Hubbry Logo
Mandarin collarMandarin collarMain
Open search
Mandarin collar
Community hub
Mandarin collar
logo
8 pages, 0 posts
0 subscribers
Be the first to start a discussion here.
Be the first to start a discussion here.
Mandarin collar
Mandarin collar
Mandarin collar
View on Wikipedia
from Wikipedia
A Chinese man, Ye Jinglu, is photographed wearing a traditional Mandarin collar shirt in the early 1900s.

A mandarin collar, standing collar, Nehru collar, band collar or choker collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. The style derives its Western name from the mandarin bureaucrats in Qing-era China that employed it as part of their uniform.

The length along a mandarin collar is straight, with either straight or rounded edges at top of the centre front. The edges of the collar either barely meet at the centre front or overlap slightly.[1] Overlapping mandarin collars are often a continuation of a shirt's placket and have a button on the collar to secure the two sides of the shirt together.

History

[edit]

China

[edit]

In China, the use of the high collar on minority ethnic jackets is typically a Han Chinese influence.[2] The use of high collar in clothing started in the late Ming dynasty and it continued to be worn in the Qing dynasty.[3]

In the Ming dynasty, the standup collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver,[4] called zimukou (Chinese: 子母扣).[5] The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted the emergence and the popularity of the standup collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use of Chinese knot buckles.[4] In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the standup collar with gold and silver interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China).[4]

In the Qing dynasty, the use of high collar in clothing was however not a common feature in clothing before the 20th century.[3] During the late Qing dynasty, the stand-up collar was integrated into the clothing of both the Han and the Manchu.[3] The standing collar became a defining characteristics of the long jacket worn with a long skirt (aoqun) or worn with trousers (shanku) for the Han women and it continued to remain so in the Republic of China.[3] The standing collar somehow became one of the defining characteristics of Chinese dress.[3]

  • Painting of a noble woman wearing a red chang ao (a type of long jacket) with standing collar, Ming dynasty.
    Painting of a noble woman wearing a red chang ao (a type of long jacket) with standing collar, Ming dynasty.
  • Painting of Empress Xiaojiesu wearing a standing collar garment (in white), Ming dynasty.
    Painting of Empress Xiaojiesu wearing a standing collar garment (in white), Ming dynasty.
  • A woman, Ming dynasty
    A woman, Ming dynasty
  • Painting of attendant wearing a standing collar folded over jiaoling.
    Painting of attendant wearing a standing collar folded over jiaoling.
  • Green brocade ru-jacket, Ming dynasty.
    Green brocade ru-jacket, Ming dynasty.
  • Chinese woman, Qing dynasty painting
    Chinese woman, Qing dynasty painting
  • Ayusi, an officer of the Qing Army, late 1700s.
    Ayusi, an officer of the Qing Army, late 1700s.
  • Mandarin collar which closes with pankou, 19th century.
    Mandarin collar which closes with pankou, 19th century.


[edit]
Jawaharlal Nehru in a achkan or sherwani, a garment which served as a model for the Nehru jacket with mandarin collar

A similar style known as the Raj pattern or Nehru collar is also found in some modern Indian men's clothing, such as the Nehru jacket. (Named for Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India 1947–1964, who commonly wore clothing with this type of collar.)

A band is often a mandarin collar. This term is also used for shirts that have only a flat finishing around the neckline; originally such garments were designed for use with a detachable collar, a largely forgotten usage.

Usage

[edit]

In contemporary Western dress, mandarin collars are found in Asian-style and minimalist clothing. Women's mandarin-collared jackets often include other vaguely Asian elements, such as pankou (silk knots) as closures instead of buttons.

Since mandarin collars are short and do not fold over, neckties are not worn with mandarin-collared dress shirts, apart from bow ties. This lack of ties may have led to the recent rising popularity of mandarin collars.[6]

A US soldier wearing an Army Combat Uniform with a mandarin collar.
The collar as seen in sport fencing dress.

Standing collars are common on military full dress uniforms, such as those of the British Army, US Navy and US Marine Corps. Mandarin collars are also utilized in combat uniforms, such as the US Army's Army Combat Uniform. The presence of the mandarin collar on the ACU makes the wearing of body armor more comfortable by lifting the collar up to prevent chafing. The Russian Army uses a mandarin collar in their newer VKBO uniforms.

