,524Ice-clad pyramid; part of horseshoe
7,952461Sharp, glacier-flanked ; subsidiary status
7,925718"Shining Wall" west face; steep and
Gasherbrum V7,147305Serrated, snow-covered ridges
Gasherbrum VI6,979530Unclimbed pyramidal form; ice-enveloped
Gasherbrum VII6,955163Minor eastern ; low prominence

History

Etymology and Naming

The name "Gasherbrum" originates from the spoken in the region, combining "rgasha," meaning "beautiful," with "brum," meaning "mountain," to denote "beautiful mountain." This etymology reflects the local linguistic heritage rather than the sometimes-misattributed interpretation of "Shining Wall," which stems from an early mistranslation. In 1856, during the Great Trigonometric Survey of India, British surveyor Thomas George Montgomerie first identified and named the Gasherbrum massif after observing it from a distance of over 200 kilometers while stationed on Mount Haramukh. Montgomerie's work was part of a broader effort to map the remote northern frontiers of British India, cataloging high peaks in the range for scientific and strategic purposes. Montgomerie assigned provisional designations to the peaks using "K" for followed by numbers, resulting in K1 through K5 for the prominent summits he sighted; these were later refined as (K1), (K3), (K4), and (K5), with only K2 retaining its numerical label uniquely due to its distinct prominence. In 1892, British explorer William Martin Conway adopted the local Balti name "Gasherbrum" for the entire massif while exploring the region. , in particular, acquired the alternative English name "Hidden Peak" in 1892 from explorer William Martin Conway, who highlighted its extreme remoteness and inaccessibility from major passes.

Early Exploration and Surveys

The Gasherbrum massif was first identified during the Great Trigonometric Survey of India in the 1850s, when British surveyor Thomas George Montgomerie observed the distant peaks of the range from Mount Haramukh in , approximately 220 kilometers away. Using a for remote , Montgomerie cataloged several prominent summits, designating peaks in the area including the Gasherbrum massif as K4 () and K5 () in the nascent K-number system for Karakoram features, with the nearby as K3, though accurate heights and details remained elusive due to the extreme distance and terrain. This survey marked the initial scientific recognition of the massif, contributing to broader mapping efforts amid Britain's imperial interests in . In the late 19th century, British expeditions began probing closer to the , though direct access to the Gasherbrum area was limited. Henry Strachey, during his 1847-1848 explorations in and the Nubra Valley, documented northern approaches to the range, including the and passes leading toward the Shaksgam Valley, providing early reports on the region's glaciated topography and high-altitude barriers. Complementing this, Captain William John Gill's 1874 journey traversed parts of the Shaksgam Valley en route from Yarkand to , offering valuable sketches and notes on the northern valleys that bordered the Gasherbrum massif, despite the expedition's primary focus on Central Asian routes. These efforts relied heavily on local Balti guides, whose oral traditions described the beautiful mountains (Gasherbrum in Balti) as formidable and sacred features visible from afar, embedding the peaks in regional as divine sentinels of the upper Indus watershed. Political restrictions severely hampered closer surveys until the early , as the lay in a contested frontier zone amid the Anglo-Russian "," with British access controlled through Kashmir's and Chinese claims to the north. Expeditions required diplomatic permissions, often prioritizing strategic intelligence over pure science, which delayed on-site observations of Gasherbrum. A key came in with a geographical expedition that traversed the and viewed the southern flanks of the Gasherbrum group from afar, confirming the massif's isolation and the challenges of approach via the Hispar and Biafo systems. These pre-climbing surveys laid essential groundwork, highlighting the peaks' remote grandeur while underscoring the logistical and geopolitical obstacles that persisted until the 1930s.

