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Necktie
Necktie
from Wikipedia

A man wearing a colorful necktie

A necktie (American English)[1][2] – also called a long tie or, more usually, simply a tie (Commonwealth English)[1][2] – is a cloth article of formal neckwear or office attire worn for decorative or symbolic purposes, knotted at the throat, resting under a folded shirt collar, and usually draped down the chest. On rare occasions neckties are worn above a winged shirt collar. Neckties are usually paired with collared dress shirts under suit jackets or blazers, but have often been seen with other articles, such as sport coats and v-neck sweaters. Neckties can also be part of a uniform, however, in occupations where manual labor is involved, the end of the necktie is often tucked into the button line front placket of a dress shirt, such as the dress uniform of the United States Marine Corps.

Neckties are reported by fashion historians to be descended from the Regency era double-ended cravat. Adult neckties are generally unsized and tapered along the length, but may be available in a longer sizes for taller people, designed to show just the wide end. Widths are usually matched to the width of a suit jacket lapel. Neckties are traditionally worn with the top shirt button fastened, and the tie knot resting between the collar points.[3] Importance is given to the styling of the knot. In the late 1990s, Thomas Fink and Yong Mao of University of Cambridge mathematically determined 13 knots as "aesthetically" viable out of a possible total of 85, of which the commonest known are the four-in-hand, the Pratt, and the Windsor knots.[4] The cut of the folded collar of the dress shirt is typically paired to the style of knot used.

Neckties were originally considered "menswear", but are now considered unisex items in most Western cultures. Since the turn of the millennium, there has been a significant decline in tie-wearing across the globe due to opposition to neckties — mainly associated with anti-necktie sentiment and to a minor degree by health and safety issues.[5][6]

Necktie is also US slang term for a hangman's noose.[7]

History

[edit]

Origins

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Jabot — a pleated, ruffled, or lace-trimmed frill worn over and down the front of a shirt

The necktie that spread from Europe traces back to Croatian mercenaries serving in France during the Thirty Years' War (1618–1648). These mercenaries from the Military Frontier, wearing their traditional small, knotted neckerchiefs, aroused the interest of the Parisians.[8] Because of the difference between the Croatian word for Croats, Hrvati, and the French word, Croates, the garment gained the name cravat (cravate in French).[9] Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat around 1646 when he was seven and set the fashion for French nobility. From its introduction by the French king, men wore lace cravats and jabots — pleated, ruched, or frilled — which took a large amount of time and effort to arrange. This new article of clothing started a fashion craze in Europe; both men and women wore pieces of fabric around their necks.[10] Jabots remain today as part of the dress code for legal practitioners in court and for formal academic wear. Cravats were often tied in place by cravat strings, arranged neatly and tied in a bow.[citation needed]

International Necktie Day is celebrated on October 18 in Croatia and in various cities around the world, including in Dublin, Tübingen, Como, Tokyo, Sydney and other towns.[11]

1710–1800: stocks, solitaires, neckcloths, cravats

[edit]
A Regency-style neckcloth tied in a bow on a Grafton collar

In 1715, another kind of neckwear, called "stocks" made its appearance. The term originally referred to a leather collar, laced at the back, worn by soldiers to promote holding the head high in a military bearing. The leather stock also afforded some protection to the major blood vessels of the neck from saber or bayonet attacks. General Sherman is seen wearing a leather stock in several American Civil War-era photographs.

Stock ties were initially just a small piece of muslin folded into a narrow band wound a few times around the shirt collar and secured from behind with a pin. At the time, it was fashionable for men to wear their hair long, past shoulder length with the ends tucked into a black silk bag worn at the nape of the neck. This was known as the bag-wig hairstyle, and the neckwear worn with it was the stock. The solitaire was a variation of the bag wig, which had matching ribbons stitched around the bag. After the stock was in place, the ribbons would be brought forward and tied in a large bow in front of the wearer.

In the late 18th century, a resurgence in fashion for cravats began attributed to foppish young Englishmen who returned from the Grand Tour of Europe bringing with them new ideas about fashion from Italy, who were pejoratively called macaronis from their taste for pasta, then little known in Britain[12] — as mentioned in the song "Yankee Doodle". The French contemporaries of these macaronis were termed the 'petits-maîtres' and incroyables.

1800–1850: cravat, stocks, scarves, bandanas

[edit]
Pleated silk satin stock, Boston, c. 1830. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, AC1998.78.1

At this time, there was also much interest in the way to tie a proper cravat and this led to a series of publications. This began in 1818 with the publication of Neckclothitania, a style manual that contained illustrated instructions on how to tie 14 different cravats. Soon after, the immense skill required to tie the cravat in certain styles quickly became a mark of a man's elegance and wealth.[13] It was also the first book to use the word tie in association with neckwear.

It was about this time that black stocks made their appearance. Their popularity eclipsed the white cravat, except for formal and evening wear. These remained popular through the 1850s. At this time, another form of neckwear worn was the scarf. This was where a neckerchief or bandana was held in place by slipping the ends through a finger or scarf ring at the neck instead of using a knot. This is the classic sailor neckwear and may have been adopted from them.

1860s–1920s: bow ties, scarf/neckerchief, the ascot, the long tie

[edit]
Mathew Brady wearing a tie in 1875

With the Industrial Revolution, more people wanted neckwear that was easy to put on, was comfortable and would last an entire workday. Long ties were designed to be long, thin, and easy to knot, without accidentally coming undone. Academic tailors Castell & Son (Oxford) Limited, which opened in 1846 in Oxford, takes credit for creating the first modern style necktie in 1870 — the original form of design still worn by millions.[14]

Theodore Roosevelt in a portrait wearing a necktie

In 1895, two years after his presidency ended, Benjamin Harrison became the first former US president portrayed wearing the modern long tie, and in 1903, Theodore Roosevelt became the first US president to wear the modern long tie in a presidential portrait while in office.[15][16]

By this time, the sometimes complicated array of knots and styles of neckwear gave way to neckties and bow ties, the latter a much smaller, more convenient version of the cravat. Another type of neckwear, the ascot tie, was considered de rigueur for male guests at formal dinners and male spectators at races. These ascots had wide flaps that were crossed and pinned together on the chest.

1920s–1945

[edit]

During the Interwar period ties were typically worn shorter than they are today. This was due, in part, to men at that time more commonly wearing trousers with a higher rise (at the natural waist, just above the belly button) and waistcoats; i.e., ties could be shorter because trousers sat higher up and, at any rate, the tip of the tie was almost always concealed.

Jazz musicians Thelonious Monk, Howard McGhee, Roy Eldridge, and Teddy Hill, in front of Minton's Playhouse in New York City, wearing zoot suits with wide extravagant neckties in 1947

After the First World War, hand-painted ties became an accepted form of decoration in the US.[17] The widths of some of these ties went up to 4+12 inches (11 cm). These loud, flamboyant ties – popularly paired with counter-culture over-sized zoot suits of hipsters in the jazz and bebop periods – and these sold very well through to the 1950s.

In 1922, a New York tie maker, Jesse Langsdorf, came up with a revolutionary method of cutting the fabric on the bias and sewing it in three segments.[18] This technique greatly improved elasticity and facilitated the fabric's return to its original shape. It allowed the tie to evenly fall from the knot without twisting. Since then, the "Langsdorf" tie has been the standard form, due to being much easier to care for and giving less trouble in tying neatly.[19] Yet another development during that time was the method used to secure the lining and interlining once the tie had been folded into shape.

1945–1995

[edit]
Two patterned neckties

Around 1944, ties started to become not only wider but even wilder. This was the beginning of what was later labeled the Bold Look: ties that reflected the returning GIs' desire to break with wartime uniformity. Widths reached 5 inches (13 cm), and designs included Art Deco, hunting scenes, scenic "photographs", tropical themes, and even girlie prints, though more traditional designs were also available. The typical length was 48 inches (120 cm).

The Bold Look lasted until about 1951 when the "Mister T" look (so termed by Esquire magazine) was introduced. The new style, characterized by tapered suits, slimmer lapels, and smaller hat brims, included thinner and not so wild ties. Tie widths slimmed to 3 inches (7.6 cm) by 1953 and continued getting thinner up until the mid-1960s; length increased to about 52 inches (130 cm) as men started wearing their trousers lower, closer to the hips. Through the 1950s, neckties remained somewhat colorful, yet more restrained than in the previous decade. Small geometric shapes were often employed against a solid background (i.e., foulards); diagonal stripes were also popular. By the early 1960s, dark, solid ties became very common, with widths slimming down to as little as 1 inch (2.5 cm).