Mandarin collars are also the proper shape for a single-breasted Greek cassock, or anterri, for Eastern Orthodox and Eastern Catholic clergy. Russians and other Slavic Churches typically have a high, band-style collar, buttoning to the side or on the shoulder, while Greeks have the "notched" Mandarin pattern with a closing loop or hook at the bottom of the "V" in the collar.

The collar is also used for the required sport fencing dress.

Police wicking shirts worn by police forces in the UK have a mandarin collar.[7][citation needed]

In pop culture

[edit]

Mandarin collars feature in costumes in some notable films, where they are employed either as a futuristic style fashion or to create a distinctive appearance for sinister characters. The title character in the 1962 James Bond film Dr. No, as well as Bond's nemesis, Ernst Stavro Blofeld, both parodied by Doctor Evil in the Austin Powers series of films are depicted wearing mandarin collared shirts. The mandarin collar can also be found in the uniforms of both the Galactic Empire in the Star Wars films, and the Federation in Star Trek: The Next Generation. Mandarin collar lab coats and a jacket also feature in the CBBC show The Demon Headmaster when the antagonist known as 'The Demon Headmaster' takes on the roles of 'Computer Director' (Series 1 Episodes 4-6), 'Director of the Biogenetic Research Centre' (BRC) (Series 2) and the 'Controller' (Series 3)

The science fiction series Doctor Who featured mandarin collars. One was on a black lab tunic worn by Davros, the forger of the Daleks. One was on shirts worn by the Master in his first and sixth incarnations. And one was on a kente shirt worn by the Doctor in her fugitive incarnation.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Mandarin collar

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
The Mandarin collar, also known as the Chinese collar, Mao collar, or stand-up collar, is a distinctive style characterized by a short, narrow, unfolded band of fabric that encircles the neck upright without points, tabs, or stiffening, often secured with a small or at the center. This minimalist design provides a clean, elegant and is commonly featured on garments such as shirts, dresses, jackets, and suits, adapting well to both formal and casual attire due to its versatility and lack of protruding elements. The collar's origins trace back to traditional Chinese attire, with standing collars emerging as early as the (1368–1644) in women's robes as a practical evolution from crossed-collar styles, but the specific form associated with the "Mandarin" name developed during the subsequent (1644–1912). During the Qing era, under Manchu rule, the collar became a hallmark of the (long robes for men) and (later adapted for women), worn prominently by imperial officials known as mandarins—high-ranking bureaucrats whose attire symbolized authority, Confucian values, and social hierarchy. The term "Mandarin" derives from the Portuguese adaptation of the word mantrin, meaning "counselor" or "minister," reflecting these wearers' roles in the imperial court. By the late Qing and into the Republican era, the collar was standardized in its modern form through the Zhongshan suit, a garment promoted by that influenced its enduring style. In the early , the Mandarin collar transitioned to Western through Orientalist influences, with French designer pioneering its integration into European couture around 1910 as part of his exotic, kimono-inspired collections that rejected corseted silhouettes. It gained further traction post-World War II, notably in the 1960s via the —named after Indian , who wore similar band-collared achkans—popularized globally by during their Indian influences and the mod and hippie movements. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent and later reinterpreted it in high , while its practical utility led to adoption in military uniforms, such as U.S. Army combat shirts to prevent neck chafing. Today, the Mandarin collar remains a timeless element in global menswear and womenswear, appearing in tailored suits, casual button-downs, and evening gowns, often paired with slim , chinos, or dresses for a sophisticated, aesthetic that blends Eastern heritage with modern . Its enduring appeal lies in its simplicity and adaptability, making it suitable for warm-weather fabrics like or blends, and it continues to evoke elegance without the formality of traditional collared shirts.

Design Features

Structure and Construction

The mandarin collar is a short, unfolded stand-up collar that rises vertically from the garment's without any fold-over, typically measuring 1 to 2 inches in height. It is designed to sit close to the neck, fastening at the front via buttons in shirt applications or hooks in structured pieces to secure the overlapping ends. In , the collar is cut as a single continuous band matching the circumference, often drafted as a with curved edges at the front for a smooth fit around the neck. To maintain its upright shape, it is typically stiffened with fusible applied to the wrong side of one layer, preventing collapse while allowing the collar to hug the neck symmetrically. Common materials include or cotton blends for everyday shirts, for lighter garments, and wool blends for tailored jackets, selected to balance rigidity with wearer comfort. Sewing techniques involve attaching the interfaced collar stand to the seam allowance with a 3/8-inch stitch, followed by folding and topstitching the outer edge of the non-interfaced layer to enclose raw edges and ensure even height throughout for visual symmetry.