Climbing History

First Ascents

The first ascent of (8,035 m), the 13th-highest mountain in the world, was achieved on July 7, 1956, by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec, with climbers Fritz Moravec, Sepp Larch, and Hans Willenpart reaching the summit via the Southwest Ridge. The route involved establishing camps on the South Gasherbrum Glacier, navigating an , and ascending a steep neve slope and rock buttress to the summit pyramid, marking the second 8,000 m peak to be climbed after Kanchenjunga. Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), also known as Hidden Peak, saw its on , 1958, by American climbers and Andy Kauffman during an expedition led by Nicholas Clinch. They followed the Southwest Ridge (also referred to as the southeast ridge or Roch ) from the South Gasherbrum Glacier, establishing multiple camps up to 23,500 ft before a final push through mixed terrain to the summit at 26,470 ft, making it the highest peak first ascended by Americans at the time. The first ascent of (7,925 m) occurred on August 6, 1958, by Italian climbers and Carlo Mauri as part of a team led by Riccardo Cassin. They climbed the Northeast Ridge from Camp VI at 24,750 ft, tackling five rotten rock towers with class 4 and 5 difficulties, amid an all-night snowstorm that forced a bivouac at high altitude; Bonatti's endurance during the hazardous descent highlighted the expedition's technical prowess on this technically demanding peak. The Southwest Face, known as the "Shining Wall" for its steep granite expanse, remained unclimbed at the time and has since posed significant challenges, with early attempts underscoring its avalanche-prone and exposed nature. Gasherbrum III (7,952 m), previously the highest unclimbed independent peak, was first summited on August 11, 1975, by a Polish-American expedition featuring , , Janusz Onyszkiewicz, and Krzysztof Zdzitowiecki. The team ascended the East Face via a central , overcoming a vertical rock step, steep snow gullies, and more than 100 m of fixed ropes in mixed conditions to reach the summit ridge, notable as the first 7,000 m peak climbed by an international women's team. Gasherbrum V (7,147 m) received its first confirmed ascent on July 25, 2014, by South Korean climbers Nak-jong and Ahn Chi-young, who climbed alpine-style up the South Face in three days, covering approximately 1,900 m of WI4/5 M4 terrain amid avalanches and a 70-degree ice wall. In contrast, Gasherbrum VI (7,004 m) remains unclimbed as of 2025, with only a handful of attempts, including via the Northeast Face in 2009 and the Southwest Ridge in prior years, all thwarted by extreme risk, , and steep mixed terrain.

Notable Expeditions and Records

The first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II was accomplished on February 2, 2011, by an international team consisting of from , from , and Cory Richards from the , who climbed the normal Southwest Ridge route without supplemental oxygen in extreme conditions, including temperatures as low as -40°C and high winds. This achievement marked the first winter summit of any peak in the Gasherbrum massif and was the ninth overall winter ascent of an 8,000-meter peak, highlighting the technical challenges of winter in the . The team fixed ropes up to 6,800 meters and made the final push from Advanced Base Camp in a 36-hour weather window, with Richards capturing the expedition in the documentary . Gasherbrum I saw its first winter ascent on March 9, 2012, by Polish climbers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb, who followed the Japanese Buttress route on the South Face, reaching the summit at 8:30 a.m. after establishing three camps and enduring high winds and risks during a multi-week effort led by Artur Hajzer. This success completed the winter ascents of all Gasherbrum peaks over 7,900 meters at the time and was the tenth winter 8,000er overall, demonstrating Polish dominance in high-altitude winter . The pair descended cautiously, avoiding fixed ropes where possible to minimize hazards, though the expedition faced drama when a separate team was caught in bad weather nearby. Notable traverses include the 1984 crossing of to by and , who completed the link-up in alpine style without returning to base camp, covering approximately 10 kilometers of technical terrain in under 48 hours and establishing a benchmark for rapid high-altitude traverses in the massif. Speed records on were set by in 2001, who soloed from Camp II at 6,500 meters to the summit in 7 hours and 30 minutes via the normal route, showcasing exceptional acclimatization and endurance without oxygen. Women's milestones began with the first female ascents of in 1976 by Polish climbers Halina Kruger-Syrokomska and Anna Okopińska, who repeated the original Austrian route as part of a larger Polish expedition. added to this legacy with her 1989 ascent of alongside a British women's team, marking her fifth 8,000er and advancing gender equity in Himalayan climbing. Tragedies underscore the risks, such as the 2018 death of Italian climber Maurizio Giordano on , who was struck by falling ice at 6,400 meters during an attempt on the Northeast Ridge with the Aosta Military Expedition, highlighting hazards on the peak's technical faces. Efforts on unclimbed summits include repeated attempts on Gasherbrum VI (7,000 meters), such as the 1997 Korean team's push on the West Face that reached high on the route but turned back due to weather, and the 2011 French attempt on Gasherbrum V's South Ridge, which advanced to 6,500 meters before objective dangers forced retreat.