A policeman in Hamburg, Germany, wearing a necktie

The 1960s brought about an influx of pop art influenced designs. The first was designed by Michael Fish when he worked at Turnbull & Asser, and was introduced in Britain in 1965 — the term kipper tie was a pun on his name, as well as a reference to the triangular shape of the front of the tie. Ties became wider, returning to their 4+12-inch (11 cm) width, sometimes with garish colors and designs. The exuberance of the styles of the late 1960s and early 1970s gradually gave way to more restrained designs. The traditional designs of the 1930s and 1950s, such as those produced by Tootal, reappeared, particularly Paisley patterns. Ties began to be sold along with shirts, and designers slowly began to experiment with bolder colors.

In the 1980s, narrower ties — some as narrow as 1+12 inches (3.8 cm), but more typically 3 to 3+14 inches (7.6 to 8.3 cm) wide — became popular again. Novelty (or joke) ties or deliberately kitschy ties designed to make a statement gained a certain popularity in the 1980s and 1990s. These included ties featuring cartoon characters, commercial products, or pop culture icons, and those made of unusual materials, such as leather, plastic, or even wood. Into the 1990s, as ties got wider again, increasingly unusual designs became common. During this period, with men wearing their trousers at their hips, ties lengthened to 57 inches (140 cm). The number of ties sold in the United States reached a peak of 110 million in the early 1990s.[20]

1995–present

[edit]
A collection of different colors of ties

During this period, the use of neckties in the workplace have undergone a gradual but significant decline. By 2001 in the US, tie sales per year almost halved to 60 million, from the early 1990s peak.[20] Since then, the massive decline of being worn by men has continued, especially with most clubs, entertainment venues, and restaurants no longer requiring them to be worn for entry.[21] It is no longer seen as a fashion staple in menswear and it is declining in formal wear as well. Whereas conversely the fashion for women wearing them has expanded, but this is still much lower than levels of wear by men. This fashion volte-face is seen as challenging the status quo and undermining the ideas of 'masculinity' and 'femininity' – drawing inspiration from Marlene Dietrich of the 1930s, via 70s Diane Keaton in Annie Hall, to kd lang of the 1990s – by the use of power dressing to give a different style of "armor".[22][23]

At the start of the 21st century, the fashion for ties has widened to 3+12 to 3+34 inches (8.9 to 9.5 cm) wide, with a broad range of patterns available, from traditional stripes, foulards, and club ties (ties with a crest or design signifying a club, organization, or order) to abstract, themed, and humorous ones. The standard length remains 57 inches (140 cm), though other lengths vary from 46 to 60 inches (117 to 152 cm). While ties as wide as 3+34 inches (9.5 cm) are still available, ties under 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide also became popular, particularly with younger men and the fashion-conscious.

Neckties as womenswear

[edit]
Biologist Gertrude Van Wagenen wearing a suit and tie

During the women's suffrage movement and women's liberation movement in the late 1800s, neckties were adopted heavily into women's fashion. Coco Chanel is often credited for advancing the acceptable wear of neckties by women in the 1930s, but a large movement occurred during World War II, when women started working in factories and offices in large numbers.[24]

Ethnic Mizo schoolgirls in Mizoram, India wearing neckties as part of the school uniform

Neckties are sometimes part of uniforms worn by women, which nowadays might be required in professions such as in the restaurant industry or in police forces. In many countries, girls are now required to wear ties as part of primary and secondary school uniforms.

Ties may also be used by women as a fashion statement. During the late 1970s and 1980s, it was not uncommon for young women in the United States to wear ties as part of a casual outfit.[25][26] This trend was popularized by Diane Keaton, who wore a tie as the titular character in the 1977 film Annie Hall.[27][28]

In 1993, neckties reappeared as prominent fashion accessories for women in both Europe and the U.S.[29] Canadian recording artist Avril Lavigne wore neckties with tank tops early in her career.

Types

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Modern cravat and Ascot tie

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The modern cravat is slightly different from the popular cravats during the Regency era.[30]

Four-in-hand

[edit]

The four-in-hand necktie (as distinct from the four-in-hand knot) was fashionable in Great Britain in the 1850s. Early neckties were simple, rectangular cloth strips cut on the square, with square ends. The term four-in-hand originally described a carriage with four horses and a driver; later, it also was the name of a London gentlemen's club, The Four-in-Hand Driving Company founded in 1856. Some etymologic reports are that carriage drivers knotted their reins with a four-in-hand knot (see below), whilst others claim the carriage drivers wore their scarves knotted 'four-in-hand', but, most likely, members of the club began wearing their neckties so knotted, thus making it fashionable. In the latter half of the 19th century, the four-in-hand knot and the four-in-hand necktie were synonymous. As fashion changed from stiff shirt collars to soft, turned-down collars, the four-in-hand necktie knot gained popularity; its sartorial dominance rendered the term four-in-hand redundant usage, shortened long tie and tie.

In 1922, Jesse Langsdorf of New York City introduced ties cut on the bias (US) or cross-grain (UK), allowing the tie to evenly fall from the knot without twisting; this also caused any woven pattern such as stripes to appear diagonally across the tie.

Today, four-in-hand ties are part of men's dress clothing in both Western and non-Western societies, particularly for business.

Four-in-hand ties are generally made from silk or polyester. Occasionally cotton and wool is used, the latter typically knitted, these common before World War II but not as popular nowadays. From the advent of man-made fabrics, microfiber ties have also appeared. In the 1950s and 1960s, microfibers such as Dacron and rayon were used, but since have fallen into disfavor. Modern ties appear in a wide variety of colors and patterns, notably striped (usually diagonally); club ties (with a small motif repeated regularly all over the tie); foulards (with small geometric shapes on a solid background); paisleys; and solids. Novelty ties featuring icons from popular culture (such as cartoons, actors, or holiday images), sometimes with flashing lights, have enjoyed some popularity since the 1980s.

Six- and seven-fold ties

[edit]

A seven-fold tie is an unlined construction variant of the four-in-hand necktie which pre-existed the use of interlining. Its creation at the end of the 19th century is attributed to the Parisian shirtmaker Washington Tremlett for an American customer.[31] A seven-fold tie is constructed completely out of silk. A six-fold tie is a modern alteration of the seven-fold tie. This construction method is more symmetrical than the true seven-fold. It has an interlining which gives it a little more weight and is self-tipped.[citation needed]

Skinny tie

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A skinny tie is a necktie that is narrower than the standard tie and often all-black. Skinny ties have widths of around 2+12 inches (6.4 cm) at their widest, compared to usually 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) for regular ties.[32] Skinny ties were first popularized in the late 1950s and early 1960s by British bands such as the Beatles and the Kinks, alongside the subculture that embraced such bands, the mods. This is because clothes of the time evolved to become more form-fitting and tailored.[8] They were later repopularized in the late 1970s and early 1980s by new wave and power pop bands such as the Knack, Blondie and Duran Duran.[33]

"Pre-tied" ties and development of clip-ons

[edit]
Early illustration of a pre-tied clip-on tie.[34]
A solid black clip-on tie

The "pre-tied" necktie, or more commonly, the clip-on necktie, is a permanently knotted four-in-hand or bow tie affixed by a clip or hook. The clip-on tie sees use with children, and in occupations where a traditional necktie might pose a safety hazard to mechanical equipment operators, etc.[35] (see § Health and safety hazards below).