Variations and Styles

The mandarin collar exhibits variations in height to suit different aesthetic and functional needs. The standard height is typically 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 centimeters), providing a balanced, upright stand that frames the neck without overwhelming the garment. Taller versions, reaching up to 2.5 inches (6.5 centimeters) or more, are employed in for a more dramatic, elongating effect that enhances the wearer's and adds visual . Embellishment styles further diversify the mandarin collar's appearance. Plain, unadorned collars emphasize and versatility, integrating seamlessly into modern casual or business attire. In contrast, embroidered or beaded designs elevate the collar for ceremonial or evening ensembles, often featuring intricate patterns like floral motifs or metallic accents to draw attention to the . Notched variations, with a small V-shaped cut at the front, are common in suit jackets, offering a subtle break in the continuous band for improved comfort and a tailored look. Functional adaptations expand the collar's practicality. Convertible mandarin collars, which can be worn standing upright or folded down, provide flexibility for transitional weather or varying formality levels, allowing the garment to shift from structured to relaxed. In casual outerwear, such as jackets or vests, the collar is sometimes integrated with hoods, creating a cohesive that maintains coverage when the hood is deployed while preserving the signature upright profile. Regional tweaks highlight subtle design differences. East Asian iterations often incorporate slightly curved edges to follow the natural contour of the neck, enhancing elegance in traditional garments like the . Western adaptations, however, favor straighter cuts for a more angular, modern precision that aligns with contemporary suiting.

Historical Development

Origins in China

The mandarin collar, known in Chinese as liling (立领) or standing collar, first emerged as a structured design element in the mid-to-late Ming dynasty (1368–1644), marking a significant innovation in traditional Chinese clothing that had not appeared in earlier dynasties. Prior to this period, Han Chinese garments typically featured cross-collars or round collars on robes, but colder climatic conditions during the Ming-Qing Little Ice Age (approximately 1570–1730) prompted the development of protective, upright collars for warmth, evolving from earlier crossover neckline guards combined with buttons. By the Wanli era (1573–1620), these collars had matured into a staple for women's jackets and robes, often paired with wide sleeves, tight cuffs, and pleated skirts, reflecting both practical needs and aesthetic preferences for metal fastenings like gold or gem-inlaid buttons. During the (1644–1912), the standing collar became more formalized and widespread, particularly in the attire of Manchu officials, or mandarins, who adopted it as part of their official uniforms to symbolize authority and ethnic identity. In garments like the (long robe) and magu (jacket), the collar took on a distinctive curved, high-standing form often termed yuanbaoling (元宝领), or " collar," due to its resemblance to traditional Chinese gold and silver , providing both thermal protection and a rigid, status-denoting structure that could extend upward to frame the face. This style blended Manchu equestrian practicality—such as horse-hoof cuffs—with Han influences, persisting in women's (Manchu-Han hybrid robes) and becoming a norm for across social classes by the late 19th century. In the Republican era (1912–1949), the mandarin collar underwent simplification and modernization, most notably in the Zhongshan suit (中山装), a hybrid garment inspired by Sun Yat-sen's vision for national dress that combined Western tailoring with traditional elements. The suit's upright, buttoned collar retained the Qing-era standing form but was streamlined for everyday and official use, officially mandated as standard attire for civil servants by the national government in 1929 to promote a unified Chinese identity amid rapid . This adaptation influenced subsequent styles like the tangzhuang (唐装), bridging imperial traditions with contemporary republican ideals.