Recent Developments

The significantly delayed expeditions in the region, including those targeting Gasherbrum peaks, as border closures and health restrictions disrupted planning and logistics from 2021 to 2022, similar to broader Himalayan impacts. By 2023, expeditions resumed with multiple summits on during the summer season, though winter attempts, such as a Korean team's effort on , ended in failure due to extreme conditions. In 2024, environmental studies highlighted accelerating glacial retreat in the , with warmer temperatures and reduced snowfall altering ice features on routes like those on Gasherbrum peaks, increasing risks and complicating access. The 2025 climbing season on saw notable success on July 20, when Macedonian climber Sashko Kedev reached the summit, becoming the first from his country to complete all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks. This ascent, part of an Imagine expedition, marked a personal milestone for Kedev after years of effort delayed by the . In 2024, Slovenian Aleš Česen and British Tom Livingstone established the of the west ridge on (7,952 m), a nearly 3,000-meter route named Edge of Entropy completed from July 31 to August 4, which traversed the peak and was awarded the Piolet d'Or in October for its technical commitment and exploration. However, attempts on faltered due to persistent adverse weather, including high winds and heavy snowfall; for instance, Mingma G's Imagine team abandoned their push after reaching advanced camps, declaring the peak unclimbed for the season. Ongoing challenges in the region include the , which have led to drier, hotter conditions on Gasherbrum routes, exposing more rock and heightening and dangers, as observed in the 2025 Karakoram season. Permit processes for expeditions near the Pakistan-China border remain complex, requiring coordination with Pakistani authorities amid geopolitical sensitivities, though no major disruptions were reported in 2025. As of late 2025, Gasherbrum VI remains unclimbed, with no successful ascents documented despite occasional attempts on its formidable faces and ridges.

References

  1. https://www.earthobservatory.nasa.gov/features/8000MeterPeaks
  2. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197505200/Balti-Place-Names-in-the-Karakoram
  3. https://explorersweb.com/gasherbrum-ii-first-winter-ascent/
  4. https://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/p1386f/pdf/F4_Pakistan.pdf
  5. https://www.eorc.jaxa.jp/en/earthview/2006/tp060105.html
  6. https://www.summitpost.org/gasherbrum-ii/153264
  7. https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/features/8000MeterPeaks
  8. https://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10527
  9. https://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10525
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  11. https://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10523
  12. https://explorersweb.com/top-expeditions-1970-2020-6-gasherbrum-ivs-shining-wall/
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  20. https://www.worlddata.info/highest-mountains.php
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  23. https://explorersweb.com/where-did-the-name-k2-come-from/
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  27. https://archive.org/download/abodeofsnowhisto00maso/abodeofsnowhisto00maso.pdf
  28. https://www.harishkapadia.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/1996-Eastern-Karakoram-A-Historical-Review.pdf
  29. https://archive.org/stream/amemoironindian00markgoog/amemoironindian00markgoog_djvu.txt
  30. https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/48/17/karakoram-the-exploration-period/
  31. https://www.cambridge.org/core/books/frontier-complex/transfrontier-men/D5EC2EDDF1618439C82AEAE9D6A9CA7E
  32. https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/3/2/the-netherlands-karakoram-expedition-1929/
  33. https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/20/3/austrian-karakoram-expedition-1956/
  34. https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/21/5/the-ascent-of-gasherbrum-i/
  35. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195932900/Himalaya-Pakistan-Gasherbrum-IV
  36. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197703600
  37. https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/34/18/polish-ascents-of-gasherbrum-ii-and-iii-1975/
  38. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212941/Gasherbrum-VI-Northeast-Face-Attempt
  39. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201127202
  40. https://www.climbing.com/news/first-winter-ascent-of-gasherbrum-ii/
  41. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212934
  42. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212933
  43. https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/08/why-the-mountaineering-world-cant-stop-talking-about-denis-urubko/
  44. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197654000/Asia-Pakistan-Gasherbrum-II-and-III
  45. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199334000/Wanda-Rutkiewicz-1943-1992
  46. https://snowbrains.com/climber-killed-ice-gasherbrum/
  47. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199804400/The-West-Face-of-Gasherbrum-IV
  48. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212515/Gasherbrum-V-7147m-south-ridge-attempt
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