The perceived utility of this development in the history of the style is evidenced by the series of patents issued for various forms of these ties, beginning in the late 19th century,[34][36] and by the businesses filing these applications and fulfilling a market need for them. For instance, a patent filed by Joseph W. Less of the One-In-Hand Tie Company of Clinton, Iowa for "Pre-tied neckties and methods for making the same" noted that:

[M]any efforts [...] in the past to provide a satisfactory four-in-hand tie so [...] that the wearer [...] need not tie the knot [...] had numerous disadvantages and [...] limited commercial success. Usually, such ties have not accurately simulated the Windsor knot, and have often had a[n] [...] unconventional made-up appearance. Frequently, [...] [they were] difficult to attach and uncomfortable when worn [...] [and] unduly expensive [...] [offering] little advantage over the conventional.[37]

The inventor proceeded to claim for the invention—the latest version of the 1930s–1950s product line from former concert violinist Joseph Less, Iowan brothers Walter and Louis, and son-in-law W. Emmett Thiessen evolved to be identifiable as the modern clip-on[38]—"a novel method for making up the tie [...] [eliminating] the neckband of the tie, which is useless and uncomfortable in warm weather [...] [and providing] means of attachment which is effective and provides no discomfort to the wearer", and in doing so achieves "accurate simulation of the Windsor knot, and extremely low material and labor costs".[37] Notably, the company made use of ordinary ties purchased from the New York garment industry and was a significant employer of women in the pre-war and World War II years.[38]

Knots

[edit]
A demonstration of tying a tie
A half Windsor knot with a dimple
An Atlantic knot, which is notable for being tied backwards

There are four main knots used to knot neckties. In rising order of difficulty, they are:

Although he did not invent it, the Windsor knot is named after the Edward, Duke of Windsor. The Duke did favor a voluminous knot; however, he achieved this by having neckties specially made of thicker cloths.

In the late 1990s, two researchers, Thomas Fink and Yong Mao of Cambridge's Cavendish Laboratory, used mathematical modeling to discover that 85 knots are possible with a conventional tie (limiting the number "moves" used to tie the knot to nine; longer sequences of moves result in too large a knot or leave the hanging ends of the tie too short). The models were published in academic journals, while the results and the 85 knots were published in layman's terms in a book entitled The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie.[4]

Of the 85 knots, Fink and Mao selected 13 knots as "aesthetic" knots, using the qualities of symmetry and balance with an additional three "variant" knots. Based on these mathematical principles, the researchers came up with not only the four necktie knots in common use, but nine more, some of which had seen limited use, and some that are believed to have been codified for the first time.

Other types of knots include:

  • Small knot (also "oriental knot", "Kent knot"): the smallest possible necktie knot. It forms an equilateral triangle, like the half-Windsor, but much more compact (Fink–Mao notation: Lo Ri Co T, Knot 1). It is also the smallest knot to begin inside-out.
  • Nicky knot: an alternative version of the Pratt knot, but better-balanced and self-releasing (Lo Ci Ro Li Co T, Knot 4). Supposedly named for Nikita Khrushchev, it tends to be equally referred to as the Pratt knot in men's style literature. This is the version of the Pratt knot favored by Fink and Mao.
  • Atlantic knot: a reversed Pratt knot, highlighting the structure of the knot normally hidden on the back. For the wide blade to remain in front and right-side-out, the knot must begin right-side-out, and the thin end must be wrapped around the wide end. (Ri Co Ri Lo Ci T; not cataloged by Fink and Mao, but would be numbered 5r according to their classification.)
  • Prince Albert knot (also "double knot", "cross Victoria knot"): A variant of the four-in-hand with an extra pass of the wide blade around the front, before passing the wide blade through both of the resultant loops (Li Ro Li Ro Li Co T T, Knot 62). A version knotted through only the outermost loop is known as the Victoria knot (Li Ro Li Ro Li Co T, Knot 6).
  • Christensen knot (also "cross knot"): An elongated, symmetrical knot, whose main feature is the cruciform structure made by knotting the necktie through the double loop made in the front (Li Ro Ci Lo Ri Lo Ri Co T T, Knot 252). While it can be made with modern neckties, it is most effective with thinner ties of consistent width, which fell out of common use after the 19th century.
  • Ediety knot (also "Merovingian knot"): a doubled Atlantic knot, best known as the tie knot worn by the character "the Merovingian" in the 2003 film The Matrix Reloaded. This tie can be knotted with the thin end over the wide end, as with the Atlantic knot, or with the wide end over the thin end to mimic the look seen in the film, with the narrow blade in front. (Ri Co Ri Lo Ci Ri Co Ri Lo Ci T – not cataloged by Fink and Mao, as its 10 moves exceed their parameters.)
  • Trinity knot: This knot was first created by Christopher Johnson in Watertown, WI in 2004. He was inspired by the 2003 film The Matrix Reloaded. It is relatively easy to tie in spite of its complex look. It is best with a tie that is without taper or flare on the narrow blade. (Tying the thin end over the larger end, it can be described as Li Co Li Ro Ci Lo Ri Co T Li Ro T, with the final through move being like a Ci move. Due to having 11 moves and two through moves, it was not listed by Fink and Mao.)
  • Herringbone knot (also "Eldredge knot"): This knot is tied in almost the same process as the Trinity knot, but tends to create more volume to the sides, and is thus most suited to spread or cutaway collars.
  • Grantchester knot: A self-releasing, asymmetric knot.

Ties as a sign of membership and other patterns

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Club ties

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Club ties are patterned ties, often featuring heraldic patterns, representing institutions that are most often academic, such as universities and colleges. Club ties rarely feature striped patterns, and always feature a repeating shield, logo, or pattern of some kind.

Regimental ties

[edit]
A chart of British Army "Regimental Ties," issued by the Ministry of Defence
A chart of British Navy "Regimental Ties," issued by the Ministry of Defence

In Britain and other Commonwealth countries, Regimental ties have been used to denote association with a particular military regiment, corps, or service. It is considered inappropriate for persons who are unaffiliated with a regiment, university, school, or other organization, to wear a necktie affiliated with that organization. In Commonwealth countries, necktie stripes commonly run from the left shoulder down to the right side, following the expression; "From heart to sword." In the James Bond franchise, the titular character wears the regimental tie of the Royal Navy and other characters are seen wearing ties from other regiments and military organizations. Members of the British Royal Family are frequently seen wearing regimental striped ties corresponding to the military unit in which they have served or been appointed to an honorary position such as colonel-in-chief.

The traditional method of styling regimental ties still remains, however, not all British regiments use the Regimental pattern in the modern era. Some regiments use the Club tie pattern, and some use the Repp tie pattern.

Repp ties

[edit]

Prince Albert Edward was the first sitting member of the British Royal Family to ever visit the Americas, including trips to Canada and the United States. His visit to the United States began a phenomenon of replication in the Western Hemisphere, but either out of deference to the British regiments, or because the method of replication meant that the ties had to be produced in a mirror image, the American stripe tie was produced in the reverse of the Regimental tie: from the right shoulder to the left hip.[39]

When Brooks Brothers introduced similar striped ties in the United States, around the beginning of the 20th century, they had their stripes run from the right shoulder to the left side, in part to distinguish them from British striped regimental ties.

In the United States, diagonally striped ties are commonly worn with no connotation of a group membership. Typically, American striped ties have the stripes running downward from the wearer's right (the opposite of the European style). (However, when Americans wear striped ties as a sign of membership, the European stripe style may be used.) In some cases, American "repp stripe" ties may simply be reverse images of British regimental ties. Striped ties are strongly associated with the Ivy League and preppy style of dress.

School ties

[edit]
The two variants of the school tie for Phillips Academy

School ties are most often found in Club pattern or Regimental patterns. The academic variant of a striped necktie is known as the Collegiate stripe. The use of coloured and patterned neckties indicating the wearer's membership in a club, military regiment, school, professional association (Royal Colleges, Inns of Courts) or other institution, dates only from late-19th century England. The immediate forerunners of today's college neckties were in 1880 the oarsmen of Exeter College, Oxford, who tied the bands of their straw hats around their necks.

In the United Kingdom and many Commonwealth countries, neckties are commonly an essential component of a school uniform and are either worn daily, seasonally or on special occasions with the school blazer. In Hong Kong, Australia and New Zealand, neckties are worn as the everyday uniform, usually as part of the winter uniform. In countries with no winter such as Sri Lanka, Singapore, Malaysia, and many African countries, the necktie is usually worn as part of the formal uniform on special occasions or functions. Neckties may also denote membership in a house or a leadership role (i.e. school prefect, house captain, etc.).