Spread to Western Fashion

The mandarin collar entered Western fashion primarily through cultural exchanges facilitated by and in the late 19th century, with Orientalist influences from East Asian imports and expositions like the introducing Chinese motifs to European designers. This laid the groundwork for its reinterpretation as the "Chinese collar" in early 20th-century evening wear and formal attire, marking an initial fusion of Eastern simplicity with Western tailoring in garments for elite social events. In the early 20th century, French designer significantly popularized the mandarin collar during the and , incorporating it into avant-garde collections inspired by Asian aesthetics amid the broader trend. Poiret's designs, such as his ca. 1920 suit in wool, fur, and with a standing "chin chin" collar referencing Chinese styles, blended symmetrical Western patterns with Chinese elements for evening and daywear. His innovations, showcased in fashion journals like Fémina, elevated the collar from novelty to couture staple, influencing Parisian houses and exporting the style to American markets. The saw further integration through Hollywood films, where Chinese-inspired attire with mandarin collars appeared in silent cinema and early talkies, amplifying global fascination with Eastern motifs. Actresses in productions like those featuring donned modified qipao-style dresses with high stand collars, translating the look into glamorous red-carpet variants and influencing lines by designers adapting it for flapper-era silhouettes. This cinematic exposure helped normalize the collar in Western wardrobes, from bias-cut gowns to tailored jackets. Post-World War II propelled the mandarin collar into military uniforms and corporate fashion, symbolizing streamlined . , it was adopted in combat uniforms, such as the Army's (ACU) introduced in 2005 with a stand-up collar to prevent chafing during operations, drawing from wartime exposures to Asian influences and emphasizing clean lines over ornate details. By the , the collar resurfaced in power suits, particularly women's tailored blazers with padded shoulders, where designers like Albert Nipon incorporated it for an authoritative yet unconventional edge in boardroom attire. The mod revival intertwined the mandarin collar with via Nehru jackets, an Indian-influenced style with overlapping mandarin-like bands that gained traction through British and American icons. , wearing hip-length Nehru jackets with upright collars during their 1965 U.S. tour and performance, propelled the look into mainstream Western fashion, blending Eastern minimalism with mod tailoring for casual and semi-formal wear. This crossover, echoed in films and music scenes, democratized the collar beyond high fashion. A notable resurgence occurred in the minimalist fashion wave, led by , who featured mandarin collars in sleek overcoats and suiting for his collections, emphasizing neutral palettes and architectural simplicity. Pieces like the Y2K-era mandarin-neck wool overcoat, with its stand collar and asymmetric detailing, exemplified Klein's deconstructed approach, influencing urban professionals and runway shows that prioritized understated sophistication over embellishment.

Terminology and Nomenclature

Common Alternative Names

The mandarin collar is known by several alternative names that reflect its structural features, historical origins, and cultural associations. Primary terms include "band collar," which describes its narrow, band-like appearance encircling the neck without folds or points, often used in formal designs for a clean, minimalist look. Another common name is "stand collar," emphasizing the collar's upright, rigid posture that stands away from the neck to frame the face. "Chinese collar" directly references its roots in traditional Chinese attire, highlighting the style's heritage in garments like the . Regional variations include "Mao collar," a post-1949 term associating the style with Mao Zedong's Zhongshan suits, which featured a similar standing design and became iconic after the founding of the . In Western contexts, particularly in casual or vintage menswear, it is called "grandad collar," evoking a relaxed, grandfatherly aesthetic from mid-20th-century shirts that lacked stiff for a softer fit. Other variants encompass "choker collar," so named for its close-fitting encirclement of the neck, akin to a necklace, providing a snug, high-necked silhouette. "Mayo collar" appears in some suit nomenclature, likely drawing from regional tailoring influences in European styles, though it shares the same short, unfolded stand-up form. The term "mandarin" itself derives from the (1644–1912), where it was worn by high-ranking officials known as mandarins, a name applied by European traders to denote Chinese bureaucrats and their distinctive uniforms. "Nehru collar" is sometimes conflated with the mandarin style but originates from , named after Prime Minister ; it is typically taller with more pronounced curves, though the terms overlap in modern usage for similar stand-up designs.