The most common pattern for such ties in the UK and most of Europe consists of diagonal stripes of alternating colors running down the tie from the wearer's left. Since neckties are cut on the bias (diagonally), the stripes on the cloth are parallel or perpendicular to the selvage, not diagonal. The colors themselves may be particularly significant. The dark blue and red regimental tie of the Household Division is said to represent the blue blood (i.e. nobility) of the Royal Family, and the red blood of the Guards.[citation needed]

An alternative membership tie pattern to diagonal stripes is either a single emblem or a crest centered and placed where a tie pin normally would be, or a repeated pattern of such motifs. Sometimes, both types are used by an organization, either simply to offer a choice or to indicate a distinction among levels of membership. Occasionally, a hybrid design is used, in which alternating stripes of color are overlaid with repeated motif patterns.

Tartan

[edit]
Head and shoulders view, in black and white, of Edward in a grey suit, white shirt, and starkly tartaned tie
Edward, Duke of Windsor, in a tartan necktie, 1945

Tartan neckties are often found as variations on the theme of clan tartans in the Scottish Register of Tartans. Tartan (Scottish Gaelic: breacan [ˈpɾʲɛxkən]) is a patterned cloth consisting of crossing horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours, forming repeating symmetrical patterns known as setts. Originating in woven wool, tartan is most strongly associated with Scotland, where it has been used for centuries in traditional clothing such as the kilt. Historically, specific tartans were linked to Scottish clans, families, or regions, with patterns and colours derived from local dyes.

Tartan became a symbol of Scottish identity, especially from the 16th century onward, despite bans following the Jacobite rising of 1745 under the Dress Act 1746. The 19th-century Highland Revival popularized tartan globally, associating it with Highland dress and the Scottish diaspora. Today, tartan is used worldwide in clothing, accessories, and design, transcending its traditional roots. Modern tartans are registered for organisations, individuals, and commemorative purposes, with thousands of designs in the Scottish Register of Tartans.

While often linked to Scottish heritage, tartans exist in other cultures, such as Africa, East and South Asia, and Eastern Europe. They also serve institutional roles, like military uniforms and corporate branding. Tartan patterns vary in complexity, from simple two-colour designs to intricate motifs with over twenty hues. Colours historically derived from natural dyes, such as lichens and alder bark, are now produced synthetically.

Paisley

[edit]
Modern paisley tie

Paisley is an ornamental textile design using the boteh (Persian: بته) or buta, a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of Persian origin, paisley designs became popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post-Mughal Empire versions of the design from India, especially in the form of Kashmir shawls, and were then replicated locally. The English language name for the patterns comes from the town of Paisley, in the west of Scotland, a centre for textiles where paisley designs were reproduced using jacquard looms. The pattern is still commonly seen in Britain and other English-speaking countries on neckties, waistcoats, and scarfs, and remains popular in other items of clothing and textiles in Iran and South and Central Asian countries.

Some design scholars believe the buta is the convergence of a stylized floral spray and a cypress tree: a Zoroastrian symbol of life and eternity.[40] The "bent" cedar is also a sign of strength and resistance but modesty. The floral motif originated in the Sassanid dynasty, was used later in the Safavid dynasty of Persia (1501–1736), and was a major textile pattern in Iran during the Qajar and Pahlavi dynasties. In these periods, the pattern was used to decorate royal regalia, crowns, and court garments, as well as textiles used by the general population.[citation needed]  Persian and Central Asian designs usually range the motifs in orderly rows, with a plain background.

Occasions for neckties

[edit]

Traditionally, ties are a staple of office attire, especially for professionals. Proponents of the tie's place in the office assert that ties neatly demarcate work and leisure time.[41]

The theory is that the physical presence of something around your neck serves as a reminder to knuckle down and focus on the job at hand. Conversely, loosening the tie after work signals that one can relax.[41]

Outside of these environments, ties are usually worn especially when attending traditionally formal or professional events, including weddings, important religious ceremonies, funerals, job interviews, court appearances, and fine dining.[42]

Opposition to neckties

[edit]

Health and safety hazards

[edit]
A trainee machinist and his supervisor wear neckties while at work in a machine shop in 1917

Necktie wearing presents some risks for entanglement, vasoconstriction, electrocution, and infection. Entanglement is a risk when working with industrial and heavy plant machinery, machine tools, and laboratory equipment, as well as in dangerous, possibly violent, jobs such as police officers and prison guards.[43]

Police officers, traffic wardens, and security guards in the UK wear clip-on ties which instantly unclip when pulled to prevent any risk of strangulation during a confrontation. They are part of the National Framework Contract for the police uniform.[citation needed]

Paramedics performing life support remove the casualty's necktie as a first step to ensure it does not obstruct the airway or constrict bloodflow. A 2018 study published in the medical journal Neuroradiology found that a Windsor knot tightened to the point of "slight discomfort" could interrupt as much as 7.5% of cerebral blood flow.[44][45] A 2013 study published in the British Journal of Ophthalmology found increased intraocular pressure in such cases, which can aggravate the condition of people with weakened retinas.[46] There may be additional risks for people with glaucoma.

Neckties might also be a health risk for persons other than the wearer, particularly in certain medical fields. In hospitals, they are believed to be vectors of disease transmission. Hospitals take seriously the cross-infection of patients by doctors wearing infected neckties,[47] because neckties are less frequently cleaned than most other clothes. On September 17, 2007, British hospitals published rules banning neckties.[48] Notwithstanding such fears, many general practitioners and dentists continue to wear neckties for a professional image, though, some prefer to wear bow-ties instead due to their short length and relative lack of hindrance.

Religious opposition

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Alexis Tsipras and Abolhassan Banisadr, two male politicians who typically do not wear ties.

Christian denominations teaching plain dress

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Among many Christian denominations teaching the doctrine of plain dress, long neckties are not worn by men; this includes many Anabaptist communities (such as the Conservative Mennonite churches), traditional Quakers (who view neckties as contravening their testimony of simplicity), and some holiness denominations.[49][50][51][52][53][54][55] While Reformed Mennonites, among some other Anabaptist communities, reject the long necktie, the wearing of the bow tie is customary.[49]

Islamic anti-Western sentiment

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An example of anti-necktie sentiment is found in Iran, where the government of the Islamic Republic considers neckties to be "decadent, un-Islamic and viewed as 'symbols of the Cross' and the oppressive West".[56] Most Iranian men in Iran have retained the Western-style long-sleeved collared shirt and three-piece suit, while excluding the necktie. While ties are viewed as "highly politicised clothing" in Iran, some Iranian men continue to wear them, as do many Westerners who visit the country.[56]

Other anti-necktie sentiment

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In the early 20th century, the number of office workers began increasing. Many such men and women were required to wear neckties because it was perceived as improving work attitudes, morale, and sales. Removing the necktie as a social and sartorial business requirement (and sometimes forbidding it) is a modern trend often attributed to the rise of popular culture. Although it was common as every-day wear as late as 1966, over the years 1967–69, the necktie fell out of fashion almost everywhere, except where required. There was a resurgence in the 1980s, but ties again fell out of favor in the 1990s, with many high-technology companies having casual dress requirements, including Apple, Amazon, eBay, Genentech, Microsoft, Monsanto and Google.[57] At the furniture company IKEA, neckties are not allowed.[6]

Neckties are viewed by various sub- and counter-culture movements as being a symbol of conformity, submission and slavery (i.e., having a symbolic chain around one's neck) to the corrupt elite of society, as a "wage slave".[58] In Western business culture, a phenomenon known as casual Friday has arisen, in which employees are not required to wear ties on Fridays and then, increasingly, on other announced, special days. Some businesses have extended casual dress days to Thursday, and even Wednesday; others require neckties only on Monday (to start the workweek).

In 1998 Dutch royal consort Prince Claus removed his tie at a public event, calling on the "tie-wearers of all countries" to unite and cast off the oppression of the tie.[59] The incident gained a lot of press attention.[60][61][62][63]

In 2008, the Men's Dress Furnishings Association — a trade group whose members were designers and manufacturers of neckties in the United States — after sixty years existence, shut down as a result of declining membership due to the declining numbers of men wearing neckties.[5]

In 2012, Richard Branson, founder of Virgin Group, believes ties are a symbol of British colonialism to explain his long opposition to wearing ties.[64]

Tie Rack — a retailer devoted to just selling neckties and related accessories — that had 450 stores globally at its height, but falling sales of ties and competition from online shopping meant the firm was forced to close in 2013.[6]

Politics has remained as bastion for formal dress and the necessity for tie-wearing.

In the United States in 2019, US presidential candidate Andrew Yang drew attention when he appeared on televised presidential debates without a tie.[65] Yang dismissed questions about it from the press, saying that voters should be focused on more important issues.[66]

New Zealand Member of Parliament Rawiri Waititi has long been vocal in his opposition to neckties, calling them a "colonial noose". In February 2021, he was ejected from Parliament for refusing to wear a tie,[67] drawing attention and parliamentary debate, which ultimately resulted in the requirement being dropped from N.Z. parliament's appropriate business attire requirements for males.[68]

See also

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References

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Further reading

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
The necktie is a narrow band of decorative fabric worn around the neck under a shirt collar and tied in front, with one end draped over the other to hang down the chest. It traces its origins to knotted neck scarves, or cravats, sported by Croatian mercenaries fighting for France during the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century, which caught the eye of King Louis XIII and spread as a fashion among European nobility. The contemporary form emerged in the early 20th century, refined by American tailor Jesse Langsdorf's 1924 patent for a bias-cut construction that allowed the tie to drape naturally without twisting. Primarily associated with men's formal and business attire, the necktie has symbolized refinement, loyalty, and professional status, though its prevalence has waned with casual dress norms in recent decades. Variations include materials like silk or wool, patterns denoting affiliations such as regimental stripes, and knots like the four-in-hand or Windsor, each influencing the garment's aesthetic and cultural role.

History

Ancient Origins and Early Neckwear

The of Emperor , constructed around 210 BCE during the (221–206 BCE), includes depictions of soldiers adorned with knotted neck cloths, marking one of the earliest archaeological evidences of structured neckwear in . These items, observed on over 8,000 life-sized figures unearthed in 1974 near , appear tied in a manner resembling rudimentary knots and served practical functions such as protecting the throat from environmental elements or denoting among troops and officials. Unlike later ornamental ties, these cloths lacked decorative elaboration, prioritizing utility in a period of widespread warfare and unification campaigns under Qin's centralized rule. In , legionaries employed the focale, a simple woolen or wrapped around the neck, primarily to cushion against chafing from segmented armor like the and to guard the throat against cold, wind, or sun exposure during campaigns. This garment, documented in military inventories and visual records such as (erected c. 113 CE), was standard issue for soldiers from the late Republic through the , with evidence from finds indicating lengths of about 1–1.5 meters for secure wrapping. Its design emphasized durability over aesthetics, reflecting the Roman emphasis on logistical efficiency in legions numbering up to 5,000 men per unit, where unprotected necks risked injury or in diverse climates from Britain to the . These ancient precedents—Chinese neck bands and Roman focales—arose independently from necessities of protection and hierarchy rather than fashion, with no evidentiary chain linking them causally to the modern necktie's form, which developed from distinct 17th-century European military adaptations. Archaeological and textual records underscore their roles as baseline functional accessories, evolving minimally until ornamental shifts in later eras.

17th–19th Century: Cravats and Early Ties

The cravat emerged in the early 17th century from knotted or neckbands worn by Croatian light cavalry mercenaries, known as hrvats or Croats, who fought in the (1618–1648) as auxiliaries in French armies under . These soldiers tied cloths around their necks for practical protection against sword cuts and as a distinctive element, with the French term cravate deriving directly from "Croate." The style gained traction among after the war, evolving from utilitarian military garb into a fashionable accessory symbolizing martial valor and elite status. Following the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660, King Charles II of England introduced the cravat to the English court, drawing from his exile experiences in and the where such neckwear was prevalent. mandated cravats for court attire, often in lace-edged varieties, establishing them as a staple of aristocratic dress by the late 1660s and influencing broader European adoption among the upper classes. In the , cravats diversified into stiffened —pre-tied bands of horsehair, linen, or leather fastened with buckles or tapes, favored by officers for uniformity and rigidity—or more ornate forms like solitaires, ribbons attached to the rear of powdered wigs and tied in front bows, and elaborate multi-layered arrangements requiring up to 12 yards of fabric for display among dandies. These variations reflected social hierarchies, with stocks denoting formal or equestrian contexts and cravats allowing for artistic knotting as a skill showcased in period manuals. By the early 19th century, amid rapid industrialization and the expansion of a professional middle class, neckwear simplified toward the narrower, elongated four-in-hand tie, initially worn by members of London's Four-in-Hand Club, established around 1807 for coaching enthusiasts driving four-horse carriages. Club members tied long, narrow silk scarves in a practical asymmetric knot mimicking the grip on carriage reins, prioritizing ease over ostentation as urban routines and rail travel diminished coaching's exclusivity. This shift marked a transition from bespoke, labor-intensive cravats to mass-producible precursors of the modern tie, aligning with broader democratizing trends in menswear while retaining neckwear's role in signaling respectability.

20th Century Standardization and Popularization

In the , necktie widths began standardizing around 2 to 3.5 inches, transitioning from narrower early-decade styles to broader forms that complemented emerging lapels, with patterns emphasizing geometric and motifs. By the 1930s and 1940s, widths expanded further to approximately 3.5 to 4 inches, aligning with oversized collars and bold, flamboyant designs that reflected economic shifts and cultural influences, including associations with urban sophistication amid the and wartime austerity. During , military uniforms enforced greater uniformity in neckties, typically featuring widths near 4 inches and plain or subtly patterned fabrics tucked into shirts for practicality and orderliness, influencing civilian adoption of structured, restrained styles post-1945. The post-war economic boom of the late 1940s and 1950s spurred demand for luxurious silk ties, often with vibrant prints symbolizing prosperity and leisure, as production ramped up with synthetic alternatives supplementing natural fibers amid rising consumer spending. From the 1950s through the , the necktie solidified as an emblem of professional business attire, with widths stabilizing at about 3.5 inches and designs favoring solid colors or regimental stripes—diagonal patterns originally denoting British regiments but adapted for American corporate, , and club affiliations to signal status and . Studies by consultant John T. Molloy in the demonstrated that men wearing ties, particularly higher-quality ones, garnered more favorable impressions in professional settings, correlating with improved outcomes and perceived authority, though such effects were attributed to signaling reliability rather than inherent causation. Clip-on ties, invented in Iowa in 1928 for safer workplace use, gained traction in the mid-20th century as pre-tied alternatives for convenience in uniform-heavy professions, while variants like bow ties persisted for formal evening wear and ascots for equestrian or semi-formal daytime events, maintaining distinct contextual roles alongside the standard four-in-hand necktie.

Late 20th to Early 21st Century: Peak and Initial Decline

During the , neckties achieved their zenith of cultural and commercial dominance in Western professional attire, particularly in , , and , where they symbolized and . Annual U.S. peaked at approximately 110 million units in the early 1990s, reflecting widespread adoption as standard workplace uniform. Revenue from neckties reached $1.3 billion in , driven by "power ties" in bold patterns and colors that conveyed executive assertiveness amid economic prosperity. In political spheres, figures like U.S. President routinely wore ties, often featuring distinctive designs that aligned with the era's expressive yet formal style. The turn of the millennium marked the onset of decline, as corporate dress codes shifted toward "" policies, reducing mandatory necktie use in offices. This trend accelerated in the early , with U.S. necktie revenue falling to $677.7 million by 2008, less than half the 1995 peak, amid broader casualization. Pioneered by Silicon Valley's high-technology firms from the mid-1990s onward, informal attire like polo shirts and khakis prioritized comfort and over , influencing global corporate norms. By the late , further erosion saw revenue drop to $418 million, as polos supplanted collared shirts and ties in many settings. Despite the downturn, neckties retained prominence in formal , ceremonies, and conservative industries like banking, where they signified . U.S. presidents through the early 2000s, including , adhered to ties in official capacities, underscoring their lingering symbolic role even as everyday workplace prevalence waned. This initial decline reflected not obsolescence but adaptation to cultural preferences for flexibility, with sales stabilizing at reduced levels rather than vanishing entirely. The hastened the adoption of and casual dress codes, diminishing routine necktie wear in many professional environments as companies prioritized comfort over formality. Despite this trend, the global neckwear market exhibited steady expansion, valued at USD 3,743.2 million in 2023 and forecasted to reach USD 4,465.4 million by 2030 with a of 4.4%, driven by demand in formal events and selective business attire. Fashion runways signaled a revival, with neckties appearing in 4% of spring 2024 men's collections and gaining prominence in 2025 shows through unconventional designs linked to post-lockdown "revenge dressing," where individuals sought expressive formality after prolonged casual periods. This countered perceptions of total , as evidenced by increased visibility in weddings, where runway-inspired groom styles incorporated ties for polished . Key 2025 trends emphasized skinny ties, which captured 82% of search interest, alongside fabrics, bold colors, and patterns such as paisley and florals, reflecting a blend of slim silhouettes with vibrant expression. Sustainable variants using recycled fabrics emerged within this shift, aligning with broader growth projected at a 7.2% CAGR through 2030, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers in niche markets. In 2026, neckties returned to fashion as a versatile accessory for bold experiments. Popular colors included blue, burgundy, black, purple, chocolate, and dark green. Trends featured tonal ties matching the suit or outfit, patterns such as paisley, stripes, and geometric designs, and textures like grenadine, silk, and knit. Styles ranged from classic to casual, often paired with leather jackets, sweaters, or jeans. Affordable options for students included knit or linen ties and patterned silk ties suited to smart-casual looks, blending with textured fabrics like knit and grenadine, bold patterns, and a mix of classic and casual styling influenced by prior years. Social media platforms like amplified preppy and secondhand necktie popularity, positioning vintage and thrifted options as accessible style statements amid casual dominance. In sectors like , ties persisted as markers of and competence, resisting full casualization to convey reliability in client-facing roles.