Comparisons with Similar Collars

The mandarin collar differs from the Nehru collar primarily in its height and closure design; while the mandarin is shorter, typically measuring 3-4 centimeters tall, and unfolds as a smooth, continuous band without points or overlap at the front, the Nehru collar is taller, often extending higher up the neck, and incorporates a subtle V-notch at the center front for a more structured appearance, derived from the Indian achkan jacket. This distinction arises from the Nehru's adaptation in mid-20th-century Western fashion inspired by Indian attire, whereas the mandarin maintains its compact, upright form rooted in traditional East Asian garments. In contrast to the , the mandarin stands rigidly upright around the neck without any fold or roll, creating a sleek, encircling band that emphasizes and formality, whereas the Peter Pan is a soft, flat-lying collar with rounded edges that drapes gently over the shoulders for a playful, aesthetic often seen in children's or casual women's wear. The Peter Pan's lack of a stand allows it to sit flush against the body, differing fundamentally from the mandarin's elevated, non-folding structure that frames the prominently. The wing collar, used predominantly in formal tuxedo shirts, features stiffened, upturned points that project horizontally like wings, designed to accommodate bow ties and create a crisp, elegant for black-tie events, in opposition to the mandarin's seamless, unpointed band that forms a complete, button-fastened loop around the neck without any protruding elements. This makes the wing more ceremonial and rigid, while the mandarin offers a versatile, modern alternative suitable for both casual and semi-formal contexts. The Mao collar is frequently considered identical to the mandarin collar in structure—a short, upright band without folds—but is distinguished mainly by its historical and cultural context, evoking the communist-era uniforms popularized by in mid-20th-century , whereas the mandarin collar broadly references imperial Chinese origins without the political connotation. Some variations describe the Mao as slightly open at the front without a closing button, but no inherent structural divergence exists beyond nomenclature and association.

Fashion Applications

In Traditional Chinese Attire

The mandarin collar serves as a defining element in several key traditional Chinese garments, particularly those influenced by Manchu styles during the (1644–1912). In the , or —a form-fitting, one-piece for women—the high, stand-up collar encircles the neck without overlapping, creating a sleek silhouette that emphasizes elegance and poise. Similarly, the , a long, straight-cut for men, features the same collar style, often paired with a (a short ) to form complete formal ensembles. The , a festive blending Han and Manchu elements, incorporates the mandarin collar in its design, typically with symmetrical front openings secured by traditional fastenings. Functionally, the mandarin collar provides by fully covering the and , aligning with Confucian ideals of restraint in attire while allowing for graceful movement. It also offers practical warmth, acting as a protective barrier against cold weather, a continuity from earlier stand-up collars that prioritized . In ceremonial contexts, the collar frames the to accentuate jewelry, such as jade pendants or gold chains, enhancing the wearer's adornments without distraction. These garments are commonly made from fine or , with the collar's crisp edges complementing the frog closures—knotted toggles that run along the garment's overlapping front for both aesthetic and secure fastening. The mandarin collar holds particular significance in ceremonial attire for events like weddings and celebrations, where it appears in vibrant red suits to evoke prosperity and joy. Brides often wear embroidered with the collar standing prominently, symbolizing purity and formality in the union. For men, the with its collar is donned during these occasions, sometimes layered under a jacket featuring padded linings for winter festivities, providing added insulation while maintaining a structured appearance. Over time, the mandarin collar transitioned from its roots in official wear—where it adorned long robes for court and scholarly functions—to the early 20th-century suit, a militaristic yet practical garment that retained the collar's upright form for everyday formal use among revolutionaries and civilians alike. This evolution preserved the collar's role in denoting respectability across social and seasonal contexts in pre-1950s Chinese society.