Design and Construction

Materials and Fabrics

, derived from the cocoons of the , predominates as the material for high-quality neckties owing to its inherent sheen, fluid drape, and resistance to wear that preserves aesthetic appeal over repeated use. Mulberry , the most common variant, consists of fine protein fibers that contribute to a smooth surface texture ideal for light reflection and retention. , , and serve as alternatives, with providing insulating texture for colder conditions, offering and absorbency for warmer climates, and enabling cost-effective production through synthetic durability at lower prices. These materials often blend with to balance expense and performance, though pure outperforms synthetics in maintaining shape and luster after laundering or stress. Traditional necktie widths range from 3 to 3.5 inches, optimized for proportional knot formation relative to contemporary lapel sizes and collar widths. However, recent trends have seen a preference for wider ties, often measuring 3.5 to 4 inches, to create a bolder, more substantial appearance. 's molecular structure confers superior knot hold, withstanding longitudinal stress that deforms or equivalents, as evidenced by comparative fiber analyses showing reduced slippage in under tension. High-grade ties endure 5 to 20 years with meticulous care, including prompt untying to avert creasing and, for removing existing wrinkles, steam-based methods such as hanging the tie in a bathroom during a hot shower to utilize natural steam, passing a handheld garment steamer 15-20 cm away without touching the fabric, or using an iron's steam function while holding it suspended over the tie without direct contact; these techniques are preferred for silk and polyester to avoid damage from heat or pressure. avoidance and storage in cool, ventilated spaces to prevent accumulation further enhance longevity. variants, while resistant to wrinkles, degrade faster in sheen and flexibility, often requiring replacement within 2 years under similar conditions. Since the early 2020s, manufacturers have introduced sustainable fabrics such as recycled —each tie repurposing materials from approximately 3.5 plastic bottles—and or blends, which reduce while mimicking 's tactile qualities through advanced . These options prioritize empirical metrics like recyclability and lower carbon footprints over traditional sourcing, though their longevity trails pure in abrasion tests. In recent years, particularly in the 2020s, there has been a growing popularity of textured fabrics in men's neckties, including knit ties and grenadine ties. Knit ties, crafted from knitted silk or wool, offer a distinctive, three-dimensional texture and a more relaxed, casual appearance while maintaining elegance. Grenadine ties, made from silk woven in a special gauze-like open weave, provide a characteristic porous and textured surface that is highly regarded for its vintage appeal and versatility in both formal and casual ensembles. This trend aligns with broader preferences for blending classic and casual styling, reviving vintage-inspired looks in contemporary menswear. Niche materials like impart rigidity and resistance for utilitarian applications, whereas knitted or yields a textured, elastic profile suited to informal settings but prone to snagging and diminished formality compared to woven counterparts. Such variants underscore trade-offs in durability, with excelling in tensile strength yet lacking 's for reversible s.

Manufacturing Techniques

High-end neckties are typically hand-cut and hand-sewn to achieve precise tailoring and superior finish, contrasting with machine-woven methods used in for efficiency and scale. In handmade processes, fabric panels form the —the outer shell—cut individually along patterns, sewn with fine slip-stitching to minimize visible seams, and often incorporating a keeper loop and tipped ends for durability. , conversely, employs automated cutting, weaving, and assembly lines to produce ties rapidly, reducing labor costs but potentially compromising on custom fit and fabric integrity. A hallmark of premium construction is the seven-fold method, where a single square of is folded seven times to create volume and structure without a separate lining, resulting in a fuller and natural heft. This technique relies on meticulous hand-folding and stitching, prioritizing silk's inherent properties for drape over added s. For shape retention in standard ties, —a lightweight fabric core—is inserted between the envelope layers, providing resilience against creasing while allowing controlled flexibility. The bias-cut technique, slicing fabric at a 45-degree to the weave, ensures ties hang with fluidity and minimal twisting under tension, enhancing wearability. Quality controls in production include bar tacking at stress points and pressing to set the final contour, with high-end makers often using minimal mechanization to preserve handcrafted precision. Global supply chains center on for artisanal expertise and for volume , with over 100 million ties produced annually across these hubs. As of 2025, industry forecasts highlight shifts toward ethical labor standards and lower environmental footprints, driven by consumer demand for sustainable practices like reduced waste in small-batch runs and traceable sourcing, amid broader efforts. Modern platforms facilitate custom-printed ties via digital weaving, enabling on-demand production that cuts excess and supports without large-scale runs.

Types and Variations

The four-in-hand necktie, a long strip of fabric typically 56 to 59 inches in length and 3 to 4 inches wide at the broadest point (with recent trends favoring wider ties of 3.5 to 4 inches), constitutes the predominant form for business and formal dress, allowing for manual knotting into various styles. Bow ties, structured as pre-formed loops or self-tied bows measuring about 4.5 inches across when knotted, align with semi-formal contexts like tuxedo ensembles, offering a compact alternative to dangling ties. Ascots, distinguished by their broader, scarf-like construction with wide ends secured by a pin or tie, function in semi-formal daytime settings, such as weddings or races, due to their structured yet less rigid profile compared to standard ties. Skinny ties, defined by widths of 1.5 to 2.5 inches—often under 2 inches in mod-era examples—emerged prominently in the alongside slim silhouettes in youth fashion, exemplified by bands like , and experienced a resurgence in the paired with tapered suits for a streamlined aesthetic. Clip-on ties, featuring a pre-knotted blade attached via a metal clip, and fully pre-tied variants prioritize uniformity and ease, as evidenced in U.S. uniforms where regulations mandate consistent appearance across ranks. Modern cravats, including ties formed from wide or bands pinned at the neck, persist in equestrian disciplines like and for their sweat-absorbent properties and historical ties to field practicality. Repp weave variations impart a diagonal ribbed texture through a specialized construction with alternating thick warp and thin weft yarns, enhancing grip during knotting and durability under repeated use while maintaining a subtle sheen. This weave, originating in ribbed fabrics adapted for ties, supports patterns like stripes that run at an angle, distinguishing it from smoother satins. Contemporary neckties often feature bold patterns such as florals, geometrics, and paisleys, as well as textured fabrics like knit and grenadine, reflecting current preferences in the mid-2020s for expressive and vintage-inspired designs.