In Modern Western and Global Fashion

In contemporary Western fashion, the mandarin collar has gained prominence in collarless dress shirts, offering a sleek alternative for attire that eliminates the need for traditional ties. Designers like have incorporated it into tuxedo shirts, such as the 2024 lyocell and silk-blend satin model with a bib front, providing a modern black-tie option that maintains formality without lapels. Similarly, mandarin collar suits serve as innovative alternatives for events like weddings, blending minimalist aesthetics with sophisticated tailoring, as seen in contemporary collections from brands like Hockerty, where the stand-up collar enhances a clean, unbuttoned . For women's fashion, the mandarin collar appears in high-neck blouses and dresses that emphasize elegance and versatility, often featuring subtle side slits for movement while diverging from historical precedents. Sustainable brands like utilize it in organic linen dresses with patch pockets and button fronts, promoting unisex appeal through breathable, eco-friendly materials suitable for transitional wardrobes. Other labels, such as Sui, craft mandarin collar dresses with sustainable processes, appealing to global consumers seeking timeless, gender-neutral pieces that align with ethical fashion movements. Globally, the 2020s have seen the mandarin collar integrated into minimalist , with brands like COS offering white shirts featuring hidden button plackets for a refined, everyday look, and producing stand-collar casual shirts in cotton that cater to versatile layering in urban settings. This trend reflects a broader in Western and international markets, influenced by the collar's historical spread from , now evolving into streamlined for contemporary lifestyles. As of 2025, the mandarin collar continues to influence high-profile fashion, notably appearing at the where K-pop artist S.Coups layered a Boss suit over a mandarin-collar for a slouchy yet dramatic . Designers such as have also featured it in spring/summer 2025 collections, emphasizing its role in new season . The practical advantages of the mandarin collar include its tie-free design, which simplifies styling for professional and casual occasions, and its adaptability for layering under jackets or sweaters without bulk. Its short, upright structure provides neck coverage while remaining lightweight and comfortable, making it ideal for varied climates and reducing the formality of traditional collars.

Cultural Impact

Symbolism in Chinese Culture

The mandarin collar, originating from official attire in imperial , embodies Confucian ideals of restraint, elegance, and social hierarchy through its upright, structured form that promotes a composed and dignified posture. Its clean, high-standing symbolizes and poise, aligning with traditional Chinese aesthetics of modesty and that emphasize inner over ostentation. This restraint reflects broader cultural values rooted in Confucian philosophy, where clothing serves as a visual cue for moral uprightness and balanced . In historical contexts, the mandarin collar carried strong social connotations of elite status during the (1644–1912), where it featured on formal robes worn by high-ranking officials to denote rank and authority within the bureaucratic hierarchy. These garments, including surcoats with rank badges, underscored a stratified society where attire visibly reinforced Confucian notions of propriety and order. Following the 1949 , the collar's role shifted in the , a simplified uniform that promoted egalitarian unity and proletarian , erasing class distinctions to symbolize equality and national cohesion under the new regime. Gender dynamics further highlight the collar's symbolism, particularly in the , where the high-standing design accentuates the neckline to evoke , grace, and refined elegance, harmonizing with yin principles of softness and balance in traditional Chinese cosmology. The evolved from earlier Chinese gown styles dating back to the Zhou and Han dynasties but incorporated the mandarin collar in its modern form during the , signifying status while promoting modest allure. In contemporary adaptations, such as modern shirts and jackets, the collar represents , bridging traditional roles with progressive ideals of inclusivity. Today, the mandarin collar experiences a revival as a marker of cultural among Chinese diaspora communities, often worn during Lunar New Year celebrations to affirm heritage and identity abroad. This resurgence underscores its role in fostering unity and self-expression, transforming a symbol of historical restraint into one of global cultural resilience. The mandarin collar has been prominently featured in cinema to evoke themes of elegance and cultural allure, particularly through the qipao in Wong Kar-wai's 2000 film In the Mood for Love, where Maggie Cheung's character wears over two dozen intricately designed cheongsams, each showcasing the collar's sleek, high-standing silhouette to symbolize restrained romance and 1960s Hong Kong sophistication. In the James Bond franchise, villains like Ernst Stavro Blofeld adopted mandarin-collared tunics in 1970s entries such as Diamonds Are Forever (1971), using the style to project exotic menace and authoritarian mystique, drawing from Mao suit aesthetics to heighten the characters' otherworldly threat. This trope extended to parody in the 1997 comedy Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery, where Mike Myers' Dr. Evil sports a signature grey mandarin-collared suit, satirizing the Bond villain archetype while reinforcing the collar's association with flamboyant villainy in pop culture. Celebrities have further amplified the mandarin collar's visibility on global stages, blending it with contemporary glamour. Chinese actress frequently incorporated elements, including mandarin collars, into her 2010s red-carpet appearances at events like the , where her 2010 dragon-robe gown by Laurence Xu highlighted the collar's imperial elegance amid vibrant embroidery. In 2016, Sean "Diddy" Combs popularized a retro iteration by pairing mandarin-collar shirts with tailored suits, evoking mid-century cool and influencing street-style trends that merged Eastern minimalism with Western suiting. By the 2020s, K-pop idols adopted hybrid ensembles incorporating traditional Asian motifs, as seen with BTS's use of Hanbok-inspired elements in their wardrobes for performances and awards. The collar's pop culture footprint extends to music and fashion icons who drove its adoption into broader trends. In the 1960s, wore Nehru jackets—featuring mandarin collars—inspired by Indian achkans, sparking the mod subculture's embrace of the style as a symbol of exotic rebellion and global fusion, with George Harrison's versions becoming emblematic of the era's psychedelic shift. In Western media, the mandarin collar often embodied , portraying Eastern influences as enigmatic or villainous backdrops in films and fashion editorials from the mid-20th century onward, yet it has evolved toward cultural appreciation through inclusive casting and designer reinterpretations that highlight its timeless versatility. However, its adoption in Western fashion has sparked debates on cultural appropriation, with critics arguing that decontextualized uses perpetuate stereotypes, as seen in incidents like the 2018 backlash against a U.S. teenager wearing a to .