Tying Methods

Common Knot Styles

The produces a slender, asymmetrical triangular shape through a simple series of wraps that distribute fabric tension unevenly, resulting in a tapered form suitable for narrow-point collars where minimal bulk is desired. This allows the knot to self-release under pull, minimizing slippage while requiring fewer crossings than bulkier styles, making it adaptable to most tie widths and shirt collars. In contrast, the full achieves a wide, symmetrical triangle via multiple balanced wraps that evenly distribute tension across the fabric layers, creating greater bulk ideal for spread or wide collars that demand proportional fullness. The half-Windsor variant employs fewer wraps for a medium-sized, symmetrical with similar even tension distribution but reduced height, suiting medium-spread collars and lighter fabrics without overwhelming the tie's drape. The , also known as the Shelby, forms a medium, inverted triangular through initial behind-the-neck wrapping that balances tension for a neat and moderate asymmetry, fitting versatile collars from point to semi-spread without excessive length consumption. Knot size and stability in all styles depend on tie construction, with thicker interlinings increasing by resisting compression under tension, while thinner ones yield slimmer results. For bow ties, self-tied versions create a balanced bow through crossed loops that maintain tension via friction and elasticity, preferred for formal wear due to adjustable symmetry, whereas pre-tied bows fix the shape rigidly, often appearing less dynamic under scrutiny. Among professionals, the four-in-hand remains prevalent for its simplicity and everyday suitability across collar types.

Practical Tying Instructions

The four-in-hand knot, valued for its simplicity and asymmetry, begins with draping the necktie around the neck with the wide end hanging approximately 12 inches longer than the narrow end on the right side, ensuring initial balance for a secure wrap. Cross the wide end over the narrow end from right to left, then pass it under the narrow end and up toward the neck. Loop the wide end across the front from left to right, then up through the neck loop from below, and finally down through the newly formed front loop; pull the wide end downward to tighten while sliding the knot upward with the narrow end for symmetry, adjusting the fabric to form a centered dimple at the knot's base. This method achieves reliable results by prioritizing even tension distribution, preventing slippage through successive wraps that interlock the fabric. The full Windsor knot, designed for broader collars and fuller , requires starting with the wide end on the right, extending about 12 inches below the narrow end's tip positioned just above the belly button to account for multiple wraps. Cross the wide end over the narrow from right to left, bring it up through the loop and down to the right; repeat by crossing up to the , over the front left to right, then up under the loop and down rightward. Continue with a horizontal cross right to left over the front, up through the loop underneath, and down through the front center; tighten by holding the narrow end while pulling the wide end, sliding the triangular base upward to align with the collar points for balanced proportions. here stems from the knot's even-sided structure, formed by alternating wraps that create a stable, triangular foundation resistant to unraveling. A standard 58-inch necktie suits men of average height (approximately 5 feet 9 inches), allowing the finished to reach the while accommodating length variations; taller individuals may require 62 inches to maintain proper drape without excess fabric. For troubleshooting, slippery fabrics like demand firmer pulls during tightening to counteract reduced , while mismatched collar spreads—such as a narrow on a wide collar—can cause gaping; select knots proportionally (e.g., fuller Windsor for spread collars) and position the tie high on the neckband before knotting to ensure full coverage.

Cultural and Symbolic Roles

Indicators of Professionalism and Status

Research indicates that formal attire incorporating a necktie correlates with elevated perceptions of competence and potential. In experimental settings, such as mock professional interactions, participants rated individuals in tied business dress higher on traits like trustworthiness and authority compared to those in casual , attributing this to the necktie's association with structured . Similarly, a demonstrated that male interviewers wearing a necktie achieved greater compliance from respondents in survey requests than those without, suggesting the accessory enhances perceived legitimacy and in hierarchical exchanges. Historically, mid-20th-century corporate policies often required neckties for personnel, positing they fostered and elevated employee alongside metrics, though empirical quantification remains limited to qualitative accounts from the . This enforcement underscored the necktie's role in maintaining a disciplined appearance, posited to counteract perceptions of laxity that casual alternatives might evoke, thereby reinforcing hierarchies amid economic expansion. In global contexts, the necktie demarcates status and conformity, particularly in Japanese salaryman culture where it forms part of the standard business uniform, embodying values of order and collective discipline essential to corporate loyalty. Within Western boardrooms, it persists as a subtle emblem of executive authority, signaling readiness for decision-making and distinction from subordinates, even as egalitarian trends toward casual dress challenge its ubiquity. Critiques of the necktie's waning adoption tie this to broader cultural shifts prioritizing informality, which may dilute signals of merit-based hierarchy in favor of perceived accessibility.

Affiliation and Identity Markers

Neckties featuring diagonal stripes, known as regimental ties, originated in the during the late , with distinct color combinations and widths assigned to specific regiments to denote military affiliation and unit loyalty. These patterns extended to contexts by the early , where left-to-right stripes symbolized "heart to sword" in British tradition, allowing wearers to visibly signal membership in military units or associated clubs without verbal disclosure. School and club ties, often striped, emerged from and traditions in the , beginning with College's rowing club adopting a tie from hatband ribbons to mark alumni status and foster intra-university rivalries. By the early 1900s, such "old school ties" became verifiable markers of shared educational heritage, enabling recognition among graduates of elite public schools and universities, which facilitated professional networking through presumed mutual trust. Tartan-patterned neckties signify Scottish clan or regimental heritage, particularly through weaves like Black Watch tartan, adopted by the 42nd Royal Highland Regiment to evoke Highland military identity and regional pride. These patterns, rooted in 18th-19th century regiment uniforms, serve as enduring symbols of ethnic and unit allegiance, distinguishable from generic plaids by registered tartan codes maintained by bodies like the Scottish Tartans Authority. Repp ties, characterized by ribbed diagonal weaves, evolved from British regimental styles into markers of preparatory school and affiliation in the United States by the , with American variants featuring right-to-left stripes to differentiate from European origins. Worn by alumni of institutions like Harvard and Yale, these ties functioned as subtle credentials in elite social and business circles, where pattern familiarity among insiders verified legitimacy and reduced impersonation risks in closed networks. Paisley motifs, while gaining stylistic prominence in menswear for their ornate Kashmiri-derived patterns, occasionally denoted club membership but primarily conveyed personal aesthetic identity rather than institutional verification.

Representation in Art, Media, and Fashion


Neckties appear in artistic reproductions of fine art, such as silk ties featuring Pablo Picasso's post-World War I motifs, including cubist abstractions printed via custom hand processes, as documented in collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. These designs transform paintings into wearable artifacts, merging visual art with accessory form without altering the original compositions' intent. Similar adaptations include ties inspired by Gustav Klimt's The Kiss, replicating its gold accents and patterns on premium silk.
In film and media, neckties serve as visual shorthand for character traits, exemplified by James Bond's precise Windsor knots across decades of adaptations, which convey calculated elegance and operational poise in scenes of preparation or confrontation. The Kingsman series (2014–2021) highlights regimental-striped ties as markers of bespoke tailoring and institutional lore, with knot-tying sequences emphasizing discipline. In The Great Gatsby (2013), Gatsby's silk ties evoke 1920s excess through vibrant patterns, mirroring the era's decorative excess in wardrobe details. Satirical portrayals, like Gordon Gekko's bold ties in Wall Street (1987), underscore 1980s financial bravado via oversized, patterned widths. Fashion media documents neckties' stylistic shifts, with 1980s power ties—wide blades in geometric or prints paired with padded-shoulder suits—symbolizing assertive in editorial spreads and catwalks. By 2025, runway presentations revived ties through innovations like Bottega Veneta's spring collection braided leather variants, blending texture with minimalism for abstracted formality. Chinese silk heritage, disseminated globally since ancient exports around 200 BCE, informs recurring motifs in tie patterns, such as subtle dragon or floral elements adapted into Western luxury weaves.

Contexts of Use

Formal and Ceremonial Occasions

In black-tie events, such as evening galas, diplomatic receptions, and formal weddings, protocol specifies a black bow tie as the standard neckwear, paired with a tuxedo to denote evening formality and distinguish it from daytime attire. Long neckties, by contrast, are prescribed for non-black-tie formal occasions like funerals and daytime ceremonies, where dark suits demand subdued patterns and colors such as solid or black to convey solemnity and restraint. Military ceremonies enforce necktie requirements through uniform regulations; for instance, U.S. Army service dress mandates a black four-in-hand necktie with long-sleeved shirts, except when the Class A coat is worn, to ensure uniformity and discipline in parades, inspections, and official functions. Similar protocols apply in naval and Marine dress uniforms, where black neckties or bow ties are integral to ceremonial presentation. For equestrian events like Royal Ascot, enclosure-specific codes require a standard necktie with in the Queen Anne Enclosure, prohibiting bow ties or cravats to preserve sartorial tradition amid high-society gatherings. Academic ceremonies, including graduations at conservative institutions, traditionally incorporate neckties—often in or stripes—underneath to align with cap-and-gown formality, reflecting historical European influences on ritual attire. These codified practices endure in protocol-driven settings, such as military academies and , where deviations toward casual open-collar alternatives are precluded to uphold empirical standards of decorum established over centuries, as evidenced by unaltered uniform manuals dating to the .

Workplace and Business Settings

In traditional settings through the mid-20th century, neckties enforced a standardized appearance that promoted group cohesion and signaled professional among white-collar employees. This uniformity, rooted in post-World War II corporate , aligned attire with expectations of reliability and focus, reducing visible status distinctions within teams. The of hybrid work models post-2020, accelerated by the , has led to widespread relaxation of necktie requirements, with many firms reporting shifts toward casual policies to accommodate remote and flexible schedules. A 2025 analysis notes that returns often feature and polos over suits, prioritizing adaptability over formality in non-client roles. Yet, client-facing positions retain neckties in sectors like , where surveys indicate formal attire bolsters perceptions of competence and trust, with 70% of hires in such roles emphasizing human-facing . Industry divides persist, with firms maintaining casual codes since the 1990s—often and hoodies—to foster , while upholds ties for client interactions signaling reliability. Some companies, including , have banned neckties to improve comfort and reduce perceived restrictions, correlating with self-reported morale boosts. However, empirical studies link formal attire to enhanced performance via increased abstract thinking and perceived authority, though data conflicts: a 2023 analysis found "dressing best" raised output, contrasting surveys showing 61% of workers more productive under relaxed codes. This tension underscores causal trade-offs between comfort-driven efficiency and attire-induced focus in high-stakes dealings.

Adoption in Womenswear and Gender Dynamics

In the , during the flapper era, women occasionally adopted tie-like neckwear, such as slim scarves or bow ties, as part of a broader rejection of Edwardian corsetry and a shift toward looser, boyish silhouettes that emphasized mobility and social rebellion. This marked an early, sporadic integration of menswear elements into womenswear, though full neckties remained rare and often confined to or artistic circles rather than mainstream adoption. The 1980s saw a more structured incorporation of neckties into women's professional attire, particularly within power suits designed for corporate environments, where they served as functional accents over blouses to enhance tailored lines and project competence. Figures like Princess Diana paired neckties with suits for public appearances, aligning with the era's emphasis on structured shoulders and assertive dressing amid rising female workforce participation, which reached 51.7% of U.S. women aged 16 and over by 1989. Post-2020, empirical sales data indicate a surge in women's necktie purchases, with a reported 31% year-over-year increase attributed to unisex collections from brands like Gucci and The Row, reflecting broader market shifts toward versatile, gender-fluid accessories amid remote work and casual-formal hybrids. This growth aligns with overall neckwear market expansion, valued at USD 3.74 billion globally in 2023 and projected to reach USD 4.47 billion by 2030 at a 4.4% CAGR, though women's segments outpaced traditional menswear due to e-commerce accessibility and influencer-driven styling. By 2025, high-fashion runways amplified this trend, with Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer collection presenting slim, patterned neckties draped over sheer blouses and slouchy tailoring for female models, as later styled by in October 2024 for a polished yet relaxed aesthetic. Such integrations prioritize practical layering for definition and texture contrast, empirically fostering attire versatility that empirically diminishes rigid associations of neckties with male exclusivity in empirical consumer data from luxury retailers.

Criticisms and Health Considerations

Physiological Effects and Risks

A study published in Neuroradiology in 2018 used to assess the impact of tight neckties on cerebral blood flow (CBF) and jugular venous flow in 30 healthy men, finding that a snugly tied necktie reduced CBF by an average of 7.5% compared to untied conditions, with reductions up to 10% in some participants. This constriction, attributed to compression of neck veins and arteries, was statistically significant but reversible upon loosening the tie, and the authors noted no evidence of clinical symptoms like in short-term exposure, though it could theoretically contribute to transient headaches or in susceptible individuals. Long-term risks remain unproven, as the study involved acute measurements without follow-up data on chronic wear. Tight neckties have also been linked to elevated (IOP), a key risk factor for progression. A 2003 randomized study in the British Journal of Ophthalmology measured IOP in 24 normal subjects and 13 patients before and after three minutes of tight necktie wear, observing increases of ≥2 mmHg in some eyes and up to ≥4 mmHg in others, with venous obstruction posited as the mechanism via jugular compression raising episcleral venous pressure. A subsequent 2005 investigation confirmed transient IOP rises primarily in patients after short-term tight tie application, which normalized after removal, suggesting potential exacerbation of condition in those with pre-existing vulnerability but minimal sustained effect in healthy eyes. Optometric experts emphasize that while these acute changes warrant caution for sufferers, population-level evidence of ties directly causing damage is lacking. Regarding potential benefits, empirical ergonomics literature indicates that elements of formal attire, including neckties, may indirectly foster postural awareness by encouraging upright alignment to alleviate collar discomfort, thereby countering forward head posture associated with sedentary work; however, direct peer-reviewed studies isolating neckties' role are absent, with benefits inferred from broader observations of structured clothing promoting spinal neutrality and reducing musculoskeletal strain over prolonged sitting.

Safety and Hygiene Concerns

Neckties present entanglement risks in industrial environments featuring rotating machinery, such as , where loose fabric can catch in , potentially causing or pulling operators into . Historical practices in the early , including documented instances from the , involved machinists wearing ties, which contributed to the establishment of protocols prohibiting such attire by the to prevent accidents. Contemporary risks have lessened due to widespread adoption of synthetic material blends in ties, which offer greater durability and reduced snagging propensity compared to traditional or , alongside modern workplace norms avoiding ties in hazardous areas. In healthcare settings, neckties serve as potential vectors for microbial transmission, with studies isolating from their surfaces. Research has detected methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) and other nosocomial pathogens on physicians' and medical students' neckties, indicating colonization rates that exceed those on bare skin. These findings prompted policy responses, including a 2007 directive from Britain's Department of Health advising against ties to curb contamination, and a 2011 New York legislative proposal to ban them in hospitals alongside other non-essential attire. Tight collars associated with neckties can exacerbate skin irritation, such as razor burn on the neck, through friction against recently shaved areas, though selecting properly fitted shirts minimizes this issue. Severe incidents linked to neckties remain uncommon, with no large-scale data indicating frequent hospitalizations or fatalities from such causes in modern contexts.

Ideological and Cultural Opposition

During the countercultural revolution in the United States and , neckties became targets of ideological rejection as emblems of , , and bourgeois propriety, with hippies and anti-war activists favoring informal, expressive to symbolize liberation from rigid social hierarchies. This opposition framed formal neckwear as a tool of oppressive authority, contributing to a broader cultural shift toward casual attire that persisted into subsequent decades, eroding traditional markers of despite linking structured to enhanced cognitive processing and self-perceived authority. In contemporary egalitarian movements, particularly within tech and political spheres, leaders have increasingly abandoned neckties to cultivate an image of accessibility and anti-elitism, as seen in executives prioritizing hoodies over to signal relatability and reject perceived class barriers. This trend aligns with broader anti-formality pushes that equate neckties with outdated power structures, yet empirical studies indicate formal attire bolsters perceptions of competence and ethicality, suggesting such casual may undermine professional discipline where data favors attire-induced structure for sustained focus and productivity. The rise of in the , often promoted under unsubstantiated claims of boosted and output, exemplifies this , contrasting with findings that casual styles correlate with diminished trustworthiness and abstract reasoning compared to formal equivalents. In certain non-Western contexts, neckties face ideological framing as colonial impositions or "Western nooses," fueling resistance tied to post-colonial identity assertions, though their empirical in high-trust professional environments—such as Japanese corporate or global —demonstrates persistence where formality reinforces reliability and hierarchical clarity over egalitarian informality. This opposition critiques neckties as enforcing artificial uniformity, but causal evidence from attire counters that by showing formal fosters greater category inclusiveness and action-oriented mindset, potentially stabilizing social structures against undisciplined casual norms.

References

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