References

  1. https://kirrinfinch.com/blogs/news/what-is-a-mandarin-collar
  2. https://www.xacus.com/am-en/blog/mandarin-shirt-collar-from-its-origins-to-the-evolutions-in-style
  3. http://english.cssn.cn/skw_culture/202407/t20240718_5765357.shtml
  4. https://store.newhanfu.com/the-mandarin-collar-a-historical-and-fashion-journey.html
  5. https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shirt-collars-men/
  6. https://kingdomofwhite.com/blogs/journal/all-you-need-to-know-about-a-mandarin-collar-shirt
  7. https://zsogarment.com/blog/mandarin-collar-shirts-all-you-need-to-know/
  8. https://hangrr.com/resources/mandarin-collar-suit-modern-facts-guide
  9. https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2016/12/06/sewing-glossary-how-to-draft-and-sew-a-mandarin-collar-tutorial/
  10. https://dresspatternmaking.com/patternmaking-basics/garment-elements/collars/mandarin-collar
  11. https://itch-to-stitch.com/sew-mandarin-collar-demo-bonn-shirt-dress/
  12. https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/shirt-collar-styles-a-complete-guide/
  13. https://www.cottonattire.com/blogs/shirt-guide/high-collar-dress-shirt
  14. https://arrow.nnnow.com/arrow-woman-women-notched-mandarin-collar-shirt-IM5K4HMDVVW
  15. https://www.thecreativecurator.com/collars/
  16. https://heronsghyll.com/blogs/journal/the-definitive-guide-to-stand-collars
  17. https://www.pauljamesknitwear.com/blogs/guide/mandarin-vs-band-collars
  18. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/375857527_Observations_on_the_Body_in_the_Study_of_Fashion_History_A_Discussion_on_the_Emergence_of_the_Stand-up_Collar_in_Late_Ming
  19. https://www.nhb.gov.sg/acm/-/media/acm/acm2017/documents/content-guides/large-print-guides/large-print-guides_accessibility_fashion-textiles-gallery.pdf
  20. http://english.cssn.cn/skw_culture/CULTURE_Horizontal/202407/t20240725_5766874.shtml
  21. https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/liberty-a-chinese-store
  22. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/155776
  23. https://quod.lib.umich.edu/a/ars/13441566.0047.009/--from-costume-to-fashion-visions-of-chinese-modernity?rgn=main%3Bview=fulltext
  24. https://inside.safariland.com/blog/250-years-of-us-army-uniforms/
  25. https://thebetterindia.com/163533/modi-vest-nehru-jacket-beatles-fashion-india-news/
  26. https://www.vogue.com/article/1960s-fashion-history-lesson
  27. https://www.vogue.com/projects/13467296/from-the-archives-calvin-klein-kate-moss-raf-simons-kirsty-hume
  28. https://taelor.style/blogs/mens-style/ultimate-guide-to-mens-shirt-collars
  29. https://oliverspencer.co.uk/blogs/journal/a-brief-history-of-the-grandad-collar-shirt
  30. https://dresspatternmaking.com/patternmaking-basics/garment-elements/collars
  31. https://suitsecret.com/blogs/suit-secret-blog/mandarin-collar-suits-explained-style-history-and-how-to-wear-them-right
  32. https://winslets.com/blogs/sewing-basics/beginners-guide-to-collars-in-sewing
  33. https://www.thestiffcollar.com/en-us/blogs/the-collar-speaks/62655811-when-the-orient-meets-the-occident
  34. https://ivyandpearlboutique.com/blogs/fashion-howto/the-complete-illustrated-guide-to-garment-shirt-blouse-tops-collars
  35. https://www.farfetch.com/style-guide/how-to/a-handy-guide-to-shirt-collar-types/
  36. https://www.mrporter.com/en-us/journal/fashion/ultimate-guide-shirt-collar-types-1963510
  37. https://stenstroms.com/us/explore/the-stenstroms-shirt/collar-guide
  38. https://www.ninesparis.com/content/121-the-different-shirt-collars
  39. https://www.premieremanche.com/en/blog?id=9
  40. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1287394/qipao-unknown/
  41. https://www.cheongsamology.com/the-masculine-counterpart-exploring-the-changshan-for-men/
  42. https://www.travelchinaguide.com/intro/clothing/tangzhuang/
  43. https://iafor.org/archives/journals/iafor-journal-of-arts-and-humanities/10.22492.ijah.8.1.09.pdf
  44. https://www.newhanfu.com/43707.html
  45. https://www.chinahighlights.com/travelguide/traditional-chinese-clothes-cheongsam.htm
  46. https://eastmeetsdress.com/blogs/blog/tang-suit-101
  47. https://www.provenance.co/post/chinese-wedding-customs-and-traditions-101
  48. https://standtalld.com/blogs/news/the-evolution-of-chinese-garments-from-the-qing-dynasty-to-the-1950s-hong-kong-cheongsam
  49. https://clothbase.com/items/f24d2717_tom-ford-mandarin-collar-bib-front-lyocell-and-silk-blend-satin-tuxedo-shirt-white_tom-ford
  50. https://www.hockerty.com/en-us/blog/mandarin-collar-suit-guide
  51. https://enzocustom.com/blog/types-of-tuxedos
  52. https://www.eileenfisher.com/organic-linen-mandarin-collar-dress/S3RII-D5188.html
  53. https://us.wearesui.com/products/the-harmony-mandarin-collar-organic-cotton-dress
  54. https://www.ebay.com/itm/405913486009
  55. https://www.uniqlo.com/us/en/products/E446430-000/00
  56. https://www.vogue.com/article/s-coups-seventeen-met-gala-boss
  57. https://www.vogue.com/article/spring-summer-2025-new-silhouettes
  58. https://blog.lanieri.com/en/oriental-style-mandarin-collar-shirt/
  59. https://thenativity.in/blogs/linen-clothing/the-timeless-appeal-of-linen-shirts-for-men-classic-vs-mandarin-collar
  60. http://www.rjcc.or.kr/journal/article.php?code=17261
  61. http://archive.maas.museum/hsc/evrev/chinese_dress.html
  62. https://www.christies.com/en/stories/chinese-robes-collecting-guide-fe2dc4625607402dac039311320a3700
  63. https://depts.washington.edu/chinaciv/clothing/11maosui.htm
  64. https://www.foreverinfashion.org/Mao-Suit:-China%2560s-Mid-20th-Century-Uniform/I261.htm
  65. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/10936/the-qipao-cheongsam-history-meaning-and-modern-style-in-chinese-american-culture
  66. https://www.cnn.com/style/article/cheongsam-maggie-cheung-in-the-mood-for-love-remember-when
  67. https://fashionista.com/2022/11/maggie-cheung-cheongsam-in-the-mood-for-love
  68. https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20151007-from-red-guards-to-bond-villains-why-the-mao-suit-endures
  69. https://engelsbergideas.com/notebook/all-hail-the-mandarin-collar/
  70. https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/gallery/fan-bingbing-cannes-film-festival-519525/
  71. https://www.vogue.com/article/sean-diddy-combs-mandarin-collar-dressing-celebrity-street-style
  72. https://www.vogue.com/article/bts-korean-style-american-music-awards
  73. https://helenemthian.wordpress.com/2021/02/11/orientalism-in-fashion/
  74. https://fashionexhibitionmaking.arts.ac.uk/orientalism/
  75. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/may/04/american-woman-qipao-china-cultural-appropriation-minorities-usa-dress
Add your contribution
Related Hubs
User Avatar
No comments yet.